AnobiumPunctatum

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.
The detailed build log will be a great help later.
 
EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

I think I might have mentioned this somewhere but I will repeat here.
 
There will be a starter package containing keel parts, frame parts and build board along with the plans.  You scratch everything else.  Estimate $100
 
Then there will be a full kit version no rigging materials...just the hull.  Estimate $180ish but this could be way off because I m not close to knowing yet
 
Lastly...a separate rigging/sail package with everything to add masts/sails to your model. Containing mast material, rope, blocks, whatever else including sail material. Estimate $45ish
 
Thats it.  Otherwise it gets to crazy.  This should make it economically feasible for most folks who may only want the starter package and scratch everything else.  Otherwise they can buy one of the other options.  But I cant itemize it out into smaller packages because that would be insane to keep track of.
 
Starter packages will only be available for those taking part in the MSW group project and bought through this site.  Once I add it to my store....there will only be the full hull kit and rigging packages available.   
 
 

Really wonderful and impressive pictures. I am already looking forward to the project

Nicely done Sam.....try and keep it on the table top from now on though....
 
You might even want to sand those frames and caprail down even thinner if possible.   The thinner it is the more elegant it will look.

 

OK so I skipped a few steps here but this is where I'm at.
 
It's been pretty by the book (kinda')
 
As I stated initially I wanted a deeper color scheme so I've opted for a first coat of 50-50 thinner and minwax golden oak stain and then a full strength (lightly applied) of golden oak. I then hit everything with a wipe on poly. The paint is a windsor newton galleria black (the usual 97 (LOL)  thin coats).
 
I have ordered cherry sheets to make the lower molding out of cherry to match the finish. The top moldings are ripped from scrap from the kit.
 
The bow is painted full black as I saw some images of barges with a full field of color. I thought the paint between moldings looked a little "race stripey" for my tastes.
 
The carvings (or in my case all castings) will be a gilded gold with a dull finish.
 
BTW I have purchased the resin castings from Syren and they are beautifully done.
 
For those of you who are wondering why the keel is doubled the kit as designed CAN NOT withstand a fall from a table top to a concrete floor. After several attempts I was left with the option of re-enforcing the keel or starting over.
 
I am thinking if continuing the frieze pattern onto the bench arms. I've attached a mock-up of it - opinions?????
 
Also I have accepted Chuck's "challenge" and will be doing some additional carvings/details to the bow.............. to be continued
 
Sam
 
 


ARMS WITH INSERT030518.pdf

Well I've decided on a finish.
 
As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color.
 
I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off.
 
I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine.
 
Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input
 
Sam

I returned to the QA BARGE this weekend and was able to get all the frames assembled. Just a few observations;
 
The directions are specific in stating that each frame set should be separated and installed individually and then assembled. This should be followed as it is easy to mix up the parts as there is in some cases only a slight difference in shape and mixing them up is easily possible.
 
Once all the frames were assembled I attempted to fit them into their respective slots on the boards. Once again as per the directions there was some mild sanding required to get the tabs inserted under a gentle press fit and not pressured in. 
 
Although not pictured I have dry fit the keel on the assembly. As with the bulkheads some of the slots on the keel were tight on the frames. I took a scrap piece of the cherry and used it as a test fit throughout. With a sanding stick I gently touched up the bottom of the bulkheads where needed.
 
That's it for construction this weekend. I will spend the rest of my "BARGE" time testing finishes on the scrap wood. I am leaning towards a tung oil finish (maybe with some type of sepia wash) or a satin poly wipe on.
 
Those results (and hopefully the assembled keel/bulkheads) here next weekend.
 
Sam

Well the clamps are off and the work on the BARGE is done until next weekend. I have another personal build I want to spend some time on and a kit design project just getting underway. Keep an eye on MSW for news on that coming soon...........
 
I taped together a couple of pieces of thin cardboard to make a small firm envelope to store the flags, inset and sweeps' artwork and the chip board laser cut piece. I'll leave them safely in the bottom of the box until they are needed.
 
Sam

Progress?.............
 
One of the things to take note of with this kit is glueing parts. Obviously the goal is to have a pristine surface ready for finish. Glue on the raw wood will affect the sealer, oil or whatever is to be used. With the small surface areas that contact in these first few steps it is imperative that enough glue is used to bond but not so much to squeeze out and cause finish issues down the road.
 
It is almost necessary to let the first (almost transparent) coat of glue to seal the char providing  suitable surface(s) to bind. The second coat is just as thin. Tooth pics were used as spreaders and good old fashioned clothespins were the right depth and more importantly the best tension/pressure to act as clamps.
 
I have been using Titebond (yellow) as my primary glue with just dots of a medium CA to hold pieces in place until the yellow sets up.

Boy am I having a hard time with this thread................
 
One more pic

Good morning all
 
Thanks to everyone so far who has checked and wished well so far.
 
Bob - nice job on HALIFAX 
Thanks to Nils, Jason, Dan, Mike, Steve
Grant - I'll PM you on my other project
 
Anyway, the build is underway. 
 
The thing that is to be stressed continuously with this build/kit is patience. Care must be taken i handling the pieces and the builder should always read the directions thoroughly before proceeding. Unlike a lot of kits this is definitely a  "manual" build. In that I mean the builder has to read the manual. Just a cursory  read is not sufficient. The plans are supplemental to the manual. Chuck has provided a very clear process that will produce a beautiful build.
 
I've released the first series of parts and removed the char as directed. The keel assembly needs to be beveled and then I can put it together. That will be later this weekend.

I've only submitted a couple of logs on MSW and they've been more progress than build logs in that It has been pics of where I'm at and not necessarily how I got there. I'm going to try to make this a little more comprehensive so here goes..........
 
The BARGE arrived to my house in Western New York from Syren's offices in New Jersey in about 4 days. Cant beat that. The box was much smaller than I anticipated only being about 15"x4"x6".
 
I opened it to find everything neatly and securely placed and and well packaged.  Included are two plan sheets 18"x24" at a scale of 1:1. The manual is a 3 part PDF download from Syren's website that I had printed out and spiral bound at Office Max. I opted to print it in B&W, after binding it was $12.99. The same production in color would have run close to $60 so B&W it is.
 
The parts are all extremely well cut and appear to be very easy to release. What is surprising is the delicate feel of the parts. A lot of the sheets are only 1/32" so patience and care must be shown in handling. One thing that caught my eye was how pretty the cherry wood is even unfinished. The color is consistent and the grain is very attractive. With a finish coat or oil on it it should be beautiful.
 
The flags provided are sharp and detailed as are the inlays for the BARGE and the markings for the oars. 
 
The details of the 7 castings included are crisp and need virtually no remedial work prior to finish.
 
As far as unboxings go this was pretty uneventful. The quality of all included are what has come to be expected from Syren Ship Model Company - perfect.

I don't think this is the case.  There will be a group build here on this site - each member of the group will have to post on his own building block using the materials chosen/provided.
Only when the members of this (online) group have received their material will it be made available as a kit on Chuck's site.
 
Do correct me when I am wrong.
Slainte gu mhath
L.H.

Next I worked on the iron strap along the outside edge of the stem. The strap is laser cut from laserboard
which is resin impregnated paper and already blackened.After the pieces were glued in place holes were
drilled to accept 22 gauge wire  which simulated the bolts. After the wire was cut and sanded smooth
they were painted black and then some rusty brown weathering powder was applied to give it a more 
metal look.
 

 

 

 
Next up it will be assembling the thole pins, placing them and then more painting!

This will not come as any new revelation to anyone but Chuck is a great carver. Me not so much. 
I've played with the boxwood laser cut carvings and though they are really great I slaughtered them.
Soooooo I am using Chucks optional resin castings. They required very little clean up.
Chucks used weathering powders and I did the same. You can see the results below. 
You also can see there's still a lot of clean up and touching up needed.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 

The kit provides the various friezes all sized and ready to be inserted into the panels.
Chuck describes using a glue stick to adhere the friezes. As I didn't have a glue stick I
diluted some white glue, used a paint brush to apply it to the area inside the panels
and then gently press the frieze in place. 
 

 

 

 
 

 
Next I will paint and install the bow flag support brace and the step.

Hi All,
 
I've got some catching up to do here.
 
The risers for the thwarts fitted, clamped and drying.
 

 

 
The benches, bench seat back and coxswain seats have been added and the first several
coats of paint have been applied with many more to come.
 
Here are the laser cut thwarts and the two long saw tooth looking strips are for the stretchers.
 

 
I kinda got caught up working and forgot to take pictures. Each cross piece was specifically cut for its
position so numbering them and keeping them in order was real important. All pieces were test fitted
then taken apart and glued together. After assembling the thwarts I realized I had gotten ahead of myself
and forgot to put the stretchers in. Oops followed by a bunch of swearing. Luckily I was able to slide
everything in between the framing. No harm no foul. Whew.
 

 
 Many more coats of paint is needed and well as planking above the thwarts.
 

 

Thanks and welcome aboard Tim!
 
Thank Bob! 
 
The centers have now been removed from the frames. Like Ben I found using a fine razor saw worked well for me.
 

 
Next is adding the cap rail and fairing the inboard frames.

Moving along I have assembled all of the frames. It went very smoothly.
 

 
I've also been able to complete the keel assembly. Chuck did a great job on the scarf joints. You did not need to sand the char off and the fit was perfect.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks for the Likes.
 
So the fancy panels went on really well and the friezes that Chuck supplies fitted inside them perfectly.
 
Also I scraped the trim pieces with a home made simple profile.
 
Now for the carvings.
 
ben

As my first planking on my Armed Virginia Sloop build fill my time since two weeks, I decided to begin a new build. It allow me to practice a new type of work during this repetitive phase on the AVS build.

When I began in this hobby, I was attracted at once by barges. Quickly, my choice was reduced to three models: the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipways, the english pinnace, an another Model Shipways model and the Queen Anne Barge from Syren Ship Model Company. You will notice that this three models were designed by the same developer : the great master Chuck Passaro.

It quickly seemed that the most appropriate choice lived in the Queen Anne Barge. And this for many reasons. At first, this model seem more suited to a modeler having not many experience. Chuck has designed a wonderful kit which contains all the elements necessary to simplify the work of the builder. The barge has only three strakes of planking. Furthermore, all oft he outboard planking has been pre-spiled and two sheets of laser cut planks are supplied, one fort he port and the second fort he starboard side.

The second reason form y choice, is the quality of the manual of instructions. Chuck must have been teacher and writer in a previous life… The manual is read as a novel and numerous photos illustrate the very precise explanations. You have only to follow the instructions and all will be fine.

The last reason is the quality oft he model. As with his previous model, the Cheerful  cutter, Chuck has again designed a  ´must to have´ kit. The quality of the laser cut is one of the best currently and the concept of the  kit is innovative. Everything is thought to simplify the work of the modelist. The Syren Ship Model Company is, for me, one of the leader in this market and I look forward to the next model…  It will be mine too.

I have the great fortune to be connected on this forum when Chuck announced the release of the first set of eleven Barge kits. I was lucky because within half an hour everything was sold…

One week later, my precious was at home.  Another indication of the seriousness of  the Syren Ship Model Company.
But now it's time for the build
You just notice that I used a piece of scrap 1/32" basswood to help me to center the two pieces on the top of the keel. So I have better luck that these two pieces have a regular 1/32" lip on both sides. For the rest, I just follow carefully the Chuck instructions...
It will be time to prepare the frames.
 

In parallel of the build on the Armed Virginia Sloop, I work softly on this magnificent barge. I follow faithfully the instructions of the excellent manual. The instructions are precise and built on a very educational method. The teaching profession should have also been one of Chuck's professions in a previous life...
As I work in the computer world, I was able to print the manual on a good laser color printer. Just follow the instructions and take a lot of fun in the build of this kit.
Nothing is glued. It's just a test to see how it will be. Following the log of Rustyj, I notice that the two frames 0 should not face in the same directions. I will correct this when it will be time to glue the frames. That's the luck to follow build logs on this forum !

My work on the Queen barge advance quietly.
I have glued the frames on the building board paying attention to the direction of each of them.



Then I applied a coat of tung oil.

Finally I have glued the planks #1 and #2 on each side of the barge.
 
For the plank #1, I begin on the port side and everything goes well. But when I bend the plank for the starboard side, I twist the plank in the wrong direction... Yes it's very easy to forget which way we need to twist it... And naturally when I try to twist it in the opposite direction happens what should happen... I broke the plank !
 
Luckily the Syren Ship Model Company provides an extra exterior barge planking set. As I had to order some cannons and swivel guns to upgrade the armement of my Armed Viriginia Sloop, I just had to add this set to my order. As always with my orders at Syren Ship Model Company, I received the packet in the same week.
And this time, when you take care of the direction of the twist everything is easier...


Now I will work on the plank #3.
I just have clean the laser char. Its time to bend and twist. But I can work more quietly because this time I will be very careful on the direction of the twist...