tmj

One last question, pertaining to the 'flip side' of this cross section. Other than cannon balls in the bins... is there anything else, cannon ball or weapons related, that should also be displayed on 'this' side of my build?

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this topic. I now have an idea as to what items I should place on these two different decks/platforms. Thar might even be a bilge rat, or few lurking around!

Thank you mtaylor. Pictured below is what I am calling the 'Orlop'. Please correct me if I am wrong. In addition. What is the proper name for those two 'bench' like shelves/decks that are located down in the bilge, below what I am calling the 'Orlop' deck? I've built them, via Longridge's book and photos of the real ship, and I don't even know what they are called! What would be stowed on 'those' two shelves/decks/benches?

Would there not be things like rope, lumber, etc. on that deck?

I like that! Where can I purchase some 1:98 scale 'Bilge-Rats"?

Exactly what fittings, furnishings and misc. stuff would typically be found on this lowest deck aboard the HMS Victory?

I'm cheating on 'my' limber boards. Just going for effect rather than scale.

It's a rather long YouTube video, showing some major aft deck discrepancies via the Pontos kit. If I can remember which video that was, I'll certainly post the link. As for my search... I think I finally found what I need. Gold Medal Models sells two separate PE kits for the 1:350 Tamiya WWII Missouri. $70 each, but if further research proves these kits to be as good as I believe they are, "I'm in!" FWIW... The inaccurate Pontos kit was 'not' for the WWII version of the Missouri. It was for the 1991 version. If I remember correctly, Pontos doesn't even sell a PE kit for the WWII version 1:350 battleship. If they do, I just wasn't interested in taking the chance.

LOL... "Welcome to my world!" I've also seen a few 'Pontos' videos where the PE was totally wrong, in certain areas. Kinda 'not' looking towards Pontos anymore.

I've been sitting on a Tamiya 1:350 USS Missouri kit for a very, very long time. It's the 1944 version, model #78008. It's time for me to get going on this model. I've already purchased what 'appears' to be an accurate wooden deck for this kit (Scaledecks.com), but I'm now really struggling to find a photo-etch 'up-set' that I feel confident in doing this particular model any real justice. There's a few PE kits out there, but none of them are listed as being a match for my 1944 era scheme, nor the #78008 Tamiya model number. Not sure if anything else that I'm finding will actually be close enough, or not. "Any suggestions as to where I can locate a good PE set that will prove to be a somewhat accurate/good match for this particular kit, reflecting the 1944 details?" Doesn't have to be perfect. Nobody would really know the difference if it was 100% accurate, or not. "I wouldn't even know!" I just want to make sure the PE kit will actually fit my model in a respectable manner. Good PE kits aren't exactly cheap, and I'd rather not waste money on something that won't work because I purchased a set that I simply thought 'might' work...???

Does anyone know of any video links/re-enactments that reveal how 18th century shipboard cannons would have been loaded, fired, re-loaded and fired again? I'd like to see all the actions, motions, and needful operations being performed, in real time, using such cannons.

I was thinking that such was the case, and your response supports that theory. "Oh well." It'll still make for a nice looking 'deco' piece when completed. I'll just 'not' name her. Thanks for your feedback!

I started bashing a Corel 1:98 Victory cross section a while back, but took a break. I'm now back to work on it and wondering about the historical accuracy of a couple of 'pseudo' decks/shelves located below the Orlop deck. The original model is quite lacking, as sold by Corel, and the Diagostini Model Space verson looks quite sexy (that's the visual reference that I followed), however. After purchasing a copy of Longridge's 'Anatomy of Nelson's Ships', and getting back to the build, I'm not seeing those two 'pseudo' decks depicted on either the side elevation, plan #1, nor the cross section on page 63. Did Victory actually have these two platforms, or are they just 'eye-candy', created by a model manufacturer, for 'looks' and to promote sales? I wish I was more into actual historical accuracy when I started this model, but I wasn't. Now it 'Is' what it is and I need to make the best of what I started... 🤔 *NOTE*: The Orlop deck, nor the lower pump house/shot locker are glued in place, yet. This is why the Orlop deck does not appear to be sitting proper at the hull. I have a lot of detail work to go before securing that deck in place....

Were pebbles, sand, or some other medium used to keep ballast stones from easily shifting position during heavy seas? There 'must' have been 'something' used. Surely folks didn't just pile up ballast stones in the bilge. Those loose stones would easily move around, during heavy seas, and likely turn an already bad weather event into something even worse by compromising the weight/balance of the ship...???

Quite true. 'Kick-backs' can be a dangerous and scary thing, especially with thicker woods and more powerful saws. One must be familiar with their equipment, techniques and be experienced in safe practices. I hate to say it, however. 'It's hard to teach folks such things as common sense and safety!" That's usually an acquired 'foresight' that eventually comes to folks only after years of 'hands-on' working experience... and a few 'band-aids' along the way! All you experienced folks know exactly what I mean. You, yourselves were once 'newbies' too.

Nope, this thing does 'NOT' come with a fence. You must make your own. I use a 1/4" x 1" stainless steel flat-bar, that I clamp to the table, as my fence. It works great!

Yeah, most folks probably associate a 'Hot-Shot' with someone of character who's famous last words begin with the statement; "Hold My Beer and Watch 'THIS'!" 😲

That's what I've read, also... one shot every 90 seconds.

I'm reading that that cannon shot was 'cast' back in the 1700's. Okay, I'll buy that, but I need more info. Were the castings made of pure cast iron, or were those balls actually cast via an 'alloy' of mixed metals? Also, were those cast cannonballs treated, after casting, much like typical ornamental cast iron, for purposes of rust prevention? Last, but not least. "How were those cannonballs efficiently transferred from a shot locker, down in the hold, up to the proper decks, cannons and firing locations during the heat of battle?" Were man powered elevators used to keep cannonballs constantly moving up to the appropriate gun decks to insure that a ready supply of shot was always available? Surely folks didn't manually 'hand tote' 12, 24 and 32 pound cannon-balls from shot lockers, in the hold, up to misc. gun decks and individual battle stations... "Or did they?"

Take care in insuring that your whale has actually been properly 'saddle-broke' prior to blindly trusting it to give that beautiful 'whaleboat' a gentle ride! 😲 "Great Job!"

3/8" Satinwood, no problem! 3/8" Clear Poplar... "like butter!" 1/4" Ebony, zipped right through it! 3/16" Kryptonite, wait a minute... "Sorry folks, my bad." "That's a different review, posted on a different forum... in a galaxy 'Far, far away'!" 🙃 (Yes, Amazon delivers there, too... just can't get it 'PRIME' next day delivery!)

$37.99 on Amazon. This is the one that I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKRON1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm glad that you got something out of that video, however. I'm not the one to thank. "I'm just the delivery person." 'Chuck' is the person behind the informative videos and the one whom you should thank! 🙂

Something similar to this might be really helpful https://www.micromark.com/Electric-Plank-Bender . You might also want to take a look at the video below, as well as the companion videos that go with it.

Dulcie, my feline supervisor, built a fire under me and insisted that I get back to the riders, so I did. I'm hoping to find the time to complete two more sets of these riders before I go back to work this coming Thursday. I've been putting them off because I've actually done things 'backwards'. The riders are an 'after-thought' that didn't come to me until after I purchased Longridge's book "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships." (Tossing the ignorant 'newbie' card here)! I first thought that the kitted model pictures looked GREAT. After a bit of research I discovered how lacking the kitted model actually was!!! Seeing how part of the interior planking was already completed, I had no choice but to make the riders fit around the internal features and also sit 'atop' the internal planking that I had already laid. Not an easy chore, to say the least! Properly done, I should have fabricated the riders 'prior' to planking, and fitted the planks to the riders, but it's now too late to dwell on that mistake. Gotta simply work with what I've got/done. Creating nice, tight fits of all the components, after the fact, is extremely difficult/impossible to pull off in a precise, exacting manner. I'll enter this SNAFU into my beginners notebook as entry #937 of current newbie mistakes to never be repeated! There are some horrible gaps that need filling, already filled bad joints that need further camouflage, etc.. All in all, it's all good. "It's a far better thing that I do, today, and learn what 'not' to do', while bashing a kit... than to later do such things and effectively 'trash' an otherwise good build!" If I'm not mistaken, Charles Dickens once put that famous quote to pen and paper while he was hopelessly lost between two cities... maybe not! 🤥