AnobiumPunctatum

The keel is laid down.

The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.



Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.



The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
 

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

@Ed
 
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
 
 
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
 
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
 
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
 
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

Next step is the after deadwood.
 
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.


All components are put temporarily together

 
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:


As final step the template will be cut out:


The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site


Next step will be the port side.

Finished rigging the gaff today.  Nothing unusual or interesting about doing this.  It was fun and I basically created the gaff just like the boom.  One interesting feature to point out might be how the blocks are hooked to thimbles/bullseyes on the gaff.  The blocks were not just seized to the gaff.  This follows a method I saw on another cutter from the time period.  Just seemed more interesting than doing it the other way.
 
It has gotten harder to photograph now.  Its a much bigger subject to get in frame.
 
Next up will be the pendant tackles and shrouds....none of the falls or loose ends have been glued to their belaying points yet.  You can see them left a bit long on deck.  They are just made fast to each belying point and can be undone easily.  I did this just in case they have to be retensioned after the shrouds and stays are completed.  Some lines have a tendency to go slack as rigging progresses.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Terrific result, Montanes. But how did you get the first piece of the plug out of the model?

The serach for the lighting continues.
 
In the last months I searched a way to synchronize 2 kinds of flash  lighting. There are few information on internet, each company makes his own transmitter and very few want to mix  with other companies. But it is possible synchronize the 2 different kinds of flash I use. 
 
3 speedlites flashes installed on or  separate from a camera  and  2 strobes lighting on a light stand. Each system has his own transmitter and the solution is to find a way to fire all the flashes at the same time. Finally the solution is very easy and there is no need to buy any additionnal transmitter like Pocket wizard and this event if they said so in a video sponsorised by Pocket wizard.
 
The Canon speedlites are all synchronized in 1 group to flash at the same time. The other kind of strobes from Profoto  have a cell that detects the flash from Canon:  so they all can fire at the same time.
 
Last week, I went in a photography equipement show and I brought back a continuous  LED lighting. I measured it to compare with the other  lighting I have. It is even better than the best Lamp I have: 25,000 lux at 12 inches. The best Lamp I have is a Xenon light 19,800 lux at 12 inches and the worst I have are 3 halogens with 500 lux.
 
So if you want a good lighting to see every thing, this is the way to go.
 

Michael,  I am using Grumbacher acrylic paints in a tube.  Specifically Mars Black.
 
I finished the boom today and its all rigged.  It was shaped the same way as the mast.  I started with square stock and used the 7/10/7 ratio to convert to an octagon.   Then I used my drill to round it off and put the taper on it.   The jaws were added after I flattened the sides to accept them.
 
The blocks were prepared in advance, meaning some were added to the boom ahead of time.   Other blocks were secured to the mast and horse for sheets.   Then it was just a matter of rigging it in place.  I have only tightened the ropes around the cleats without any glue.  I will leave it this way until after the standing rigging is completed in case I have to re-tension the lines.  But from the way it looks I think it will be OK.
 
For the trucks on the jaws to secure the boom to the mast,  I used what I found in the shop.  I had some boxwood beads laying around that were the perfect size....I might even have enough left over to give the remainder to Mike for his model.   
 
Here are some pics.  Next up will be the gaff.
 

 

 

I figured the same Dan.   The lower mast has been completed and I am now working on the topmast.
 
To begin,  I started with square boxwood stock.  Then I squared up and tapered the top according to the plans using some chisels and sanding sticks.  But before doing that I drilled the holes for the sheave as you can see.  Once the top portion was squared off and tapered I finished up the sheave by rounding it off and cleaning it up.  You can also see the 7/10/7 ratio applied to the lower mast.  I am about to chisel it to an octagon in preparation for rounding it off.  The entire mast was left a bit long so I have some extra to chock it in my hand drill.
 

 
It was chocked and rounded off with some sandpaper.  I also carefull added the taper to the rounded portion while sanding it.
 

 
Then the boom rest was fabricated from a washer of boxwood 3/32" thick.  Just like the mast coat it was shaped with its profile using needle files and sanding sticks.  It was cut in half and then the small chocks were added around the perimeter after it was glued into position.  I still have to add the cleats around the base of the lower mast as well.
 
I made sure to make the mast hoops using the mini-kits from Syren and slip those on the mast before adding the trestle tree permanently.   I was afraid that I would forget but I didnt.  
 

 
The trees were crafted from boxwood using the plans as a guide.  It was pretty straight forward except for the fact that it must be angled properly on the mast.  Once the cheeks were shaped and glued to the mast the proper angle for the trees was filed into the mast.  The mast is angled or raked aft and the trees must remain parallel to the deck.  So considerable time was used to establish the correct angle.
 

 
Finally the cleats were added and the lower portion painted red.
 

 
Then the masthead area from the bottom of the cheeks upwards was painted black.  That was done after adding the mast bands and eyebolts.  These will be used for the boom and gaff rigging later.
 

 
 
 
 

To make Macedonian's lower masts, I looked at various sources.  This forum, Internet searches, period pieces like Steel's.  Photos of models.  But while I could see the end product, it was hard for me to visualize what was going on, or how it got to that point.  Lee's Masting and Rigging was, in some ways, the clearest and easiest to comprehend; my problem with Lee's is trying to pick MY time-frame from the stew of data he presents.  Often only parts of things change, so you have to piece it together; checks from 1800-1816, hounds from 1770-1820, rubbing paunch from 1810-, brains from Abby Normal, and that sort of thing.
 
For my 1812ish frigate it seems, if I interpret all this correctly, The mast can be a single piece with cheeks and rubbing paunch (used to be the front fish) added on.  It tapers from the deck to the top end.  From the top of the cheeks/hounds down, it's round except it's left flat on the sides where the cheeks attach.  The cheeks are rounded themselves to nearly blend into the mast, but there's a bit of a step or channel formed so they don't taper down to nothing at the sides.  The real hounds are a separate piece scarfed onto the cheeks.  I found it better to actually do this so they weren't in the way or getting damaged.  Lee's gives the proportions of these parts; for instance, the rubbing paunch is 1/3 the width of the mast.
 
I didn't put any taper in the space between decks, and the bury below the gundeck is 8-sided.  After shaping the core of the mast, I used strips of copper tape left-over from Constellation's bottom to make the banding.  Every-other band where the cheeks are is under them and need to go on before the cheeks.
 
It's not as clean and simple as Constellation's 1850's mast and spars, but it's not as complicated as it first appears.
 
My drawing of how I'm constructing Macedonian's masts.  The side views don't show the rubbing paunch.
 

 
Mainmast of HMS Impregnable showing cheek pieces and rubbing paunch.  There's filler blocks next to the cheeks for the banding that goes over the them - I don't see this for my 1810-1812 period.
 

 
Mizzen tapered

 
Fore tapered

 
Mizzen cheeks glued on


 
Mizzen banding over cheeks applied, and rubbing paunch attached.

 
Upper part of fore mast shaped and banding applied.  Port-side cheek piece is cut and shaped.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.   
 
Pat... I don't think DARPA will care... they have bigger lasers... much bigger like mulit-MW.  
 
 
Here's the update..  Center line planking is finished and sanded.  I've added the bitts that needed to be installed before the planking was done.  I'm working on the three ladders going down to the lower deck while I still have access to that.  I'd hate to drop one and then figure out how to fish it out.  Seems Mr. Murphy has been running rampant around these parts lately.
 
I'm also in the process of building the coamings and grates.  I'm going to put blue tape over them before doing the rest of the planking and ceiling just to keep crap from dropping down into the interior.  I'm still wanting to keep as much of the furniture out of the way as I can for the ceiling spalls so those other bits and pieces will have to wait.
 
As a sidenote, I only sanded of the loose char and ash as ended up with a nice thin black line between planks for the caulking.  
 
Pressing on.....    and as always, comments, critiques, better ideas, are always welcome.
 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 184 – Iron Mast Bands
 
Iron hoops, or bands were used to hold made mast sticks together and to reinforce single tree masts.  These were 4" wide and ½" thick and were spaced about 36" apart.  Circumference of the mast at the band location was measured and a ring of that diameter was forged.  To install on the mast the band was heated, slipped on by the smaller end and driven into place.  It was then quenched with water to create a tight shrink fit before it had a chance to char the mast.
 
The bands on the model are copper, made from .010" sheet stock sliced into 4" strips.  Once the bands are sized and silver-soldered, the main issues become fixing them in position on the mast and blackening them without getting visible black smudges on the mast.  The solution (no pun intended) I adopted was shellac – to be explained below.
 
First, a look at the (almost) final product.  In the first picture the main mast is fully hooped and the fore mast is in progress.
 
 

 
There are a few special bands on the main mast – to be described later. Also, on that mast, with the bands complete, the hounds are being fitted.  This cannot be done until the bands above main deck partners are slipped over the top.  The housing bands – below the deck – are slipped on from the bottom.
 
When the masts were made, I also shaped two mandrels to aid in making the bands, one the shape of the fore mast and one smaller.  These are shown in the next picture with main and fore masts in progress.
 

 
Except for overall length and housing length, the main and fore masts are virtually identical in their diameters.  The mandrels have pin holes drilled along their length for use as shown below.
 

 
In the picture a strip has been drilled on one end, pinned to the mandrel at the desired diameter, wrapped tightly with the copper strip, and then clamped in the vise.  The hammer and razor blade in the picture were used to cut squarely through the strip, yielding open rings as shown below.
 

 
I won't go through complete detail for sizing the rings, except to say that they were trimmed before soldering to yield a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of their position on the mast.  In the next picture a soldered ring has been fitted over the mandrel for filing and polishing.
 

 
In the next picture a ring is being pushed into its position in small, even steps using a piece of hard wood.
 

 
By the time it gets to where it belongs it will have been stretched and will be fairly tight on the mast. 
 
Before banding, the mast was given a coating of thinned, clear shellac for two reasons: 1) the shellac will act as a sealer and prevent excess blackening from staining the open wood grain, and 2) because the shellac is soluble in methanol, wetting under the ring with that solvent – as shown in the next picture – will dissolve the shellac and when dry it will contribute to the bond under the ring.   With few exceptions the rings were practically immovable after this step.
 

 
The copper rings were then blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  Best results were obtained by applying the LOS by rubbing with a cotton swab followed by an immediate and thorough rinse under a faucet to wash away excess black.  The method is still something of a work in process that will hopefully be fully developed for Volume III.
 
The "special" bands mentioned above – the futtock band and the lower yard truss band will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 183 – New Home Port 1
 
With the prospect of rigging work looming, it was time to think about a new birth for the Young America model – a new "home port."  Two requirements: 1) dust protection, an enclosure that would keep dust off the model and also provide necessary access for the work.  2) a larger shipway, large enough to provide a base for the dust enclosure.
 
The design for this is very similar to the enclosure I built for the Victory model, but larger.  In that earlier box I used foam board to enclose the sides. This is larger than the standard sizes and also I wanted the inside corners to be more seamless to provide a good photographic background for the many close up pictures that I expect to take during the work.  I am determined to build this entirely from scrap material of which I have a supply that needs to be consumed.
 
The first picture shows the new shipway.
 

 
The base is a disused, laminate coated, particle board kitchen panel painted with gloss white enamel. It is 61" long and 19" wide.  The width will allow the main yard to be squared with its retracted studding sail booms.  The length will accommodate the flying jibboom and the mizzen booms.  One of the hull drawings has been pasted to this and in the picture the board is being framed with pine sides.  These will keep the underside raised enough to allow the mounting bolts and also provide support for the upper parts of the case. 
 
The first work on ends is shown below.  Pieces for the 42" high end frames are ready for assembly.
 

 
In the next picture the lap joints of the end frames are being glued.
 

 
In the next picture the model is being mounted on the new shipway.
 

 
The copper wire strut is being used to very gently bring the hull into alignment using the square and triangle as guides.  The three mounting bolts and single blocks screwed into the base on each side hold the hull securely in this position.
 
The last picture shows the two assembled end frames and the top.  The top frame encloses a sheet of Plexiglas® that will allow overhead lights to illuminate the model.  The top has screwed corner gussets for additional rigidity and strength.  The 3/16" acrylic sheet is heavy.
 

 
The pieces shown may be assembled once the end panels are papered.  The side panels will then be made.  They will be easily removable without tools.  The ends and top may also be removed with a screwdriver.
 
Banding of the masts has been proceeding and will be the subject of the next part, but I wanted to interject this first work onn the case since it will begin to appear in pictures.
 
Ed
 

Thank you all! Continue the construction of the bulwark...

Thank You, Michael! I after primary school went to College at locksmith mechanical works. Today a little progress, alas, very little time for Hobbies.

Hi friends, thank you all cometarios you do, this encourages me and even more coming from such experienced modelers, thank you comrades.
Of course I will continue to pass images of the advances I am making.
The supports are made by me, the design is our companion Chimista, and can effectively adapt very well to our need.
Os paso pictures, saludos Liberto

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Thanks Tim, as we did not have a show n tell I did not bring it.
 
Moving along - the wales are in place with a reasonable fit to the lines and gunports.
I have used my other camera which is much better so here is a general view from the port bow.

Sunday 13 Nov 2016
 
I managed to sand and install the last two chocks.  My first attempt at sanding ended in the part disappearing under the stop (because it was so thin at 0.02" or 0.46mm) and being sucked up by the vacuum.  The chocks are hemlock and measure 10" in height (approx 5/32").  They are 9" on the plan but at this build scale who can tell the difference.
 

 
Drilled and installed the bolts into the frame and through the chocks then trimmed flush.
 
 
 
Cut and milled a blank of Costello 0.079" thick for the next frame set.  Cut that length in half and rubber glued them together, clamped and ready to trace the template and cut the frame pieces in matching pairs.
 

Here are the missing pictures from Post 115.