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    Te Ika a Maui, Aotearoa

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  1. Avoid using a rasp if you have a Dremel. Use it like power sandpaper.πŸ˜‚ It is much kinder to creating the shape that you want to achieve. Think of fairing the hull to the art of shipbuilding. Your wanting to create a shape with the framing that allows the hull planking to conform to the ideal shape that is required with the perfect recreation of the ship you are building. There are lots of tutorials on the this site that will help you to achieve this. Just as 'Rome wasn't built in a day', the same applies to model ship building (or any modelling), take your time, measure twice etc..... Your building an awesome kit, keep up the great work. 😊
  2. Congratulations, and best wishes for you both πŸ˜† Your build is looking awesome and I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I've been eyeing up this kit myself and looking at your work is great encouragement, ( Just continuing to postpone my Bounty build till I get my skill level up. 😊 )
  3. I've found Firefox to be ok when it's working, but a buggy mess when it trips over itself. And that happens too frequently for me. Try working through these steps and hopefully one of them will fix it. I find chrome is fine, but my system has no issues with it being a bit resource hungry. Opera is another option that you may find works for you. And Microsoft have finally accepted that they cannot build a browser and are swapping out EdgeHTML for Chromium's Blink engine. Be nice for them to finally stop creating their own HTML rules, (He says remembering the joy of IE6 coded pages)......
  4. Bunnings is your friend again, I use these for almost everything as they are much easier to screw in and out.
  5. Allow me. πŸ‘‡ https://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm
  6. Well, the czech language suffers a little with google translate and please ignore the software piracy bit............ But, we can all create brilliant models, and I fully agree with Doris that gender is irrelevant when it comes to pretty much everything. FYI, I'm stealing your awesome stand idea for my next build. Thank you. 😊 Keep up the great job.
  7. Red is a very fast fading colour, this image of the painted model seems to be fairly accurate. But, many years of plastic modelling speaking, weathering and wear really add to a painted model. Then again, there is the widespread opinion here that going for an unpainted wood only build is the way to go. My personal opinion is that going for authenticity is the way to go, paint what was painted, with weathering if you want a used look, leave the rest as it was as used originally. I'm just pleased that my current Billings Roar Ege build can be weathered to eternity and beyond........
  8. As I take it your Australian (Kiwi here) these are some cheap alternatives to expensive tools I use. Bunnings have a great range of cheap (NZ$1.20+) Fuller clamps in a range of sizes, I've found these to be invaluable. Also a set of small files can be more useful than sandpaper for some jobs, plus you get a range of shapes for fiddly jobs. Cheap $2.00 nail file packs can also be handy. A range of sandpaper grades, cut and glued onto small pieces of wood make great sanding blocks, cut the wood offcuts to whatever size and shape you need and you'll find that makes life easier too. 😊 Have fun.
  9. You may well have already found this thread on The Ship Model Forum, if not it provides a wealth of information and links that may help you. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=23494 And Trumpeter are a highly regarded company in the plastic modelling world so I personally doubt that they 'stole' this kit from Revell and upscaled it. There is a large amount of reboxing and rebranding with plastic model kits, Revell as an example do a large amount of it so it's likely that the plans were sold to Trumpeter and there was the traditional SNAFU in certain areas of the kit. A situation not unknown with wooden kits I'm learning. 😊 I really wonder if some companies actually build any of their kits from a quality control standpoint before releasing them. Sometimes, it seems as if they didn't. Or didn't pay any attention to the builder who said.. " Umm, about this bit ??? "
  10. And that's the reason I'm not doing a build log of my first build. It puts a lot of pressure on you to post 'regularly' and so far I've taken 5 months to build half the hull of Roar Ege. Seriously, who wants to read about that. For those of us first timers this is usually a labour of love, but also one which can take a long time due to 'stuff' causing a slow down of progress. I really admire those who have the time to put in regular hours but for many people work, family, not being able to have a dedicated workshop, all slow the building progress and the build log tends to be the first to go. Just my two cents worth but as Ryzuhr and I are both building similar models I fully understand the delays, and I have far fewer excuses for not showing greater progress. 😊
  11. The following link may be of some help too. http://www.shipmodell.com/index_files/SHIPMODELL_DERFFLINGER.htm Google translate may be needed. πŸ˜‰ Perhaps someone should do a sticky on internet searching but this may be helpful, if your wanting information on a specific topic, ie Derfflinger, a structured keyword search on google gives you the needed information within 10 min, with checking a few links. I'm a day or two late here but this search; dikar derfflinger model ship plans pdf gives a great result. You'll find that the internet is your best friend with uncovering almost all information you need on any topic. FYI: I'm in my 50's so this is not a 'young person's thing', 😊, just a bit of practice and you'll discover just what a powerful tool this is for researching information.
  12. I just came across this on Youtube, it's the Hercules which is a year later than the Samson but I thought it may be some use if you haven't already seen it. πŸ˜ƒ
  13. As they are LED's and don't get hot why not dull them down with something like Tamiya acrylic paint. I'd suggest experimenting with ones not on the model yet first πŸ˜ƒ to test the theory but that should dull them nicely and let you adjust the colour. EDIT: Here you go, from a model train forum. πŸ˜‰ http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/179811.aspx
  14. After many years of plastic I'm currently building a Billings Roar Ege, very slowly :). And my next, or next,next is an Artesania Latina full interior Bounty. Frankly, after looking at the builds here of this model I'm looking at upskilling my wood skills a lot before even attempting this kit in my stash. But I'm finding that wood is, in many ways, a far more enjoyable medium to work on than plastic.
  15. I've been watching your build with interest, Thought about this kit myself. As a fellow Kiwi I've found the Jaycar cattledog to be of great use, mainly because in Wangas we only get a very small amount of what Jaycar have available instore. This may be useless info but page 104 of this may help you if you have more issues.

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