Jump to content

Queen Anne Barge by Trussben - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model - 1:24


Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

Ive decided to start a build log of the Syren Ship model, Queen Anne Barge at 1:24 scale that I managed to purchase from Chuck.

The kit was purchased as a nice diversion away from my build of the Pegasus which has been slogging away for several years now

and I wanted something that I could finish reasonably quickly.

As of all things designed and produced by Chuck, I was not surprised on opening the box to be greeted by top quality components

and plans, instructions were downloaded from his site. I shall not post pics of all the items as another builder ( Sam ) has already done

that.

I have started by completing the keel, all parts fitted together perfectly with no issues being seen so far, I will start putting together

the frames and see how this unique approach that Chuck has devised for floor and futtock framing works.

 

Ben

 

IMG_2205.JPG

IMG_2206.JPG

IMG_E2207.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will be following your build log.  The cherry wood looks real nice.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here are all the frames assembled and adjusted to fit in the build board. No issues seen at all, you just have to be careful to only glue one floor and futtock at a time to make sure they don’t get mixed up.

Getting the loose but not too loose fit of the tabs into the build board just takes a little time and care to get just right.

Next up will be glueing the keel assembly onto this framing.

 

ben

E2CFB267-D7E2-4F1C-9145-9BBC7E1B427D.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good Ben...  Nicely done.

 

Be careful to make sure that the frames are facing the correct way.  Its tricky because they are upside down.  I think you might have one or two facing the wrong direction in the photo.  They switch direction at frame "0".  One "0" frame faces one direction and the other  "0" frame starts all of them going the other direction.

 

Check your forward "0" frame and your forward "A" frame. ;)

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is the keel glued onto the frames in preparation for fairing.

 

Note how on the forward frames, the floors face forward and on the aft they face aft as per the plans.

 

The build boards were taped together with gorilla tape.

 

ben

BE9C9522-ECB6-4040-BFEE-226A2B100E53.jpeg

37289FE5-A760-4D47-99FD-43A83646EDE3.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lookin good.  :)  You framed up the entire barge very quickly,  I hope you are having fun with it and find it interesting to build.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chuck - yep she’s a fun build but only just getting going you know.

 

Sam - most of the slots needed some small adjustment to get just perfect. I have not used any sealer so far as I haven’t decided between WOP or an oil finish like Tung/Watcos.

 

ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ben

 

I'm leaning towards the tung oil also. I'd like something a little "warmer" if that makes any sense in the finish.

I haven't run any tests yet though.

I've even given some thought to the process the "Russian Builders" use with bithuman (sp) but that may be too aggressive.

 

Sam

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING UNDER DEVELOPMENT 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some pictures of the framing that has now been faired using medium grit paper and emery boards.

A lot of care needs to be taken to not break any of the frames and the tiny tabs that hold them together, and even then I had a few whoops moments.

 

Ben

2CA3CD5E-E993-4B3C-9D47-84180ECFA31B.jpeg

AD2597F0-7DC9-4ED3-B6A4-CB75F5A6BC54.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't look as though you have done much fairing at all. Is that the norm and if so I do far too much ?

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Chuck, it probably means I do too much. I will try not too be so bold with my new build !

Current build : Gorch Fock Occre

 

Completed non-boat build 1/16 Model expo Sopwith Camel - in shore leave.

Previous boat builds:

Amerigo Vespucci Occre

Yacht Mary

Artesania Latina Red Dragon (Modified)

Non-boat build 1/24 scale Dennis bus by OcCre - in shore leave.

Mare Nostrum (modified)  Amati Oseberg (modified)  Chaperon sternwheel steamer 1884   Constructo Lady Smith kit/scratch build   

OcCre Santisima Trinidad Cross Section 

Constructo Robert E Lee Paddle Steamer  Constructo Louise, steam powered river boat   OcCre Bounty with cutaway hull 

Corel Scotland Baltic Ketch (not on MSW) OcCre Spirit of Mississippi paddle steamer (not on MSW)

In the Gallery:
 Mare Nostrum   Oesberg  Constructo Lady Smith   Constructo Robert E Lee   Constructo Louise   OcCre Bounty   OcCre Spirit of Mississippi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It all depend on the shape of the hull.  In any case, its best to test how a batten lays across the bulkheads or frames.  If they sit down nice then you are good to go.

 

Chuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike,

 

I was using a very flexible battern made out of holly to check the lay between frames while I progressively sanded to what I thought was a good result ( same as what I did on my Pegasus POF ) which turned out to be just enough to remove the laser char completely from the frames.

 

ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...