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Arjan

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  1. The BB Oseberg kit does have its issues but it's much easier to build than the 1/35 Dusek Longship models (due to the correctly shaped hull planks). The interior of your CA model really looks awesome ! I can imagine that this has taken you many hours . I haven't finished my CA model yet, I've been too busy with more pressing matters in the "real" world 🙂. I'm looking forward to seeing more pics of your models. Regards, Arjan
  2. Thanks George, I guess building an Oseberg model is almost mandatory for Norwegian boat modelers 🙂. I regret not having visited the Viking Ship Museum when I was in Oslo many years ago. As for ballast, my model has an underwater motor under the keel (140 grams) and a 2S lipo (also 140 grams) inside the hull . So the total ballast is 280 grams. I must confess, though, that my model should only be used when there's very little wind. The model capsized moments after the attached pics had been taken (in a sudden gust of wind). Fortunately, the boat didn't sink completely and I managed to salvage it. It definitely requires a bulb keel but since it will never make a decent rc model I haven't bothered. Regards, Arjan
  3. Thanks Steven, I added a sixth crew member. I should still add the chests/seats for the oarsmen. Regards, Arjan
  4. Thanks George. In the mean time I've assembled the anchor and fitted the sails. Regards, Arjan
  5. Looking good George. Leaving the deck off for now is probably wise, especially until you have decided what to do with the steering arrangement. Regards, Arjan
  6. Time for an update. I cast some lead ballast , repainted the underwater ship, added the motor, steering servo and finally I added some rigging. Next job will be the sails. Regards, Arjan
  7. Thanks gentlemen for your kind remarks ! George, I think for most people building the CA kit just takes far too much time. The new kit, with the wooden hull, only makes matters worse in this respect . Personally I think BB should have upgraded their instructions instead of discontinuing the ABS hull. Håkan, most of the paint work was done by brush. I must confess that the Regina model is not a viable rc boat (too small and vulnerable). I put my CA build on hold last November but I will continue once my current Schnellboot project has been finished (shouldn't take too long now) : https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235083518-135-schnellboot-typ-s-38-rc-conversion/ I usually find it hard to finish projects because new ones are always more interesting 🙂. Regards, Arjan
  8. I have fitted the line thrower, bollards on the rear deck and smoke stacks. The line thrower on the current CA RS1 doesn't look like the one included in the kit. Arjan
  9. Thanks gentlemen ! I like buying second hand kits which have been languishing in an attic for many years. I guess well over 50% of all the wooden boat kits people buy never get finished. Also I often seem to prefer vintage kits which are no longer available. Popeye, I've just noticed you are the modeler who built Susan A which I liked very much. I also built (not quite 100% finished) BB's Regina Yacht which is also one of the vintage kits I bought second hand. Regards, Arjan
  10. Thanks gentlemen ! I've been working on the curved anchor chain ducts in the deck. According to the BB drawing these ducts should be positioned at some distance from the mast foot . I drilled holes into the deck accordingly but I noticed that the chain would then run onto the winch at an angle. This didn't make sense to me so I looked for some pics of these ducts on real CA boats. These images show that the ducts should be positioned tight against the mast foot which means the anchor chain now runs straight onto the winch. I filled the holes I had drilled and I also positioned the smoke stack further forward than in the drawing. Regards, Arjan
  11. I've been working on the windlass . It was assembled and painted by the previous owner but I wasn't quite happy with it. I disassembled it and removed the paint with oven cleaner. I repainted it with Vallejo Polyurethane paint.
  12. I have fitted the catheads and bollards to the fore deck. I also fitted the plastic bulwark end parts. It's not easy to align these plastic parts with the wooden bulwark parts, especially not the forward ones. These were sitting far too high and I had to modify them extensively. Arjan
  13. Hi, I moved the companionway and hatch on the fore deck one cm to the rear. This wasn't easy because the previous owner had used two component adhesive. I couldn't remove these parts without causing damage to the deck which meant I had to use some putty afterwards. After sanding down the putty I had to paint it in a colour which more or less matched the surrounding planks. I used a mix of Vallejo Sunny skin and Bronze skin tone which proved to be a reasonable match. Compare the position of these parts in the following pics . I removed the plastic bulwark end parts because only half of the parts were used and only those intended for the rear deck (the parts for the fore deck were still on the sprue). Regards, Arjan
  14. Thanks Bolin ! This is the current state of my build. Finally, I seem to have managed to post some pics .... The previous pics of my build can be found here: https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/bb-colin-archer-1-15.274135/ Regards, Arjan
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