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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. Yes but not for me as this is in 1/350. Randomly looking I found that this set cost around 350$. I think the Eduards option is far more decent for 100$ even less detailed.
  2. So my next work is on the middle platform. Maybe the worst part of the kit. The funnel seats on the platform but in reality its base is quite lower. The kit This is what I need to make. A separate from the superstructure base and a Π shaped gun platform, on the top. On the lower side there is another gun platform for 2 Oerlikons I think, at the corners.Note this is in 1/350 thus of so much detail. I moved on to remove carefully the main piece without causing damage And mark the area where needs to be cut but not before I make the central platform and see how will it fit in the middle
  3. Perhaps. I am using complete models and 3d drawings mostly as a reference instead of old low res photos. https://www.artstation.com/artwork/nEnQ96 Such an old model can hardly be accurate.
  4. I worked at the rear section, added as Mich details as possible.scratch built, 3d print + PE work.
  5. Trumpeter has good detailed and reasonably priced kits. Great Value for money. The selection of kits also is getting better every year
  6. Another day with lot of work but zero progress. The resin foredeck got warped. Not much, but I decided to replace it with another one made from less flexible resin, also got the chance to work on the gun shields, giving them a more realistic shape. Of course this didn't came with out damage. But I'm good on such kind of surgeries. The foredeck is glued on a 1mm plastic to improve stiffness, left overnight under pressure. It will be installed permanently on a later stage, want to make sure that it won't warp again.
  7. I continued painting the hull. Googling for color codes AI interacted and suggested than in 1/700 colors should be mixed with 20% white. Sounded reasonable but I prefer to cover apply lighter shades upon completion before oil weathering
  8. With 39°C impossible to airbrush. Paint would get dry instantly. Therefore I finished the job on the right antitorpedo belt this using a more powerful tool. Result with some had work came pretty nice, much better that the original Today painting was possible. The PE guns shields proved too fragile and hard to be glued on deck. I removed them and replaced them with 3d ones I made, bit thicker with reasonable detail. Unfortunately some glue spots and scratches on deck are visible. Some can be covered but few will remain visible on close looking
  9. I trimmed down the belt at an angle. Using a proper tool I created a slopping effect which is only visible only at close distance. Left side, done need to work at the right. Then I added new bases for the 40mm guns. Those at the bow did not exist at the original model so I added myself
  10. These old kits doesn't refer the time period but I expect to put 40 Oerlikons which means 1944? So you mean in 1/700 the ideal belt thickness is 0.5mm? That means I need to remove more material
  11. Unfortunately the wood deck I bought from the same manufacturer was of lower quality this time, somehow deteriorated. Studying about the painting schemes I found out that the deck could be painted with Navy Blue under Measure 22 system or something like this.That would be easier to do.However because of the sanding the lines on forward part of the deck had been gone. So designed one and printed it out . some PE details were added, bollards and a few other soon. Finally I sanded the side belt, it looked too thick perhaps one meter in real scale
  12. Next theme North Carolina by Aoshima I wash and remove the unwanted parts. Deck was covered by dozens of tape pieces 0.6 x 10mm before spray. That would give a planking effect. The result wasn't the desirable. Some corrections by hand didn't make the situation better. I decided to use sticker wooden deck which I usually keep for carrier decks. So much time wasted today on painting. Enough for today. Time to study some books
  13. Great work. Too much paintwork for me to deal with. Did you use brush only on airbrush too?
  14. It is done. I added a simple base, nothing to be proud of, but the overall look turned ok
  15. Thank you That would be a fascinating built. I have the Revell Leopard 2 but I'm hesitant about the camouflage painting
  16. I improved the "eyes" of the tank, using 3 mm drill. Then filing with silicone to have the glass effect. Silicone was painted with red food coloring. One single brush hair was used for the red dot. I brushed many times with light color then darker, to make the weathering. Some chipping applied. Next will be oii washing, before I paint the tracks
  17. Τhe tracks look very detailed. Actually they have some tiny printing supports that need to be removed. It was tricky business some pieces broke in two as they quite fragile. Attention was given on the lower part. At the upper part single track pieces were not used, fortunately side fenders hide the unfinished job, about 20%.
  18. I replace the cable with a thicker and more realistic one I believe. Wheels are painted not perfect but ok because the weathering effect will cover minor imperfections. Ready for placing the tracks. I have all weekend for this
  19. The wheels come in two pieces, front and rear as usual. The unusual is that I have 12 rear and 36 front pieces. That means I can choose those depending the version I want to built. Minus the turret of course.😁 Last details before wheels and trackwork A made a tow cable and added the wood at the rear. Then paint over as well as the sides of the wheels.
  20. Today was a pleasant day. I had to remove the side fenders so I can access for the track Installation. The whole body was sprayed with green enamel. This paint along with others was bought 30 years ago. Not only was functional but spraying was super easy. No primer is also needed when use these oils. I think the good painting revealed more the details, feeling somehow compensated for the time spent trying to correct the model
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