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Queen Anne Barge by JpR62 - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model - 1:24

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As my first planking on my Armed Virginia Sloop build fill my time since two weeks, I decided to begin a new build. It allow me to practice a new type of work during this repetitive phase on the AVS build.

When I began in this hobby, I was attracted at once by barges. Quickly, my choice was reduced to three models: the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipways, the english pinnace, an another Model Shipways model and the Queen Anne Barge from Syren Ship Model Company. You will notice that this three models were designed by the same developer : the great master Chuck Passaro.

It quickly seemed that the most appropriate choice lived in the Queen Anne Barge. And this for many reasons. At first, this model seem more suited to a modeler having not many experience. Chuck has designed a wonderful kit which contains all the elements necessary to simplify the work of the builder. The barge has only three strakes of planking. Furthermore, all oft he outboard planking has been pre-spiled and two sheets of laser cut planks are supplied, one fort he port and the second fort he starboard side.

The second reason form y choice, is the quality of the manual of instructions. Chuck must have been teacher and writer in a previous life… The manual is read as a novel and numerous photos illustrate the very precise explanations. You have only to follow the instructions and all will be fine.

The last reason is the quality oft he model. As with his previous model, the Cheerful  cutter, Chuck has again designed a  ´must to have´ kit. The quality of the laser cut is one of the best currently and the concept of the  kit is innovative. Everything is thought to simplify the work of the modelist. The Syren Ship Model Company is, for me, one of the leader in this market and I look forward to the next model…  It will be mine too.

I have the great fortune to be connected on this forum when Chuck announced the release of the first set of eleven Barge kits. I was lucky because within half an hour everything was sold…

One week later, my precious was at home.  Another indication of the seriousness of  the Syren Ship Model Company.

But now it's time for the build

You just notice that I used a piece of scrap 1/32" basswood to help me to center the two pieces on the top of the keel. So I have better luck that these two pieces have a regular 1/32" lip on both sides. For the rest, I just follow carefully the Chuck instructions...

It will be time to prepare the frames.

 

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In parallel of the build on the Armed Virginia Sloop, I work softly on this magnificent barge. I follow faithfully the instructions of the excellent manual. The instructions are precise and built on a very educational method. The teaching profession should have also been one of Chuck's professions in a previous life...

As I work in the computer world, I was able to print the manual on a good laser color printer. Just follow the instructions and take a lot of fun in the build of this kit.

Nothing is glued. It's just a test to see how it will be. Following the log of Rustyj, I notice that the two frames 0 should not face in the same directions. I will correct this when it will be time to glue the frames. That's the luck to follow build logs on this forum !

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My work on the Queen barge advance quietly.

I have glued the frames on the building board paying attention to the direction of each of them.

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Then I applied a coat of tung oil.

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Finally I have glued the planks #1 and #2 on each side of the barge.

 

For the plank #1, I begin on the port side and everything goes well. But when I bend the plank for the starboard side, I twist the plank in the wrong direction... Yes it's very easy to forget which way we need to twist it... And naturally when I try to twist it in the opposite direction happens what should happen... I broke the plank !

 

Luckily the Syren Ship Model Company provides an extra exterior barge planking set. As I had to order some cannons and swivel guns to upgrade the armement of my Armed Viriginia Sloop, I just had to add this set to my order. As always with my orders at Syren Ship Model Company, I received the packet in the same week.

And this time, when you take care of the direction of the twist everything is easier...

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Now I will work on the plank #3.

I just have clean the laser char. Its time to bend and twist. But I can work more quietly because this time I will be very careful on the direction of the twist...

 

 

 

 

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Great job Jean-Paul. Your log will help me avoid the same mistakes once I open the box😀. You mentioned that you applied tung oil. I take it then that there are no worries about glue adhering to the frames after that? Or do you sand those areas first?

 

ian 

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Thanks Ian and all the likes.

Ian, it's not really pure tung oil.

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It's a french product from 'Libéron' based on linseed oil and tung oil.

I did not sand down before gluing the planks. I use a drop of titebond original wood glue and a drop of zap medium CA+ to glue the planks. And I did not have any particular problem.

 

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Small advance of the week.

The second row of the planks was glued (plank 3# and 4#).

I followed the steps described in the manual. I have to confess a little deviation from the instructions. After bending and twisting the plank 3# with heat, I soaked the first two inches of the plank in hot water during a few minutes ant put it in place (without glue) to obtain a more precise shape. I waited the next day to start gluing it.

A little sanding is still needed on the lower outboard side near the bow to flush with the plank 1#.

Now, I will begin the last row.

I have a little question : as this last three planks are not clinker planked, is it useful to mark the edge of the planks with some 2B pencil ? It seems to me that no but I'm not sure...

 

 

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Any progress on your model.  You are doing a wonderful job on it.  Looking forward to seeing an update.

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Thanks Chuck for your kind support. As I work in parallel on the Armed Virginia  Sloop, it does not move very fast... I should probably finish the third row of planks this week. I will post an update shortly.

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In parallel with my work on the deck details of the Armed Virginia Sloop, I made a small advance on the build of the Queen Anne barge.

The last row of planks is over. I also measured and trimmed the planks at the stern. The flying transom was posed and the barge then takes its final shape.

Now it's time to remove the frame centers...

The construction of this model is a real pleasure the kit being for me an example of what is best on the market.

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A little question : As we can seen on the next picture, I kept a little overflow (perhaps a little less than 1/32") on the trimmed planks 7 and 6, exceeding the flying transom. Can I keep it or should I be level with the flying transom ?

Thanks in advance for the answer.

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Eventually you should sand it flush with the transom.....its looking really good.  Dont forget to add that small rectangle of planking forward of the last wide plank. :)

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Chuck, thanks for your little reminder on the last parts of the planking. The two small pieces have been added.

Andrew, this model ship is a must to have ! Syren Ship Model Company produced a little marvel !

And thanks to all the likes.

 

Just a small advance this week.

I have removed the model from the base. The key word is 'Take your time'. Go slow and push alternatively from port to starboard. I was a little worried before I started but finally this step happened more easily than expected. Just proceed slowly.

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Then I prepared the build board gluing together the two parts and adding cherry strips provided in the kit.

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Now it's time to remove the frame centers...

 

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Thanks for all the 'Likes'.

It's done. The frame centers were removed. I used for this step four different tools : I started cutting with a triangular files. Then I enlarged the cut with the semi-circular file (the rounded shape used on the inside of the hull). Then I continued using the little saw. The cut is delicately finished using the cutter.

Once again just one tip : work gently.

Only the first frame to remove is a little more complicate because we have little room to bend it... Then the workspace gets bigger and bigger...

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I just started to sand the tops of each frame down so they will be flush with the top of the planking. It's the preliminary step before to glue the cap rail.

 

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The cap rail is in place. The three sections were glued quite easily because the width of the pieces is generous. So no problem to position the cap rail. Just  make sure you have enough width when you will sand the pieces.

Sanding the cap rail was more time consuming than expected. After having sanding the outboard edge flush with the planking, I drew with a compass open to a width of 5/64" a line all along the top of the cap rail. I have the view of the area to be eliminated.

I completed this step in three work sessions. By chance it's the FIFA World Cup, so I was able to work while listening to the broadcast of the match on my TV.  You just have to stay calm when your favorite team scores a goal...   It was a bit more difficult during the Swiss-Serbia match !

I think that this step is important and that it is necessary to devote the necessary time because it gives you the final aspect of the barge.

I will now work on the floorboards.

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Thanks Christian and all the 'Likes'.

Christian, I can only agree with your remark : the design of this barge is a must !

 

While waiting to finish laying the boards of the center floor, I prepared the two others platforms.

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I just mark on side of each board with a a pigma brush from Sakura Corporation.

Looking at the picture, I realize that a small sanding on the sides is required...

 

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