Ras Ambrioso
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Everything posted by Ras Ambrioso
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Wefalk, I love you research. -
I admire your work. Count me in on this one.
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Thank you guys. Your likes and comments keep me going
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Continuing the paddle construction. I cut out the space between inner and outer circle. But, trying to maintain concentricity between both circles I left four radial pieces uncut. The spokes and wood hub were then added. Once that was completed , the holding webs were cutout and replaced withe rest of the spokes. And following is a rough look how the paddle wheel will look. What is shown above is a combination of port and starboard parts just for looks. The spokes on each side must be perfectly aligned in order to accept the paddle boards. I will be using the method that Cathead used in his Peerless build. TO BE CONTINUED
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I knew about the feather wheels and that's why those wheels presented by Wefalk are so incredible perfect at a small scale. Just figure out how many minuscule pieces need to be fabricated. And all these by a guy 90 years old. BTW, I am 88 years old.
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Wefalk, wow, those are paddles. But, unfortunately I am not at that level yet. Those wheels are absolutely perfect. Keith, The plans I have been using are from an old issue of the Model Shipwright. If you look at the plans at the beginning of my post you will see that they were designed for R/C. It shows using an electric motor and a worm gear drive for the paddles. The plans could be enlarged to something like 1/35 or even larger 1/24. They would make a beautiful sight in the ponds. If you are interested, you could send me your address and I will mail a set to you.
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Zulu is almost complete. It is time to start the last big item: the paddlewheels. I have looked through the forum at different methods to fabricate these wheels and the one I like most was the one used by Cathead in his Peerless. But, Zulu was a ship made in England, then disassembled and shipped to India where it was put together. And the plans show the wheels made with metal rims. Thus, I decided to use a method similar to one I used to assemble my Bianchi motorcycle spoke wheels. The rims will be made from 1 mm styrene sheets and I will use some 1 mm brass square tubing. Following is the jig and the first rim before cutting it through. To be continued.
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Keith, I did exactly the same process by setting the two opposing sides on the board with the double sided tape. But my tape was not that strong and it made a mess when trying to get it through the saw. By using a little more wood I managed to make the parallel cuts. Been very interesting to explore all these fabrication methods.
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I may have missed something in Keith"s jig so, after a lot of thinking, I figured how to be able to cut the notches for the steps at the same time on both opposite sides. Cutting the angled sides was a little troubling in my micro saw because of the extreme angle but I managed to do it using MicroMark's "taper jig". To change from right to left I disassembled the jig and turned it over. Pictures of the new ladder will follow soon. BTW, the reason I was doing another ladder is because the first one (post #64)came out one step short when I tried it the model. Sorry, senior moment😪
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Keith, I see, your jig actually carries the two sides at the same time on the same setting of the fence. Outstanding! Your method is now in my list for future ladders. This why I enjoy this forum so much.
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Keith, I when to looked at your Germania and I have to congratulate on that model The hull is exquisite. Regarding the ladders, Ken Kenny's system uses a long piece for the sides of the ladder and then sets the miter gage to the stair angle. The blade is set to half the thickness of the side strip. One side is cut and the miter angle is reversed and a new see of steps is done. The strip is advanced just like for making a box joint. This is the video: I have used this method several times and for the Amapá, I used card stock for the steps. Using Wefalk advise ,I shellac the card stock. In this scale I used 1/32 thick strips. I did some more work on the model as shown in the following photos. The piping forward is completed and the stack painted dark grey as per the forum's advice. I wish I have done that for the boiler too. The engine piping is complete. I finally, my latest micro work: the anchor hawser pipes: Thank you for your comments, advice and likes. I have learned so much watching you guy's work. Thanks.
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A little more progress. I worked on the stairs from the main deck to the boiler deck. I used a system that I learned from Kevin Kenny's building of the Naparima. The method uses the mini saw with a kerf that matches the material for the steps, in this case, 1/32". Then I used jig to insert the steps. And this is the unfinished ladder. The finished stair will have handrails and a thinner profile.Then it will be painted
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The boiler deck completed. Continue work on engine piping. Thank you for your comments and likes.
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Ives, I make these models for my own pleasure and to share it with friends. My fun is in the research and of the planning. Then comes the challenge of the fabrication procedures and I am more a mechanic than a carpenter or a painter.
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Keith, I try to leave the brass shinny because it attracts the eye to the metal work. I enjoy working with brass specially the lathe work.
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Keith, thanks for your suggestion. Regarding the lagging, I considered it. I did it on two of my R/C models with live steam propulsion. But, those models were at a much larger scale. At my scale with a 3/32" in pipe it will be quite a task. Since I started this forum my tolerance has improved from +/- 1.0 mm to 0.5. My hands and sight are reaching its limit. This is my Patricia at 1/12 scale: And this my African Queen at 1/24
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Turned the winch around and asked my inspector to check the available work room. First attempt to solder the top of the anchor davit. Sorry to inform you that the first attempt failed but, with patience and steady hand, the job was done. And this is what the bow looks like. Next comes the hawseholes. In the meantime, I installed the railing both in both decks. Following is what the ship looks today. Next we will finish the steam piping aft and start the big job:the paddle wheels.
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Eric, I am getting close to your stage in the build of our respective paddlewheel. My last challenge is the paddle wheel itself. My little Unimat cannot swing the 2 5/8" diameter of the outer tire of the wheel. You have given me a great idea of how to build mine. Thanks.
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Wefalk, you are absoutely right. The smoke box is larger than the plans. I needed to make a transition between the round stack and the smokebox. This was a little too complicated to make the transition between a rectangular section and a circle. My solution to the problem was to make a flange section on top of the rectangular smokebox as shown below. In addition I used a 1/2" pipe with an OD of 9/16". Then I added I/16" around the hole which increased the width of the smoke box another 1/16". And then I did not taper the smoke box as it is shown in the section below. As a result I lost a total of 11 mm of deck space were used. My solution to this problem was to extend the winch base by the 11 mm giving me sufficient clearance to set the winch where it would be operable by the crew. I remember my engineering school time when our instructors repeated to avoid "cumulative tolerance error". The added base for the winch. And here is the dry fit of the winch. Now, don't tell me that the cranks will be impossible to move. The winch is supposed to have the cranks forward. The winch is not glued down yet. 😏
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More progress. Working on the anchor winch. Having a space problem as the boiler chimney flue came out a little bigger than expected. But that is the challenge of scratch building with shacky hands and poor vision. This is the start of the anchor pulley. Lots of chips. and then the finished product. The complete pulley assembly. Finally all the parts, The two stand sides are from the etched leftovers from a previous model. And this is the finished product. Maybe not yet since I forgot the manual winches cranks. (See the drawing)😇 And to have a little fun, I made a wood pile to stand by the boiler. Nothing on the plans indicated what fuel was used to fire the boiler. Could have been oil fired but, with the ship being build for the Indian rivers, I figured that wood would be the fuel.
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Just found your new build and will religiously follow. Hail to the Master.
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Eric, thanks for your comments. I also find you build very instructive specially your research and the discussions that follow. This is why I like this forum when we share our experiences and learn from each other.
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