modeller_masa

I made a large ship boat. I have no room to store the large planes.

It was a net for green onions. 😉

I made the most popular cargo truck in South Korea... This is what I see every day.

Thank you for your kind words. I've been busy for two months building a new workshop. Most modeling tools are moved and still in boxes... I'm rebooting my modeling hobby by building some basic kits. Because of the limited resources, I used only a few tools, such as the Badger stylynez primer - white color. Also, I applied the Flory models wash - gray color. No more magic to the white hull.

I made a training aircraft. This is one of the final kits by Minicraft models. This kit is really nice and easy.

I made a paint shaker using a jigsaw. First, I bought the cheapest jigsaw. And then I connected the massage adapter to the jigsaw. I designed the paint bottle holder. This one is for Vallejo 200ml bottles. It has a pretty simple and convenient structure. Here is the result. It is fast, durable, and convenient to use. I'll design and print more holders for various bottle types.

Congratulation! Beautiful little gem...

It is a good question. This kit corrected my preconceptions about "bulky" paper model kits. Unfortunately, the "well designed" paper model kits are very rare and difficult to find. "Angled 3D polygon" paper ship model kits are still dominant in the market. The best part about this "advanced" paper ship kit is that its building method is compatible with wooden ship modeling. The Shipyard paper kit enhanced my skill in wooden ship modeling. Also, some special skills for paper modeling are very handy to add rich decorations, such as deck furniture and riggings. I would say that both of the skills helped me a lot. In addition, its easier and faster build speed allowed me to build various ship models in a short period of time. As you are aware, building large wooden ship kits typically takes more than several months. With the paper models, it is possible to build several ships of the line in the same period. I would say that the packed experience helped me to draw a rapid learning curve than building wooden model kits. I certainly recommend the rich paper model kit for the new wooden ship builders. Drawings planking patterns on white paper seems to be challenging, but I figured out some successful wood-like painting techniques. I would say that they aren't serious work, and you'll enjoy wood-like painting on paper and plastic model kits once you have learned. The paper model kit's biggest drawback is that it cannot be reversed. Paper's weak materiality makes it difficult to fix or remove once glued. It is easy to print and replace paper parts, but imagine that you attached a single planking or bulwark strip in the wrong place... I had the experience of disposing of an entire hull... ----------- I roughly assume that you have built less than 10 wooden ship model kits, and haven't built some "formal" sailing ship models such as 3~4 masted ships of the line. Is it a good time to dig into the advanced paper ship model kits? Yes. Will it improve my entire building skills and help my understanding of classic sailing ships, such as ships of the line? Absolutely. Do the advanced paper kits have a variety of selection? No... They have only limited kits, and new products are very rare due to their complex design. You may jump directly into the classic wooden kits from Caldercraft and VM, but the Shipyard and Seahorse kits will be good stepping stones to higher ground, in my opinion.

I made several tool organizers to save a busy workbench. - Tamiya adhesive square bottles (40ml) Tamiya bottle holder ver2.zip - Reduce to 10% (1/10) size. - For Gunze (GSI Creos) square bottles, reduce to 10.50% size. (+5% of the Tamiya bottles) - Gunze (GSI Creos) decal adhesive round bottles (40ml) Gunze round bottle holder ver3.zip - Reduce to 10% size. - Tamiya Acrylic paint round bottles and Gunze (GSI Creos) paint round bottles (10ml) - Also compatible with Lifecolor acrylic paint bottles This design is stackable. Tamiya Gunze bottle cradle ver1 2.stl - Reduce to 10% size. - Vallejo, AK, and MIG acrylic paint bottles (17ml) - Also stackable design Vallejo bottle holder ver2.zip - Reduce to 10% size. - Tube holder for Josonja Acrylic paint tubes (75ml) Josonja acrylic paint isn't popular in Europe or the US. Josonja tube holder 3.zip - Reduce to 10% size.

Not green screen this time. Thanks you for watching~

This is an amazing 1/72 aviation kit. This kit is a snap-tite kit, like the Gundam kits. Also, the 2021 new tool kit has astonishing details, including two pilot figures. I recommend this kit to everyone, including elementary school students.

Here is a studio setup. - Green/Blue window roller shade - Green colored wood stick under the bird - Portable fan - Portable LED flash

I made a very easy and amateur level 1/72 kit. I used a green screen to take the photo. Thank you for watching~ 🤠

The diorama and a beautiful painting are really nice examples, Allan. I turned my chair 180 degrees and picked up the book. The step by step illustrations are really impressive. Thanks for recommendations, Mark P. I can't imagine how the Great Britain was launched sideways.

Thank you for the detailed explanations, Andy. The launch procedure is more complex than I thought. It is really interesting that dock workers remove stable wooden logs and insert slipways one by one, like a jenga game. Also, the method of draining water using terrain is really clever. Because of the special equipment, such as slipways and launch cradles, I'm not ready to build launching ceremony dioramas. I'll keep it on my bucket list and collect more data for future building... Thanks so much!

It makes sense, because drydocks in the 18th century didn't have electric water pumps. However, the slopes are not sufficient for launching ships by gravity. Even roman roads had drainage slopes.

I have a question about 18th century shipyard docks. According to the video's beginning, the shipyard's bottom is flat and wide. The keel is on the wooden logs like a railway. I'm curious how did 18th century sailing ships, like the HMS Alert, get balance when she was launched. ( Source : https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68861 ) I researched some contemporary dry dock dioramas, and they shows several characteristics of dry docks in 18th century. 1) Some dry docks had water gates, so the gates are opened when the ships were ready. It is identical to modern shipyard. 2) Some dry docks had sloped bottom. As a result, the ships were on uneven ground. 3) The outside of the dry docks were connected to 'railway'. It is really amazing how the ships were safely balanced when she was moving on the wooden logs and railway before ceremonial launching day. ( Source : https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68110 ) 4) In the Chatham dockyard diorama, all the dry docks had flat and solid wooden bottoms. It is very similar to the modern shipyards. It looks like magic that completed ships on the wooden log rails were smoothly launched without any rollover accidents. Summary - In the 18th century, were all dry docks for large sailing ships flat? - Were the wooden logs sufficient to launch the big sailing ships without water? Did workers replace the wooden logs with rail before launching? - Why didn't dockyard place completed wooden rails when she was laid down? - Were there any launching accidents in the century? I remember the HMS Formidable's case. I think this question is a big chunk to digest at once. Could you recommend any reference books or guides to explain launching the big sailing ships?

Thank you for your feedback, Tomek. I hope to see the build logs or finished pictures on the Polish card board community sites. They'll be a good reference for building the next card board model kit. Thank you again for watching my project, and see you again when I send a new order.

Here is completed one. Please consider it an unpainted or semi-assembled model. I missed some parts or made mistakes. I discovered more errors in the kit during the later procedure, which were identical to the previous errors I found. The errors are repetitive. 1. The manual format isn't user friendly. There are too many things in one scene, and sometimes the instruction isn't clear because of lack of information. 2. The manual occationally misses descriptions for some parts. Most of the missing parts are essential to complete the model. 3. The manual is designed for the kit's stock paper only. When I use laser-cut parts and glue colored parts to them, it is very sensitive to the directon of adhesion. I didn't pay attention to this, which resulted in some part becoming unrecoverable. To succeed in further card board models, I need to be more careful. 1. Scan everything and reprint it when you need it - Some critical errors may require editing the scanned picture or building new parts. 2. Temporary assembly - Don't glue and paste as the instruction say. Put a cut part on the model and ensure that the fit or direction is all correct. 3. Need a better manual - I've seen several card board model kits, and their instructions are too difficult for a 21th-century boy. The manual format needs to be refined and expanded to include dozens of pages. Also, additional instructions for optional laser cut parts will improve the building experience. The card board model is quite difficult and sensitive, but my eyes can't leave their exotic kits...

This is another short term project. I'm focusing on new experience, so I'm building this kit quickly, regardless of quality. - Kit name: Szkuta Wiślana XVIII w (Vistula barge XVIII century) - Maker : Seahorse - Scale : 1/100 - Num : 2022/01 Here are the errors I found for two days. The frame consists of three different parts. It is a clever design that solve hull fairing... only if the printing is all correct. Some parts, such as 11, 12, 39, and 40, are printed wrong. If I corrected the reversed parts and polished color parts, I had two options. i) Scan, fix, and reprint color parts. ii) Using white paper and painting on it, like the Shipyard 1/72 scale kits. Many frames are larger or smaller than the guide lines on the boat's bottom. I didn't hide the white guide strips. Here is another printing mistake. The 26-P-c part is missing, so I slightly modified one of the 28-P-c parts to replace it. I estimated the frame position usingthe part 10's treenail marks. The marks indicate that the placement of frame 40 was incorrect. The next procedure is planking. The manual is a bit confusing, so I reorganized the diagrams of each planking strip. Each planking strip consists of 2 inner and 2 outer parts. There is a guide paper at the stem. I didn't pay attention to the guide. Take care of it! There are some missing parts or misprints on name tags. 46-L-a-Fore ← 48-L-a-Fore 46-R-a-Aft - missing 48-L-a-Fore - missing 48-R-a-Aft - missing I patched the missing parts with other colored parts. Day 2 of building...

I made a catastrophic mistake while I was building. This is my correction note. The kit information - Seahorse - Leudo Vinaciere - 1/72 scale - ISSN : 2658-0764 - Num : 2020-02 - CARD (paper) model The first layer and third layer of plankings are good to go. However, the second layer of plankings is incorrect. Because I followed the manual, I made an unrevokable mistake. To correct the error, flip the second layer of planking over and stick them on. I may buy the same kit and try it gain in the future...

I made a 3D printed hull before I started to glue the wooden keel and frames. I scanned the original plan and made 3D models to print the hull. Due to copyright reasons, I can't share my modelling files. I wanted to find a new way to enjoy the kit. I skip all the processes before rigging. I tried several different methods to build copied hulls. For example, I tried a 3D pen to draw hull planking. Unfortunately, it was boring and tough work. After several attempts, straight 3D modelling was the best answer. The small ship is 1/210 scale version. I'm going to build a wooden hull with the 3D printed hull for rigging together. The second hull for rigging will be my trial and error test bed for the main mission.

I made some display stands for the ongoing projects. This is a building jig. It contains the same magnets. This classic kit will be the next project. Classic design.

That's a masterpiece work, Dziadeczek. A metal lathe was enlisted on my wish list a long time ago, but I can't buy it because there's no place to install the heavy machine. I would say that my solution is dozens of times cheaper than commercial pins. Kit makers may include the 3D printed belaying pins instead of the large and thick wooden pins.

Here is another small project. The design of the belaying pin is based on this plan. It is an 8.5" long and 5/8" thick belaying pin. https://www.pettigrews.org.uk/odg/wt-project-01.htm The USS Essex used an approx. 20" long belaying pin, and the HMS Bounty used an 18" long one. This is the most successful setting. I can build 2,000 pin handles per plate. 3D Printer : Phrozen Sonic mini 8K s Setup : 0.020mm Resin : Standard brown Support tip : 0.70~0.60mm The 1/72 scale of an 8 inch long belaying pin is not practical. The 3.0mm belaying pin handle is the minimum size, with a little annoying assembly work. Here is the result. I would say that 6.0mm long with a 2.80mm handle is the minimum size for my 3D printer. If the ship is USS Essex, the 10.7mm long belaying pin is 1/48 scale, and the 6.0mm pin is 1/85 scale. The 3D printed belaying pin (handle) will be my priority choice. It is definitely better than my previous method, CA glued head.