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tmj

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Everything posted by tmj

  1. tmj
    Thanks Gary. I think that these dimensions will be quite doable at 1:98 scale.
  2. tmj
    Were the 68 pounders actually on board during the Trafalgar era?
  3. tmj
    Here's my first thought, unless a different style of arranging the shot would be more proper... like a 'pyramid' or some other configuration for staging the shot...
  4. tmj
    I'm trying to find the approximate diameters of the cannon shot that would be found on all three of HMS Victory's gun decks. I keep finding 'poundage' ratings for the shot, but no actual diameters. I'm searching for the diameters of the shot(s) in order to determine whether or not I can feasibly fabricate scale replicas of the type of shot garland 'construction' presented by Morgan, earlier in this thread. Who here knows what the diameter of what HMS Victory's different size shots would have been?
  5. tmj
    I just took a peek at a plan view showing the top of the keel, just to make sure that I did not miss anything. No joints at all are shown on the top/plan view of 'that' drawing of the keel. "It's amazing the stories that can be told with more than one view and the understanding of a 'symbol'! 🙂
  6. tmj
    Allan, 'That' answers the question! Thank you for the plan view and an elevation view! It makes sense now. I've never seen any hidden lines in the drawings that I have looked at. I only see a solid rectangle with an 'X' going from corner to corner. That 'X' does not belong in a mechanical drawing depicting a joint like this, not for true construction. This tells me that the rectangle with an 'X' 'is' just a symbol! I also now understand why such a joint is called a 'vertical' scarf joint! Thank you! Would this joint have been tree-nailed, bolted, or bolted like a sandwich with metal plates being on the port and starboard sides of the joint?
  7. tmj
    I understand hidden lines. I just don't know what an 'X' inside of a rectangle means.
  8. tmj
    Thanks Mark. I found a copy on eBay for cheap. It's on its way.
  9. tmj
    I keep seeing scarf joints shown on keels, as depicted in the photo below. This rectangular box with an 'X' in it confuses me. Does this symbol mean that the scarf joint could go in either direction, from stem to stern, or vice versa at the builder's discretion? An explanation of what that symbol actually means would be greatly appreciated!
  10. tmj
    Gary, the depth of your knowledge and your case 'proof's' never cease to amaze me! "Very enlightening and 'always' welcome!"
  11. tmj
    Ahh, okay, I get it now. Thanks Allan! Someday I'll become more familiar with a lot of these old naval architectural terms, but for now... you guys just need to bear with me! Sometimes I feel like 'Curly' from the 3 Stooges. "I'm trying to think, but nothing happens!" 😶
  12. tmj
    I used to use contact cement to bond balsa wood sheeting to foam core wings back when I raced R/C pylons (quickie races). The contact cement worked 'great', however. These airplanes also didn't have a very long lifespan. They were cheap, fast, disposable airplanes! I still have two elderly 'Scat-Cats', standby leftovers from my racing days, who's wing skins are effectively separating from the foam cores... and they have never even been flown! I wouldn't trust contact cement, at all, for the long haul...
  13. tmj
    Roger, exactly what do you mean by "The Waterways"? What is a 'waterway'?
  14. tmj
    This is the sort of stuff that I really like to see! I'm definitely going to 'try' to use this construction method on my build, if scale size allows. "Thanks again!"
  15. tmj
    Would the open bottoms of those pockets be for corrosion control/ water drainage, or was it just easier to make the garland's in such a manner?
  16. tmj
    Thanks Gary. I can see far more than just 'scalloping' going on here! This is nothing that I had envisioned, but I also really like what it shows! "Hmmm?" I may need to leave a few shot out of the garlands in order to display a construction method such as this! Very good, "Thank you!"
  17. tmj
    Did 18th century British shot garlands (first rate) actually have bowl shaped pockets carved into them, to accept the shot, or would they have been made as more simple 'troughs' to hold that shot, perhaps with a bit of padding to keep the loose shot from rolling around? I can see pro's and also con's to both scenarios from both a 'construction' point of view as well as functionality. Working with a mass-produced kit makes it difficult to determine what is actually real and what is complete fantasy!
  18. tmj
    I was able to steal a bit more time today, while supper is cooking. I've sanded the edges of the gun deck straight and true... and also trimmed out the fore and aft edges of the grating. The long piece of timber is going to become the shot garlands for holding the cannon balls. I need to carve pockets into those pieces, using a 'ball mill routing bit', on my drill-press, to hold the cannon balls before I glue those shot garlands to the port and starboard sides of my grating. I could glue the garlands on now, but if I get off of proper placement with the 'pockets', and it looks bad, I'd have to cut the garlands away and start over. That's too much work. I'm going to drill my shot garlands first. If I'm happy with the pockets for the cannon balls, 'THEN' I'll glue the shot garlands to the sides of the grating and prepare to install the grating onto the deck.
  19. tmj
    New grating material arrived. It's been cut to size, glued together and sanded. Next up will be preparing the deck, gluing the grating down and trimming it out on the deck. I was hoping to get everything done today but ran out of time. "To be continued."
  20. tmj
    Grating arrived, but it was the wrong grating. I had to re-order the proper sized stuff. I've been waiting, again! No additional work has been done other than a bit of staining and touchup work. New grating is now 'out for delivery'. Fingers are crossed in it being the proper size this time!
  21. tmj
    I'll be watching this. The only reason that I am starting off with Autocad is because that's the only CAD software I've ever used. I've also never used CAD/CAM for 3D and wood, only 2D and metal. There could very well be better choices out there.
  22. tmj
    500W 4540 sized Router, assorted tooling (including a surfacing bit) and a preliminary dust control system. It's all here now! I believe that I finally found the Fusion 360 info that I was desperately seeking... without having to learn things about Fusion 360 that I do not currently need to learn. I only want to use Fusion 360 as a 'nesting' program and to set the tool paths and generate G-code for my 3D work that was previously developed in AutoCad. Fingers are crossed... "I'm going in now!"
  23. tmj
    What is 'SU pro'? More spelling, please. What does 'SU' stand for?
  24. tmj
    Yes, there is a Fusion 360 'Personal Use' license that is available for free. Go to Autodesk.com
  25. tmj
    Many thanks, Gregory! I'll definitely look him up! Kevin, I've been using Acad since release 10 for DOS. Due to this I thought it would be a very simple transition, but I was wrong. The commands appear to be the same, but the way in which they are being used in Fusion seem to be of a totally different animal, at least for now. I poked around in it for about an hour today, my first exposure to Fusion, and I finally had to shut it down before my head exploded! Way different than what I expected! I'll definitely look into 'your' link as well. I'll eventually get the hang of it; it's just going to take a lot more time than I thought it would...

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