cog

Forgot some photos
 

Some updates: I have been working mostly on installing all the deck structures, guns, railings, gun port covers. I didn’t install the block and tackle rigging on the guns; too frustrating,  so I settled for just the recoil ropes. 
 
Some photos follow:
 

After completing the deck, I started installing the gun port covers. Had to come up with some jigs to hold the covers in place till the glue set.
 
jigs

 
Final results
 

The last port at stern and bow require a split cover with sling which I have to figure out how to rig. Then I have to turn it around and repeat on the port side.
 

Small update :
 
Finally got the main deck populated with the furniture I had to assembler
 

Hi All,
Update:
 
HOF has been busy, no too much to show for my efforts over the past few days but progress none the less....
Forward Gunnery Control Centre sheathed Aft Signal Station constructed, 58 PE parts to this, very fiddly and looks like something from "Tron." ( It took quite some time to construct, don't ask me how long, but too long. There were two tiny bits of Railing for the "Wings" of this structure that I just could not fit. No one will know and I decided not to after some other bits of Riling started to give way.... 😗  Allot of this will be concealed under other pieces of Superstructure. There's a bit of PE cleanup still to do.)
Aft Searchlight platform completed (I get the feeling that the Searchlight Platform will require a millimeter or so packing in its location on the Superstructure.)
 
So, more PE challenges yet to come I am sure.... 🙂
 
Onward and upward....
 
Cheers.... HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 
 
 

Hi All,
Update:
 
So, been pretty much "Under the pump" today fixing Aft PE Superstructure sides that I had been preparing for a the past few days. (Attaching doors, vents, windshields, etc, etc.)
 
Adjusted some of the PE cladding for the 1st tier, wasn't happy at all but much improved now. Easy to prize off due to the epoxy that I used. I don't think I'll be using this again.... 😗 and CA to re-attach.
 
What I should have been doing is cleaning up filler and cleaning up PE on this level, never mind, tomorrows another day and it's not going anywhere....
 
Started cladding with the 3rd tier, one piece that wrapped around the entire wooden substructure, nice!! No real issues here.
Sized the 3rd tier Decking and commenced sheathing for the 2nd tier.
 
Got this pretty much complete apart from other bits "That will be added later....😗"
It's not perfect, some of the PE cladding joins have small gaps, 0.5mm or so that will require a judicious amount of "Squadron" Putty.
 
Two or three details cane loose from the cladding, I found them all and re-attached, lucky.... 🙂
One issue was the Hangar fell off, another victim of the 90 second epoxy, no damage thankfully. CA seems to be the way forward now, i thought I'd give the 90 second epoxy a go, don't experiment "On Ship" something that I forgot about....😗
 
The only downside is that with all the Rails around, I have to be very careful handling stuff,,,,
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 
 
 
The photos, attached, show some Deck detail, this is not affixed as yet.
 

This will be a bit of a quick update. Lots of small parts were added slowly, namely the ten seat and thwart frames. I also added and shaped the bow quarter knees. 
 

 
I’m not as happy with the bow knees as I was the stern. They’re not as perfectly even as I had hoped they would be. They’re close and from any kind of distance at all it’s difficult to tell. 
 
you can also see a slight modification I made to the first and second bottom frames. As other logs had mentioned that the two included mast step pieces both have holes in them and that a common solution was to cut some scrap wood to provide a solid bottom, I plan to do just that. I carved an inset into those two frames to receive that third layer. 
 
Next came the step I was most nervous of in the early part of this build, sanding and shaping the two transoms. 
 

 
They turned out pretty handsome if I do say so myself. Cutting the notch in the stern was going to have to wait until I could buy a file (more on that in a moment) so I moved forward a few steps and added the rudder gudgeon pad because it seemed easy to do. 
 

 
The next day, impatient of waiting for an opportunity to buy a file, I improvised. I took some coarse sandpaper and tightly wrapped it around the shaft of a screwdriver. 
 

 
Who says you need the proper tools for these things? Well, to be fair I think it would have been best to use the correct tool and I’m adding a file set to the list of things I still need to get. 
 
Something I have not noticed in other logs is the inclusion of the floor board cleats. There are six of them but it took me a bit to realize the two smaller, inner ones existed. 
 

 
I made a few assumptions with these which in retrospect I ought to have thought longer about. I assumed they would sit with the 1/8 dimension flat and the 3/32 dimension making the height. I’m not convinced that was correct due to the second assumption. I assumed the curve that the instructions describe referred to the curve on the bottom and didn’t account for any curve along the sides. 
 

 
Again, it’s difficult to see and I have no intention of changing things but the floor board cleats don’t match the angle of the bottom planks lengthwise. Only in the sense that they’re curved to the bottom of the boat. 
 
In the grand scheme these minor quibbles (bow quarter knees and floor board cleats) are not going to have a meaningful impact on the state of the finished model. Just something I’ve learned to pay more attention to and a way to include more fine detail. 

Finding time through the work week is always a challenge. As such, I’ve only managed to get a few things done. 
 
I started by getting the bow nice and square and gluing that down. The technique I found worked best for me was to glue the very tips of the two bottom boards together first, then glue the combined piece to the bow transom and let that set. Doing it this way meant I didn’t have to worry about them splaying unevenly as I fiddled with gluing them down. 
 

 
This left me free to square up the two bottom boards against the appropriate stops on the molds and then glue them (one at a time) to the stern transom. The stern doesn’t look square in the above because it is not, that got fixed when I glued as described. 
 
Next came bending and then gluing the keel board. 
 

 
The process was exactly the same as what I had done for the dory so it was a comfortable process. The only helpful thing I added was tracing along its edges with a pencil when I dry fit it to make sure it was as exactly centered as possible. 
 
Finally, I sanded the bevels into the garboard planks and tried my hand at cutting the rabbets. 
 


 
The instructions say to cut the rabbet a scale foot long and a scale inch wide. At 1:12 a scale inch is ~2mm so that’s the pencil line you see drawn. I went back and forth with myself, wondering it that was too wide and would impact the final height of the sides of the boat because of too much overlap. Ultimately I ended up only cutting them ~1mm wide but may come back and widen them before I soak/bend them after a chance to dry fit in the daylight. 

Following some encouragement in the new member introduction post Decided it was time to start a build log here. I already completed the Lowell Grand Banks Dory which I’m quite proud of. 
 


 
The Pram will be my second model, and in fact only the second model I’ve ever attempted of any kind. 
 
Let’s get into it. 
 
Day 1 was a simple matter of beveling the bow and stern transoms as described in the instructions. Just like the dory, I’m impressed with the detail provided and find it very useful. I also attached the knees and drilled a hole as directed through the bow transom knee. There was a little bit of tearing out, but I pieced the splinters back in place and glued them back down. 
 


 
Day 2 involved assembling the build board. I took the helpful advice of Ryland Craze given in the build log by Zack Soderquist and added some scrap to the board so that the transoms would sit flush. All added pieces are 3/64 thick. 
 

 
You can see that I also had to add some tape to make the stern transom support fit snugly, without the need for glue. Disaster struck after this picture was taken and I broke the thinnest part of the stern transom support, something I saw commonly happen in other logs and which I was trying to avoid. A little gluing back together and it works fine. 
 
Day 3 saw sanding and bending of the bottom boards. I treated them exactly like the Dory, soaking and bending over the frames with elastics. 
 

 
Those are now set to dry overnight. 
 
That brings me pretty much up to present. I decided to bend the keel board after the bottom boards because it’s going to lay on top of them anyway, counter to what the instructions say. I also can already tell I’m going to have a gap between the stern transom and the keel board so I’ll try to sand the notches a little deeper before gluing the bottom boards in place. I may also consider adding a little spacer between the bow transom knee and the keep board to fill up the gap that’s going to be present there. 

When we come to see grandma and grandpa, Lia enjoys spending time with grandpa in the shop and learning how to build a model. This time, she was able to learn techniques in painting! 

Very nice and promising work. This is going to be a masterpiece !
 
If I may suggest a few things: 
Make sure that you install at least 4 white/yellowish LEDs per compartment. This is required to bring enough light to see all the details of the assembly. The front module is very long and a ceiling light near the torpedo access hatch is a must. You placed a light on the bulkhead, which is a very good thing. Be careful with the wiring. Your modules may not fit into the hull if you have too many wires or too thick of a harness.  Since you are using the Eduard PE set, you do not have to cut the deck, which make it easier for you to hide the wiring. Otherwise, it will be visible from the outside. Finally, make sure that the light does not leak outside of the module, especially from the top. Again, not so much of a problem since you are going with Eduard PE set. Yves

Hi Chap,
Very nice application of detail and very tidy wiring.
 
Cheers....HOF.

Very nice start....
 
Yves

You've got downundah photographs and upyonder ones? Keep on flipping me flippingtop 😵‍💫

Thought I’d add a ships launch 

You've got downundah photographs and upyonder ones? Keep on flipping me flippingtop 😵‍💫

You've got downundah photographs and upyonder ones? Keep on flipping me flippingtop 😵‍💫

You've got downundah photographs and upyonder ones? Keep on flipping me flippingtop 😵‍💫

You've got downundah photographs and upyonder ones? Keep on flipping me flippingtop 😵‍💫

Part 3, that’s the deck details done, gangways next 

 




 

Great diorama Greg; very realistic.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You outdid yourself again mate. Must be frustrating being so good 😉

You outdid yourself again mate. Must be frustrating being so good 😉

I think you'll manage with the live example, and xken's tutorial. On the other hand it is odd a 17cm prop is unobtainable ... I'll have a look with the RC boys here in the Netherlands, maybe I can find you something

You outdid yourself again mate. Must be frustrating being so good 😉

You outdid yourself again mate. Must be frustrating being so good 😉