Mirabell61

Thanks for your compliment Keith,
 
Nils

Thanks very much Gerhard,
 
the glass case will be nothing fancy, but large glass areas for good viewing from all sides, minimum frame thickness, and rigid enough for the bonnet to be taken off upwards. As the 4 mm thick glass brings quite some weight, it takes 2 persons to safely handle the bonnet, when settling it down on the brass positioning pins of the baseplate.
 
Nils

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

thanks for your catch up Martin,
 
yes, the amount of dust that can settle on a model is enormous, for that reason I work with preliminary plastic foil also during the building phase
 
Nils

Hi Ed,
 
many thanks for your words, I`m pleased, if it can provide the one or other idea. It will be the seventh casing I`ve made on this basis, and they are lasting for years already. The available display place is also a criteria to be considered. I use my small 1:1 dummy mock up corner for backward calculatuion... length display space, casing outer frame dimensions, u-slot in the beams, wood shrinkage clearance and determine the size and tolerances of the glass panels.
I issued a seperate case making thread some time ago, here at MSW, it may be of interest.....
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3011-how-to-do-maritime-suit-tailored-glass-cases-for-displaying-models/
 
Nils

Hi Patrick,
thanks for your words, but the credit for the wonderful built "Pandora" goes to member Marsalv
 
Nils

Hi Nenad,
 
nice start on the boat production...
 
Nils

B.E.
 
planking looks fine, trust it be a lovely hull after fairing /scraping the surfaces....
looking forward to your progress
 
Nils

Good work Toni, I love all those outcuts in your decks to enable views to the interior....
 
Nils

Hi Nenad,
 
nice start on the boat production...
 
Nils

Thanks very much Gerhard,
 
the glass case will be nothing fancy, but large glass areas for good viewing from all sides, minimum frame thickness, and rigid enough for the bonnet to be taken off upwards. As the 4 mm thick glass brings quite some weight, it takes 2 persons to safely handle the bonnet, when settling it down on the brass positioning pins of the baseplate.
 
Nils

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

thanks for your catch up Martin,
 
yes, the amount of dust that can settle on a model is enormous, for that reason I work with preliminary plastic foil also during the building phase
 
Nils

Hi Ed,
 
many thanks for your words, I`m pleased, if it can provide the one or other idea. It will be the seventh casing I`ve made on this basis, and they are lasting for years already. The available display place is also a criteria to be considered. I use my small 1:1 dummy mock up corner for backward calculatuion... length display space, casing outer frame dimensions, u-slot in the beams, wood shrinkage clearance and determine the size and tolerances of the glass panels.
I issued a seperate case making thread some time ago, here at MSW, it may be of interest.....
https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3011-how-to-do-maritime-suit-tailored-glass-cases-for-displaying-models/
 
Nils

Hi Patrick,
thanks for your words, but the credit for the wonderful built "Pandora" goes to member Marsalv
 
Nils

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

Mitbok,
 
your sanbaggers hull looks very authentic, well done !
Are you going to fit a catboat rig or a sloop rig ?
 
Nils

Good work Toni, I love all those outcuts in your decks to enable views to the interior....
 
Nils

B.E.
 
planking looks fine, trust it be a lovely hull after fairing /scraping the surfaces....
looking forward to your progress
 
Nils

B.E.
 
planking looks fine, trust it be a lovely hull after fairing /scraping the surfaces....
looking forward to your progress
 
Nils

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

Thank you everyone for the likes and comments.  Time to move on to the head.
 
This is an absolute birds nest of inter-related structures which appears daunting but (so far) is not horribly difficult if one fabricates and installs one piece at a time.  Sorry that there are no construction pictures but taking photos of 3-D objects while keeping everything in focus is beyond my simple camera.  The key to each structure is one word...template.  The lower cheek is constructed first.  Make a template in the horizontal plane.  On the plan, determine the total thickness of the cheek, remembering that there is a gentle curve upwards as the cheek follows the knee of the head.  Also remember that the hull drops away inferiorly so make the aft arm wider than per the plan.  Draw out the templated cheek on the wood, keeping the arms along the grain as much as possible.  Cut out the rough blank and offer it up to the hull until a good fit is achieved; It is still oversized in thickness at this point.  Next, draw the curve onto the side of the blank and shape it  with sanding discs.  The edge of the cheek has a molding cut into it.  Make another scraper (since none of the other shapes made so far are correct) and carefully scrape the shape onto the cheek.  Simple, right?  Actually, very tedious although not technically difficult.  The first one took four hours to complete.  On my model the starboard side is unplanked so there  is a gap between the frames and the knee corresponding to the thickness of the planking.
 
The upper cheek is made in similar fashion except that it must fay into the hair bracket with a scarf.  On Atalanta it is slightly thinner than the lower cheek at the aft end and tapers in width going forward.  That simply makes adding the molding even more fun because the fore arm molding must be cut free hand.  The hair bracket is simple to make after the cheeks are installed.  Again, make a template.  The molding is cut in free hand because the width continues to diminish on the ascending arm.  I used a dull #11 scalpel to gently impress the design.  Then a 2 mm V-chisel was used to cut the groove, changing direction as necessary to always cut with the grain.  Finally, it was finished with jeweler's files.  The scarf was cut into the hair bracket first.  This was then drawn onto and then cut into the already installed upper cheek.  The hair brackets were installed and the joint cleaned up so that the molding flows between the cheek and the hair bracket.  This can be seen when one compares the second and third photos below.  The total time invested so far on the headwork is two weekends.
 



 

 

Thank you very much B.E.,
for your very nice compliment, much appreciated, I`m very pleased you followed and liked this heritage liner.
Just finished a nameplate, that will go into the case that will probably begin in the coming week, when I get the glas panes
 
Nils
 

Thanks for your compliment Keith,
 
Nils

Thanks very much Gerhard,
 
the glass case will be nothing fancy, but large glass areas for good viewing from all sides, minimum frame thickness, and rigid enough for the bonnet to be taken off upwards. As the 4 mm thick glass brings quite some weight, it takes 2 persons to safely handle the bonnet, when settling it down on the brass positioning pins of the baseplate.
 
Nils