Mahuna

Part 57 – Cabin Exterior Details
 
My original intent was to construct Kathryn’s cabin so that the roof would be removable, allowing the interior of the cabin to be easily seen. After a lot of thought I decided against this for the following reasons:
 
1.    The boom will be very close to the cabin roof, and there would be a real danger of disturbing the boom if the cabin roof was not very carefully moved.
2.    Each cabin door consists of two parts, which allows the doors to be opened for the doghouse while leaving the lower parts closed.  Constructing these doors as two separate parts would make a very delicate part that could be damaged when the roof was removed.
3.    The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard is run over the main roof of the cabin, with pulleys, tackles, and a cleat for securing the lanyard.  Leaving the roof removable would eliminate this interesting detail.
 
The following HAER photo shows some of the detail of the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard.  Also note the controls for the Push Boat just behind the lanyard.
 
                        
 
There are two metal cleats on Kathryn: one that secures the hauling lanyard on the cabin roof, and one that is mounted on top of the bowsprit to secure the jib downhaul.  The other cleats are wooden cleats.
 
The metal cleats for the model were made from 3/64 brass rod and 1/8 x 1/32 brass strip.  The brass rod was flattened on one side using a file.  This would allow the strip to closely mate with the rod.
 
                        
 
A light groove was milled in a piece of Corian to hold the rod so that the strip could be centered on the rod for soldering.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rod was then cut to the appropriate length with a razor saw. These metal cleats are 8” long (1/4” on the model).
 
                        
 
The strip was narrowed its final width, using a file and a rotary tool.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then ground to its final shape using a rotary tool with diamond cutters, and was polished using emery cloth.  The post for mounting the cleat was also cut into the strip.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then blackened using a well-diluted (5:1) mixture of the JAX Flemish Black, giving a steel-like color.  The following photo shows the jib downhaul cleat in place on the bowsprit.
 
                        
 
There are two open pulleys that service the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard. One is on the deck, with the lanyard running below the sheave.  The other is on the cabin roof, with the lanyard running over the sheave.
 
The sheaves on the model were made from 3/32” brass rod, which would equate to 3” diameter.
 
The rod was bored out for the axle using a center drill followed by a HHS drill.
 
                        
 
The width of the sheave on the model is .020.  A parting tool was used to cut partway through the rod so that this width was set off.  A very small round escapement file was then used to form the groove in the sheave, by carefully filing the shape as the lathe turned at a relatively slow speed.
 
                        
 
The sheave was then parted off using a jewelers saw while the lathe was turned by hand.
 
                        
 
                        
 
A HHS drill bit, reversed in the tailstock, was used to prevent the sheave from coming loose when it was parted (it would probably never be found again if it left of its own accord!).
 
The body of the pulley was made from a 1/16 strip of .010 brass sheet that had been cut using a paper cutter.  The strip was bent around a 1/32” thick piece of brass strip to get the appropriate shape, and was then bent around a sacrificial piece of wood for drilling.
 
                        
 
A mounting post was soldered to the hole drilled at its base.
 
                        
 
The shape of the body was then finished using a rotary tool and a diamond cylinder.
 
                        
 
The sheave was mounted in the body and soldered on one side of the axle. 
 
                        
 
The pulley was then cleaned up using files and emery paper.
 
The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard comes out of the deck under the dredge winder, with a wooden fairlead in place to keep the lanyard from fraying on the edge of the hole in the deck plank.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs under a pulley mounted at deck level just forward of the cabin.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs over a pulley on the cabin roof, through a double-block tackle, and is tied off to a cleat.
 
                        
 
The cabin doors are fairly plain, and seem to be made mostly from plywood. The hinges on the real Kathryn are piano hinges painted to match the doors, so they are virtually invisible. The outside of the doors have some strips to provide protection from weather for the separation between the upper and lower parts of each door, between the two doors when they are closed. The interior of the doors are plain and flat.
 
I wanted to leave the doors open so at least some of the cabin details could be seen, but I wasn’t thrilled with having plain flat doors being the only thing showing.  In addition, if the doors were fully opened then the rear windows of the doghouse would be blocked.  To resolve these issues I decided to have the doors propped partially open.
 
Thin pieces of wood strip were shaped so that one edge was angled. These strips were glued to the doors at that angled edge and served as a door jam.
 
                        
 
The door jams were glued to the inside of the door frames.
 
                        
 

 
So now the cabin exterior details are completed.  The only thing left on the cabin is to fabricate the column that contains the controls for the Push Boat.  This will probably be the subject of the next post.
 
Cheers everyone!

Part 57 – Cabin Exterior Details
 
My original intent was to construct Kathryn’s cabin so that the roof would be removable, allowing the interior of the cabin to be easily seen. After a lot of thought I decided against this for the following reasons:
 
1.    The boom will be very close to the cabin roof, and there would be a real danger of disturbing the boom if the cabin roof was not very carefully moved.
2.    Each cabin door consists of two parts, which allows the doors to be opened for the doghouse while leaving the lower parts closed.  Constructing these doors as two separate parts would make a very delicate part that could be damaged when the roof was removed.
3.    The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard is run over the main roof of the cabin, with pulleys, tackles, and a cleat for securing the lanyard.  Leaving the roof removable would eliminate this interesting detail.
 
The following HAER photo shows some of the detail of the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard.  Also note the controls for the Push Boat just behind the lanyard.
 
                        
 
There are two metal cleats on Kathryn: one that secures the hauling lanyard on the cabin roof, and one that is mounted on top of the bowsprit to secure the jib downhaul.  The other cleats are wooden cleats.
 
The metal cleats for the model were made from 3/64 brass rod and 1/8 x 1/32 brass strip.  The brass rod was flattened on one side using a file.  This would allow the strip to closely mate with the rod.
 
                        
 
A light groove was milled in a piece of Corian to hold the rod so that the strip could be centered on the rod for soldering.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rod was then cut to the appropriate length with a razor saw. These metal cleats are 8” long (1/4” on the model).
 
                        
 
The strip was narrowed its final width, using a file and a rotary tool.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then ground to its final shape using a rotary tool with diamond cutters, and was polished using emery cloth.  The post for mounting the cleat was also cut into the strip.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then blackened using a well-diluted (5:1) mixture of the JAX Flemish Black, giving a steel-like color.  The following photo shows the jib downhaul cleat in place on the bowsprit.
 
                        
 
There are two open pulleys that service the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard. One is on the deck, with the lanyard running below the sheave.  The other is on the cabin roof, with the lanyard running over the sheave.
 
The sheaves on the model were made from 3/32” brass rod, which would equate to 3” diameter.
 
The rod was bored out for the axle using a center drill followed by a HHS drill.
 
                        
 
The width of the sheave on the model is .020.  A parting tool was used to cut partway through the rod so that this width was set off.  A very small round escapement file was then used to form the groove in the sheave, by carefully filing the shape as the lathe turned at a relatively slow speed.
 
                        
 
The sheave was then parted off using a jewelers saw while the lathe was turned by hand.
 
                        
 
                        
 
A HHS drill bit, reversed in the tailstock, was used to prevent the sheave from coming loose when it was parted (it would probably never be found again if it left of its own accord!).
 
The body of the pulley was made from a 1/16 strip of .010 brass sheet that had been cut using a paper cutter.  The strip was bent around a 1/32” thick piece of brass strip to get the appropriate shape, and was then bent around a sacrificial piece of wood for drilling.
 
                        
 
A mounting post was soldered to the hole drilled at its base.
 
                        
 
The shape of the body was then finished using a rotary tool and a diamond cylinder.
 
                        
 
The sheave was mounted in the body and soldered on one side of the axle. 
 
                        
 
The pulley was then cleaned up using files and emery paper.
 
The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard comes out of the deck under the dredge winder, with a wooden fairlead in place to keep the lanyard from fraying on the edge of the hole in the deck plank.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs under a pulley mounted at deck level just forward of the cabin.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs over a pulley on the cabin roof, through a double-block tackle, and is tied off to a cleat.
 
                        
 
The cabin doors are fairly plain, and seem to be made mostly from plywood. The hinges on the real Kathryn are piano hinges painted to match the doors, so they are virtually invisible. The outside of the doors have some strips to provide protection from weather for the separation between the upper and lower parts of each door, between the two doors when they are closed. The interior of the doors are plain and flat.
 
I wanted to leave the doors open so at least some of the cabin details could be seen, but I wasn’t thrilled with having plain flat doors being the only thing showing.  In addition, if the doors were fully opened then the rear windows of the doghouse would be blocked.  To resolve these issues I decided to have the doors propped partially open.
 
Thin pieces of wood strip were shaped so that one edge was angled. These strips were glued to the doors at that angled edge and served as a door jam.
 
                        
 
The door jams were glued to the inside of the door frames.
 
                        
 

 
So now the cabin exterior details are completed.  The only thing left on the cabin is to fabricate the column that contains the controls for the Push Boat.  This will probably be the subject of the next post.
 
Cheers everyone!

Part 57 – Cabin Exterior Details
 
My original intent was to construct Kathryn’s cabin so that the roof would be removable, allowing the interior of the cabin to be easily seen. After a lot of thought I decided against this for the following reasons:
 
1.    The boom will be very close to the cabin roof, and there would be a real danger of disturbing the boom if the cabin roof was not very carefully moved.
2.    Each cabin door consists of two parts, which allows the doors to be opened for the doghouse while leaving the lower parts closed.  Constructing these doors as two separate parts would make a very delicate part that could be damaged when the roof was removed.
3.    The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard is run over the main roof of the cabin, with pulleys, tackles, and a cleat for securing the lanyard.  Leaving the roof removable would eliminate this interesting detail.
 
The following HAER photo shows some of the detail of the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard.  Also note the controls for the Push Boat just behind the lanyard.
 
                        
 
There are two metal cleats on Kathryn: one that secures the hauling lanyard on the cabin roof, and one that is mounted on top of the bowsprit to secure the jib downhaul.  The other cleats are wooden cleats.
 
The metal cleats for the model were made from 3/64 brass rod and 1/8 x 1/32 brass strip.  The brass rod was flattened on one side using a file.  This would allow the strip to closely mate with the rod.
 
                        
 
A light groove was milled in a piece of Corian to hold the rod so that the strip could be centered on the rod for soldering.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rod was then cut to the appropriate length with a razor saw. These metal cleats are 8” long (1/4” on the model).
 
                        
 
The strip was narrowed its final width, using a file and a rotary tool.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then ground to its final shape using a rotary tool with diamond cutters, and was polished using emery cloth.  The post for mounting the cleat was also cut into the strip.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then blackened using a well-diluted (5:1) mixture of the JAX Flemish Black, giving a steel-like color.  The following photo shows the jib downhaul cleat in place on the bowsprit.
 
                        
 
There are two open pulleys that service the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard. One is on the deck, with the lanyard running below the sheave.  The other is on the cabin roof, with the lanyard running over the sheave.
 
The sheaves on the model were made from 3/32” brass rod, which would equate to 3” diameter.
 
The rod was bored out for the axle using a center drill followed by a HHS drill.
 
                        
 
The width of the sheave on the model is .020.  A parting tool was used to cut partway through the rod so that this width was set off.  A very small round escapement file was then used to form the groove in the sheave, by carefully filing the shape as the lathe turned at a relatively slow speed.
 
                        
 
The sheave was then parted off using a jewelers saw while the lathe was turned by hand.
 
                        
 
                        
 
A HHS drill bit, reversed in the tailstock, was used to prevent the sheave from coming loose when it was parted (it would probably never be found again if it left of its own accord!).
 
The body of the pulley was made from a 1/16 strip of .010 brass sheet that had been cut using a paper cutter.  The strip was bent around a 1/32” thick piece of brass strip to get the appropriate shape, and was then bent around a sacrificial piece of wood for drilling.
 
                        
 
A mounting post was soldered to the hole drilled at its base.
 
                        
 
The shape of the body was then finished using a rotary tool and a diamond cylinder.
 
                        
 
The sheave was mounted in the body and soldered on one side of the axle. 
 
                        
 
The pulley was then cleaned up using files and emery paper.
 
The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard comes out of the deck under the dredge winder, with a wooden fairlead in place to keep the lanyard from fraying on the edge of the hole in the deck plank.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs under a pulley mounted at deck level just forward of the cabin.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs over a pulley on the cabin roof, through a double-block tackle, and is tied off to a cleat.
 
                        
 
The cabin doors are fairly plain, and seem to be made mostly from plywood. The hinges on the real Kathryn are piano hinges painted to match the doors, so they are virtually invisible. The outside of the doors have some strips to provide protection from weather for the separation between the upper and lower parts of each door, between the two doors when they are closed. The interior of the doors are plain and flat.
 
I wanted to leave the doors open so at least some of the cabin details could be seen, but I wasn’t thrilled with having plain flat doors being the only thing showing.  In addition, if the doors were fully opened then the rear windows of the doghouse would be blocked.  To resolve these issues I decided to have the doors propped partially open.
 
Thin pieces of wood strip were shaped so that one edge was angled. These strips were glued to the doors at that angled edge and served as a door jam.
 
                        
 
The door jams were glued to the inside of the door frames.
 
                        
 

 
So now the cabin exterior details are completed.  The only thing left on the cabin is to fabricate the column that contains the controls for the Push Boat.  This will probably be the subject of the next post.
 
Cheers everyone!

Part 57 – Cabin Exterior Details
 
My original intent was to construct Kathryn’s cabin so that the roof would be removable, allowing the interior of the cabin to be easily seen. After a lot of thought I decided against this for the following reasons:
 
1.    The boom will be very close to the cabin roof, and there would be a real danger of disturbing the boom if the cabin roof was not very carefully moved.
2.    Each cabin door consists of two parts, which allows the doors to be opened for the doghouse while leaving the lower parts closed.  Constructing these doors as two separate parts would make a very delicate part that could be damaged when the roof was removed.
3.    The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard is run over the main roof of the cabin, with pulleys, tackles, and a cleat for securing the lanyard.  Leaving the roof removable would eliminate this interesting detail.
 
The following HAER photo shows some of the detail of the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard.  Also note the controls for the Push Boat just behind the lanyard.
 
                        
 
There are two metal cleats on Kathryn: one that secures the hauling lanyard on the cabin roof, and one that is mounted on top of the bowsprit to secure the jib downhaul.  The other cleats are wooden cleats.
 
The metal cleats for the model were made from 3/64 brass rod and 1/8 x 1/32 brass strip.  The brass rod was flattened on one side using a file.  This would allow the strip to closely mate with the rod.
 
                        
 
A light groove was milled in a piece of Corian to hold the rod so that the strip could be centered on the rod for soldering.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rod was then cut to the appropriate length with a razor saw. These metal cleats are 8” long (1/4” on the model).
 
                        
 
The strip was narrowed its final width, using a file and a rotary tool.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then ground to its final shape using a rotary tool with diamond cutters, and was polished using emery cloth.  The post for mounting the cleat was also cut into the strip.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then blackened using a well-diluted (5:1) mixture of the JAX Flemish Black, giving a steel-like color.  The following photo shows the jib downhaul cleat in place on the bowsprit.
 
                        
 
There are two open pulleys that service the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard. One is on the deck, with the lanyard running below the sheave.  The other is on the cabin roof, with the lanyard running over the sheave.
 
The sheaves on the model were made from 3/32” brass rod, which would equate to 3” diameter.
 
The rod was bored out for the axle using a center drill followed by a HHS drill.
 
                        
 
The width of the sheave on the model is .020.  A parting tool was used to cut partway through the rod so that this width was set off.  A very small round escapement file was then used to form the groove in the sheave, by carefully filing the shape as the lathe turned at a relatively slow speed.
 
                        
 
The sheave was then parted off using a jewelers saw while the lathe was turned by hand.
 
                        
 
                        
 
A HHS drill bit, reversed in the tailstock, was used to prevent the sheave from coming loose when it was parted (it would probably never be found again if it left of its own accord!).
 
The body of the pulley was made from a 1/16 strip of .010 brass sheet that had been cut using a paper cutter.  The strip was bent around a 1/32” thick piece of brass strip to get the appropriate shape, and was then bent around a sacrificial piece of wood for drilling.
 
                        
 
A mounting post was soldered to the hole drilled at its base.
 
                        
 
The shape of the body was then finished using a rotary tool and a diamond cylinder.
 
                        
 
The sheave was mounted in the body and soldered on one side of the axle. 
 
                        
 
The pulley was then cleaned up using files and emery paper.
 
The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard comes out of the deck under the dredge winder, with a wooden fairlead in place to keep the lanyard from fraying on the edge of the hole in the deck plank.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs under a pulley mounted at deck level just forward of the cabin.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs over a pulley on the cabin roof, through a double-block tackle, and is tied off to a cleat.
 
                        
 
The cabin doors are fairly plain, and seem to be made mostly from plywood. The hinges on the real Kathryn are piano hinges painted to match the doors, so they are virtually invisible. The outside of the doors have some strips to provide protection from weather for the separation between the upper and lower parts of each door, between the two doors when they are closed. The interior of the doors are plain and flat.
 
I wanted to leave the doors open so at least some of the cabin details could be seen, but I wasn’t thrilled with having plain flat doors being the only thing showing.  In addition, if the doors were fully opened then the rear windows of the doghouse would be blocked.  To resolve these issues I decided to have the doors propped partially open.
 
Thin pieces of wood strip were shaped so that one edge was angled. These strips were glued to the doors at that angled edge and served as a door jam.
 
                        
 
The door jams were glued to the inside of the door frames.
 
                        
 

 
So now the cabin exterior details are completed.  The only thing left on the cabin is to fabricate the column that contains the controls for the Push Boat.  This will probably be the subject of the next post.
 
Cheers everyone!

Part 57 – Cabin Exterior Details
 
My original intent was to construct Kathryn’s cabin so that the roof would be removable, allowing the interior of the cabin to be easily seen. After a lot of thought I decided against this for the following reasons:
 
1.    The boom will be very close to the cabin roof, and there would be a real danger of disturbing the boom if the cabin roof was not very carefully moved.
2.    Each cabin door consists of two parts, which allows the doors to be opened for the doghouse while leaving the lower parts closed.  Constructing these doors as two separate parts would make a very delicate part that could be damaged when the roof was removed.
3.    The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard is run over the main roof of the cabin, with pulleys, tackles, and a cleat for securing the lanyard.  Leaving the roof removable would eliminate this interesting detail.
 
The following HAER photo shows some of the detail of the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard.  Also note the controls for the Push Boat just behind the lanyard.
 
                        
 
There are two metal cleats on Kathryn: one that secures the hauling lanyard on the cabin roof, and one that is mounted on top of the bowsprit to secure the jib downhaul.  The other cleats are wooden cleats.
 
The metal cleats for the model were made from 3/64 brass rod and 1/8 x 1/32 brass strip.  The brass rod was flattened on one side using a file.  This would allow the strip to closely mate with the rod.
 
                        
 
A light groove was milled in a piece of Corian to hold the rod so that the strip could be centered on the rod for soldering.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rod was then cut to the appropriate length with a razor saw. These metal cleats are 8” long (1/4” on the model).
 
                        
 
The strip was narrowed its final width, using a file and a rotary tool.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then ground to its final shape using a rotary tool with diamond cutters, and was polished using emery cloth.  The post for mounting the cleat was also cut into the strip.
 
                        
 
The cleat was then blackened using a well-diluted (5:1) mixture of the JAX Flemish Black, giving a steel-like color.  The following photo shows the jib downhaul cleat in place on the bowsprit.
 
                        
 
There are two open pulleys that service the Centerboard Hauling Lanyard. One is on the deck, with the lanyard running below the sheave.  The other is on the cabin roof, with the lanyard running over the sheave.
 
The sheaves on the model were made from 3/32” brass rod, which would equate to 3” diameter.
 
The rod was bored out for the axle using a center drill followed by a HHS drill.
 
                        
 
The width of the sheave on the model is .020.  A parting tool was used to cut partway through the rod so that this width was set off.  A very small round escapement file was then used to form the groove in the sheave, by carefully filing the shape as the lathe turned at a relatively slow speed.
 
                        
 
The sheave was then parted off using a jewelers saw while the lathe was turned by hand.
 
                        
 
                        
 
A HHS drill bit, reversed in the tailstock, was used to prevent the sheave from coming loose when it was parted (it would probably never be found again if it left of its own accord!).
 
The body of the pulley was made from a 1/16 strip of .010 brass sheet that had been cut using a paper cutter.  The strip was bent around a 1/32” thick piece of brass strip to get the appropriate shape, and was then bent around a sacrificial piece of wood for drilling.
 
                        
 
A mounting post was soldered to the hole drilled at its base.
 
                        
 
The shape of the body was then finished using a rotary tool and a diamond cylinder.
 
                        
 
The sheave was mounted in the body and soldered on one side of the axle. 
 
                        
 
The pulley was then cleaned up using files and emery paper.
 
The Centerboard Hauling Lanyard comes out of the deck under the dredge winder, with a wooden fairlead in place to keep the lanyard from fraying on the edge of the hole in the deck plank.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs under a pulley mounted at deck level just forward of the cabin.
 
                        
 
The lanyard then runs over a pulley on the cabin roof, through a double-block tackle, and is tied off to a cleat.
 
                        
 
The cabin doors are fairly plain, and seem to be made mostly from plywood. The hinges on the real Kathryn are piano hinges painted to match the doors, so they are virtually invisible. The outside of the doors have some strips to provide protection from weather for the separation between the upper and lower parts of each door, between the two doors when they are closed. The interior of the doors are plain and flat.
 
I wanted to leave the doors open so at least some of the cabin details could be seen, but I wasn’t thrilled with having plain flat doors being the only thing showing.  In addition, if the doors were fully opened then the rear windows of the doghouse would be blocked.  To resolve these issues I decided to have the doors propped partially open.
 
Thin pieces of wood strip were shaped so that one edge was angled. These strips were glued to the doors at that angled edge and served as a door jam.
 
                        
 
The door jams were glued to the inside of the door frames.
 
                        
 

 
So now the cabin exterior details are completed.  The only thing left on the cabin is to fabricate the column that contains the controls for the Push Boat.  This will probably be the subject of the next post.
 
Cheers everyone!

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Thanks Patrick.  Can't wait to see your next build.

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Thanks Ed.

Thanks Peter.  Your models have been a major influence for me.   I'm still trying to decide on sails - but I'm leaning towards furled sails at this point.
 
Hi Brian - great to hear from you.  I originally thought about using styrene for the stanchions, but I'm glad I used brass - much stronger.
 
Thanks Ron and Tom for the kind words.
 
Hi Patrick.  Yeah, Kathryn is beautiful when seen in person.  She stands out from the other skipjacks still in use.  I'm sure she was powerful when dredging under sail, but now she depends on the power of the yawl boat when dredging.  I'd love to see her under sail during the annual skipjack races - maybe some day.....

Thanks Patrick.  Can't wait to see your next build.

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Thanks Patrick.  Can't wait to see your next build.

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 281 – Main Yard Rigging 2
 
The first picture shows the main yard ready for the next rigging steps.  The taut chain sling may be seen in this picture.
 

 
The topsail sheet chains are hanging from the cloverleaf sheet block under the center of the yard.  As described before, these chains are linked over the central pin within the block to allow them to pull down on the yard using the two tackles soon to be added.  This also permits the chains to hang somewhat slack under the yard on their way to the cheek blocks at the ends.  The two triple tackles for the sheets are shown rigged in the next picture.
 

 
The lower blocks of these tackles are hooked to deck eyebolts just forward of the mast and the falls are belayed on the topsail sheet bits using the long horizontal belaying pins.  The next items to be installed are the clue garnets with the main sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached to a single large shackle.  The next picture shows the prefabricated gear for one side.
 

 
 
The large line is the tack that was used to haul the weather side of the sail taut.  The smaller line is the lazy tack, used to control the sail as it was switched from tacks to sheets while the yard was being braced when the ship tacked.  The large block is the sheet block.  The sheet will be added later.   At this stage outboard rigging – mainly braces and lower course sheets – would be an obstacle to the work and subject to damage.  The smaller attached block is for the clue garnet.  The standing end of that line is shackled under the yard, passes through this block, back through one sheave of the quarter block and belays on the main fife rail. The hooked double block in the picture is a quarter block.  The second sheave on this block takes the fall of the reef tackle.  The next picture shows these lines rigged. 
 

 
The tacks are belayed on cleats on the bulwark rails and the lazy tacks to the first pins on the main pin rails.  These remain unglued so they may be adjusted when the sheets are added later.  In the next picture the topping lifts, buntlines, leechlines and reef tackle have been added. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of these lines.
 

 
The bunt and leech lines pass through single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, down through shroud fairleads and belay on the main pin rails.  The reef tackle falls pass under the yard, through the aft sheaves on the double quarter blocks, and belay on the fife rail below next to the clue garnets.  Next the bowlines.
 
 
 
Ed

Very nice, Frank.  
 
That bumper-A nice feature, indeed, but then again, your whole boat is full of some very nice (dare I say, ‘masterful’) features.  Top job.
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Part 56 – Push Boat Bumper
 
When not under sail, skipjacks are maneuvered by a Yawl Boat, or Push Boat, pushing against a bumper located at the aft end of the skipjack. Since most skipjacks have an external rudder post the bumper needs to be located to the side of the transom. Kathryn, however, has an ‘inboard rudder’ with the rudder post located forward of the transom.  This allows the bumper to be located in the center of Kathryn’s transom.
 
Kathryn’s bumper is supported against the lower of the aft head rails by a curved ‘knee’, and is also mounted to the deck and to the transom below the deck.
 
                        
 
As can be seen in the above photo, there are three 1-inch iron bars mounted to the upper head rail in the center portion of Kathryn’s aft area, above the push boat bumper.  There are also single bars mounted on the port and starboard rear quarter.  These bars are used as belaying pins (but are not removable) for managing the ropes associated with the push boat.  On the model, these pins are represented by 1/32” brass rods inserted at the appropriate locations.
 
                        
 
The knee was fabricated from wood of the same thickness as the head rails and was glued in place.  A support was glued to the deck.
 
                        
 
The vertical main body of the bumper is a board with rails mounted at each side, so this was fabricated from appropriate stock.
 
                        
 
On Kathryn, the area between the vertical rails contains a strip from an old tire as a shock absorber.  A piece of paper-backed felt was painted flat black to simulate the texture of an old tire.
 
                        
 
The bumper’s main body was painted, and then a strip of the ‘tire’ was glued in place.
 
                        
 
The bumper was installed on Kathryn’s aft, and the support that connects to the transom was installed.
 
                        
 
                        
 
This was a relatively simple construction, but it added a nice feature to Kathryn’s aft area.
 
                        
 
Thanks everyone!
 
 

Hi Patrick - your presentation of Shadow is elegant in its simplicity.  I've never heard of using shoe polish as a finish on wood, but it certainly seems to do the trick.  Congratulations on another great build.  Your fleet is quite impressive, and I'm looking forward to seeing what's next.

Thanks Ed.

Thanks Jack. Very nice job on your Willie Bennett.