AnobiumPunctatum

Narrow, not short, Alan. I forgot to add; accurate markout with a very sharp pencil is also critical for success!

Hull planking (prep)
One of the things I've been wanting to do was to see whether or not I could get away without having to spile the hull planks from 3/64" sheet. I was hoping that I could just edge bend boxwood planks to match a spiled shape. With that in mind I ran a test to see if indeed it could be done.
 
The sequence is a little off since I thought of taking the photos after some of the steps were completed. I retraced the steps as best I could. For better viewing I have focused in on a smaller area of the hull.
 
The first thing I did was to attach the hull template to my hull. I ran some 1/4" striping tape along the lower edge of the template and then back masked the upper edge of the tape. After that the original layer of tape was removed. You can see a bit of the back masking at the stem. I could have just drawn a line along the bottom of the template instead of using tape. Being a test of only one plank, I didn't want to do that. Hey, that's just me complicating things.

Here is the back masking (original taping removed) where the lower edge will line up with the upper edge of the plank.

 
I traced the lower edge of the tape (the shape for the upper edge of the plank). This gives me the shape needed for spiling or hopefully just some edge bending. You should be able to see the pencil marks across each frame.

The resulting shape resembles a gentle "S" curve. Something like this.

I was able to edge bend the boxwood to match the spiled shape without any difficulty. Clamping the test plank to the hull was done without having to do any twisting or bending. Mission accomplished!

Mike

Some progress
 
The taffrail capping pieces on both sides were completed and then I started work on the Quarter Piece blanks - fitting to the hull shape takes time - the extra meat left on these is for the relief carvings that will be added to them - the one you see in the picture is the 4th test piece and I’m sure there will be more!
 
 

The badge is really a masterpiece.

That is a brilliant idea.
I love the progress during your build.

Congratulation for building this wonderful small model.

Congratulation for building this wonderful small model.

It's time to put the dust away. Ten years ago I started with great enthusiasm the build of the small cutter. But to be honest I was not able to reconstruct the framing of the cutter. So I stopped after some time and paused the project. In October of 2022 I started a new try.
I lerned a lot and made a complete rework of my reconstruction. The first two pictures are showing a 3D-model which I used to check my lines.


 
As written in the old posts I was not happy with the frame design in Goodwins AotS Book. In my opinion, it does not fit into the time in which the cutter was built. There are several DoF plans of small ships of this era in the NMM. What almost all of them have in common is that the double frames were dissolved. A space was also left between the first futtock and the floortimber. However, the "double frames" were still connected by chocks.
 
The picture shows my reconstruction. I have it a little bit simplified, because I w like to plank the hull, so the shifted top timbers will not be visible. Many many thanks to @Chuck who gave me the inspiration for the simplification.
 

Since February last year I am working on the model. All parallel frames have been built in the meantime. I am now busy with a second version of the backbone.
The build is more or less a test to learn working with my CNC. In November I have started working on my sloop Fly again. The plan is to build and test the building methods on Alert and use this than for my ship sloop.

That is a brilliant idea.
I love the progress during your build.

It is looking really good.
 
One question I have is regarding the type of carronade used. Most primary sources I have been able to find seem to use the older style carronade mount for the 1780s and 90s. For example see this image from the RMG.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86779
 
These were originally adempted to be mounted inboard, but that didn't work as you noted due to he problem of setting the shrouds on fire. So they started to mount them outboard. Even as late as 1802 similar styles appear still to be in use, for example see this one from the Museum of Wales. You can see how the shape is starting to resemble the later shape now, but they still don't have the pin mechanism of elevation on the go yet. They are also still using the old style of carriage with the carronade attached 

There is also this one from 1796, which was made for a river barge that has a completely different configuration, but importantly note that there is no pin yet.

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-85086
 
What is the RA Library, I would be interested in seeing more info on the drawing as most examples I have seen of early carronades seem to not have the pin.

Carronades by Adrian B. Caruana  "The History of English Sea Ordnance"
The main reason for carronades mounted on the outboard principle is doubtless that throughout the American War and for most of the Revolutionary War the normal emplacement for carronades was on the forecastle, gangways or quarterdeck, where they were mounted en barbette in ports with no lids.
Anonymous drawings probably dating from the 1790's of a joint carronade mounted on the outboard principle, with all its fittings (R.A. Library)
I will be using cherry, dogwood, ebony, and ipe.  For the carronade I will turn it from 1" brass stock on my wood lathe,  but first I turned one out of wood for practice.

Rope coils around the fore mast

The following information is from "The History of English Sea Ordnance" by Adrian B. Caruana 

 

Loading and cleaning tools for the carronade and swivel gun.

A storage chest will be mounted to the deck   

I replaced the modern day hex head nuts with square nuts which were made out of 1/16" brass strips and drilled and tapped for 1.4mm threads

Here I am cutting the channel support brackets out of 1/8" copper

I used dogwood for all of the planking and ebony for the rails and channe
Mike

There is little available on carronades mounted on the 'outboard principle'. Some years ago I researched these mounts from the early 1780's. Contemporary illustrations are reproduced in Caruana's The History of English  Sea Ordnance 1523-1875, Volume II, pages 195 et seq. (The actual model's carronades were cast in pewter.)

Made and installed the main and mizzen mast steps. I simplified them as they won't be seen.

One thing was desperately needed to be added... a coin for good luck.
I have an 1896 Queen Victoria 5 cent Canadian silver coin. About 15.35 mm diameter.  It is quite battered up and worth about $12 max. on a good day.

I drilled out the bottom of the main mast step with a 5/8 spade bit, inserted the coin face up, and installed it in place permanently.

Am I ready to start the deck beams?
I think so.
Have to remove the masts first and put them back in storage.
 
 

Step by Step...
 

1. Laser cut cedar brickwork.   Lightly sand the char.  But not so much that you remove the etched mortar lines.   Just a little.  Especially on the edges of the pieces.   Many have bricks etched on both sides.
apply wipe on poly when finished...this is important to seal the wood a bit.
 

2. Yes its bright!!   But this is just the initial steps.  I used a red promarker, you can see which color to add the base coat of red to all faces of the brickwork.  Also note the two pieces that make up the sides have been glued together.  Make sure you have the holes and pieces facing the correct direction.
 

3.  Glue the sides to the back wall.  Keep nice right angles.   Also add the front piece.   This is left a bit long and you will have to trim it to fit.  DO NOT glue to the base.  This will be done much later in the project.   Much, much later.
 

4.  Using weathering powder add some red/brown colors and dark browns to suit.   It depends on how weathered you want to go with the fire hearth.  You will see this at the end.   Spray all the pieces lightly with some matte spray fixative when you are done.
 

5.  This is where the magic happens.   You could use white weathering powder but that would also pigment the bricks.  You dont really want that.   So instead use regular white flour.   Brush it on and push it into the mortar lines which are made pretty deep for you.   Dont go for a perfect even coverage here.  Experiment a little.  Push it in the cracks with your finger....pack it in there.  Then brush it off the brick faces with a light touch.  Experiment for the look you really want...use some additional weathering powders if you want to add soot and ash.   Make it a used hearth or a relatively new one!!!  Also note the frame on the base was painted black.  Dont spray with fixative.  The normal humidity in the air will fix the flour in position on its own.  It may take a day or so depending on the weather.  
 



6.  1/32" brass wire/rod (not included) were blackened and added as shown above.
 

 
7.  The hood...laser cut from 1/64" thick boxwood.   Glue the shorter back piece on the base first.  It should be a at a perfect right angle vertically and centered.

8.  Add the two sides.  You will need to bevel the bottom to sit flush on the base.
 

9.  Add the front piece...which is taller than the back piece.  Note how the front hangs over the the front of the base just a bit.  That is done on purpose.  It is correct.

10.  Finally add the top and front pieces.   apply filler to all the cracks and sand smooth for painting.   Also build the stack the same way and prepare for painting.
 

11. Hinges are laser board.   Construct them in the sequence shown above...left to right.   First add the bottom half of all the hinges.  Then the hinge pins are glued along the top edge.  Use 24 gauge black wire for that.  To finish that up,  set the top half of the hinges above the wire.  An eyebolt is also added in the center.  You can see that in the photos below of the finished fire hearth.  There are two of them shown...
 
A beat up used and weathered fire hearth....and a shiny almost new hearth.   Have fun with it and weather to your preferred tastes.  LOL
 



NOTE....the hearth is NOT glued to the base yet.  And the stack is NOT glued to the hood yet.  It is best to keep them separate for now. 
 
 
 

Finishing up the platforms with the ringbolts for the scuttle lids.  I also made a quick mock-up today of the fire hearth.  Unlike the Seawatch books I am deviating from the traditional stove.   I have built a lot of traditional iron stoves in my time.   Based on the original drafts and on the draft for the similar sloop Fly I am going with a brick fire hearth.   The contemporary draft is shown in the photos below.  You can clearly see the bricked up hearth.  I think it is a much more interesting fixture and its something I have never modelled before.  You guys can go either way...its up to you.  But I will only be making a mini kit for the fire hearth for the model.  This was actually very typical for sloops of this time period and I found a great deal of source info for these.
 
All of the brickwork is lasercut cedar.  The hood parts are thin boxwood sheet with laserboard hinges.   I will of course have to make another because I didnt take step by step photos.   I used a really easy and neat technique to weather those bricks.  I will detail that when the time comes.
 
The fire hearth isnt permanently added yet.   I will however glue the base onto the platform at this time.
 

Great idea, Chuck. Thanks for sharing this really simple measuring tool. I love such tools.

The next step was to create the bulkhead on the lower platform.   This was laser cut.   All I had to do was cut some 1/8" x 1/8" strips to simulate the vertical beams.  I just cut them to length and glued them on.   Now this piece may not actually fit your model perfectly.   There are just too many variables.   It all depends on where you placed that first platform beam.   It also depends on how you faired the interior of the hull.  But I sure it could be tweaked in most instances.   If you had to, you could use this as a starting point template to make another.  It isnt very difficult to do.
 

This is a picture of the bulkhead glued in position.  It is glued on the forward side of that first platform beam.   The templates are there to help me during the next step.   I will be adding the carlings and ledges.  They can be taken right from these templates which are on the plans.  
 

Here is a photo of the ledges and carlings completed.  These will support the scuttle lids once planking is finished.  I plan on planking the entire platforms.  I think it will make creating the various cabins a lot easier.
 

Planking is underway with 5/16" x 3/64" cedar strips.  I am not too concerned about getting up close to the sides of the hull.  Depending on how fairing went, this could sometimes lead to a weird shape along the edge of the platform.   So I concentrated on making a nice shape with the outer edge of the platform deck planking since the sides of the hull inboard will not be planked.  I am getting close to the side though and creating a consistent shape port and starboard.  It will be impossible to see the sides of this planking when done.  Once I get this done I will add the metal work (eyebolts with rings) for those scuttle lids.   Then its onto the two aft platforms which are done in a very similar way.   Also note the two cut-outs for the legs of the riding bitts.   The planks were cut so I could slip the riding bits down into those slots...hopefully!!!
 

Somebody asked to see a wider shot of the hull with the depth gauge in position.   So here is a picture of the hull all dusty after finishing the planking on those forward platforms.  Dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  
 

Great idea, Chuck. Thanks for sharing this really simple measuring tool. I love such tools.