JKC27

Thought this may be of some interest to many on here:

https://boatnerd.com/boatnerd-news-may-16-2024/

Glad I found this build log - I have this kit, just no idea when I will get to it.  Hope I can make mine look even close to what you have going on.  Great job!

Our local museum is working on restoring an old Mossie, along with our Lancaster bomber.

I tried tinkering with TinkerCad - seems OK.  I'll have to look at Blender.

Back in my mold design days (my area is a leading automotive, auto parts, mold making city) we used CadKey I believe, then were sent for training on (at the time) a high end 3D modelling software called Unigraphics.  This is 25 years ago now, so my skills are non-existant (I left the industry in 2000), so I'd be starting from ground zero.

I'd love to get into the CAD programs again, as I know you can import .pdf and maybe other type of files and use these to create 3D printable files, and also design fittings to be 3D printed for my models.

I believe some of the .pdf blueprints I have may be able to be imported to certain programs, and then you can isolate a certain area and maybe create a 3D part/deck/etc..........I could be wrong on this.

I will ask about yellow cedar as well, when I hit my local wood shop.  This shop's old owners stocked basswood blocks, but the new owners only carried really rough cut 1x6, which is fine to stack together anyway.  Basswood cuts with such fine dust it is quite messy, but easy to work with.

It seems like I will stick with the wood hulls going forward, especially considering the size of my models (1/192 scale of a 740 ft ship is a large model).  Plus, my woodworking skills will improve along with my shipbuilding.

16 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Great Lakes vessels in bulk cargo trades  are long, narrow, and shallow draft. Designers, therefore, are hard pressed to provide adequate structure to stiffen the hulls.  Even so some ships flex uncomfortably in rough water.

 

The model that John wants to build will exhibit the same problems without internal structure.  A light plastic shell without such reinforcement will behave like a wet noodle.

 

The simplest approach is a wooden hull.  Since these Seaway sized vessels are 90% parallel mid body this can be a hollow open topped box with deck beams and deck added to the carved hull later.  The bow and stern can be laminated and designed to fit the ends of the box.  The bilge radius is easily shaped with a router and the bow and stern shaped by conventional carving techniques.

 

These ships are built with all butt welded seams.  Plating is flush with perhaps 1/8” external reinforcement of welded seams (about .01” at 1:96 scale).  Lapped plates or heavy weld lines are therefore incorrect on a model.  Proper finishing to eliminate wood grain will produce a true to scale model.

 

Roger

 

 

That was another concern I thought about.  I thought of maybe adding some stabilizing framing (which would not be seen in the model).  I like to toss new ideas around, and push myself to the next level.  Unfortunately I do not have cross sections or lines drawings with the drawings that I am using for this build.

Looks like it will be a hollow wood hull with mostly solid bow and stern shaped to the correct shapes.  Going hollow will allow for the addition of deck lighting and running the wiring for the lights fore and aft.  Hopefully my local wood shop that I got my basswood from before, still carries it (new owners), otherwise will have to find another option.

As you said Roger, modern lake freighters are basically just a hollow rectangle for most of their length.

5 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi John,

For the plug, have you considered styrofoam as an alternative to wood then heat and form styrene around the plug?  For the area such as at the stern it may be easier to make that area of the plug out of wood to withstand heavier bending.  MAYBE this video will give you some ideas.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxP3vtQxVtw for the shaping of the styrene sheets.  There is at least one MSW member that has made beautiful hulls for "steel" ships using alternative materials.  Hope he sees your post and responds.

    

Allan

 

 

I actually picked up a couple bricks of hard styrofoam (XPS expanded polystyrene) from a local Michael's - called CraftFOM  https://www.floracraft.com/products/floracraft-foam-xps/

really light weight, looks easy to carve/shape - not sure how you'd adhere styrene or cardstock to it without it melting though.  I haven't played around with these yet.  The only reason I haven't is the concept of trying to make it a smooth surface to look like a steel hull......adhering styrene sheets to it with the proper glue would melt it (I am pretty sure at least).

30 minutes ago, Javelin said:

I wouldn't try to connect styrene to wood. Due to the different expansion coefficients it's likely to crack at the seams. 

 

It's not fully clear to me what the shape of this vessel is from the plan, I'm assuming a twin prop -twin rudder configuration? 

If you want to go full styrene, I guess making styrene strips (=planks) over styrene frames will be the easiest way in such an area. Afterwards you can fill the gaps with filler and sand smooth.

For the stern itself I'd make a false stern/last frame to end the planks on, then level all planks there and put the full stern plate behind that. 

 

 

Although I'm mainly a styrene builder, I must admit for such a size model, I'd prefer wood. Styrene becomes very brittle and if you're making such a large detailed model, it might as well last for a while...

 

It's a single prop, 2 rudders.  here are couple other pics I grabbed from the 'net....  Hard to see, but this is what she looks like.  I really can't see a way of making the rudder/prop area with styrene.

Sorry that I didn't post my last completed build and it's progress, or my latest that I am working on, but they are also great lakes freighters.

My 2 builds (Algoma Strongfield - which has a build log on here) and it's fleetmate (Tim S Dool - no build log as mentioned above) were built from scratch at 1:200 and 1:192 scale respectively using basswood for their hulls.  I like working with it as it's easy to shape and readily available, but a little pricey in my area.  These are large ships, thus large models.

As I evolve as a modeller, I am always thinking of different ways to make my builds easier, etc.  A model with a solid basswood hull that is almost 48" long is heavy.  For my next/current build I have been working on building the pilot house, accomodations, etc..... actually building an unloading boom too which is turning out good (I will post pics for this build and make a log - I promise!).  I plan to add led lights on the masts, cabins, and maybe deck if all works out.  This has led me to consider doing a hollow hull.  Doing so with basswood or balsa (even if for just the sides) is simple enough, and would the stern as a solid block.  Leaving the solid block would allow for me to shape area where the propeller would attach, and rudders.  However......I thought it be rather simple to do the hull out of styrene sheets, easy to weld together, but......how would I go about that back end area (pic included in this post) with styrene?  I am thinking that wouldn't be possible......maybe somehow attach a carved wood back end to hollow styrene hull?????

Thoughts/suggestions???

Been a while since I've been on here, but wanted to chime in on this.

When this happened, right away media outlets were talking about this happening in the great lakes/seaway.  Here in Windsor we have the Ambassador Bridge that connects Windsor, Ontario to Detroit, Mi - and the way it is designed/constructed (80+ years old now), there is no way a ship strike could happen, and the new bridge downriver that is almost complete, is also strike safe.  The entity that oversees the St. Lawrence Seaway (all the locks, canals, etc.) also reassured the public that measures are in place to make sure this cannot happen.

Hello and welcome aboard from a fellow Ontarian (?)

On 10/10/2023 at 2:29 PM, realworkingsailor said:

As a correction/addendum, (and a largely forgotten bit of lore) the cam style clamps are properly called Kestner clamps, and the patent for these clamps dates to 1947:

 

https://patents.google.com/patent/US2583053A/en

 

Andy

The other style hatch cover that @Roger Pellett is mentioning that are used on the new US build Mark W Barker, as well as a few here one some Canadian lakers namely Spruceglen and Kaministiqua, are called McGregor hatches I believe?  See these commonly on the "salties".  Large hatch openings for large size cargoes, as opposed to the hatch farms typically seen on the boats that carry grain or taconite.

How I just found this, I don't know, but I will say that this is breathtakingly amazing.........and RC even!  Love the fittings, and the windows......top notch!

Your attention to the minute details is just fantastic.  This ship almost reminds me of the smaller versions we have on the great lakes, that carry petroleum related products.

This type of ship is very close to my main interest, as well as style of build.

Great job!

Woodland Scenics makes nice dry rub lettering/numbering in different sizes/fonts.  I used it white lettering on a dark blue background on my 2 builds (one is posted on here, the other I didn't do a log but will post pics when done). 

https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/DecalLetters

Thought this may be of interest to many folks on here.  Thanks to my daily perusing of the good ol' www.boatnerd.com

https://boatnerd.com/boatnerd-news-december-7-2023/

Thanks Gregory - PM sent

Welcome aboard Deyson!

Great resources here, and even greater people!  I too took up the hobby when the pandemic first raised it's ugly head.

For my current build, which I didn't create a build log for......sorry folks......  I am almost done, but need to print the company logo for each side of the stack as well as at the bow of the ship.   I need the interior part mirrored, so it's facing the other way.  The bear always faces forward, so the image below would be on the starboard side of the bow and stack.  I need to rotate the interior only.  I tried it with my previous build, but was unhappy with how it turned out and honestly took more time than it should have.  I can't figure how to do it in paint, and I'm not well versed on this type of software.  Resizing isn't an issue.

Suggestions on how to best do this?

Also.....just curious how the ship is mounted to the base or acrylic?

Wow...this looks fantastic!

Great job on this.  Sure makes me want to explore this as a possibility for my lake freighters.

Thanks Andy......I'm doing a model of the Tim S Dool and they have an anchor windlass for their single stern anchor on the boat deck I think. Is it close to this or should i just use one of these....

How do you assemble this.....No instructions provided....

Call me crazy, and I can't find it anywhere, but I am pretty sure I remember someone on here posted a while ago about making deck lights using a certain type of nail or pin, and just bending the head?

Trying to replicate modern deck lights, just won't be illuminated of course.

Anyone remember this????

Looking great!  I sure wish I had the capability/knowhow to 3D design/prints parts.  Great attention to detail and again a build I a following closely.

I think I am coming along with this one now.  Never started a build log this time though, supposed I could and get caught up on that!

Waiting on my prop and other fittings to arrive to make sure I don't have to make any adjustments before I sealing things.  I did end up grabbing a can of the sanding sealer posted above and some find grit paper too.  Been working on other parts of the ship and a Spitfire plane kit.

Hoping I can get this ship done for the model show coming up in September!

8 minutes ago, Azzoun said:

Ever use sand sealer?   Apply, sand then one more, and fine sand should get you there..   

 

Joshua

Never used it before.....  might just have to give it a try