Bill97

https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-windlass-revamp/ To give credit where credit is due for idea.

A good bit of small painting and fitting including the little brass bell. Since the instructions did not explain real well how to do the anchor chain I improvised. I think looking at the picture in the instructions Ravell wanted the builder to simply glue the chain on top the deck and an additional piece coming out of the bow, as if it was one continuous chain. I did not want to do that. I drilled holes in the deck up under the forecastle, ran the chain down through and fished it out the bow. The other ends I wrapped around the windlass and then back to the chain gate covers where I had drilled two additional holes and fed the chain ends into. I think it came out OK. Enough for today.

Thanks VTHokiee. I was able to use a combination of both your ideas and suggestions from another blogger. Got it done.

HELP! Anyone who has, or is now, building the Revell Cutty Sark! The assembly instructions has the deck in already. Step 9 shows installing the anchor chain. There are no holes in the deck for the chain to go down through in order to come out the holes in the bow. What did you do? I am stumped!

Clearway now you tell me! 😀 Henke I used a product on the deck that was recommended to me. I don’t know if it is new or not. Vallejo makes an acrylic spray set of colors for “old and new wood” effect. It is basically a process where I applied (airbrushed) a primer coat of one color, then a second color. After they thoroughly I took a .01 pigment pen and carefully drew in all the lines representing the individual deck boards. After that it was just a matter of applying various other colors on random boards and light and dark washes of the thinned acrylics until I was satisfied with the outcome. Then finally I gave it a few coats of a Matt finish lacquer for protection. Giving ample time between base coats for drying I would say the process took maybe 4 different days I worked on it.

I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark some 50-55 years ago as a teenager. After recently finishing the Revell USS Constitution I decided to do the Cutty Sark again using the skills I have refined over the years as well as the patience that comes with age. This time I decided to work with acrylics as well as enamels to achieve the effects I want, or hope for. Will include more pics as I make my way.

OK wefalck, the deck is now matt. Have to admit I do like it better.

Wefalck. I know you are right on the matt finish. I thought about that after I finished it. Tried to convince myself it was OK but obviously it is noticeable to anyone who knows about these ships. Probably should give it a couple coats of matt finish before I progress any further.

I ultimately went with a lacquer in a spray can. Numerous very light coats. Basically one swipe across the surface each time and ample drying time between each. Seems to have come out all right. Went with a semi-gloss. I am satisfied.

Wefalck, if you were me would you leave the color alone now or put a lighter wash on it? I don’t want to sand it down now that it is done to remove the simulated wood grain and start over. Will live with it on this ship and maybe do that on my next one.

This is, I think, the finished deck before I put a matte or satin finish on it. This is with the Vallejo product I showed above. Trying to decide if I should lighten it a bit or leave it alone. Maybe to gray. Not sure. I also included a photo of the actual Cutty Sark deck for comparison. What do you think?

Wefalck do you like working with it. Your ship looks great. This product was recommended to me to try. So far so good.

This is the Vellajo product I am trying out for the first time on the deck and on deck structures. So far I am really liking the effects.

Thanks again guys. Once completed the model will simply set on a display shelf. The deck should not receive any abuse or wear. Curious if during construction I would scratch it with tweezers, tools, are anything else and then need to touch it up and not be obvious. Again this is my first time to use it. I am a newby!

Oh by the way, in the photo the deck is just setting on the hull, not glued in yet. I am doing the painting of the deck separate of the hull.

Wefalck, that is a good question! One I just took for granted was necessary if using water based acrylic. Maybe I am wrong. Please enlighten me if so. As I mentioned in the beginning of the topic, this is my first time using airbrush water based acrylic. This is on the deck of my Cutty Sark build. Always used enamels in the past. I just assumed once I completed the weathering of the deck to my satisfaction that I need to seal it for protection from scratches or whatever. Again I just assumed acrylics were not as durable as enamels. Please tell me, if so, that I am wrong in that assumption and I don’t need to be concerned about it. The picture is my initial airbrush primer coat. More color and weathering will follow in additional coats and brush weathering.

Thanks everybody. Will do some test and see how it goes.

Understand mtaylor. I posted the question there already but did not get any replies. I know this is not the correct location for the question but since I started the topic and a number of modelers were great in their responses, I hoped just a quick reply from them would be OK, and would not highjack my topic. I was needing a quick answer. Will try to keep my topics in the correct file drawer in the future.

I have a can of clear spray lacquer on hand that I used to top coat the metallic copper spray I used for the lower part of the hull. I like to use it over the copper spray because the copper spray seems to be susceptible to fingerprints even after it is dry. Could I use that same product over the Vallejo acrylic Air? I would do a test on scrap material to see if it is OK. Wondered if numerous very light coats with drying time between each would accomplish what I need. Do not want the acrylic paint to soften “melt” and ruin all the hard work I have done.

Hey guys I know this is not the correct blog for this question but I am wondering since you have been so helpful if I could just simply ask you another question here. For the first time I am using acrylics on my new Cutty Sark build. Until this point I have always used enamels. I purchased an airbrush kit and am using Vallejo acrylic airbrush paints to do some nice effects on the deck and other parts. Once finished and thoroughly dry I want to seal the deck for protection with a matt or satin finish. What should I use? Do not know if I can put solvent based laquer, polyurethane, or other similar product over acrylics. Or, do I need to use some kind of water based top coat? After all the work I have done getting the aged look to the deck I would hate to see it ruined by putting something wrong over the acrylic. Any help andadvice would be greatly appreciated. #1 Posted 15 hourFor the first time I am using acrylics on my new Cutty Sark build. Until this point I have always used enamels. I purchased an airbrush kit and am using Vallejo acrylic airbrush paints to do some nice effects on the deck and other parts. Once finished and thoroughly dry I want to seal the deck for protection with a matt or satin finish. What should I use? Do not know if I can put solvent based laquer, polyurethane, or other similar product over acrylics. Or, do I need to use some kind of water based top coat? After all the work I have done getting the aged look to the deck I would hate to see it ruined by putting something wrong over the acrylic. Any help andadvice would be greatly appreciated.

For the first time I am using acrylics on my new Cutty Sark build. Until this point I have always used enamels. I purchased an airbrush kit and am using Vallejo acrylic airbrush paints to do some nice effects on the deck and other parts. Once finished and thoroughly dry I want to seal the deck for protection with a matt or satin finish. What should I use? Do not know if I can put solvent based laquer, polyurethane, or other similar product over acrylics. Or, do I need to use some kind of water based top coat? After all the work I have done getting the aged look to the deck I would hate to see it ruined by putting something wrong over the acrylic. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

This has been an extremely interesting and helpful discussion which is obvious by there being almost 50 replies. As I said in the initial topic question, I was not aware this blog site existed until I Googled ideas about sails. In retrospect it would have been very helpful during my recent Constitution build. With all the different opinions, methods, and tried and true techniques, it makes me wonder what other area of model ship building is open for so much individuality? Be it painting, displaying, historical accuracy, etc? I have always been a follow the instructions sort of builder. Find part “27” and glue it here and so on. I paint (enamel) colors close to the instructions or pictures I find of the actual ship. But outside of using the plastic formed sails or not using them, I have rarely, if ever strayed from the box instructions and parts. So I am now just wondering what other areas for you provide for as much thought, experimenting, and individuality as does the sails? I need to step outside the “box”!

Ok. Next question in this great topic. If you make your own unfurled sails, either cloth or paper, do you go with a process that produces a formed billowed sail or a flat hanging sail?

Oh, and thanks mtaylor for the linc and PDF on furled sails. This sail thing adds a whole new dimension to the ship building hobby. In the past it was just a question of adding them or not, and if adding them just using the preformed ones that come with the kit. Not anymore! My eyes have been opened! For authenticity, is it always the case that if the sails are unfurled the yards are at a different position on the mast and slightly angled off 90 degrees?

Looking at all these beautiful ships has me wondering what your favorite scale is? I have always worked with models in the 1/96 to 1/100 range thinking there would be so much more detail and also pieces large enough to handle with tweezers, etc. of course I then end up with ships nearly 3’ long that take up a lot of display space. Are the smaller scale models just as, or more, enjoyable