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  1. Hi Wally that is correct. I used balsa for the filler blocks and the plywood is scrap left over from the bulkhead sheets. So if you use a hardwood for the filler you will be fine. Cheers welcome to the club
  2. Bob Hi Bob are you sure that photo is the Bluenose? I ask because of the mini rail showing on top of the main. It looks worn enough looking that you would think it would exist in any number of photo's. I have only seen one other (sorry busy no link atm) with it published as the BN and was not convinced in that case.
  3. Thomas it will be real pleasure to have you on board! Your Syren is a work of art, one of the best that I have seen Cheers, Robin ~ Thanks Justin but the jig is all Chucks I took it straight from the instructions really. Good to hear from you.
  4. What a great idea. If you could use a smoldering fire somehow it should work especially well, using a reduction atmosphere to pull the oxides out of the copper. That is what we do in Raku pottery.
  5. Excellent those plates look great. All the trial and error paid off and you worked out the solution. I didn't use a hammer, I pressed mine and found having thin art board under the copper helped making the impression. To each their own
  6. Hi thanks for the comment and that is a great question because at the start of plating I was like what the hey this is going to take forever and then some. But believe it or not I caught on to a way of removing the backing that worked pretty good for me. Hold the plate up with your left hand between thumb and forefinger so the top third of the plate is sticking up showing, with the foil side facing toward you. Put the free hand forefinger just above the plate and with a downward and inward motion toward you, flick down on the top of the plate with your finger tip. Try and flick it so you don't land hard on top edge but just flick it to skim the edge. You will know what I mean when you try it. If your folding the plate you are not skimming it the way you need to. Usually in one to three flicks the copper will release from the plate backing once you get use to it. Now you are still not out of the water, the copper has not released all the way and there is a trick to now peeling off the backing that is still stuck. Don't peel the copper in a arc it will damage the plate severely. I found it way better to kind of peel or pry out the backing from the copper by kind of suctioning it out and away while keeping the copper static. You will figure it out or something similar that works for you not to worry. You do not need CA for the back of the plate it already has a contact cement type glue on it. You will need to seal the hull tho to give the plates something to stick to. Most use a sanding sealer. I found it would be expensive as I didn't have any and so used primer paint that came with the kit. My thinking was the primer will seal the planks but remain porous to give the glue on the plate something to grab onto. To lay the plates down on the hull I place the left side corner of the plate, working from the stern, loosely exactly where it needs to be and adjust the line of the plate with tweezers holding the right side. Once in line up press it down with your finger. Do an area and then burnish pressing the plates down smooth and tight. You can press them quite firmly without removing the impression and it will actually improve it imho. You barely need any overlap, just a little not a lot. Hope this helps for you, it is a tricky one but gets easier as you go. PS I had enough copper to do the hull twice so don't worry to much about wasted plates. Use your best!
  7. That is not the cruiser sitting on the shelve below? You are giving me a good idea of what to expect when I get around to starting mine. Slow going now but you are doing a good job figuring it all out
  8. Wow bud your doing great. Some of your solutions sound good to, easy fixes like the barrel or a coil of rope to hide any small issues. Just a thought have you tried slipping a pie shaped wedge of wood into the gap between bowsprit and stem just to see if it would look alright. Your rigging is looking top notch too
  9. Thanks you ... ROFLMAO
  10. I manage a large 97 unit condo building. Mostly all retired seniors and at risk people. I`ve got quite a few in isolation at the moment from returning home from abroad. I`ve got sick people to, with similar symptoms in isolation. I can tell you that I am scared %$/"less for them, my wife and me. I am going out and cleaning every possible surface anyone could touch 3 times a day. With chemicals that are quite frankly not good for you! We are helping with anything anyone could need, does not matter we will get it just don`t go out. There is a lot of misinformation out still that people bat around with no real source. The reality is though that this is 1000 times more contagious than SARS and it is here as a result of SARS. So if you think this is a wake up call think again. What if the next one is 1000 times more contagious than this one, which we are still nowhere near finished with yet.
  11. You are probably correct Keith, but the way the model presents it is a touch confusing which is why I asked. Thanks for the great response.
  12. Hi Keith, your doing a great job with her. I have the Terror sitting on the closet shelve for a future project and will enjoy watching your build. I am also quite new to ship modelling but can't help but wonder why there are no bulkhead stanchions on the inboard side up from the deck. It confuses me because what holds up all of that planking on the Real Ship. BTW great job with the wheel it looks excellent. Are you watching AMC while you build her It's available with Canadian Amazon Prime.
  13. Time to start thinking about blackening brass parts, eye bolts, photo etched hinges etc. Got some brass on order to make the mounts for the carronades. Did up my first breach ring as a test. Used silver solder which might have been a mistake as I forgot to test if the casey brass black would blacken it and it does not! fortunately I got next to no run off so I can fix up the one. The 50/50 seems to blacken but I will do some more tests. Got a new toy the dremel vasaflame for soldering. I will have play with it a bit to get the hang of it. Darn thing gets hot fast and will melt small brass parts quickly lol. Before blackening the brass the parts were first cleaned using Sparex no2 which was mixed with water into a warming pot bought from the second hand store. After 1.5 hrs they came out nice and shinny and were then placed into straight Birchwood Casey's Brass Black for all of 7 seconds. I used a bit of cheese cloth over the opening to drain off the casey's into a spare container so the cloth would catch any parts. This worked really well and the caseys was saved for the next time I would use it. The brass turns the Casey's a dark blue. After removing the parts it will clear again after sitting for a while. I have used the same little bit of Caseys several times now. You only need a small amount depending on the size of the pieces you are doing. This is my first time using Brass Black so your results may be better or worse but I found it worked quite well. I tried doing a bunch of little parts without acid washing them in the Sparex and they came out just fine to. First pic the parts have come out of the Sparex cleaner and been rinsed off before going into the Caseys. Second & third pic: after 7 seconds the Caseys was drained off into a second container and the blackened parts were rinsed off. My new toy First attempt at a carronade breach ring I'm fairly happy with the results so far. It is my first time for a lot of this stuff. Happy to be at a point in the build where I can finally start adding some details. This will be my last update for a little while. As I have finally managed to bring the log to the point where I now stand in the build. I expect to working a little slower now also because I am managing a very large group of mostly seniors and people at risk some in isolation though the present crisis going on in the world. As a result I haven't touched the ship in the last couple of weeks but will try and get my heart back in it and get going again. Last few pics, I started in on the outboard hull details, gunport lower covers, sweep port covers and the port fore and aft covers with hinges. Boarding ladder is installed and the bumpers and chesstree. Thanks to all of you who have come on board and left comments or likes, it really helped spur me on to getting this posted up here. Stay safe all ~ Regards, Robin aka Nova
  14. I got the cap rail put on over the transom then the rudder required some shaping followed by plating. I drilled a hole through the transom which was filed out large enough to take the rudder post. The false keel plank was painted black then glued and pinned into the keel with brass nails. Next I began making the pintles and gudgeons a nail for the pintle pin and a 1/16 bit of brass tube for the gudgeons soldered onto 1/8th brass strip. I used 5 min epoxy to glue the whole assembly on with cut down brass nails to secure it.

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