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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. So I took my time to learn how to make it closer to the real thing. I used Takao's hull to avoid mess on the model. The real thing Comparing to the previous project I feel far more satisfied. Because this is not a repeat of my usual work. It is a step forward as at last learned how to create waves and wakes the way I wanted. There is more space for improvement, for example the wave at bow should be more sharp and thinner. I will repeat the scene with Takao in the future and compare. The model also has some imperfections especially on railings and detail can be improved. But I dont mind, the scene overall is ok.
  2. I quited the 3d base and I a made a new one from Styrofoam. The plan of making a wooden base was aborted because this project needs to be finished so I focus on another. A small fall cause some mast and railing damage, they will be repaired tomorrow. The project is done.
  3. The model is finished apart the helicopter. The decals on the heli area where not positioned correctly because the instructions where not accurate. Another disadvantage of the kit. I could go for adding extra details but I feel the need to move on. Overall a medium quality kit. Best part was the included PE. It covers 80% of the extra details provided by Flyhawk set.
  4. From what I see from the scale you have a calm to moderate sea state. That means no need to torture yourself with shades of blue. You can made a decent sea by using only dark blue and white. You can spray the whole thing with ocean dark blue then lightly paint the ship surroundings with white using airbrush
  5. For the rigging material I used fake hair extension. Very good thickness, easy to work with and it causes less tension to the masts. I took me 3 evenings about 2 hours each evening. First I did the forward section, next the middle and lastly the stern section. Even not elastic, it causes some stress to the plastic parts. To cut the excess material I used hot needle. This has to be done with caution not the damage the rest rigging or the plastic parts. Another advantage for the brass masts. I wish they weren't SK difficult to make. Maybe one day I will be able to make it better
  6. Last touch up details before weathering Done paint weathering. Ready for rigging. It will be a long and painful progress
  7. I assembled the main radar. There were multiple parts. It was as fragile as a mosquito. Canon barrel was upgrade, using needles of various diameter and coper wire. I printed a new SSM box with more detailed base, an anchor and tiny barrel rafts
  8. Apart from the sprue containing the hull parts there's only another one. So Iooking for the parts is not time consuming I used surgical movements in order not to lose any tiny PE part. Also the minimum amount of glue used, to avoid mess. My tip: If excess PVA or CA glue used I burn the part with a lighter to remove it instead of scratching it especially if its a tiny one.
  9. Another built of an unpopular model. Kang Ding Frigate of the ROCS Navy. A Taiwanese version of the French La Fayette Frigate. First impression opening the kit is like "I ve been cheated a bit", lol The plastic also looked very cheap and elastic Fortunately I obtained a PE kit from Flyhawk, let's see how I can make this kit looks nice
  10. I bought a model of Aichi E13 planes. It printed out just fine. Details were added. At this stage the model is 98% complete one step before adding oil washes and rust effects
  11. I managed to do a bit of progress today. More boats fitted with extra details and some PE parts. Rails added at the rear area but the fit, I think may need repositioning. Also paint faded out because of the effort. The reason is that the stern is not level but going downwards as in the real ship as you can see in this Takao drawing Another unsolved problem is that the upper deck is painted in linoleum color like the main. I don't know how I missed this but its too late for correction.
  12. Today it was a day with lot of work but little progress. I don't know how many pieces I lost. But its my target to add as much detail as possible
  13. Got back last week and I'm back to work again although still feel a bit lazy First I need to take care of my new items The only work for this weekend was the addition if boats. Davits were made of 0.3 mm wire. AA guns were mistakenly positioned a bit more forward so room for boats was marginal. When you improvise any possible detail have to be considered additionally or such problems may occur
  14. sometimes we need to apply high skills to get the desired effect and this may fail so we need to improvise
  15. A last update with some details added on bridge like binoculars and rails. I was hoping to finish this before my departure but couldn't make it. Tomorrow I will fly to Malaysia for a month vacation trip. Will do some shopping to improve this and my future models
  16. Done fitting the last light platform and the fire directors. Now its shape looks complex like most heavily modified IJN ships. Today the fleet was out for inspection in the Gulf of Kitchen
  17. Parts put in place Some fitment problems always occures when making your own parts. For example the towers with the fire directors should be between the real funnel and the AA gun platform. But there was not enough space so they were put just behind the type 89 gun. At least they reveal more details on this way.
  18. Little progress today. I add some hidden details, bridge supports. The pieces used were really tiny even being the biggest of the three sizes. More details will be added later, like binoculars, railings and more. Work on the main mast started The middle ship is Takao. This was given by a friend. We bought these kits from the same store at a blow out sale. Maybe 15-20 kits. the other one I have is maybe a Furutaka class, will research it later
  19. What a disaster That mast had wrong orientation. The upper part should lean towards the stern. Also the base at the tripod top should face the bow not the stern. I simply cut it and remake it. It was moderately hard. Fortunately for this rigging task, I use a wire 0.10mm which is extremely easy to handle, very durable even very thin. most important of all it keeps it shape Nevertheless I had to make one more platform. Then a smaller one on top. I also made a preparation for the sea bed. I bought a textured water effect paper because I want to create a specific scene.
  20. Well yes I can see people complaining that working in 1/80 or 1/100 its too hard as this is a small scale. However I believe in smaller scales its easier to hide imperfections, 1/700 is a quite forgiving scale.
  21. I also put bigger shields on deck for triple AA guns. There's no easy way out. Need to make a new rear as well as main mast. There's none on PE set so must be scratched. Unfortunately I'm very bad on welding. Upon upon sanding the excess solder it broke. Need to find another way of making a precise and durable part. By inserting the tiny ring I gave some place for the smaller pieces to sit on. CA glue did the rest. The support below gave extra strength. Quite pleased with the result overall. Move to finish the details. It came out really nice. Some test fitting. I had to put something that to prevent it from falling in front because of the weight due to metal crane A comparison to the plans For others it may be a daily job for me is one of my best achievements in modeling
  22. Thanks for the comments I decided to take my time and make a more accurate built after researching. Japanese ships are very complicated because of many modifications caused by Washington Treaty and their defeat at Midway. The AA guns were landed the platform was for searchlights I also had to modify the bridge again. Maybe need to make some small corrections during main mast installation
  23. I am going to use a PE set I got some time ago.There are, among others, supports for gun platform. But I don't see the platform or I lost it. However its on my drawings as part of the modernization of the ship. So I made a new one Its long and thin piece and will bend easily. so I reinforce it with a stripe of metal 0.20mm thick Then, AA guns were glued. Some test fitting before prime it These Fujimi PEs are detailed but also quite durable and hard unlike other brands so they are far easier to work with. I really enjoy fitting them
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