mikegr
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Everything posted by mikegr
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After priming and painting the wood like sticker deck was attached.I had to add it in pieces. Used tiny bits of putty to fill the gaps then painted with tan color. I used the same color for oil washing along with some black.I will do the same for the hull will working on the bridge part
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
As it was expected with so much paintwork a mesh was causes plus I had left some detailed job unfinished. I started with the stem section Now I have to work the front area
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Was looking at the hull only to find out that some details like side vents are not very visible. Also the wooden deck on not incorporated into main body, instead its a ridiculously separate thick piece on top of it. While browsing online I found good information, drawings and plans as well a 3d file of the sub. After some modifications and test I printed the hull in two pieces ,as it was too big to fit on my smallbplate, with good and accurate detail. Not sure if I restore the old kit, maybe use it as a guide for a new kit, it will be my first attempt in a fully printed kit Hull was glued and gap was filled with CA. Tomorrow will prime it and move on
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After the big project a small one. i400 submarine by Aoshima
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
It was about time to do what I avoided to do lately. To paint the hull. Body was prepared by sanding it with 400,600 and 1500 grit sandpaper. For this size of hull an air compressor with a medium pistol would be ideal. Spray cans are far away from appropriate. The museum models are painted with colors from automobile industry therefore looks so impressive even bit unnatural. Then I layered tape strips and start spraying. The curved rear area was troublesome to tape. This hull also requires 3 colors, white, red and brown. After finishing the layers it took me another week working on evenings to get the desired outcome. Finally a medium gloss varnish was used.
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I filled the gap on the waterline. Next, was to whiten the space between the two long wakes. It was easy because the sea texture, the first step, was completed successfully. I shaped the bow wave with silicone. Finally, gave a couple of coats with high quality gloss and will still sticky I sprinkled few glitters on white surfaces to give a reflective effect under light. Overall after many attempts I feel like this was not a repeated work but an improved one over the previous. Therefore I feel more happy than pleased. The surrounding balsa wrap is ugly but it ok with it, last time I use it on a Styrofoam base
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I went to a friend with proper compressor and i managed to preshade the wakes. Next the buffles were created by acrylic putty formed with pin and small fork. To eliminate the "gap" between strong white and prepainted faded area I sprinkled some microballoons. Next step was to place the ship. Waterline gap was covered with snow paste and a bit of PVA glue. I used a pin to spread it while I had a wet brush stand by to clear the hull from excess white paint.
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how does this battery operated airbrush performs? And what type of paint are you using?
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So I did a lot of research before starting the base. As always I will try a new method. What is very essential in a water layout is the texture.I have long time quited the random pattern created by foil sheet and create mine. Today an artist paper will be used with wavy rough surface which still need some modification. So I cut the paper and glued it on a 2cm Styrofoam piece. Next, I gave it a couple of thick primer coats with brush to smoothen it up a bit. The result was mediocre so process was repeated with heavy gel instead of acrylic. This also gave me the chance of reshaping the surface in some areas by creating waves in the same direction of the preformed ones. Then i took a few hours off to research about bow waves. My target is a higher speed ship on a light - moderate weather. Curling a semi dried piece of gel glue I managed to get a desired shape. Next phase was an initial layer of dark blue acrylic and take a photo while its still wet to appear a temporary glossy effect
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Next was to replace the swimming pool. I printed the walls, glued them together. Wood fillet chopped ,varnished and put on. Next step was the davits. The base was 3d printed but the upper part was a bit hard to draw so it was scratch built from 1mm styrene. Then 2.5mm reels added.
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Airgroup is done. With 4 Hellcats and 2 Devastators. Its the first time I use all the PE upgrade parts, canopy, propeller, landing gear, even rear single gear. Added some weathering and put on deck. A few minor work tomorrow and I will proceed to the water base
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I'm working at the funnels. Its a highlight spot of this ship. I printed a couple of pairs and I had to do some scratch work to correct some mistakes After lot of sanding I get a desired outcome
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I am building the air group. First wave is a six pack of SB2c. I added some PE work and paint them a 3 color camouflage with brush. Some weathering, oil brushing and mat varnish. In my new builds I will use high detailed 3d printed ones. There is not much space for improvement on these oldies
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Work on cranes started. I printed the parts. Then assembled together and paint. Put crane frame supports using 1mm chopped plastic rod. After the fitment I scratch built a crane holder and glue it on port side on deck. It was difficult because my scratch built skills have been deteriorated since I spent most time on 3d design than making my parts by hands
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Thanks for the comment. I did avoid early painting to avoid any accident as I am quite messy Too much trouble for little progress. I added some shelters on bridge deck. Started with scratch building then decided for a more delicate job so I just printed them. Still measurements were incorrect, so multiple couples were tried to get the final fitment. On the top I used sandpaper 280bgrit pieces to simulate the material show on first pic. Before installation, a pair of compass were fitted one of each side of the bridge
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Thank you Actually a year ago I was no related to 3d design either. And 3 years ago I was wondering how people could make ship models without a kit, just only from plans -
Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
mikegr replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
While working on the masts suddenly realized that I was totally out of scale. I reprinted two of them with some modifications on top and other an one inch extension to the 3rd one. Then i moved to test fitting. And a last pic with the funnels on
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I installed PE, mostly nets and few others. Rigging time. A combination on melted sprue and elastic thread for longer pieces. The way I handle sprue fibers is with the tip of a file sometimes bit wet for extra grip. I do not use sharp tweezers as it can bent the pieces. At the end of the file a needle is attached were I use to deep into PVA or CA glue if I want a quick dry. After rigging work is almost done, time to deal with air crew. Note that this is my first extra modified kit with addition of resin self design parts so some fittings problems occurred. Buy I need to move on.
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Thanks for the comments. It is the small scale actually that helps me to make these as in 1/350 or higher, more detail would be needed which I cannot design at the moment. Back to the building, I sanded the PE parts and sprayed them with epoxy primer. Crane was assembled but a mast was needed as well. So I scratch built one copying the Pontos model.
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Perhaps I reached my design limits
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Working with printed and PE parts together gave a better appearance but it proved time consuming while results could be better, the tiny PR parts are quite hard to handle. So I started experiments by printing my own Bofor guns. Here is a test print along with a pair or Phalanx which I think are too small for 1/700 I need to recheck
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Books to learn Fusion 360
mikegr replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I have started using this tutorial. Its also updated, 2023 -
Back to work after some absense. After installation of 5" and AA guns it was time to paint the hull. Unfortunately the paint used for the funnel didn't perform well with the airbrush and such a large surface would take me several hours to paint it. So I bought a spray can knowing that matching the color would be impossible. Only option would be using weathering techniques to match the colors, using a brush for hull painting wasn't an option. I then applied several shades of blue with dry brushing from dark blue to whitish gray. Then did some chipping mostly on waterline and bow. Finally used mat varnish and oil wash on guns and platforms, as well as bit of rust. Bridge and funnel were also lightly dry brushed with same colors to reduce the difference with the hull. To a comparison here is a job of Master Katseas with his Tamiya Saratoga. You can see the great job done on panel lines
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Kαλως ηλθες!
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gel coat and you re done
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