AnobiumPunctatum

Hi Aldo,
 
if the hard discof your old computer is ok, you can take it out of the computer, put it in an external drive station and put it with the USB port on an other computer. if you're lucky, you get access to all drawings, you have done. 2011 my old notebook crashed and I could restore a lot of my work on this way. In the meantime I store my data in an cloud, to avoid these problems
I wish you a lot of luck with your data.
 
You're hull is looking really well.

Hi Aldo,
 
if the hard discof your old computer is ok, you can take it out of the computer, put it in an external drive station and put it with the USB port on an other computer. if you're lucky, you get access to all drawings, you have done. 2011 my old notebook crashed and I could restore a lot of my work on this way. In the meantime I store my data in an cloud, to avoid these problems
I wish you a lot of luck with your data.
 
You're hull is looking really well.

Hi guys, I just came from a long break from ship building
 
My old computer, containing all my Triton CAD drawings crashed two years ago, plus I've been very busy with my health work ups, my job, as well as new hobbies that captured my interest, hence, shipbuilding took a backseat.
 
Last night however, I chanced upon a documentary on HMAV Bounty so I was inspired to take a peek here and see how things are doing in the model-shipbuilding world. I thought I'd also post photos on the small bits of progress I've accomplished.
 
Time sure flies, just a few years ago I was building Triton's hull, and now.......    well, I'm still building Triton's hull
 
I was finally able to finish the 1st planking and gun-ports today, thanks in no small part to that Bounty documentary 
Here she is awaiting her last plank:

Whether scratch-building or building a kit, one of the most satisfying steps for me is sticking in that last plank...   OK, it's a sharp, pointy plank that is a glaring violation of planking rules, but this is just the first planking so cut me some slack 

Once I start second planking, I'll decide whether I will properly pre-spile my planks like I did in my Pegasus or be a lazy violator of planking rules... if by chance I go with the lazy-violator route, please feel free to give me 40 lashes
 
The Admiral is using my workshop so I'm left to take pictures on the TV stand

I'm happy to report that the bulge on the aft portion has disappeared with the revised aft bulkheads I've taken from the NMM draught of Triton:

The fore bulkheads were also taken directly from the NMM draught and I think the resulting shape seems acceptable enough based on this shot taken at an angle from the bow:

 
 
NEWEST CHALLENGE TO HURDLE 
 
Like I said before, my computer crashed, taking with it all my Triton CAD drawings, including the expansion drawings that I made for the stern and its windows... I worked so hard on that and it took me such a long time just to get it done since I'm just a newbie at CAD. I was planning to have that stern and all those stern windows laser-cut to make my build easier, and to have window sills that look "to scale"... but now all those have gone pffft 
Up to now, all the computer shops here suggest reformatting the computer but that will delete all my saved files
All I have left is this NMM Triton draught, which is too large to be scanned for uploading to my CAD program:


I am left with 2 options:
 
1. Cut my NMM draught into smaller pieces that can fit my scanner so I can load it again on CAD. Then redo all the drawings that I previously made (I'm hesitant to do this since I was planning to frame my NMM Triton draught and hang it beside the model when I finish her, and more importantly, I feel too lazy to redo everything that I drew all over again).
 
2. Continue my search for a computer shop that can somehow retrieve my files from my computer so as to save myself from a redoing a lot of work.
 
I've been going with the second option for the past 2 years, I'm just too lazy I guess

Really nice progress

All the steps in place.

I did manage to get the other side Wales done and mounted and started on the gun deck . I got a good amount of it dry fit . I hope to be able to get the rest fit and get it sanded and glued together over the coarse of the week. Here are a few pics of how she is looking at this stage of the build .
 
Thanks for checking out my progress 

Derek C

Really nice progress. My section in quarterscale is big but your model must be really huge

For the upper layer of outboard trims I use the same profile, but this time upside down. This time the trims are glued directly on the outboard planking.

A quick up-date........
 
After a bit or re-organisation the workshop now has an area dedicated to the Triton build.
 

 
The first frame has now been completed. I'm thinking about adding some pegs (tree nails?) Assuming that these would have been about an inch in diameter on the original my calculations come out at a gnats whisker over 0.5 mm diameter. I'll try and source some brass wire and see how it goes.
 

 

 
I played safe and worked on a frame from the centre of the hull (0). It currently has excess material at the top which will be trimmed later, but in the meantime this provides support for the acrylic brace that I hope will prevent any movement in the wood.
 
I've also had a go at making a height gauge for transferring vertical measurements from the plan to the model.
 

 

 
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.

Hi,
Now that the dust has settled on the start of a new school year I've managed devote a bit of time again to this project and have made some more progress ......
 
Shaping the fore and aft deadwoods was holding me up a bit as I tried to make sense of the various sectional profile drawings. My inexperience was evident as I tried to juggle the various profiles and much time was spent working through the other build logs in this section. They certainly helped, and then I came across and followed the link that Dan Vad mentioned in a post referring to his HMS Vulture build. This proved to be a great help and I can see myself visiting this regularly as my build continues - thank's Dan!
 
In the end you just have to dive in and have a go...
 

 
Using a combination of thin brass sheet and acrylic templates pinned to the aft deadwood the sides were reduced to the required shape.
 

 
My first attempt at tapering the lower end of the inner post was not as successful as I had hoped so a second had to be made.
 
The rebates were then cut in the stern post with a scalpel and lower area worked to match the ajoining components prior to being glued together.
 
A carving knife proved an effective way to cut the curving rebate in the stem and subsequent shaping of the fore deadwood. I expect there will be a bit more work ahead on these later.
 

 

 
At last we have a keel!
 

 

 

 
... and work begins on the frames ......
 

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi,
The Furniture scratch repair pens arrived .... three different browns euphemistically labeled mahogany, oak and cherry.

The first was as dark as the marker pen I used previously on the aft deadwood, the other two, shown above, were very similar to each other but do not match the woods they are named after, to be honest. The cherry, on the left, was the best of the bunch and it was this that I used on the second attempt at the deadwood and various scarf joints.

It would be wrong of me to criticize these pens without actually trying them for their advertised purpose, but with a working knowledge of furniture restoration and various finishing technique including French polishing there are other processes I'd use to repair scratches first.  The effect of this pen was generally okay although it does have a tendency to bleed,  especially on end grain.
 
Then I came across Dan Vad's advice to Jeff (Zarcon) on his HMS Victory build log about using Pigma Brush pens and archival ink.  More than twice the price of the set of three, but so much better - and worth every penny! I'll be using this for the rest of the build.

I have now completed cutting out all the components for the keel etc.







My next task is to add the rebates and additional tapering to the fore and aft deadwoods, referring to the first plan sheet and the other build logs in this forum - I love a challenge!  Once this has been done, and the parts have been assembled, I hope to be in a position to access the full set of sheets.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Be careful with black paper. I've the exerience that the gluing is not stable. The problem is that paper has different layers and the wood glue will not go through all. I prefer black pulp, which I found in an hobby store. It has only one layer.

Larry,
 
the problem with your deadwood is, that you did not made the core part thin enough. After glueing the outer layers on it, it should not be visible. If you put a plank on the stern post and after deadwood, there are some space on your model which should not be there. Don't worry I need several trys until I got these parts right.
I hope you can see on the picture what I mean.
 

Thank you for your nice comments.
I introduce myself: I am an engineer of Arts and Crafts and I have always done a little modeling during my life parallel to my job. I am married, I have three children and six grandchildren. I'm 76 years old.
In retirement since 1998 I accidentally fell on the drawing of the stern of the Royal Sun, drawing by Jean Berain.
Immediately I was seduced and I decided to build this ship in Arsenal.
I started my research in 2008 by browsing the historical backgrounds in search of exact documents on the Royal Sun. My object was to compile all these documents in order to have enough to draw up the plans of this ship as well as possible.
This was done in 2009. It was a first approach that was to guide the construction while allowing the retouching as and when.
The axial framework with more than 90 frames and the stern and stern frame will be presented at an exhibition in January 2010.
Photos of this period:

I present here the latest photos of my Royal Sun. It is not finished and if it interests you I would put you following as work progresses.
Excuse me but not speaking English I use the Google translator

Small progression on the scenery of the foils of foal.
There is still a lot of work
Jean Berain did not hesitate to load the beast
To be continued
friendships
Michel

Wonderful progress, Ben. It's looking really good.

Almost there....
 
This photo shows the contents of the kit.   I am just finalizing a few more things.  The kit is made from all cherry with some additional boxwood accents.  You get the resin casting set minus the seven items you will be carving.  But the seven items will be available later as an option for those that dont want to carve them.  I hope everyone at least tries.  You get two sheets of plans and printed friezes for the panels and sweeps.   The pedestals and sweep racks are also included.   There will be no printed instructions in the box to keep costs down but the full set will be available as a download on my site as usual.   There are 25 laser cut sheets of cherry and boxwood that range in size and thickness.  The planks are pre-spiled and laser cut for you. The real fragile stuff is carefully packaged in bags rather than being left in the laser cut sheets like the etched panels that are inboard.  They are boxwood and very fragile.
 
This kit contains everything you need to build it just like I have straight out of the box including pre-printed flags on tissue paper.  It is a fully framed model with floors and toptimbers just like the contemporary models and will retail for $235.  It will be available real soon and just in time for Christmas.
Let me know if you have any questions.
 


Chuck

Thanks
No its just paper.  You cut them out carefully with a #11 blade and glue them on.  Really simple.  They are dolphins/sea creatures based on the typical decorations shown on sweeps of that time period.  I basically tried to repeat what Druxey painted on his sweeps for the Hospital Barge.  His sweeps as decorated inspired me to do the same.  I think it adds a nice touch.  Here is one of his painted sweeps.  Although he painted all of his directly on each sweep.  I cheated and made one and then scanned it, printed it .....cut them out and glued them on.
 

 
 
 
 

Hi,
 
So work on Pegasus we be starting again now I have humidity back to normal control, and summer projects put back to bed.
Old counter framing was broken on last house move so it has to be remade.
First order of business was to make a jig to attach to my gantry for the correct alignment and position of new side counter timbers, made out of some poplar and sized so top corners are the correct height from the keel to toptimber level, and width to correspond for correct gap 12'3" ( 3 1/16" full size ).
New side counter timbers were shaped out of 15" thick stock as per TFFM, glued into correct position on wing transom, and pinned through with 20ga copper wire / 5 min epoxy for strength.
Distance between side counter timbers at the upper counter knuckle was checked as well, pretty confident these are in the correct place.
Now to start on the filling timbers and QB light port.
 
ben
 

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

It's allways a pleasure, if I get an mail that you have prepared a new update of your fantastic build. I love the elegant clipper ships and hope that I will have in the future the possibility to build a model of one - perhaps Young America

Really fantastic buildlog. Thanks for sharing

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 239 – Revisions - Spencer and Headsail Rigging
 
The running rigging described in the last two parts has been revised.  In the case of the spencer gaff the fall of the vang was obstructed by the outer boats on the skid beams.  To correct this, I added lead blocks to the forward topmast backstay and led the fall down to its pin through a fairlead on that stay.  The first picture shows the original configuration on the port side and the revision on the starboard side.
 

 
The revised rig retains the same eyebolt for the standing leg of the vang, which then passes through the block on the shortened pendant, then through the lead block and a fairlead, both on the forward topmast stay.  The fall then belays on the same pin as before.  The next picture shows the starboard lead block and fairlead.
 

 
The old rope coils and belaying were removed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A cotton swab soaked in isopropanol was laid on the rope for a few minutes to soften the wood glue. The rope was then easily removed.
 
The other revision involved the halyards on the three headsails.  I initially considered three typical configurations for these – no blocks, a single block whip from the deck, and a single block at the head of the sail.  I installed the first, simplest method as described in Part 238.  Shortly after installing these, I thought more about this and was concerned about no mechanical advantage on these rather large sails.  In checking (belatedly) the 1870's photo of the ship in New York, the blocks at the lower ends of the stays are clearly visible.  So, that configuration has now been installed on all three stays.  The foot of the topmast stay is shown in the next picture after revision.

This may be compared with the first photo in Part 238.  The revised lower rigging of the outer jib halyard is shown in the next picture.
 

To avoid re-rigging the downhaulers, the lower blocks were strapped to the shackle in place – a most difficult task, especially with shaky hands. The shackle eye was tied first, then the splice at the base of the block.  The inner jib stay at the left of the picture has not yet been converted. 
 
The upper ends of the stays are shown in the next picture with the standing ends of the halyards tied to the stays.
 

The last picture shows all three halyards converted.
 

So, we are now back on track after a short detour.
 
Ed