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Ras Ambrioso

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Everything posted by Ras Ambrioso

  1. Ras Ambrioso
    Great woodwork. Looks fantastic. Regarding the CA, I found that acetone tends to dissolve it. I have used to get metal pieces separated and to wipe set glue from my fingers. Don't inhale too much of it though!
  2. Ras Ambrioso
    My guess is that each wheel was independent which will be helpful in navigating the narrow Indian rivers. Making the wheels independent gets too complex to make in a static model. I opted to provide the wheels with independent hubs which makes them rotate independently but the eccentrics will be attached to the common shaft. This makes it easy in the static model. Furthermore, While building the hull, I fabricated the sponsons out of a solid piece of wood without taking in consideration the eccentric travel which required an open space below the deck surface. As I said before, poor planning. So now I have two wheels that will rotate independently from engines that will not be capable to complete a revolution. I plan to paint a dark space where the cranks are supposed to get below the deck surface. Again this is a static model going nowhere.😏
  3. Ras Ambrioso
    The paddle wheels are done and we are now working on the assembly. One of the the main bearings And the assembly presented to the sponsons. Now working on the eccentric cranks and the pitman connecting rods. Then finally add the paddles or what I have seen elsewhere called: the buckets. In September it will be one year since I started this model. It has been a wonderful experience and big lessons have been learned. Most important is to plan the order of the assembly to avoid interferences. In this model I added the railing way ahead of the bulk of the deck furnitures and now I am faced with having to redo it after damaging the fragile wires.
  4. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, The only information I had on this ship was an article in Model Boats in April 1982. I have tried to get the other two issues to no avail. The drawings from Ray Vine indicated that the paddles were gloss red and the frame gloss green but I decided to follow the USA practice of having the whole paddle wheel in red.
  5. Ras Ambrioso
    Work continues on the paddle wheels. Following is the first wheel assembled sans the paddles.
  6. Ras Ambrioso
    Wefalk, I love you research.
  7. Ras Ambrioso
    I admire your work. Count me in on this one.
  8. Ras Ambrioso
    Thank you guys. Your likes and comments keep me going
  9. Ras Ambrioso
    Continuing the paddle construction. I cut out the space between inner and outer circle. But, trying to maintain concentricity between both circles I left four radial pieces uncut. The spokes and wood hub were then added. Once that was completed , the holding webs were cutout and replaced withe rest of the spokes. And following is a rough look how the paddle wheel will look. What is shown above is a combination of port and starboard parts just for looks. The spokes on each side must be perfectly aligned in order to accept the paddle boards. I will be using the method that Cathead used in his Peerless build. TO BE CONTINUED
  10. Ras Ambrioso
    I knew about the feather wheels and that's why those wheels presented by Wefalk are so incredible perfect at a small scale. Just figure out how many minuscule pieces need to be fabricated. And all these by a guy 90 years old. BTW, I am 88 years old.
  11. Ras Ambrioso
    Wefalk, wow, those are paddles. But, unfortunately I am not at that level yet. Those wheels are absolutely perfect. Keith, The plans I have been using are from an old issue of the Model Shipwright. If you look at the plans at the beginning of my post you will see that they were designed for R/C. It shows using an electric motor and a worm gear drive for the paddles. The plans could be enlarged to something like 1/35 or even larger 1/24. They would make a beautiful sight in the ponds. If you are interested, you could send me your address and I will mail a set to you.
  12. Ras Ambrioso
    Zulu is almost complete. It is time to start the last big item: the paddlewheels. I have looked through the forum at different methods to fabricate these wheels and the one I like most was the one used by Cathead in his Peerless. But, Zulu was a ship made in England, then disassembled and shipped to India where it was put together. And the plans show the wheels made with metal rims. Thus, I decided to use a method similar to one I used to assemble my Bianchi motorcycle spoke wheels. The rims will be made from 1 mm styrene sheets and I will use some 1 mm brass square tubing. Following is the jig and the first rim before cutting it through. To be continued.
  13. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, I did exactly the same process by setting the two opposing sides on the board with the double sided tape. But my tape was not that strong and it made a mess when trying to get it through the saw. By using a little more wood I managed to make the parallel cuts. Been very interesting to explore all these fabrication methods.
  14. Ras Ambrioso
    I may have missed something in Keith"s jig so, after a lot of thinking, I figured how to be able to cut the notches for the steps at the same time on both opposite sides. Cutting the angled sides was a little troubling in my micro saw because of the extreme angle but I managed to do it using MicroMark's "taper jig". To change from right to left I disassembled the jig and turned it over. Pictures of the new ladder will follow soon. BTW, the reason I was doing another ladder is because the first one (post #64)came out one step short when I tried it the model. Sorry, senior moment😪
  15. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, I see, your jig actually carries the two sides at the same time on the same setting of the fence. Outstanding! Your method is now in my list for future ladders. This why I enjoy this forum so much.
  16. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, I when to looked at your Germania and I have to congratulate on that model The hull is exquisite. Regarding the ladders, Ken Kenny's system uses a long piece for the sides of the ladder and then sets the miter gage to the stair angle. The blade is set to half the thickness of the side strip. One side is cut and the miter angle is reversed and a new see of steps is done. The strip is advanced just like for making a box joint. This is the video: I have used this method several times and for the Amapá, I used card stock for the steps. Using Wefalk advise ,I shellac the card stock. In this scale I used 1/32 thick strips. I did some more work on the model as shown in the following photos. The piping forward is completed and the stack painted dark grey as per the forum's advice. I wish I have done that for the boiler too. The engine piping is complete. I finally, my latest micro work: the anchor hawser pipes: Thank you for your comments, advice and likes. I have learned so much watching you guy's work. Thanks.
  17. Ras Ambrioso
    A little more progress. I worked on the stairs from the main deck to the boiler deck. I used a system that I learned from Kevin Kenny's building of the Naparima. The method uses the mini saw with a kerf that matches the material for the steps, in this case, 1/32". Then I used jig to insert the steps. And this is the unfinished ladder. The finished stair will have handrails and a thinner profile.Then it will be painted
  18. Ras Ambrioso
    Words are not enough Wefalk.
  19. Ras Ambrioso
    Fantastic job. Congratulations
  20. Ras Ambrioso
    The boiler deck completed. Continue work on engine piping. Thank you for your comments and likes.
  21. Ras Ambrioso
    Ives, I make these models for my own pleasure and to share it with friends. My fun is in the research and of the planning. Then comes the challenge of the fabrication procedures and I am more a mechanic than a carpenter or a painter.
  22. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, I try to leave the brass shinny because it attracts the eye to the metal work. I enjoy working with brass specially the lathe work.
  23. Ras Ambrioso
    Keith, thanks for your suggestion. Regarding the lagging, I considered it. I did it on two of my R/C models with live steam propulsion. But, those models were at a much larger scale. At my scale with a 3/32" in pipe it will be quite a task. Since I started this forum my tolerance has improved from +/- 1.0 mm to 0.5. My hands and sight are reaching its limit. This is my Patricia at 1/12 scale: And this my African Queen at 1/24
  24. Ras Ambrioso
    Turned the winch around and asked my inspector to check the available work room. First attempt to solder the top of the anchor davit. Sorry to inform you that the first attempt failed but, with patience and steady hand, the job was done. And this is what the bow looks like. Next comes the hawseholes. In the meantime, I installed the railing both in both decks. Following is what the ship looks today. Next we will finish the steam piping aft and start the big job:the paddle wheels.
  25. Ras Ambrioso
    Eric, I am getting close to your stage in the build of our respective paddlewheel. My last challenge is the paddle wheel itself. My little Unimat cannot swing the 2 5/8" diameter of the outer tire of the wheel. You have given me a great idea of how to build mine. Thanks.

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