Ras Ambrioso

I was itching to start work with the lathe and, I was also figuring out the piping of the boiler/engine system. Right at the start I noticed the large number of valves that would be required. I counted a minimum of 15. So, I am going to bring up the lathe and start making these tiny valves. The fun starts now. Lathe setup. Drilled the stock to the pipe size, and then machined the body. Then I will cut a disc and attached it to the body with a proper size stem. On this valve I started with some old 3/8" rod stock. But now I found the 3/32" rod that will make the machining easier. Stay tuned.

Valeriy, I used brass mini nails that are sold by Micromark in the US. These nails are sold to temporally fasten planking strakes in the model frames. I have a supply of them. They have round heads and I set them on holes filled in the door but leave a little of the stem out. I also used other sizes using sewing pins. Now I am trying to figure out how to made the lever type door knobs to use on the other doors of the model. Thanks for your comments and likes. Any ideas?

Outstanding work. Olympia is one of my favorite ships. You have done a splendid job. Congratulations

Completed the rest of the superstructure. A few little details were left out since I am anxious to start building the propulsion system. Dry fitting all the parts, I assembled the ship. Then, started work on the boiler. First, the smoke box. Then the stack. Followed by the boiler. And this is the dry fitted boiler. I have also been following Cathead's build of the Peerless. Very interesting and informative. As a mechanical engineer, whose work was mainly in the energy systems, I enjoy the debates about insulation, expansion loops, superheaters and steam traps on the piping. But at the scale I am working it is hard to include all the minuscule parts that would make the piping correct. Thanks for watching and I enjoy your comments.

calt4, welcome to my build. It is a lot of fun to scratch-build a model. In addition to figure out how to fabricate a piece you also have to figure the right sequence for the assembly is also important. For instance, in this model, I assembled the walls of the cabins and then have to open the windows on the finished cabin. It would have been easier to build each wall independently and then assemble when completed.

Little more progress. I didn't like the way the passenger cabins came out while using plain walnut strips as shown in my previous post. According with the information I had from the article in Model Boats, these cabins were built in mahogany; so, I bought already scribed basswood boards and fabricated the new cabins. I used a mahogany stain and the results can be seen in the photo, shown here on top of the planked boiler deck. I used the same type of pre-scribed board to do the main deck and the boiler deck planking. I also developed a method to make the windows. Basically, I drew the them in card stock and glued the minute frames to the cardboard and then cut the opening. The window was cut oversize from the card and glued to the opening in the walls of the cabin. You can see the the card stock in the inside walls of the cabin above. The window glass (acrylic) will be attached to the inside of the frame. I used a similar method to make the varios doors. The finished doors will be glued to the outside planking in the cabin. Forgot the scale match but the window is 12 mm wide. The doors had a similar treatment. Completed the planking in the main deck. Have already finished the roof but have no pictures yet. Getting closer to the mechanicals.

Just for your information I am showing the way the main cabin looked with my improvise planking. your comments will be appreciated.

A little more progress. Painted the hull and completed the lower cabins. Getting ready to start the main deck planking. Had a little trouble with the main cabin in the boiler deck. Have tried several methods to display the mahogany planked walls using very thin strips. The results don't look good since the grain shown is so apparently out of scale. Decided then to fabricate the cabin using striped basswood pieces.

A very Merry Christmas to you and yours. And another hurrah to your work

Beautiful work Nils.

Being quite busy with the upcoming holidays but managed to add a little progress to the build. I have been trying to fabricate all the superstructure prior to starting the metal work on the boiler, piping and engines. Following is some of the progress to date. Boiler deck planking dry fit. Thanks for following.

I agree with Keith. I had a lot of rough spots on my first planked hull (Emma Berry) but it made boat look like it was built on a short budget. It added to the looks of the finished boat.

Keith, I just found your post and I am hooked. These yachts represent the best looking boats of the transition between sail and steam. I will be following you and wish the best on your surgery. Ras

Happy to see you starting another masterpiece. I used the half hull method on Amapá. Will follow your progress.

Being a little busy these last weeks with not much time to work on Zulu. But, a little progress has been done. This is the crew cabin Started the roof structure. If you notice the dirty surface in the roof blame it on one of my buddies in the shop. While I was out he came in an used the sander but forgot to turn on the vacuum system. When I came back there was a layers of microscopic black walnut dust all over the benches. Took us a whole day to clean the mess. I tried cussing at him but he is a preacher. The roof skylight gave me headaches. The sky light has seven ports 3/16" diameter on the 3/8" wide on each side. Started using basswood only to break the strip while drilling. Then I used some cherry leftover but the grain was perpendicular to the strip so during the drilling several holes broke. So I made another strip using poplar with the grain properly align and success. Thanks for following.

Made a jig to determine the height of the cabins in the main deck. Presented the boiler deck and located the holes for the deck's posts. Mechanical room is also dry fitted. Discovered another booboo. The opening cut on the deck for the hold does not allow sufficient space from the boiler's front to the galley cabin. Since I intend to have the the the hatch covered, I closed the open space and moved the hatch location aft. The photo also shows the mechanical room. There is very little data about this type of vessel but, based on the year it was built, I have assumed the they had electricity aboard. This cabin houses the electric generator and the mechanical shop. The steering gear is located above on the boiler. Following is is view with the boiler deck and the roof. The ribs on top of the roof will create the camber once installed on the bottom. Following is the main deck with the fabricated cabins. Next will be the detailing of the cabin windows and doors and the covering of the hold hatch. Then the priming of the hull and the installation of the deck planking. After the main deck is completed I will start metal fabrication of boiler, engines, tanks and piping so that the equipment gets installed on deck before proceeding to the upper levels. The fun continues and thanks for following.

Chris I still have the Spitfire kit and your instructional V-108 but haven't have the resolve to get started in this new phase of our hobby. Following you will help me build enough confidence to carry on. Your card models are exceptional.

Beautiful application of modern technology. I feel sorry that now I am past this kind of tooling to pursue our hobby. Congrats.

Thanks Valeriy you have been a great inspiration to me.

Back to the workbench. Fabricated the sponsons for the paddlewheel out of mahogany, since they will be the support of the paddlewheel axel, and trimmed the sub-deck around them. Sections of the deck will be planked but, the bases for the engines, pumps, boiler and the coamings for the hold hatch, will have to be placed prior to planking. I feel that equipment doesn't look good directly over the wood planks. Thus, I am going to install these items prior to planking. It is amazing to me the amount of ahead planning we must do in these scratch built. So my plan is to basically get all the deck equipment in place before proceeding with superstructures. Started by making a wood mockup the engine. NOTE: the large 1/12 scale drawings was reduced to 1/48 scale. Dimensions shown of the drawings correspond to the larger drawing. I also fabricated the sump for the condensate tank between the engines. After installation of all the coamings and raised bases, I will start the fabrication of the mechanicals in metal, except for the boiler's main body which will be a made from plastic pipe.

Amazing, at 1/160 scale is also incredible the amount of realistic detail you have included in this model.

Wefalck and Ives, thanks for your comments. This paddleboat design has been in my mind for years. Finally, I got it started. However, things didn't go well at the start. The Sarik prints were huge and the calculated scale was 1/18 rather than the advertised 1/24. Since I wanted the model not to exceed 30 inches in length, I had to have them reduced in a print shop. Thanks God for the new technology. With the new plans at the right scale (1/48), I started the build by cutting down the bottom of the hull shape in a piece of 1/4" ply. Then, fabricated the frames taking the dimensions from the plans. Installed the frames using a centering dowel and, using the drawings as a template, cut the hull sides and glued them to the frames. Used 1/2" square balsa to fill the bilge line between frames. After both sides were installed, I started the bilge rounding using our bench belt sander. The round bilge was 1/2" quarter round and I had to sand down both the hard ply flat bottom and the soft balsa inserts. The sander is only 18"long and the hull is 22"so, I could not line up the whole hull on the sander. And that is when disaster hit. You can see below where the bilge line started waving. And this was at the beginning of the sanding. I could not maintain the equal pressure required to sand ply and balsa since I had to straddle the hull across the sander. But, since I have all the time in the world to play and I am building this ship for myself, I started a new hull and this time decided that the bottom would be flat, 1/8" thick and with just a little rounding (not the scale 1/2"). And following is the progress as of today. And the deck is dry fit. Thanks for following and I appreciate your comments PS: I am saving the twisted hull. I may do a deferent project with it. The gunboats in the Nile comes to mind 🤔

Just found your build Nils. Great job on John Wayne's steamer. I loved that movie and look forward to your build. BTW, in your photos the ship looks much larger than what I would suspect HO gage was. Seems you are emulating Wefalk with the miniatures. Good work.

After completion of my B-17 and 1927 motorcycle models I am back to shipbuilding. Since I got more projects in my head than the lifetime left I have decided in building two projects at the same time. I expect to work in alternate weeks. The first one is this version of the paddle steamer Zulu and then I plan to do another bass profile on a 1/48 scale Spitfire. Going back to my times in The Netherlans I did a lot of work with live steam. Built a couple of R/C controlled live steam boats and always wanted to build a steam powered paddle boat. The problem was that these boats were quite large and required building at a very small scale that made it difficult for me because of my own limitation to produce parts at a very small scale. Using the forums. inspiration I have been able to go from a tolerance of 0.5 mm to tolerance of 0.25 mm which allows me to do acceptable detailing down to 1/64 scale. In doing the research I found this boat that at 90 feet OL will fit nicesely with my capabilities. The research on our site brought to my attention Kishmusl's 3D CAD model of Zulu. I already had previous information from an old issue of Model Boats (April 1982) that was written by Ray Vine and had a miniature copy of the drawing. I contacted Sarik and purchased a copy of the plans. When I received the package, I found 5 sheets of details at a scale of 1/18 making the model over 50 inches in length. I went to my local blueprint shop and got it reduced to 1/48 scale. A little background on the ship. Using the internet I did not found much regarding this particular ship. The closest one was this one built in 1916 by Alley & MacLellan in the Sentinel Works, Glasgow. The first owner was the War Office-Inland Transport Department with the name S-3 and it was in operation in the Nile and in Mesopotamia until 1932 Following is a partial description, by Ray Vine, of the plans: Quote History of the Prototype This type of boat was predominately used in America, Burma and India. Used in the latter two countries operated by the Irriwaddi Flotilla Company. Built in Glasgow most of these steamers were sent in parts and assembled in Rangoon. The steamer boilers were built in UK and dispatched as a complete unit ready for installation in the finished boat. The engines were shipped separately. As can be seen from the plan, the boat had a very shallow draft which, of course, is essential where steamers have to operate in the shallows and creeks of the Irriwaddi. Due to the shallow draft, which could be as little a 1'-8", it was necessary to position the boiler right forward to preserve trim, counterbalancing the weight of the engines and the paddle wheels aft. The tall funnel too is necessary to induce draught to the boiler. A forced draught installation being omitted to keep the weight of the machinery down to the minimum. These boats also operated in the Mandalay-Thabeitkyin route. End of Quote. More information is shown on the Steam Boats Museum website (steamboats.com) with pictures of another Zulu model in 1/24 scale. I would appreciate any additional information you may have on the history of these useful vessels.

Thanks a lot Dan and all the other followers that inspire me. Love this forum🙂 Ras