wangshuoliurui

It's good to see you back, Sam, even if just for a bit.  Work is hell.. 
 
Ken, I think the Microscale needs a topic of it's own out there.  I did some Googling and this might be perfect for many of us.
 
 
These pictures are some of "test" shots to sort things out.
 
The stern now has it's upper molding and the rest planked in ebony.  It still needs more sanding  
 
The main stern carving is a "bad" carving blank which is hitting the scrap box as it's served it's purpose.  I stuck it on with some double sided tape for position and appearance.  I noted that it's too low and needs to be higher to look right.  The real carving is on the workbench and slowly being attacked with various implements of construction and destruction.    I think it's a perspective issue when I stuck it on.  The transom being angled, it looks low when viewed head on.  
 
The taffrail... this one's a headache.  I've changed the drawing to reflect where this one doesn't quite fit and also to lengthen the "legs".  I originally designed it as a one piece but the legs are entirely cross-grain which weakens things (I think I've broken about 5 at this point while cleaning off the char). The other is an appearance  that I'm not happy with.  The cross-grain on the legs just looks dirty no matter how much it's sanded/scraped.  I even cut one in half and the cut area looks "dirty".   Anyway, I've reworked it so it's made of three pieces.. a crosspiece and two legs with the grain going in the proper direction.  I hope to cut another later today or tomorrow.
 
I'm noticing that things are quite perfect still in the dimension area but not much I can do at point, but I'll sort it out and tweak as best I can.  I'm about 1/32" (2") off on the level, left-to-right where the transom meets the counter.  And it's off about the same on witdth.  One side is just a bit wider at the top.   I'm thinking that the beams shifted slightly when I was reconstructing this area.  Nothing serious but I thought I'd point it out.
 
I do need to flip this beast over and plank the inside of the transom area above the deck beam so I can sand it down and shape before fitting the taffrail.  
 
I'm thinking, right now, the taffrail will be un-adorned.  I tried carving some acanthus leaves for this area, but... I need a lot more practice for some thing that tiny. I keep at it as there's no rush on the carvings.
 

 
Comments and critiques are always welcomed and yes, this is to be continued.

It was a first time for me also David.  I've always used acetate and it just never looks "right".

Hi Mark,
 
Don't you find that working upside down all the blood rushes to your head
 
I love what your doing here mate and thanks for the step by step, the clear glazing is really quite authentic in it's shape, they look really good.
 
Working through the failures isn't it satisfying when it all comes together and you achieve those results. Well done mate.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Jose,  thanks for the comments.
 
I used Coreldraw to create a drawing and cut the windows out using the laser cutter.   They're 1/32" thick (roughly 0.5mm) and the munnions and outside framing are the same.  
 
In the photo, the frames are on top and you can see the size by comparing them to the dime in the picture.

 
To glaze them, I used MicroMark's Micro-Glaze.  It's a white liquid that when dry is is clear and thin.   Because the wood is so thin, I had to change the way I did it from the instructions because the frames warped badly.
 
I put the window frame on a piece of polyethylene bag (the stuff sticks to everything else including glass) and filled the openings with the glazing.  I put another piece of bag on top and then a piece of thick, heavy plate glass on top.  I let it sit for 24 hours and remove the top glass and bag.  At this point, the glaze was "set" but not dry and still white.  I left off the bag and glass until it was almost clear.  At this point the wood would start to warp again and I'd put the glass back on for another 12 hours or so.  
 
I hope that helps.

A minor update, model wise.  A biggie for me.      The stern is more or less complete.  It still needs the carvings and the taffrail needs the finials but those are in-work and may be that way for some time as I move on to other things.   I carve while waiting for glue to dry, etc.
 
I was playing with the camera and some settings... here's the inboard side of the stern unplanked and then planked in silver maple.  I'm using the maple where things would have been white-washed.  The planked version also shows part of the taffrail installed.
 

 
From the outboard side with part taffrail installed.
 

 
This is the two other pieces of the taffrail on the scroll saw using the ScrollSander to clean off the laser char and finesse the fit.  The final finessing was using a file and sanding sticks.
 

 
And with the full taffrail installed.  It needs a bit of cleanup and some wipe-on poly, but I'll that when get the carvings ready.  The quarter galleries need to be built also before finishing.  It's a  bit off (about 1mm on the port side) but I'll live with it.  
 

 
All in all, I'm pretty chuffed about this as it was a big learning curve.  I wanted the joinery perfect.. not quite there yet but to my eye, it looks good.  Next up is the rudder while I sort out the quarter galleries.  These have a bit of unusual shape in that they curve out past the stern and then back to the hull, like a half circle only not...  Hard to explain but I'm researching and sorting it out.
 
 

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
 
That's what I had on the plans for cutting the rudder...  HIndsight...it's wrong.  Also, I used the wrong size pintle and cudgeon material. I'm adding this to my "lessons learned".    I take another look and see if I can fix it although without destroying the stern planking, I'm not sure.

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and the ideas.
 
Carl, I think you might be onto something. I never thought about coming in from the top.  I'll take another look this week and see.  
 
Pat, I seem to recall that build also... too many years ago,.. <sigh>  Oh yes, I'm logging the lessons.
 
 
Here's the rudder in it's not quite or maybe it is, final form.  (Rudder coat notwithstanding).  I've added the strop and the chains.   Now that's back in it's jig, I'm going to attend to several things...  the rudder coat install from the top, the carvings <takes a deep breath>, the quarter galleries, and a bit if finishing up the sanding on the inside of the hull.
 
And the pictures.  I'm pretty happy with it even with some issues that the macro brings up..  
 

 

 

Thanks for the comments and the "likes"...
 
Here's the rudder ready to hang.   Once the cudgeons are on the hull, I'll add the rudder coat and mount it.  I'll probably pin it to the sternpost from the inside of the hull just to keep it in place as I'll be flipping the hull over a few more times before cutting it loose and mounting it to a cradle.
 
I made a judgement call after testing on some scrap about the bolts.  Not going to happen.  If the bolts are visible, they're oversize by an order of magnitude.  If' they're just the right size, they're invisible.  
 
I also did some testing to compare Jax Black to Birchwood Casey Black.  Not much difference except maybe the Birchwood Casey is a bit blacker and also seems to cover silver solder better.
 
Been a busy of testing this stuff.  
 
Ok.. pictures.....
 
First piccy shows the old and the new together.  I'm happier with the new and the old is hitting the scrap box.   The second pic has a dummy sternpost next to it.  I've got a big smile on that one.  
 

 

The new rudder looks exceptionally good.  re the bolts, Remco demonstrated a few months ago how he simulated bolts from brass rod by using the bur as the head after roll-cutting the rod.  I used very thin brass plated sewing pins that I filed down a little.  However, they wont be missed by omitting them.  
 
Yup, I feel the same way on the redo's, have no qualm in doing it.
 
Cheers,

Small update in the overall scheme of things.
 
The new rudder is ready for the metal work and some additional holes.  For example the two tiller holes are drilled but need squaring up with some file work and a couple of small holes for the eyebolts/ringbolts need drilling   All things considered and compared to the elder brother rudder, I'm happy with this.  There is one minor defect that will be hidden by the rudder coat.  And no, i"m not going to forget this bit.....
 
The opening for the pintles is shaped now like the French ones and not like the English properly. I also used boxwood from three different sheets/scraps in order to have some variation between the three slabs of wood.
 
Edit:  Actually... I'm wrong.  Both the English and the French did that same way.  The square openings are the way many kits do them.   I have much to unlearn... as well as learn.
 
For the metal work, I'm going with smaller diameter pintles and cudgoens than on the first version. the irons (straps), I'll make from the same material as before.   Also, I'm considering right now eliminating the bolts holding the irons to the rudder and hull because even though the I'm using are the tiniest I can find, as this scale they are still too large.  i believe if my measurements and eyes are to be believed they work out to having the heads 3" in diameter and standing proud at out 1.5".
 
I'll be using epoxy for securing the metal to the wood, although I need to test first and make sure that it will hold.
 
 
 
 

Update....
 
Rudder temporarily installed (the blue tape keeps it from falling off).  I'll hit the hull with some Wipe-on-Poly and start working on the rudder coat.  
 

Hello:
 
  Had to start over with the quarter galleys put my finger through the light right off the get go. So I came up with a different way that worked for me.
 
Starter by making a jig that fit where the galley fit. Then glued stops top and bottom to hold the same beams 3mm above the jig, glued the print on in place then put a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the print so the glued parts wouldn't stick.  Rubber cemented the galley beams to the jig and assembled the rest.  The jig held the part so well it could be sanded shaped, a little clean up in the window sections and only had a little final fitting to the hull.  Hopefully I can move on now been hear too long.
 
TJ

A brife introduction and some thoughts…
 
While trying to put together all the info and starting the new log here I searched for the CD of the MNM yesterday and the date wrote on it was January 2012. Therefore I started this project more or less around those days.
 
MNM is the acronym for Naval Museum of Madrid. They used to be able to sell you plans and prints for one euro plus two euros for the CD but they do not do it anymore. Something that I don´t understand at all. It is totally a shame because we have an enormous Public Record Office with thousands of files and prints already scanned that should be able to be consulted by all and specially the enthusiast modelers around the World and here in Spain. It should be like the National Naval Museum in UK for example. It was once but not anymore.
 
The shipwright was Julian Martin De Retamosa (1747 -1827) one of the latest shipwrights or the Real Armada and known for building the best ships of the Real Navy in this last period. Spain had lost years ago the supremacy of the seas and was no able to build ships of the line at the rate of other navies do like French or specially the Royal Navy which has become the first world power. Never the less from 1790 to 1800 only three 74´s and seven frigates were built.
 
The print I have is dated at Madrid on 1803 and as you can see the name is not on the list above so I assume it is a draft that never went to a good end. That´s what encourage me more, to actually build a ship that is unique and do it totally from scratch. The plans and the model.
 
Since English it´s not my mother tongue I am writing on word, then copy and pasting. A single post takes me a while. I´ll be updating the log from time to time trying to put all the info the best I can but trying to explain the way I draw the draft and no boring you guys with lots of literature.
 
Wish me luck!
 
Daniel.

The pdf´s attached are only the progress till now.
 
I have drawn 16 water lines separate 3 feet parallel to the top of the keel so I have 16 points to check on every frame. One frame takes me about two hours and when I get bored I draw other parts of the sheer plan.
 
The widths and moulded widths are from the 1784 Joseph Romero Fernandez De Landa vademecum. It also includes all the different pieces necessary to build ships of 100, 74, 64 and frigates of 34, minor frigates and boats and more. This vademecum is quite cheap (12€) and “rough”. It has no half breadth plan or sheer plan nor a general body plan for the different types of ships. So… you have to kind of “invent” how the hek all the pieces were fixed together. You have also to decide the scarfs on the pieces.
 
The book was intended to show the pieces to be cut on the forest with extra wood to drag them to the shipyard, especially huge pieces like the stem.
 
I am also using the book “The ship of 68 guns from 1752” (Isidro Rivera 2012 ISBN 13: 978-84-615-3821-8 (Spanish, no English edition). Pretty useful in order to follow a hypothesis of construction, for example the keel. This book shows how a ship is built following the rules of the English shipwrights. Retamosa follows the rules of the French but I can “extrapolate” some concepts. I have contacted with the author to see if he can clarify me lots of doubts about. Hope to meet him in a month or so…  
 
For example the scarfs on the keel were horizontal not vertical like on the HMS Triton or the HMS Victory. It has also 2 shoe keels. Slightly differences that have to be checked to end with a true model from that period.
 
If any of you have some info about the keel or the things I have wrote do not hesitate and post it here. Would be very apreciate it.
 
Enjoy the week!
 
 
Daniel.
pdf_30_10_14_cant fr.pdf
pdf_30_10_14_cant fr HB.pdf

You may also find these contemporary drawings of her forecastle and poop deck of interest..to aid in your construction.  If you don't already possess them.
 
Rob

Very beautiful, Giampiero. 

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.
It is a great pleasure again and again.

Here I show you how I make the blocks for the 18 pounder.
For this I use a primitive holding device so that I can bring each block with a file in form.

 

Hi Chuck
 
I still can't get over how perfect your planking is. Superb build!!
 
Nick