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EricWilliamMarshall

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Everything posted by EricWilliamMarshall

  1. I was hesitating working on the sails; unsure how to proceed. I didn't want to waste or wreck the small piece of cloth that came with the kit. It occured to me to buy some more fabric, experiment and fail a few times until I am more comfy. I now have access to a sewing machine, although I may not use it. While hemming and hawing regarding the sails, I finished fixing up a old tool chest. I had fixed the broken drawers and cleaned and shellacked the drawer fronts. And relined the drawers. I had a little plastic tool box that was overflowing and this is much nicer.
  2. The yellow box is the older. The build is looking great! How did you decide to make the oar handles?
  3. In light of VTHokiEE‘s experience with the cleats on his flattie, I ordered some brass black to see if I could learn to use that on the cleats. I cleaned the with steel wool and vinegar. I found that the brass black didn’t work well brushed on but if the brass was immersed in the liquid, all was well.
  4. As per ccoyle’s and GrandpaPhil’s suggestions, I created a bit of non-metal frippery to act as the metal work for the tiller. I used an index card painted black (with a little brown mixed in), cut into thin ribbons. These were cut length and glued on. I then used an awl to indent slight marks where I wished to show bolts and added a drop of paint to create the suggestion of a bolt.
  5. I added a mitered rail as well. The angles are not 45 degree angles and curving the edges added to the fun, but it was quick and ‘eyeballing’ was sufficient and quick.
  6. A few of images of similar flattie models show a grating in the rear, so I thought I’d give it a try. The others are parallel rails and thought I would try to splay the rails slightly to match the surrounding trapezoidal space. That was a bit trickier than first glance would suggest. I cut a piece of paper as pattern and folding the pattern gave me the center line to work with. I set the rails on a bit of tape. I could adjust the position to my liking that way and then glue the cross rails. Later oak oil based polyurethane was brushed on.
  7. Druxey, I have ordered a handful of Dockyard mini chisels to play with (or more accurately, to see if I can sharpen and then play with them!) Thanks Chuck, druxey, reklein, and everyone else again for taking the time to take a peek and comments!
  8. I scraped away the red from the above tape line. More paint and stain! The middle black stripe bled terribly, so I scraped it with exacto blade back until it looked reasonable. Then I applied water based stain to the hull. And added two more stripes - masked with tape and applied by brush. The bright red took several coats. I had made hatch covers in mahogany and applied polyurethane. But the bass wood hatches looked just as good, so no change there.
  9. Many thanks! Many years ago I came across a book press of similar design just out of my price range and I passed on it. However, it keeps haunting me due to the number of useful ways it could be used. In any case, I'm enjoying the build - wishing you trouble-free building this holiday season!
  10. Forgive a silly question - what do you call the metal clamp part of the your press? Thanks for sharing a most intriguing and novel build log!
  11. The tape has come off, without too many issues! I stained the hatch covers and top as well, on the assumption that if I didn’t like it, they would be painted over.
  12. Stained with water soluble stain and coated the masts with the aforementioned polyurethane. The cloudiness of the polyurethane isn’t an issue if you aren’t trying to fill the pores of the wood grain. So out of efficiency, and desire for a common look (and laziness), I’m sticking with the polyurethane on this build.
  13. I covered the carving with several coats of water based polyurethane, which ‘smoothed out” the texture of the cut wood, making it look much better, than it actually is!
  14. I experimented with the finish I was using. It is a water based polyurethane but it is slightly cloudy creating a slightly opaque gray effect. I mixed in some water based brown stain and tried again.
  15. Are there great books on Chesapeake Bay workboats? I’m curious what are the canonical readings for modelers of boats and ships from this part of the world. Thanks again for everyone’s support and help!
  16. I couldn’t get the gap between the rudder and transom as close as I like, so I’m passing on the brass hinge (this time). I may try ccoyle’s suggestion or just follow the instructions- this model is an ‘idealized’ renderingalready.; i.e. light on details.
  17. Having chewed on the info dump from VTHokiEE, I figured I just try. I couldn’t find any brass strips but I did I find thin rod. I hammered it flat and and used small needle nose pliers to bend it. I found the order of bends is important- you can find yourself “painted into a corner” and not be able to continue (at least with my large tools). I also discover that after hammering the brass, the metal needs to be annealed or the bends will break the metal. For annealing, I used the flames of our gas stove and then a cup of water - that worked well.
  18. For others who my find this thread (and for David): the book, by Lankford, mentioned by Kevin is available for free as a pdf at the Model Expo site, as part of the information about the kit. Kit information: https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-WILLIE-BENNETT-SKIPJACK-132-SCALE_p_1015.html Book pdf link: https://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/documents/MS2032-Willie_L_Bennett-Instructions-web.pdf
  19. Thanks ever so much!! That is a lot of info - so for the paint scheme, I’m going with white and red on the bottom. The instructions for the Katy Cory had a number of interesting paint suggestions. First pass at the red hull:
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