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Everything posted by Papa
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I have installed the anchor windlass, the rudder, and constructed a skylight. The latter was tricky because of its small size
- 27 replies
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- Gjoa
- Model Shipways
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Gjoa was built in 1872; This log was mistakenly place in the 1801 to 1850 section rather than 1851 to 1900. How do I fix that?
- 27 replies
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- Gjoa
- Model Shipways
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I had to redo the stern. Stupidity caused me to omit the opening for the tiller. I also finished the pin rails.
- 27 replies
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- Gjoa
- Model Shipways
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Gjoa was used by Roald Amundsen to traverse the North West Passage from 1903 to 1906. She was built in 1872 and used as a herring fisher until Amundsen purchased her in 1901. This kit is an old Model Shipways “yellow box” kit that I purchased on eBay several years ago. These kits have minimal instructions and just a few parts: a machine shaped solid hull, some blocks for deck houses that are never the right size, dowels for masts and yards, and a bag of metal fittings. I worked on the kit off and on over the last several years but failed to take any photos. Once I finished the paper model of the liner United States I decided to attack the Gjoa seriously. Attached are a few photos showing the construction of the cap rails and the pin rails. For the cap rails I traced the out line of the bulwarks onto a piece of sheet wood, widened the line to the cap rail width, leaving plenty of extra wood. The rough rails were then glued in place and shaped to fit. The pin rails were done similarly with lots of test fitting with final shaping after they were glued in place. In the photo the port side pin rail has just been glued .
- 27 replies
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- Gjoa
- Model Shipways
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My only experience is with the United States. And it is a waterline model. To be clear about your question: no plans or parts below the waterline
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It is kind of late for my two cents worth, but JSC has a United States that I have almost completed.
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I am currently working on paper/card ship. I can only dream of being able to achieve your level of perfection.
- 26 replies
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- Celtic Voyager
- Paper Shipwright
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Thank you. It was sort of fun but I made many mistakes along the way but was able to recover. Pert of my problem is that I am developing cataracts in both eyes and my close vision is gone. Not good for for the tiny parts and fittings in this kit. Just threading a block would take many tries. Go buy one. It is a very unusual model and doesn’t take up much space. And I think very fairly priced.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Finished. Very nice having a project completed in weeks, rather than years. I think I may do a paper model next.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Because of the small size of everything this is a very difficult model to rig. It is coming along, but very slow.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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I am starting the rigging. Have sails on the yards and the cannon rigging in place. A word of caution to anyone else building this model : the end of sep 6.2 says to add cleats to the masts. step b7 says to slide the hook/mast ring on the masts. They have to slide from the deck end and as I learned the hard way it can’t be done with the cleats in place. So add the cleats after the rings are on. I also learned that a tenth of a mm is critical on this kit. My masts were more like 1.7 - 1.8 mm in diameter. They have to be very close to the 1.6 spec or those rings will not fit. Be careful. The masts will be thin and fragile. I ended up breaking the main mast and had to remake it using the spare kit I had to purchase. (See earlier postings of my stupidity)
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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MiG-3 by Javlin - FINISHED - Trumpter - 1/32
Papa replied to Javlin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I am guessing that "IP" = instrument panel and "OOB"=Out of Box But "SOD" has me puzzled. A beautiful model though -
1961 Showboat Dragster by xken - 1/8th scale - scratch built
Papa replied to xken's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Fantastic model. scale? -
I spent about 2 1/2 hours shaping the masts😬. And that long or many longer fitting boomkins and brass clamps.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Most of the brass fittings are in place. I think I will leave the tall stanchions until after I have fitted the masts.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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I checked the photos in your build log and lt looks as if you did not use the tiny nail pads (part 23) under the oarlocks.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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I took the attached photo to ask how Master Korabel expected one to insert the square peg (of the oarlock)in the tiny round hole in the nail pad. But in the photo I can see the outline of an oarlock inside the etching. Were we expected to file these down to this outline? The post might go into the hole if it were filed down and rounded. I saw nothing in the instructions to suggest this and in any case that would be way way beyond my ability. I plan to use them as is and without the tiny pad.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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A bit of an understatement! And very difficult to snip off of the sheet.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Current status. The long rails along the deck were difficult to glue down as the glue surface is very narrow and there is nothing to clamp to. I was eventually able to get a clamp from the rail down to the bar in the keel vise. It was unstable but held long enough for the glue to set. See photo (I used 3 clamps per side)
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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Planking is done. I installed the sternpost binding. I found that I could not do the nails as described by MK; they were too tiny and went flying around the room. Instead I drilled out the holes about 0.001 larger than the wire, held a small section of wire with needle nosed pliers and pushed the wire into the hole after dabbing the end in some superglue. I then snipped the wire flush with the binding plate. Some needed a bit of filing to get flush.
- 42 replies
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- Cannon Jolle
- Master Korabel
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