jaerschen

Build log part 61
 
 
 
here a Little update...
 
but first  a big update...
My wife and I are proud of our first grandchild, a Little "Nina" she was Born on 10th Sept, she is so sweet, and we are so happy and thankful that all went well...., you can consider me the proudest grandpa These days...
 
One can sure wonder how many lace thread goes into the crowfoot lacing, it is 180 cm Long. I had to undo it when I was halfway through, remove the too short lace-thread and redo it, Those Little blocks for tensioning are only 2,5mm Long, was quite a  fiddling Job,.
 
Nils
 
 

Finally I feel I know enough to start the rigging.  I did the starboard shrouds, the fore stay and the spring lines.  I had to do the deadeye lacing three times and the spring lines twice.  I made a jig to help make the thimbles but I’m still scrap a lot.  I may have to remake the jig.  Still a long way to go but at least I’m started.
 
Bob
 

                         Starboard side
 

                         Main shrouds
 

                        Fore shrouds
 

                        Main topmast looking aft
 

                        Main masthead
 

                        Fore masthead

Hey Ray!!! Great to hear from you also!! Yes, I'm still working in the shipyard, haven't given up yet.... LOL    Just doing a lot of thinking on ways to deal with each new build session as it comes along.  Making very slow progress at it due to back pain problems but making some headway on this ship cross section.  Working now on getting these eyelets painted and inserted into the cannon frames, one at a time while trying not to chip the flat black paint off the eyelets as I push them in the tiny holes I've drilled.  So far I'm not 100% happy with the results, very hard to not chip the paint as you can see in these close up pictures. Yes.... I've thought of the gun blueing liquid and tried it but not happy with it either, not dark enough on this wire I'm using. I'll more then likely just do some touch up with a paint brush where I nicked the paint.
 
AL 

New beams have been bent and temporary installed on x-section for marking.
 

 
Drilled through frames and used straight pins to hold beams....will be planked over later to cover holes
 

 

 
Layed out most of the cross beams while main beams were on the x-section. May be hard to see the lines
 

 
Started cutting the cross beams to length..used scrap wood on miter to prevent any tear out when cutting to length.. 
Decide to use clamps to hold wood while cutting....[to close to moving blade for my fingers]
 
Here is my set up......maybe it may help someone later on. Pictures should explaing
 

 

 

 

 
Back to the shop for more sawdust  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

hi all
back home after a couple of days chillin (rock beer and curry!) serious abuse of ones ears and digestive system. marvellous!!
just a few more photos of the cross section,been sneaking a bit of time in whilst finishing the sloop model off.
 
frames faired, i hope. wale strakes fitted in ebony.
limber boards and strakes fitted just working my way round the various ceiling timbers.
 
have cut some forms for the deck beams will be soaking some pear later and clamping everything up for later.
 
will now be working on triton section more or less full time,whilst i do some planning for the next full hull build.
 
 
cheers for now.

This shows my multi tool table saw, made from scrap I had around the shed. The flexible shaft sits in a groove on a hinged block to set the depth and has a locking block screwed on top to hold it in place. I have put a mark on the block to line this up each time I set up. The mandrel is from a small drum sander has a small washer each side of the blade to keep it a bit more rigid. The top was screwed on then I turned on the power and raised the blade to cut through the top.
 

 

 

 

Hey everyone, been a little while, but have been quite busy lately.  So I have all the frames completed!!  Now I'm in the process of cleaning up and getting things ready to start erecting them.  I also made just a couple of those clamps that EdT described in his Naiad log, plus some adjustable squares, and a homemade plumb-bob out of a fishing weight to use to make sure the frame is centered and level. I'm also going to be using fillers as I go.  I'll be adding in the fillers for the cant frames as well.
 
Here's the couple of clamps I made. At least for me, they were pretty difficult to make, but was able to do so and most importantly, they work! 
 

 
Finally, I read through my build and noticed that I hadn't really described how I do anything, and feel pretty bad about it. I just put up some pics of the end results, so below is a walk through of how I constructed the frames. From now on, I'll be doing these walk throughs for every major construction sequence. Also, my apologies to the community for not doing it that way in the first place, the way I believe build logs are supposed to be written.
 
I know most folks doing this build are beyond this point, but it might help some that may decide to pick it up.  Also, if anyone sees anything that I can improve upon for future builds, by all means please let me know what I could do better as this is my first scratch build and only my second ship, there are probably plenty of things I could do better or differently that will improve the outcome.
 
Step 1:
All pieces were cut a little outside of the lines, ends sanded to size.  Then they were test fit on the patterns to ensure the joints lined up properly.


 
Step 2: The blue-lined pieces were darkened on the joint ends with my trusty Sharpie marker. If you decide to go this route, test the marker on scrap pieces of the same wood before deciding to use it. The marker may bleed into the wood and the glue does change the color of the lines. Experimentation is the best method. Then the blue-lined pieces were glued making sure the beveling lines and joints match-up on the pattern and allowed to cure.
 


 
Step 3:
Once the blue-lined pieces have cured, the red-lined pieces were test fit and the ends were marked on the blue pieces. The assembly template was removed and saved for later. I used a scrap piece of MDF that I roughly cut the corners to accommodate the different curves of the frames and have plenty of room to clamp them.

 
Step 4:
The floor futtock template was cut along the dotted line where the first futtock begins using a hobby knife and the end of the 1st futtock we marked in the previous step was also cut. This portion of the template was removed, sanded a little to ensure the joint on the blue lined pieces was flush, then darkened with the good ole sharpie again.

 
Step 5:
The joint ends and bottom where it would be glued to the blue lined pieces were blackened as well and the first futtock piece was glued and clamped into place taking care to line up the joint lines again with the first futtock and the below pattern piece.  The previous step and this one was repeated on the rest of the pieces. and allowed to cure completely. After I got up to frame 15 or so, I switched my glue to hide glue (the kind you don't have to warm). I love that stuff now, very hard and holds extremely well, and has a long open time. I've had pieces pop apart without much pressure using standard wood glue. If you screw up as often as I do, then all it takes is some warm water, a few minutes, and it will release pretty easily.


 
Step 6: Once the frame has cured completely, then it is sanded just unto the outer most line on both the inside and outer curves. The keel notch was cut using a small jeweler's saw and cleaned up with a file. Then double=checked with the frame's assembly pattern.


 
Step 7:
The pattern was then removed from the frame, which I will probably regret now that I think about it. Up next was the bolting. According to my source of research, on this period of ship and size, the bolts were 1", which translates to 0.020" at 1:48. I had initially planned on doing the chocks and scarfs for the top timbers as described in in my research, but didn't have the courage to do so for fear of screwing up the frames, so I left out those details. The pattern of the bolting is the standard offset pattern. They were cut a little long to allow for a good end when clipped and filled off.  They go completely through the frame and are set with a dab of CA inside the hole. After that, they are lightly sanded on the fore and aft faces to clean them up a little bit, and ta-da!


 

Lining Out
    Well spent most of the day off and on making  battens of various sizes and kinds, glue and tape, nothing worked for me couldn't get them to lay flat spaced right moving them around to get the space to look right and stuck again was to say the lest a mess.   So taking some advice I went to line and double sided tape and in about half hour I was done well I think I'm done. I'll put some watered down white glue on to hold them in place better.
 
What do you think will this work. Do they look OK.
 
TJ
 

I have finished the garboard and it looks pretty much straight I hope time will tell.  It looks like it doesn't fit right it does just made it too thick clamped too tight made dings.  I love sanding.
 
Cut planking to day don't think there's enough but it a start.
 
Thank you Tim
 
TJ

If I can remember how to put the pic in order .
I have made repairs from bad docking procedures. But I keep for getting there are two sides to look at and this is the bad side of the bow.
Dumb me I figured out the garboard dimensions. Hopefully when all the clamps com off there will be a straight line.
 
TJ  

Still working on the temporary ribans, the gunports and will clean up the ends of the frames before I start internal works.
 

 
Guy

Thought I would chime in since I haven't posted in a while.  I didn't think it was all too important to post each and every frame as there are tons, but I have made it to the halfway point.  I finally have the aft square frames constructed, 0-19. There is quite a color disparity between the more midship frames and further aft (lighting in the first picture makes it look worse than it is), but it is still the same wood (mahogany) if you're wondering. Thats what you get when you buy as you go with the wood I guess. Gives it a little character, so I'm sticking with it.
 
I am quite burned out with making frames so I am taking a break from those for a little bit to make some jigs and things I plan to use when I erect them. I've been reading EdT's methods for doing things in his Naiad and Fair American builds on how he erects the frames and I am building some of the clamps he described and the adjustable squares he uses, and altering my gantry a little.  It will be time well spent and hopefully keep the mistakes to a minimum. Better the prep, better the outcome I think. Once that's done, then I'll finish up the rest of the frames.
 
Until next time, happy modeling!!

Howdy everyone.  I think I got the hawse frames worked out.  They're roughed out and still have quite a bit of fairing left to do on them, but think they came out pretty good.  I am happy with them.  I'm off building the aft square frames and fairing while they cure.  Have a good weekend, and to the folks in the US, have a great Memorial Day.
 

Hello everyone.
Here are a few photos of the last month. I allowed myself some liberty and filled the gaps between the square frames. I do not know if that is right with the historical and structural point of view for the frigates, but I saw something similar in the logs for the construction of class sloops "Swan". Of course, in reality it was not so, but our figures are enough simplifications and conventions.
Now I want to make temporary ribbands to align and secure toptimbers then treat body inside.

Hello! Thank you for your kind words about my work. Continued hope will not disappoint you. The past month has been spent on the production of frames. Now they are ready to everything except turning. Here are the latest pictures.
 

Здравствуйте! Мой Тритон растет, хотя и не так быстро, как хотелось бы. Теперь это выглядит так:
 
Edit by moderator for translation: Hello! My Triton is growing, though not as quickly as we would like. Now it looks like this:

Hello All and thanks for the coments! Really appreciate all of them...
 
I am still working with the main wale and I´ve started with the gun ports. Pretty tough stuff, measuring, chiseling, trying with one piece repeating again the same piece...
 
I have also make a pdf with the camber of the lower deck beams. I need to Know the space between the floor of the hold and the lower deck beam to start making the bulkheads of the different "rooms". I also need to put all the hooks and breast and mast bases so I´ll be working a lot these days.
 
Richard! I have been doing a "research" looking for good plans for a longboat, but nothing arround is relaible to me. I guess I will have to redraw one plan out of a AOS book or something.
 
here are some pics...
 

 
I use a little mirror just to ensure that the plank is true to the frames.
 

 

 
This was my first attempt. Gun port #8. I did a little bit os surgery cause I did the sarf too low on the upper beam.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Using a square pine stick of wood is "must be". It really helps a lot.
 

 
I used a clamp to avoid damaging the frames while I am sanding the frames. (up or down)
 

 

 
Even with all the "care" one put on sanding there is always gaps, at least on my work. I glued small chips of wood, let´em dry and then trim them with a blade. All of this will be sand of course.
 

 
 
Good luck!
 
 
Daniel.

Hello Hello!
 
Finally something to post on… small progress due to my exam to become a taxi driver (I have failed twice). You can see the Madrid plan on the back. We´ll see the third attempt… fingers cross.
 
I am dealing with the main wale. I cut several planks to its size and length. 150mm divided on 3. 50 + 50 +50. The ends are 3mm and in the middle is 5mm (3) (50) - (5) - (100) (3). The planks are 3mm thick, quite difficult to bend. I soak them on cold water for 24h, then clamp them and let it dried for another day and then glue them with the clamps. By the way I put the shorter length of the plank aiming the stern which I think it´s an error. On AOS boob about the HMS Diana clearly it is seen than is the longest that goes on that way...
 
Here are some pics.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I am also been thinking. Thinking a lot and reviewing my “research folder” I just found this pic:
 

 
This is a long time project and it is consuming a lot of time. I do not even start to make the beams for the lower deck sooo I´ve decided to “cut” a little bit the project Otherwise I´m not sure if I’ll end this someday!! Beside I do see logs where they are having lots of fun with smaller (but complex) projects. I need to move on. I started this on 2011…
 
Here´s my aim. ->The pic above about the HMS Diana showing one side completed and the other almost “nude”. The portside with all the gun ports open (no guns) the main wale and the planking above it and only three planks under. The starboard with the frames intact and cutting some of them as shown on the picture. I have been always much more interested on the structural issue rather than have a symmetrical and beautiful ship made.
 
Wish me luck. Any comments and suggestions will be appreciated of course.
 
Happy modelling and summer ahead!
 

 
Daniel.

Hola a todos! Hello All!
 
Hope July is treating all of you ok!
 
Finally I have almost complete the main wale... I´ve been planking and making the joinery for the gun ports at the same time. I have also started with the stern post. Let´s see how the work will come out in this another tricky part of the "building".
 
Here some pics,,,
 

 

 

 

 
And these are my first LD beams. It´s amazing that small camber on them.
 

 
Just a try. I couldn´t resist...
 

 
And here´s the upper counter rail. Instead of boiling it I left it on water (in 2lt bottle of coke i.e.) for 24h or more. Then I clamped it using a jig and let it dry for more than 3 days.
 

 

 

 
And that´s all for now...
 
Guy, That ship it´s called Franky Boy!
 
Richard, I´ll be posting more pdf´s soon. I just make them when I need them, If you need some specyfically on the stage you´re right now just ask it for. No problem at all. I do enjoy to work on CAD.
 
Hey Ray! It´s Sierra Vista close to Mesa Verde? I spent a whole year there, at Mesa Verde, back on ´92!
 
Best wishes!!
 
 
Daniel.

Hi Daniel,
 
was that your mien after the work at the gunports?
Great work

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build

I don't no what to say Karl. Outstanding craftsmanship.

Hello,
today I show you the carronade with a served rope.
The protection of the breeching was made ​​of a coated paper handkerchief.
It has a tarred look.

 

 

Hello,
thanks for the recognition of my work.
A couple of days later i can show you new results.
I hope you like my progress to the section model.
Looks now the pictures:

 

 

 

 

 
 

I have made and installed the waterways.  On this deck the waterway looks like a chair resting on its back.  To make the shape I took an old Dremel chisel blade and carved the shape into the end of the blade with thin cut-off discs.  The scraper was then cleaned up with a Swiss file.
 

 
I forgot to take pictures until I was almost finished, so I will describe the sequence.  I used drafting paper to make a template of the inside of the hull.  This was transferred to 5" thick stock and the segment was roughly cut out.  The waterway is only 4" thick but I made the stock over-thick in case I made an error with the scraper and gouged the surface.  The outer edge was then fit to the interior of the hull and the scarf was cut.  I used the scraper to scribe the inner edge of the waterway.  A sanding disc cut away the excess material on the inner edge and the scraper was used to form the top edge.  Various grits of sand paper smoothed everything out.  I was more concerned with a fair line on the inner edge since the spirketing will hide the outer edge of the waterway.  I started at the bow and worked aft.  After the first plank was installed, I made the next two planks, gluing them together at the scarf before installing them on the deck.
 

 
Finally, I made the aft plank.  The next three photos show the sequence of fabrication of the plank.
 

 

 

 
 
These photos show the waterway installed.