Mirabell61

Thanks for your words Patrick,
 
I`ve taken farewell from the large scale models some time ago. The ones I had were designed for a RC control device, the hardware I had from the sixties or seventies and some people asked me if it was self made, it was one of the first Robbe 2 channel devices. Then I was told that it was not allowed to opperate the appropriate frequencies any more, so it went to the electronic waste bin. Now no more large models, on top of that I do`nt have the space in the house any more. For building sofisticated interior like you do, I trust I would`nt have the patience....
 
Nils

Thank you Greg,
 
I need to do some more research to help myself on the decision track, and have an eye on a certain set of plans for a scratch build, more probably next week...
 
Nils

Patrick,
thanks very much for your words...
there are still the radio aerials to make, the nameplate, and the derrick cargo beams to be rigged. As the casing will also take some time to complete, I think I can do that simultaeously.
For the next project I have`nt made up my mind yet,
although there are many ideas spooking round in my mind and I would like to settle on the right decision, to stand it through.....
 
love the "Chebece 1750" , Karl (Jeronimo) is doing in the moment, (not an easy one !!)
or the Danish "Hjejlen, paddlesteamer", live museum ship
or the German "lightship Elbe 1"
or the British cutter "Alert" of 1777, (the uncompleted build log of MSW member Lee has given me a very strong inspiration some time ago....)
or the French "Le Canot Imperial" Napoleon`s oar-driven state bark
And it could just as well hapen, that something else strikes my mind on short term, which would possibly even overrule the others
 
Nils

Thanks for catching up Piet,
and for your compliment with the hoompa band.....
 
I`m just preparing for the production of the custom taylored glass casing. Think I`ll order the cut glass panes (4 mm glass thickness) from the glasser`s shop tomorrow, it takes about a week to get them...
For the design a have a little 1:1 dummy model of the casing bottom corner, in order to show the glasser where close tolerances are required for the cut.
 
Nils
 

the long casing profiles 12 x 12 mm come only in 90 cm length, so the four of them have to be shafted and the joint reinforced with 4 mm brass square tube, and glued together. The wooden frame will be stained in cherry tone and dull varnished, like the finished casing in the background
 

showing the number of elements that go into the casing
 

the entire 5-sided upper casing can be taken off the base, it will be secured in place with 6 slide pins
 

the slots for the glass are 4 x 4 mm and appr. 1mm clearance to the glass outside contour (compensation of later expected wood shrinkage)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

thanks very much for your word Jason,...
 
probably I`ll put the KWdG on display in my hobby room, together with the other models, thats not too bad. I have now agreement with the admiral that it can be set up in the living area, but there is absolutely no more adequate space, and she`s right there....
 
Nils

Just having fun with making and seeing ideas work out Keith,
you`re right with the bunch of time involved, but sometimes I ca`nt settle down if I do`nt see the results match the intensions yet...
 
Nils

Thanks very much for your kind comment John,
 
Nils

Many thanks John, Michael and Greg,
for your nice comments...
also thanks to the "likes"...
 
John,
again a new term, thanks a lot..
 
Michael,
I`m just trying to implement the pictures I have in mind..
 
Greg,
yes, agree, they look quite flimsy, but in worst case, anybody would be happy to get a place on those collapsibles..
Thanks for catching up with your recent looking in...
 
 
Nils

Rob,
thank you for your fine comment, I`m very pleased you like the boat outcome, as you have recently  been engaged with many good ideas and suggestions. Now its just the mass of repeatable work to be done to get all the boats in following the first sample ones....
The colapsible boats I have`nt begun yet, but my mind is thinking in this direction..(I borrowed some pics from the web, may be for Titanic or so...)
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 

Thank you very much Bob,
for your kind compliment...
 
the boats are taking me longer to do than I expected, but I trust it will be worth the effort afterwards
 
Nils

Update...
 
the first open port side boat has been set in place and rigged with the forward pulley. I think I`ll have the two first boats of each side in the open mode, as well as the third boats (also open), but they are a bit smaller, like on the actual ship. The blocks (3mm double sheave ) are out of Chuck`s production, I saved them up at the time he still was producing pear blocks in that size for this application.
All paint touch ups will be done after all the boats are rigged
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Tony,
thank you very much,
have not had much time at the table this weekend, but the lifelines are on...
 
Nils
 

Rob,
excellent looking solution with the boat covers.....
 
Nils

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.

Sorry about the long absence and a belated "Thank You" to Patrick. Sorry too that the pictures are not studio studies but they serve to show that things have moved forward. Also that I'm still alive and at work.
 

 
They're actually even further forward since these photos were taken.  I have painted the hull again and got the final finish I wanted. The draft marks and the Liverpool on the stern were challenging but I think I got acceptable results there as well.
 

 
Ignore the badly tailored appearance of number 5's aft coaming. The hatch wasn't "affixed" when the photo was taken and has been replaced with new work.
Currently working on mark 5 of the bridge structure and the last of the lifeboats. I seem to do more scrapping than building!
I hope to be back soon with better pics showing further progress.  Maybe I should get someone more competent and with better equipment to take the photos.

Thanks for your answer to the boat type Piet,
 
I once read that that the skilled indonesian boat builders of the actual Puginese Pinisi did`nt even need plans to build the ship...
 
Nils

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

Anchor Windlass - final
 
The final details have been added to the windlass.
 The capstan heads and hand wheels are after-market, the brake bands, hand cranks and other stuff are scratch.
 


 
 

Time to paint
 
Between “new house” chores and trying to hook a few more trout before the streams get too hot there hasn’t been much new with the model.
 
I did get the stack put together

and I scratched some “J” vents for the fuel tanks that will go along the bulwarks and the superstructures

I finally stopped stalling and broke out the airbrush and got to work on that. I chose Model Master's Ocean Gray since the early Liberty's were painted darker than Navy Haze Gray and given the scale effect this is what I was looking for. It has a little more sheen than I wanted but I'll be giving everything a coat of Dull Coat at the end so it should not be a problem.


 
With most of the big parts painted things should start moving along at a more respectable pace now.
 

Anchor Windlass
 
After a hectic 3 months we are now settled enough in the new house that I can break out the model and get started again.
 
As I said in my last post, I wanted to replace the kit-supplied windlass with a scratch one that would be more to scale with regard to height.
 
I made the bedplate, steam chest and pistons out of sheet, rod and I-beam styrene.
 
The main shaft and gear wheels are a combination of tubing, rod and a bag of watch gears I found on the internet.
 
 
Next up will be the capstan heads, brake controls and gear controls.

Thanks for your answer to the boat type Piet,
 
I once read that that the skilled indonesian boat builders of the actual Puginese Pinisi did`nt even need plans to build the ship...
 
Nils

You never can 'regress' into Dutch. You should know that
 
indonesian craft, that is an interesting choice. Little material available, I guess.
 
jan

Piet, you are regressing into Dutch ... probably because you build to many Dutch vessels

Yes Nils, you can try Buginese Pinisi or Bugis Hhinisi schooner. When I lived in Surabaya, Indonesia, (that was before the war with Japan) my father took me to the harbor where I saw the Makassar fishing boats and liked them already then. They are still being build today and all by hand too. We used to call most of the sailing boats a "prauw." Sorry for the misleading word that seems to date back to before yesteryear 
 
Cheers,
 
 

Thank you very much Piet,
for your nice words,
I have tried to look up the Buginese Prau(h)w you mentioned but found no results on the web, do you perhaps have a pic showing the ship type.... ?, I would like to learn...
 
Nils