cog

I like the wear and tear of the threshold, it suits the build. However, we should have a word about those orange clamps ...

good luck in finding the wand ... although, I don't know if you really need it

very well done nenad

I know, Steven, but most use metric nowadays ... at least so it seems ... feeling not so imperial anymore?
 
I knew it! Hence my question for metric Jo.
 
Carl

Allow me. 👇
https://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm

With regards to druxey's remark, how did you mask those funnels, for those look excellent.

what's a uro more or less ... 

I know, Steven, but most use metric nowadays ... at least so it seems ... feeling not so imperial anymore?
 
I knew it! Hence my question for metric Jo.
 
Carl

Sorry Alan, you do not need to use the edit mode
this should be below each of your own posts:
 

 

Well, I'm not Irish so I don't but I'll raise my Scotch to your health (and no more back problems)
 
It should be rather easy to delete a post. Go into it through Edit and slect "Post Actions", and "Delete Contents"

I would tend to think that there would be a method of storage for oars (lengthwise) and probably between the rower's seats.   My reasoning is that under wind power using the sail, there would be a lot of drag from the sails.  Or maybe they just tied them up on the outboard side so they weren't dragging?

Fair dinkum mate, you can't do better on those masts

Sam, do you have any metric references ...

Sam, do you have any metric references ...

Sam, do you have any metric references ...

No problem. I have this 🤣 

 

Part 87 –Shrouds
 
My planned rigging sequence called for working on the jib next.  However, since the Jib Stay needs to lay on top of the shrouds at the mast hounds, it quickly became obvious that the shrouds needed to be fully installed before this could reasonably be done.  So, installation of the shrouds became the next step.
 
Kathryn’s shrouds are connected to two chainplates on each side. 
 
                        
 
These chainplates are connected to large turnbuckles via shackles, and then shackles are used to attaché the shrouds to the turnbuckles.
 
                        
 
All of this hardware was prepared in Part 75 (last July!!).  Now it needed to be assembled and installed on the model.
 
The shrouds had been loosely installed in Part 85 but it was very obvious that the port shroud was too loose and should be re-installed.
 
                        
 
Since the shrouds are made of wire they could not easily be removed and re-used once the crimping beads were in place.  This meant that the shroud needed to be cut loose and another shroud made in its place.  Because there were a lot of questions in my mind about the best way to proceed, I decided to install all of the chainplates/turnbuckle hardware, and to then focus on installing the shrouds on the starboard side.
 
Assembling the hardware began with attaching the lower shackle to the turnbuckle, and then pinning the shackle to the chainplate. The chainplate was held fast in a small vise, and then a piece of .014” piano wire was used as the pin.
 
                        
 
Piano wire was the choice for the pin because of the amount of stress that would be put on that joint during the installation of the shroud.
 
A small drop of CA glue was placed on the piano wire outside of the shackle on each side of the shackle before trimming the ends of the pin.  This would keep the small pin in place.  The glue was applied with a small needle held in a pin vise.
 
                        
 
The following photo shows an assembled chainplate/turnbuckle assembly, along with the six individual pieces of the assembly.
 
                        
 
Once the four assemblies had been completed, it was time to mount the chainplates to the hull.
 
                        
 
The chainplates needed to be pinned to the hull to accommodate the stress of installing the wire shrouds.  Small pins measuring .020” thick and .5 long were used as the mounting bolts.  These were trimmed to a shorter length and then the cut end was smoothed with a small diamond file.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The long pin in the first of these photos is a full-sized pin that had not yet been cut down.  The pliers used to hold the pins while filing are specifically made for holding, pushing, and pulling small nails.  This allowed me to move the pin back and forth on the file, rather than trying to file such a small area.
 
The bolt holes in the chainplates had already been pre-drilled using a #74 drill.  The chainplate was held in the appropriate position, and a pilot hole was made on the hull using the small pin shown above.  The holes were drilled in the hull, and then the bolts, after dipping in medium viscosity CA, were used to mount the chainplate assemblies to the hull.
 
                        
 
To install a shroud, an alligator clip was used to push a crimping bead down on the shroud to the final position.  The alligator clip then held the crimping bead in place while it was crimped using a crimping tool.
 
This is where the problems started.  After installing the two starboard shrouds it was obvious that the aft shroud was too loose.  
 
                        
 
These wire shrouds can’t be installed by simply pulling them taut as could be done with rope.  A different method needed to be developed to get them tight.
 
After a lot of trial and error (and several shrouds being thrown away) I found a couple of key steps were needed:
 
First, the shrouds needed to be clamped to the mast at or below the hounds.  The wire used for the shrouds tends to spring away from the mast, and should be held in place against the mast while installing the shrouds. After installation the spring-back would serve to tighten the shroud.
 
Also, the shroud would loosen while trying to crimp it around the shackle at the turnbuckle.  To avoid this loosening, I measured the shroud length against the shackle, and made a sharp bend in the shroud at the point where I wanted it to turn.  
 
Until I worked out these points I was seriously considering simulating the steel cable by dying some rope to a light grey color and then using gloss medium to give it a sheen.  I apologize for not taking any photos while installing the shrouds – I guess I was too intent on the installation.
 
The following photos show the completed shrouds.
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
I think I can now get back to working on the jib – hopefully that will be the subject of the next post.
 

Good evening gentlemen and ... thank you for your encouragement!

Finally, after a few tests, I tried the adventure and ... I won !!!!

I was satisfied with a simple little "first price" blowtorch, some paste and a little refractory stone, and here is the result :







  




The base is not fixed yet ... I'll see for the windows and the candle before. I even managed to close the ring by brazing it.

I think I understood how to braze, finally I made myself a "mountain" when in the end it is not very complicated. Even during my tests I did not manage to melt my pieces (others of course : I did not want to start all over again ! )

To be continued ...

Good evening to you !

Patrick


 

You'd better keep your wits about you when you use your mat/mate ... oh which ever ...  I'll leave you to your build. Oh, one advice: Measure twice before you cut to length ...

Sam, does her better half have anything to say ...?
 
Jo,
Now how come I haven't thought about it meself! I can even take it with me to work   Excuse my ignorance, but what is a car bog ... if it's heavy you better don't send it, US Postal charges are rather steep, and I won't pay for the import duties and taxes, you could wire the money though ... 
 
Sam did make a good proposition considering the plans, yes he does from time to time (  ). You do not need to pin/stick them to the wall all four, just the one you need for what you are working on would suffice. Usually you've got two with side/front/rear, and top view, one for the rigging, and one for the sails. In my older kits I had only two, one for the hull, rigging, and sails, besides one to cut the sails, a template you could say

I thought you were upto something ... to silent for to long ... very nice radar mate

Well, the czech language suffers a little with google translate and please ignore the software piracy bit............
 
But, we can all create brilliant models, and I fully agree with Doris that gender is irrelevant  when it comes to pretty much everything.
FYI, I'm stealing your awesome stand idea for my next build. Thank you. 😊
 
Keep up the great job.

Hello my friends.
 
I have dry fitted (I think that is what you call it) the frames all but the last one, that one I will leave till I have put the wooden strips on.
 
Sorry that frame 10 is a bit leaning over ☹️ not a lot for it to hang onto.
 
Jo.
 

Then you would be .......                                                                                                                     in trouble
 
If you haven't read up on your planking. It might be a good idea not to tally any longer ... if you do not know the knowledge db then that is a good place to start. The link will take you straight to the docs for framing and planking. It's nice to be prepared ... Until you've reached the point of no return, you can always change your mind about the colour ... usually you are far beyond it when you find out what colour you want - just pullin' yer leg

Thank you everyone for the nice comments.
(Carl, I'm not a fan of football. I also like peace and quiet).

I have added some bolts in the upper wales. 

Bolts that remain visible on the inside are also fitted. So that it looks that these bolts run through the frame and the wale.

 
And i have become the proud owner of some interesting books. First I will read and study before I continue to build