modeller_masa

Oops, sorry. She is 10 years old nephew.

Correct. The magnet works well. 😆 Roden copied the airfix 1/32 kit and down-scaled it. Its structure is exactly same, and became more difficult due to thoughtless down-scaling. There are many unmatched joints and too slim parts that easily breakable. I replaced the broken parts to brass sheet or covered with CA glue. It is one of the worst kit I've ever seen, so I would like to recommend latest Miniart 1/35 kit if you are interested in the london bus. Unfortunately, there is no kit based on the world's first omnibus from France. 🤔

You should have seen her confused face. 😆 When the girl breaks and opens the frame, this kit will be 'complete'.

Thanks, Yves. I'm also inspired by another artwork, and there are some pre-painted kits on market. https://mmzone.co.kr/album/showcase.php?dbname=gallerymain&id=53935 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/squadron-sqm7002-p-47d-thunderbolt--1116572

Thanks for watching. It was really funny project. 😆

Thanks for watching.

I made chimney stovepipes using 4mm brass tubes. Also, I made chimney caps using 3D printer. I wasn't sure to cut brass sheet circularly without error. I holded them with 0.35mm brass tripods using epoxy glue. This color is too darker than I expected, but seems ok. I mixed blue and brown to be bronze green. Maybe I should have mixed white lacqure a little bit. While I was drilling holes, one of chimney was broke. I'll remove it and make it again. Most of chimneys are done. I referred to real pictures when I designed, and I like my result. 👍

Thanks, Ekis! Your knowhow really helps me a lot. I understood that you spent tons of time and effort on sanding tiles, and weathering is one of many improving ideas. There was no easy way to achieve such great result. 😌 I'll apply these tips as much as possible to be more realistic.

Hello, Egilman. Nice to see you again. I'm considering the Ekis' method. He used raw rough tiles with weathering technique. My precisely aligned tiles are very good, in itself. The result looks like printed roof of commercial doll house just I wanted. Every blocks has 10.0 x 5.5mm size. Unfortunately, the post processing is painful and takes lots of time. It takes about 1 minutes per each block, but it is enjoyable when I paste each tile on roof thanks to the standardized size. On the contrary, raw tiles doesn't steal much time. it is a bit annoying to paste tiles due to uneven size, but it ultimately saves 2~3 times more than aligning every tile. The order side is finished and polished, but chaos side is not. You may think that these photos are fine, but in real world, gaps between tiles and shadows is much visible, and it degrades overall qualities although entire exterior at long distance is ok. I can't satisfy with the raw tiles. The reason I pasted rough tiles is that Ekis successfully managed it with weathering technique. His weathering technique covered weakness of raw tiles, and made buildings more like impressive medieval ruin. I'm considering to apply weathering to half of this building. My only issue is lack of time... 🤪

Good to see again, Old Collingwood and Waitoa. Here is another great news. Ekis finished his masterpiece work on this February. As I said, I stick to an angle and lines because of uniformity, so I'm making every roof tile all same size. However, his splendid work with raw and rough tiles shakes my decision. It seems more natural expression for medieval buildings!

Hello! Long time no see. I'm happy with good news that people are overcoming the COVID19.🧡 It's been an year since 2020 deadline, and there are three weeks before 2021 deadline. 😱 I'm rushing my job, and hope to give the present sucessfully this year. Tiling roofs is a repeated task, so I will upload photos when I reach a noticeable step. (It should be within 3 weeks!)

Hello. I have question about a component of rope stropped blocks - grommet. https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/02/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm https://forum.game-labs.net/gallery/image/559-32-lb-carronade/ I would like to make (copy) the USS constitution's rope stropped blocks. (See the left corner of the picture.) To complete the rope stropped blocks, I prepared 4 components. a) 3D printed double block (2.7mm x 3.1mm x 2.9mm) b) metal thimble extracted from accesories c) 3 stranded thicker rope (Gutermann Mara 120, about 0.60mm) d) raw thread (Amann serafil fine 300, about 0.10mmm) I would say that this video explains well for non English speaker. According to the block manual, the next step is making a grommet that I stuck. I found this video is quite useful, but also found that it is not valid for scale model because of small size. Is there any way to make genuine scale size grommet for rope stropped blocks? I stuck at 7mm diamter size rope grommet. (right) I think it is almost impossible without special tools or machines. I searched and found more common ways such as color enameled copper wire or cut & knots. I cut the edge of the rope and glued epoxy bond (left) It works well, and the only issue is that it is not genuine rope stropped block. Here are some examples of model techniques. (Metal wire) Roger Pellet wrote an alternative method of simple rope grommet using wire. I tested his alternative method with threads. (He used wire.) I would say that this is more likely a served grommet if thread is used instead of wire. Thread can't keep spiral shape, so its final shape is ugly. I want to catch both external appearance and internal structure of rope stropped blocks. Have anyone make half inch size thread grommet successfully before? If not, I'll follow the wire guides... I add great topics that had same question. http://modelboatyard.com/stropping.html And this. The older posts I added have some interesting ideas that hiding cut & glues under neck thread. I'll try all the solutions.

Now I knew an original form of a toy I played! I played and made 'science box' series which seems very similar to the Gilbert erector set series. Amazing. 😍 (example picture)

Plastick kit was dominant model hobby in South korea when I was a child and it is still be. I remember that I made my own diorama toolkit box which included colored dusts, glues, bonds, and pliers to assemble war vehicles and express battlefield. I found the toolbox recently, and extracted some useful things such as dried enamel paint and pliers. Resin bonds are gone, but enamel paints works agains after I refilled white spirits a little bit.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carronade I referred the HMS Victory's 68 pounder carronade. Of course, the kit has no spare blocks and rigging threads, so I decided to buy them at local hobby shop. Looks like the artesania 3mm double block is only option I can buy directly in Seoul... Wait... ...... I decided to make my own double block using 3D printer. I read some DIY double block guides on internet, and immitated them. After some trials and errors, I successfully copied an original double block will be used for sail rigging. Estimated expense is 22 cents. I made simple jig for painting the transparent 3d printed blocks. The most important thing is thread. I used 0.20mm nylon thread. It is stiff and has no fuzz. It holds blocks well and keeps them clean while I spray lacquer paint. The size is 2.90 x 3.70 x 3.10mm, and its shape is more realistic than stock double block. 😉 I can make any size at hundreds times cheaper price. When I buy metal lathe and get 1mm brass rollers, I'll make full detailed blocks. I printed additional single blocks for the future rigging. And then, I made cannon stand which is inspired from HMS Victory's 68 pounder carronades. I'll use two kind of threads for cannon rigging as upper picture shown. I'm still having difficulties with controlling the Domanoff PL4-4 machine. It is sensitive machine...

I slightly fixed windlass to be more realistic. I liked the matt black colored chain, but its size (4.40mm x 3.40mm) is not realistic. So, I bought new antique color chain. (2.00 mm x 1.70 mm) Too much exaggerated expression looks cheap. The manual doesn't show anchors' design, so I copied another schooner's design. Insufficient manual made me to study cathead. I had to research what kind of cathead is in her. I'm not sure it's correct... I made new 3 stranded rope with Gutterman Mara 120 thread. Found that it's not a time to rig anchors. 🤔 Glued them with epoxy bond. The next and final deck accessory is cannon. Of course, the manual omits explanations on the cannon's rigging and stand. I'll refer to the USS Constitution's 32 pound carronade which seems to be the most similar. And then, bowsprit, masts, rigging, and sails. 😀

I bought an upgraded version of the wireless compressor. Its price is about $50. The white toggle switch is power button. This is power port. It comes with USB cable. Its battery time is about half hour, but I can use it while in charging. The reason it is called second generation of wireless compressor is that it has pressure sensor inside. The first and cheaper version has no pressure sensor, so they blow air always. If you use it with regular airbrush, the inner pressure will increase till the end! To avoid the design failure and potential breakdown of compressor motor, they use modified airbrush which has single action lever only. It is possible to use conventional or masterpiece airbrush with the old wireless compressor, but you may need to turn on and off power switch each time. https://serviceapi.nmv.naver.com/flash/convertIframeTag.nhn?vid=2AEC7BDA593EDACD62AA5DC5E934FEA3BB71&outKey=V125363b07846d87f5ce329717e6f14f6a6fa3b6897472869472529717e6f14f6a6fa&width=740&height=416 (I took a video.) This new version has pressure sensor and turns off automatically when pressure reaches at certain level. With the sensor, I can use it like usual huge air compressor. Another benefit of this mini compressor is low noise. 55 dB means your family won't wake up in the middle of night. Drawback is low pressure. its maximum pressure with Infinity CR2 is about 0.05 Mpi = 7 Psi which is barely acceptable for fine lacquer particle. Such low pressure is not suitable for acrylic paints that requires 0.15~0.20 Mpi = 21~30 Psi. I'll use it for lacquer painting or cleaning.

Sorry for wrong post. I misunderstood a concept of this device and performed reckless modification. I checked all the manual and description, and found that this is a special machine. His manual is very compact, but very dense. I shouldn't have skip some sentences. I believed that this machine can do anything because of the most expensive price, and the self illusion made me to modify it to be an universal machine. I was yelling that my new motor boat is not flying, and was welding wings. 😂 I followed the instructions, and (heavily modified) Domanoff PL4-4 works pretty well in that way. Most issues I encountered above were out of manual, and some good results I considered as a beginner's luck were as instructed. Equal tension on supply bobbins is a bit frustrating, but I believe I can manage it with simple tool such as spring balance. It is inconvenience as wefalck said, but I want to stick to manual and learn skills now. Thanks again for hearing my pointless complaints patiently. I won't do this next time by reading manuals carefully. The wood bold with R-clip is only valuable result from this project. It works with Domanoff SM4 serving rope machine idealy. I'll report it to Alexey. --- wefalck, I thought about multiple spindle motor-computer driven device. It can count every twist and strength of tension in theory. I think it seems like 3D printer.

As Cleek said, it has felt inside to give smooth friction, but I would say that it is mechanically insufficient. Since I added screw tension on supply bobbin, it rotates like a jammed roller. (source: https://www.compadre.org/nexusph/course/Friction ) It can be explained by static and kinnetic friction. Threads have elasticity like rubber band, so cohesive force breaks the maximum static friction point. Unfortunately, it can't continue to draw following thread at low speed and stop again. I would say that the bumpy bobbin happens remarkably at lower speed. As I increase winding speed, it runs much smoother and makes better ropes. Running Domanoff's machine at slow speed with silence may cause worse result than at faster speed. Sometimes small businesses don't update minor changes on product manual. Samething happened when I bought the Domanoff SM4 and PL4-4. It is true that I neglected official manuals because I thought the instruction movies are outdated. Now i'm in trouble, so I take your advice and will read all the manuals from the beginning. In addition, I'm a shy person that usually don't ask to manufacturer, but I'll try. 😖 The vibration problem is not significant and Domanoff managed it well. The biggest noise comes from the green box according to my experience. If I change the gear to timing belt, I may be able to decrease 10 dB noise. 1. I think I assembled well when I received demounted gears. I'm sure that your machine is more quiter than mine because it is rubber band driven machine. I have long term plan to replace all the gears into pulley and timing belts. 2. You're correct. I misread a manual at first and surprised at bumping vibration. All 4 bobbins and bolts must be mounted when 4 or 3 strands works. But omitting with 2 strands works is ok. 😉 (Filled- ( ) - Filled - ( ) ) 3. I need more words to emphasize the importance of tension control on supply bobbin... 4. I saw that Domanoff's sample thread has the core thread, and its function is kind of adhesive to make a shape as you said. Interesting and difficult concept. 😂 5. Thanks for great link! It is great to know that I can move the bars. I was always curious why he made the 'windpoints'. I planned to remove them and make new solid post at first. 🤨 6. Yes. Only one thread I own is right twist thread, so I don't mix it with other threads. I hope 'real' ropes use only left twist threads. You gave me huge helps! I'm sorry I made you leave long answer. I should have asked to Alexey. (DMC deltelles 80, Cotton 100%, Ecru color, 3 strands) It is still far from the art of rope, but barely acceptable condition in my opinion, so I go back to la recouvrance for now. I'll update a modification log when I add more functions in near future. Thanks very much for useful comments, wefalck, Cleek.

You got a point. It was my next trouble immediately encountered, and it almost drove me to despair. It is very difficult to maintain same tension with the bolt tension system. Here are some tips I found. (1) Tighten all the bolts as much as possible. (Just below the cutting level) It usually works well with strong threads such as serafil polyester thread. (2) Do a massage after rope making is done. The massage means twist and untwist all the wire slightly. It spreads the 'waves' evenly. Domanoff's system is only half meter size while conventional ropewalk requires several meters of railway, so the finished rope may needs to be massaged separately while the other ropes made by different ropewalks may be massaged simultaneously. I'm still fighting with the issue. It is a bit frustrating - especially the massage takes too much time. I started to make pretty good ropes, but want to make them more flawlessly. I'll upload a post when I find better way or modify the feed bobbins to get even tension.

While I was investigating malfuntioning, I found that I missed key factor to run ropewalk. Tension must be tight to get a firm result. I planned to add tension control system to the right direction only, but it had to be bidirectional strong tensions... At first, I tried to reinforce the wood bolt R-clip with washer, but it didn't help because the bobbins need delicate tension control. They should have not tight and not loose tension. Probably the best tension control device is this. However, I can't add it to Domanoffs' because it needs extra space. Domanoff's bolts save spaces and relatively simple. I decided to use another bolts to get tension for now and postponed additional (huge) modification till next months. Looks like I finally read Domanoff's manual correctly. I'm running it at 0.5 Drive speed which is very slow and quiet. (The threads are Amann Serafil 300(200/2), 10 Tex, poly 100%.)

I finished to modify PL4-4. I reused most parts from stock and spares, so it didn't cost a lot. I can control all the system with one hand. Some parts like this long screw thread were hard to get, so I connected two common bolts. To use the bolts, I cut the bolt head with Proxxon table saw and HSS metal blade. It was extremely difficult and dangerous. It scattered sparks all over the places and it literally melted down. 😨 In addition, I changed the problematic stock bobbin holding mechanism to my new idea. I made wood bolts and R-clips with fun. 😉 The stock metal bolts had many issues. (1) 11.5 times heavy weight (2) screw thread causes jam frequently. (3) It takes long time to load and release bobbins. (About 30 seconds.) (4) A bit difficult. New wood bolt with R-clip solved all the problems. (1) Reduced weight stress (2) Much less jam (3) 5 seconds quick release and lock. (4) Super easy. (5) Cheap. I ran a test with cheap cotton thread. I added long middle area to check working thread easier and to prepare additional tension control system in the future. This is a desirable condition according to a manual... If a left drive rotates too fast or right bobbin stops to wind, the thread will cut within seconds. In this case, a left drive rorates too slow or a right bobbin runs too fast. It is making useless loose rope. Thanks to a slow bobbin speed mod, I can run a left drive 10 times slower than before which means I can run ropewalk at night without fear. Also, I can set and record bobbin winding speed from 8 to 100 which is clearer than previous analog knob. I'll replace the left drive motor to digital system like the bobbin. I finally satisfy with my new gadget and can be sure that it will produce any kind of rope. It's time to go back...... What was I making? 🤔

I designed new frame to install the new bobbin winding system. It needs more space. Also, I added space for soundproof shelter It is all I can do for now. I need some bolts to finish the mod.

I learned new word that my pedal switch is called momentary switch. I may need non-momentary knee switch for longer work.

You're absolutely right. I'm using foot pedal switch, and it is 100 times better than controlling knob.