modeller_masa

The drill bits for PCB circuit board are the best accurate drills you can get, but its length is short. Even cheapest $1.00 10 bits set is fine. You can find wide range from 0.10, 0.15, 0.20mm to 2.80, 2.90, 3.00mm. I have all 10 of them. Buy the best collet when you need better one. Never buy cheap collet. I heard that a collet from Swiss is the best for jewelry, but it depends on nation and area.

Hello, I made a small tool for small scale ship models such as 1/350 and 1/700 scale with photo etched parts. It is a CA glue station that automatically opens and closes the lid. When I built several 1/700 ships, I faced some issues regarding CA glues. They are easily degenerated by moisure in the air. Also, openning and closing a lid of bottle every time is annoying. In addition, the glue bottles are not convenience. The bottles are easy to spill, and narrow neck interrupts the lid's brush. Ultimately, I had to dump huge amount of degenerated sticky CA glue with the bottle. I bought some small bottles with brush to overcome the demerits, but it helped me a little. I dream of fully automated lid CA glue bottle. I dream of CA glue bottle protected from moisture. I dream of wider bottle neck for comfortable work. I got an idea from educational sample project, 'Smart trash bin' for Arduino curcuit board. I purchased relatively cheaper 'smart trash bin set', and modified the parts a little bit. I used a pen spring to give a tension to a lid. The Arduino is a very common programmable board that children can play with it. I downloaded the source code from here and modified timing to 10 seconds. https://github.com/daveqin/Smart-Trash-Can-Project I also made slide holder for attaching and dettaching CA glue bottle flawlessly. The mechanism should hold the bottle tightly against shock from the closing lid. I usually use an enameled wire for 1/700 photo etched parts. It is cheap and I can minimize an amount of CA glue. This small moisture absorber will prevent moisture and extend life of CA glue in a bottle. When I go to a bed or finish a project, I eject a bottle from slide holder and close it securely for long period storage. These are my tools for photo etched parts. I hope my new tool reduces stress caused by CA glue. Thanks for watching.

Thanks Dave, I'll keep build log simple. You finished the NRG HHP kit. It is excellent choice. My last wooden ship project was also NRG HHP kit. Some frames are higher or lower than the other frames. They may be how was made, but it can be an cutting mistake in most case. It happens frequently due to many reasons such as machine error, changing materials, etcs. After I checked manual and tested other nearby interfering parts, I decided to fix them. Frame 9 and 10 is slightly lower than the others, so I let a small piece of wood. Frame 11 is higher, so I cut inside a little bit using 1.0mm electric drill. I set the frames to match the upper deck = No. 22 part. However, one frame was made to be higher than others. It is the last frame, 14. I didn't check it at manual. I lowered the frame 14, and found that the 22 deck didn't fit. 😱 I removed the 14 frame with water soaked cotton swab, raised level, and reassembled it. The next step is adding mast holders. They are hidden parts under decks and I can't calibrate for now, so I applied only small amount of glue. I'll align them later. You can see some frames are still twisted. I did aligning work pretty well, and it is natural. The reason is keel. Wood is not reliable material comparavely, so there is no way to make such long keel flat permanently. I'll correct the error by structual method. Some builders make holes and penetrate wood rod. This is not perfect, but very simple and effective way. However, first builders who usually don't have drilling machine can't do that. Filling wood blocks or wood rod is very traditional and basic way. Unfortunately, this is also not recommanded for new builder because you may not have deadly dangerous table saw machines. We need exactly same length of two wood blocks. The accuracy should be reached 0.01mm. Otherwise, the hull will be bent by the aligning blocks! It is super difficult for human hand, and only machines such as table saw make same result flawlessly. Table saw for modelling work is a bit expensive and requires several hours of safety education! Luckily, Artesania's new Santa Maria kit added gimick that aligns keel effectively. The red holes hold deck and frames, so it makes exact symmetrical port and starboard side. Thanks Artesania! There are still floating frames (green). They may be an issue, but negotiable. Forget them if you're first builder. Don't underestimate the previous aligning work. This gimick doesn't hold keel, frames, and deck at once. If you follow the AL manual or bond frames with 22 deck part directly, you may face more chance of asymmetry error. Different size of port and starboard side cause uncountable issues. You will see the gaps between frames and 22 deck. The gaps aren't tolerable. Check the manual page 20. This kit is designed by complex 3D CAD, and curved 23, and 24 parts are designed to fit 'bowl shaped' 22 deck. I used many number of quick release clamp for woodworing. Probably this step is the most like woodworking among all wooden model ship building progress. In other words, you may not need to use these 'big' clamps later. If you think cost is burdensome, I would recommand to use rubber band or velcroed band. Seems ok to go. Ouch, I found that both 23 and 24 don't fit at here. (Frame 3) It implies remaining aligning work, but I won't diassemble frames and rework them. 😭 I checked nearby interfering parts, and concluded that it is negotiable error. I'll enlarge the hole slightly. The next step is break corner. I put them on the red lines (keel). If the space is too narrow, sand inside (green) only. I already decided 50% of hull shape. In the next time, I'll determine 40% of hull shape. What I'm saying is that the next step is the most important step when we make wooden model ship. Attaching planking is a skill, but planning planking makes final shape of hull and determines entire ship. Polishing planks changes appearance a little bit, but it changes less than 10%. Even expert modellers say the hull construction and planning planking is the most difficult... and exciting part. Here is a cheat sheet. 😎 I'll apply the knowhow what I've learned from Toni Levine's tutorial.

I found that the newest version of the Silhouette Studio 4.4.920 doesn't support well the old Curio machine. I tried an integrated calibration function, but it didn't work due to a software bug. I deleted the newest version, and installed the latest version of 3.x Silhouette Studio. Finally everything works smoothly. 😎 I ran calibration successfully, and even I didn't need to run calibration because the 3.x software corrected distance errors well. 🤪 Although the old version isn't convenience, 3.x version is only stable option for Curio for now... Here is a test copper sheathing just for fun. The size is 18.2 x 6.2mm. I used 0.005" = 0.128mm brass sheet. That's all. I go back to workbench. See you again soon. 😀

I bought a Silhouette Curio. This machine can cut, emboss, and etch paper, brass, and stainless panel up to 6mm unlike brother paper cutting only models. There are broader options for Curio. Center and right bits are embossing bit for paper such as christmas card, and left bit can make scratch or holes on paper or brass panel. I'll use it to make copper shield. The resolution is up to 1200 DPI. Here is sample plain paper cut test. This machine uses rotatable small blade, so it is good at line cutting. However, it can't handle drastic curves such as the small fonts. The flatbed is post-it like sticky panel. Another sample. With the stencil font, I can get better result with airbrush than decals. However, the physical blade can be easily dull. 2 or 3 passes improve result. As I planned, I made cutting plan with Silhouette Studio program. It doesn't support layers, but manageable. I made 5 stencil plans for spraying different colors. As I said, Silhuette Curio is not bad for straight line cutting. Each block's size is 10.45 x 0.87mm. Here we go. I realized that I needed only 4 papers and 4 colors. I bought 'Beige' = Tan color 3D printer resin. I don't need to replace the base color... Anyway, I printed new 3D printer samples, and washed them with brown and black Vallejo acrylic paints. The thickness is about 0.15~0.20mm. Half transparent. I failed. I tried to fit the slits with the decks, but they didn't match well. I found that Silhouette Curio didn't cut slits as I planned. The original size is 10.45mm ... I had to check the wysiwyg editor makes same physical result before I start project... It can be fixed by adding modifier such as 10.45mm x 104% when I design plans... but I'm exhausted... Polishing slits takes so much time... 😭 I also bought laser paper cutting machine. I'll try again with the new machine.

Hello, Dave. I was a tech engineer. My particular concern is transfering something that very useful but a bit difficult concept easily for mass people. Making an instruction is a bit tough for 2 years wooden ship modeller, so please consider my audience is the first builders only. Thanks, Dan. 1 presentation picture is better than 10 sencentes with wrong gramar. I checked how this 22411-N kit is different from the 30 years old 22411 kit. PJ did super fine research of Santa Maria replicas. Here is brief history of replicas. Year Type Reason / Builder 1892 Nao Quadricentennial Fernandez-duro 1927 Caravel Guillen 1951 Caravel Guillen's movie 'Caravel Santa Maria' Guillen 1964 Nao Martinez-Hidalgo 1986 - Theme park, Vancouver 1990 - Movie motor ship, Osaka 1991 Carrack Quincentennial Martinez-Hidalgo 1991 Nao Kobe maritime park Barcelona 1992 Carabela Celebración del V Centenario Isla Cristina 1998 Caravel Santa Maria de Colombo Robert Wijntje 2017 Nao 525th Anniversary The Nao Victoria Foundation I would say that there should be unknown Santa Maria 'like' replicas in the world... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1844860140 'The ships of Christopher Columbus (Anatomy of the Ship) published in 1992 is my reference book. This book includes 1892 Nao version, 1927 Caravel version, and 1964=1991 Nao version of Santa Maria plans. This is an old Artesania Latina 22411 Santa Maria kit from 1992 to 2020. This kit is same as 1964=1991 Nao Santa Maria by Martinez Hidalgo. I check the reference book, and found that the kit and the plan on the book is almost same. Looks like AL definitely received data from the builder directly. Here is new 22411N Santa Maria. Looks like almost identical. Only minor exteriors are changed and rigging parts get more complexed in my opinion. Actually, major change is inside construction and quality of wood. AL made an effort to add newest modelling techniques and beginner friendly manuals for easier work. As a result, It still looks 1991 Nao Santa Maria, and doesn't look like 2017 new Nao Santa Maria. I'll stick to the new manual and the reference book, so someone who finished old kit will see any differences very soon.

Oops... I didn't change title? Also, this kit is different from 30 years old same name kit, so I added 'renewal' for search term.

Happy new year! This is my first project of 2022. I finished lots of precise plastic models including two 1/700 photo etched warships last year. I would like to re-focus on wooden model ships this year. This build log will stick to manufacture's manual and very straight build in most case for faster progress. I hope you forgive me for low level of details. 😉 This is really useful review about revamped Artesania Latina Santa Maria kit. The kit is imported last week in South Korea. https://artesanialatina.net/en/home/62096-renewed-santa-maria-caravel-wooden-model-ship-kit-8437021128086.html In addition, you can download 101mb manual file which is also in a DVD in a box. Let's easy start with a stand. The manual page is 119. Parts numbers are 78, 79, and 80 x2. I used rubber hammer and OLFA AK4 art knife with 5mm width scribing blade. You can find the OLFA's 5mm scribing blade as Tamiya 74161. The white glue is the Titebond's 'No-Run No-Drip' glue which was 'Molding & Trim' glue in the USA. It is fast drying type PVA glue which reduces waiting hour 6 times. Titebond I is more famous, but I'm in favor of this bond's pure white color. Hammer time! Don't do this at night. Without proper alignment, you will face enormous amount of fixing work. The gaps are not tighten, and sometimes keel can be twisted. This is the ideal situation. You will have minimum sanding work for planking and deck installing. In reality, you need to align all three axises. If not, you have to sand bulged frames or reinforce short frames with straps. Both of them force unnecessary labor and time. 1. Draw lines 2. Use angle rulers or any kind of parts that make 90' angle. In this case, I used aluminum profile angles and clamps. I ordered 4x 100mm aluminum angles to get exact 90' angle. This is one of the accurate angle part and exceptionally cheap solution. (about 80 cents each) Here is a diagram how aluminum angles make exact 90' angles. 3. After I clamped a frame with 4 aluminum angles and 8 clamps, I measured length of port and starboard side of the frame. It should be same. This is the last progress of aligning axises. I used 4 aluminium angles and 8 clamps. Each frame takes about 10 minutes. Nice even result. This progress looks boring, but I promise that this is much better than quick hand gluing and later overwhelming work.

When I see real pictures of wooden deck, they are usually composed by several colored batterns. After I got your advice about realistic caulk lines in 1/350 scale, I found that I should focus on battern colors rather than explicit caulk lines. I saw some commercial product that has 3~4 layers of wooden deck stencil. The stencil templates has 4 butt patterned long square holes for airbrush which are engraved by laser cutter. With slightly different brown paints, the painting guide makes 'motley' wooden deck easily. It would be better to combine current result with my own laser cut painting stencil. In addition, I received 'wood' color resin for 3D printer. I'll print wood colored wooden deck and apply brown washing for faster process. Finding a way to make stencils will be a bit time consuming. I think it is time to buy Silhouette Cameo paper cutter.

Hello, I have a plan to build scratch build 1/350 scale WW II ship in near future. By the way, I didn't want to pay $25 for 1.00mm width wooden deck sheet, and have fairly high resolution SLA resin 3D printer. I paid some time for boring work to save money and future time. This is my first rendering based on online and real wooden deck. The size is about 12 feet x 1 feet x 0.3 feet, and has some wooden bolts. As you expected, In 1/350 scale, it is almost impossible to distinguish each wooden batterns and bolt marks. I would like to oversized them in modelling expression. In addition, the 1 feet width in 1/350 scale is 0.87mm which is tough condition for my 3D printer. As I expected, my 3D printer couldn't handle wood bolts, and calk lines are too shallow. After one airbrush, most of calk lines are filled... I've polished 3D model, and printed it several times to get proper result. Trial and error is one of the most boring process when I develope micro scale 3D parts. 😭 The final 3D model looks weird, but in real condition, the huge holes and gaps between batterns will be filled. I applies Tan color lacquer and Vallejo brown washing. The panel lines and holes are still too shallow that only 2~3 airbrushing is acceptable. It may be a good idea to use wood color resin. The thickness is about 0.40mm. I think I can reduce it down to 0.20mm. Moreover, I may be able to stick the pattern when I print scratch build WW II ship. This is not comfortable and consumes lots of time. However, I got a fairly good wooden deck pattern that I may be able to use in the future.

I found critical issue for the digital loupes. The smartphone uses single lens and single screen, so I can't feel a sense of distance. 😭 (I used iPhone's default magnifying tool.) On the contrary, the DA-5 works pretty well and simple. It breaks my eyes due to too narrow focal length, but acceptable for an instant. To make eyes comfortable and improve modelling work, I may need VR headset with 3D-two lens cam or AR glasses. It is way out of this topic, so I won't continue it. I would say that this digital loupes is still great tool for inspection after assembly. It works clearly and doesn't break your eyes.

No problem, Egilman. It is my pleasure to show the most favorite spacecraft model to everyone. Thanks again for everyone watching my project.

I added 4 holes to show entire northern hemisphere equally. Sorry about southern hemisphere people. There are Portsmouth and Brest. You may be able to see MSW office. And South Korea 😎

I added 4 magnets to attach acrylic name panel freely. By the way, I asked JPL about an official Voyager mission insignia in 1976 a month ago. Unfortunately my workshop is full, so I wrap up this project and go to the next.

I bought new headmount magnifying device to protect my eyes. The experience is quite dissapointed. I felt that the lens will end my eyes... After some freewheeling brainstorming, I picked up old cellphone stand that a girl used at internet class last year. This is my iPhone 12 Mini with 26mm standard lens. More, and maximum. Nice and clear digital loupes! Additional cost $0 ! Also, I got $1 billion by saving my eyes! The distance between an object and smartphone is more than 15cm. I'll buy polyarticular cellphone stand to save more space for handwork.

Hello, If you're still looking for the LST 1-class kit, here is the newest available kit with detail-up set. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/afv-club-se73515-lst-1-class-landing-ship-tank--1169535 AFV-Club 1/350 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/infini-model-im-535016r1-usn-lst-1-class-detail-up-set--1234994 https://www.finehobby.com/FrontStore/iGoodsView.phtml?iCategoryId=1796&iGoodsId=IM535016R1 INFINI Model detail up set There are 3 LST museum ships in South Korea in 2021. I'll compare them and select one of them to build 542-class LST ship. 👍

https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-elite/62356-wooden-model-ship-kit-soleil-royal-172.html Looks like AL is really busy this year.

Hello, I bought the R.M.S. Lusitania 1/350 classic kit at a clearance sale. The price was $50 fortunately. You can find more information about this kit from the scalemates. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/gunze-sangyo-g401-rms-lusitania--1018857 The Box size is 780 x 280 x 100 mm. As you can find, this 45 years old kit is pretty much aged, and mold isn't explicit. I may be able to replace railings to PE parts. The left parts aren't chimney. They are stand pillars! Assembly overview... 🧐 Rigging is straight forward. Not bad for the scale and the age. R.M.S. Lusitania isn't more famous than Titanic. If you need reference data, there are great ship simulator games on Steam. The Ship Simulator Extremes is a bit aged and details are not good. 'The Sinking experience' series are super great reference and extremely detailed! And only $3.00 ! If you have PC with good GPU card, there are several ship simulators such as European Ship Emulator, Shipyard Simulator, Ship handling emulator, and Sailing ship builder, etcs. Some games are a bit out-dated and not handy, but their 3D-closed up details are very intuitive and cheaper than reference books in my opinion. (Please don't ask me about accuracy.😂 )

I thought about real world project again. If I apply deck planking, margins between hatch frame and lower beam definitely help strength of planks. Therefore, Toni's tutorial should be the best hatch size for deck planking I guess. I think it makes more sense, but I'm not sure...

I detailed up Eduard PE parts with stainless rod. I finished an assembly, and am polishing minor details. I gave up my first case plan. It was transparent acrylic hemisphere with circular infographic. I double-checked possibility with 3D model, and found my fault that the case is interrupted by three long range antennas. It also limits good pose. Moreover, it takes relatively large place. My house is not a museum. 🤔 Therefore, I gave up the plan, and am making simple flat acrylic back info panel.

Thanks for kind reply, Justin! I'm using old version of sketchup. Looks like the iPad utility is identical and useful. It is amusing that someone already thought and ran similar idea. 😆 I'm appreciated to hear your advice. I also think minor digit is within tolerance. The third question looks like affecting outfit, but it really doesn't in reality. Therefore, these questions are ignorable and I can advance to the next part for now. If I can get new number from Toni, I will gladly apply it.

Dear Toni, I'm making 3D capstan model for 3D printer. I don't have any plan to distribute modeling file, but have a plan to upload a simple parts-assembly animation video if you allow. (non-profit) While I was transferring plans on 3D modeling data, I found some suspicious digit errors. This is so tiny that really not a big deal for scale model unless I use CNC or 3D printer. Please consider my questions for curious and light question. (1) When I leave same width (2.5") among part 002 grating ledges, remaining edge is 1.5". It is a reason you wrote 2.62" space. However, there is remaining edge when I let 2.62" spaces. I recalculated and optimal number is 2.75" Of course, it is not important because we will make 1/16 or smaller scale model and 0.01" difference is negotiable. (2) Lets put a grating in a frame. I'm following an intermediate plan. I also checked the advanced plan, and an inner size of the A plan is 34.0 x 38.0 which is slightly smaller than I plan. Therefore, I rotated grating, and encountered the next question... (Ignored the gap due to scaling) From the tutorial picture, grating's direction and margin between frame and beam is quite different from plan. It is already proved that I can't follow the plan at question 2 (grating is rotated 90 degrees.), and now different size of grating frames (Part 004s and 006s) between tutorial and plan is confusing. If I rotate it again, it overlaps beam(part 009). I would say that the grating frame on plan is a bit oversized. I checked other member's work. usedtosail didn't rotate frame (3), but rotated grating(2) unlike the tutorial. You can see the grating frame (part 004) overlapped beams. (part 010s) It proves the project faithfully followed the plan. To sum up my questions, (1) Really minor number error report. Gaps between grating ledges may vary on inner size of grating frame. (2) Is the direction of grating important in reality? I think it is removable and direction can be changed anytime although the grating's holes aren't exact square. (3) Should the grating frame (part 004) overlap lower beams as plan directed? Which grating (tutorial or plan) is more accurate historically? (+a) Could I upload an animated assembly video of a capstan project? (non-profit, neither modeling file nor video scene file, baked video only) Thanks for reading. Best regards

Before I began, I couldn't be sure that how strong the 26cm long magnetometer stick is. Therefore, I soldered them, especially joint point in the middle. When a truss structure was completed, it was surpringly strong! I even couldn't bend or twist. Yes... I couldn't twist it. I tried to twist it 120 degrees, but the truss structure was so good at spreading power, that it began to collapse rather than be twisted. My fault was work sequence. (1) Cut and fold PE parts (2) Soldering (Completing truss structure) (3) Connecting 2 PE parts (4) Twist 120 degrees - NOT WORKING Here is better process in my guess. (1) Cut and fold PE parts. (2) Twist each PE parts 60 degrees (3) Slightly hold it with CA glue (4) Connecting 2 PE parts (5) Soldering tightly In addition, I would recommend to reinforce joint in the middle. (e.g. overlapping one block) It is really weak point. I would say that Eduard had to make one solid PE stick part. This is a difference between stock golden disk and Eduard golden disk. This is a meter unit arm holder. As you see, this part is a bit hard to hold metal Eduard PE part. I strengthened it with brass rod. On the contrary, this part is really strong and funny. It looks tricky, but very durable and stable once completed. I already finished most of assembly and left only one part. I can finish everything tonight, but won't finish it today. I have an idea to decorate poor stock stand, so I'm waiting for a package. See you next week.

When I reboot my computer and reopened the NASA site... Thermal blanket was there! Wow! NASA updated new contents! However... When I close up to the units, the thermal blankets go away as I've seen so far...... I considered that partially applied thermal blanket is one of defect of 2018 NASA model. Nope. It was just function that the shy thermal blankets run away when I get closer. They return when I pull camera far away. Thus, I'm making half clothed-half naked voyager. 😂

Here is a bug on Hasegawa manual. The dish legs are very weak. If the joints are tight, enlarge a hole with a drill or cut the tip of the legs. For people confused by the Eduard manual... Flat-Earth-Theory 😆 One of the easiest and funniest part. I cut supports among plutonium batteries. I used a default cap (A19) and Eduard 9 part. It is too tiny and difficult to bend circularly. The Meter Unit Mast is fairly twisted. I paid many time to correct them. A skewed angle is Interesting. I want to add lenses. Looks like microscope. How do they collect data and send bytes to Earth? What are those hoses? I can't see them at Voyager replicas. NASA must be hiding alien crews... This is complete mess of fact. Just mechanically impossible. Hasegawa invented this unit and this part doesn't match with 2012 NASA 3D model. I cut every parts and reconstructing each units. Here is another bug on Eduard manual. Eduard 31 parts should go there. Two units fixed. The other two units are under construction.