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tmj

NRG Member
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Everything posted by tmj

  1. It's time for me to leave this thread. Find whatever tools suit you best. That's what counts. Good luck and Happy New Year to you!
  2. Please reread my responses. I've already answered that, as well as your OEM questions a few posts ago.
  3. Sorry, but you were asking for opinions from folks with firsthand use of certain tools. You got those opinions then quickly switched to OEM. If OEM is more important than how well the tools work... maybe, you need to rephrase your question and ask again on another thread. Useability and OEM are two totally different things. Good luck!
  4. OEM? Some Chinese company, I'm pretty sure. Chinese companies ripping each other off, in competition, to see who can effectively grab the biggest market share before some 'other' Chinese company takes them down! Who cares? The darned things simply work... despite there being a hundred different labels of the exact same silly thing! LOL
  5. If I'm not mistaken, Harbor Freight is where I bought mine way back when!
  6. Here 'tis! 😁 I've cut tons of stuff on this little thing, mostly hardwoods. It's really a great little tool, despite its origins and price! As for 'thin' stuff? It'll cut a 1/32" thick plank, or a 'stack' of 1/32" thick planks just as easily and pretty as you please! Nice clean cuts even on the thin stuff!
  7. This is kinda goofy but works 'GREAT' for square cuts on thicker stuff that the Ultimation won't like. It's cheap too! Look for mini table saws on Amazon. I've had mine for 20 years and it still works like a champ!
  8. I have the complete 'Ultimation' line of products and love them all. The chopper will indeed cut a bevel on one end, but I deal with that in one of two ways. If it's planking, I'll often use that bevel to my advantage by turning the points 'up' and making a really tight butt joint against the preceding planks. If I don't want the beveled cut, I simply cut my pieces a tad long and use the sanding repeater to sand all of those parts to exact lengths while also removing those tapered cuts. As for the hand powered sander, itself. It is a gem, indeed. It's saved me many times when the complex geometry of a curious part and compound angles would make it difficult to accurately sand such a part via a powered disk sander where you must sand on one side of the disk due to rotation, etc. With the Ultimation sander, I just turn the crank in whichever direction best suits the needs for the part needing to be sanded. I have nothing but 'PRAISE' for all of my Ultimation tools!
  9. What's your budget for said 'machine'?
  10. "Holy Cow, Kieth!" "You are the 'Stairmaster' for sure!" That is gorgeous! Extremely fine detail and precise work, without a doubt! "Very impressive", I 'love' it! Now I know why it's taken you so long to post any updates to your build! 😮
  11. A quick IP search produced the following results. 🌐 IP Address & Hosting Location for artesanlalatlna.com The domain we need to analyze is: artesanlalatlna.com ❗ First important note The search results did not return any direct IP address or hosting information for this domain. That usually means one of the following: • The domain may be very new, mis-typed, or not widely indexed. • It may be using CDN protection (Cloudflare, Akamai, etc.), which hides the origin server. • It may be a clone site or scam storefront, which often use masked hosting.
  12. Not much that I can add to this beyond what Chris and others have said. You 'must' be cautious these days! Know what you are buying, know what it is actually worth, and always carefully read the web address! Scammers are getting really clever these days.
  13. "Capt. Flay's Nautical 'necessaries'... and grog whilst ye wait!" Pier #13 *Ballast by the tons burthen! *Salted Rations by the sized Cask, Barrel, Hogshead, or Butt! *Able Bodied Crew Members Auctioned Nightly! Shop me first, shop me last... either way, "Come see Flay!"
  14. Makes sense, good sense, however. What about general merchant vessels, their needs regarding ballast, etc. Desirable properties of stones, or not... "ballast is ballast to those who need it." For those with an entrepreneurial mindset (probably everyone) ... I'm sure that offloaded, unwanted 'simple' ballast was a commodity often 're-sold' to those effectively needing to 'onload' such 'simple' ballast! A fee would surely be charged for the labor required to off-load that undesirable ballast, from one ship... then when 'another' ship was actually 'needing' ballast... 'that' captain would not only be charged for the labor to load the ballast onto his ship, but probably 'also' be charged for the ballast material itself! "One man's junk = 'another' man's bankroll X2!" I can see 'useful' ballast being used in the form of 'goods' being transported, but what if there was no market for those heavy and specific goods at a needful ship's destination. Junk ballast would need to be used, would it not? Would this type of ballast have been traded back and forth, for a profit, at ports? I'm just guessing here. Sounds like it would have been a good way to make some easy money back then! (Easy for the proprietor, not so much for those unloading and re-loading the ballast stones) 🤔
  15. What type of gaps are you looking to fill, and just how big are those gaps?
  16. Buy from 'known' reputable sources and support the folks who actually go through the motions of designing that stuff with hopes of maybe earning a dollar or two for their long, tiring efforts. Don't support the Chinese pirates that simply 'steal' hard earned intellectual property, make inferior copies and effectively drive the cost of the truly good stuff up much higher than it really 'should' be, via the basic laws of marketing, supply and demand. I might ruffle some feathers here, but I honestly don't care. "I hate 'thieves'!" As soon as I see country of manufacture being 'China', I quickly walk the other way! As tempting as the price 'always' is, I also know that the product is either stolen or extremely inferior in manufacturing quality! "Just say 'NO' and pay a few dollars more!" You'll be supporting legitimate, hardworking inventors and craftsmen, as well as preserving the integrity of great quality in the needful products being sold to us hobbyists! "Don't buy ill-gotten 'crap' just because it's cheap!" "Buy the good, legitimate stuff instead!"
  17. There's a lot of truth in what wefalk states! While in Florida, I occasionally did metal fabrication and repair work for a 'salvage company'. I was told that the origin of a wreck was oft times determined long before the actual wreck itself was located, if located at all, due to the type of ballast stones found trailing along the bottom. Proper types of stones let them know they were on the right track. Improper stones meant a new, uncertain 'something' worth noting... but nothing to usually get excited about!
  18. Bonus Tip! If you need to duplicate complex geometric shapes, get one of 'these'! They're called 'contour-gauges'. Shove the needles into, or upon the said curious shape, lock it down, then trace that projected shape onto paper, with a pencil, and you have a template to replicate whatever complex geometry was measured. 😉
  19. Dial, or 'digital' calipers are always your best friend! They can measure 'anything', almost. Sometimes you'll need a telescopic 'I.D' gauge for difficult to measure areas, but you'll also need the caliper to measure what the I'D. gauge fits into. Caliper is good for 'this'. Note the inside measuring jaws, the outside measuring jaws, and the 'depth Blade'! Telescopic 'I,D.' gauges look like this. You put them 'inside' whatever you're trying to measure, rotate a screw to extend or retract the ends, then put your calipers on the ends of the I.D. gauge to get an exact measurement. These are really handy when certain things get in the way of simply using your calipers alone. With these two gadgets in your toolbox... there are very few things that you'll ever struggle to successfully and accurately measure!
  20. Looks really 'GRAND' Keith! I don't think that even alcohol and fire could have produced finer results than that! 😏
  21. V6.0 looks really, really good! The scale is there, font looks proper, it's sooo dang close! Looks can be deceiving. I think you are there! simply darken the interior of your letters and if you want to get 'real' picky crisp up the outer edges of those letters just a teeny-tiny bit (don't clean up the edges so much that it looks professional) and you'll be spot on, just like the photo!
  22. I typically don't paint. I try to get my joints fitting tightly, butttttt, I'm also not perfect. If I get something a bit loose, I like to dilute Titebond II (dark) with water and add it to the gap then sand with 220 grit paper to mix the sawdust with the wet glue. I use the dark Titebond as that is what I use between planks to simulate caulking. It dries super dark brown, like chocolate. Works really well for me. I do this while things are still in the rough, before final sanding and finishing. I'm sure it would work quite well for filling gaps that will be painted also, provided the gaps are not too large to fill with sawdust and glue.
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