AnobiumPunctatum

She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates.  No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?

Finger still hurts a bit a week later but my model related injury hasn't stopped me !  Finishing Confederacy by year end or bust.....
 
Update - the foremast channels are installed.  I chose to paint Chucks nice boxwood deadeyes with Tamiya Flat Black paint.  If I use paint/dye again on my next model (which Im leaning more to a "Belgian school" approach of all Pear) I will not bother with Fiebings dye - Tamiya flat black with an overcoat of Watcos Danish Oil looks as good as Fiebings with far less trouble in application.  
 
This is may be my last build at this scale - thanks to a photo etch set from Model Expo Ive been able to realize the chainplate assemblies - soldering them this small would be a serious pain - kudos to you Rusty ! 

Saturday 08 OCT 2016
 
It took me three tries but the third was the charm.
The secret seems to be measure 50 times and cut minuscule slices and sand microscopic bits off until it fits.
 

 
Following that rule of thumb the others worked out fine!
 

 
Had to stop after three sets as my upper back, between my shoulder blades is getting sore.  It all relates to my neck fusion.  I'll be good to go again after a short bit of rest.

Thanks for looking in and either "liking" or commenting.  
 
Just a bit of an update.  Forgive me if I get longwinded as I'm thinking outloud here... and open to suggestion.
 
We're still slogging away at planking the lower (orlop) deck.  Thankfully, I have a Proxxon Belt Sander which makes tapering the planks go quickly and accurately.  I do finish fitting using sanding sticks though as a few times, things have got away from me ended up chewed up and across the room.  Fumble fingers I am.
 
The deck will still need serious sanding but that's on hold until after it's planked and the ceiling has been put it.  My thinking is why clean up two messes when I can do the whole thing once and clean up once.   
 
The mizzen mast step is in for location only and not glued.
 
This whole process has me thinking   further ahead than normal.. like the next two decks worth.  I should install two beams/carlings at each hatchway first then fully plank and cut out the hatchways after planking. The center planks do need to be tapered also (the raised planking) The hatches need to sit on top of the deck planks.  <facepalm>  I've also discovered that not all the hatches on this deck and the gundeck have grates.  Many have planks over the hatchways instead of grates.  
 
I'm also fiddling with plans and seeing if I can copy the Belle Poule planking scheme onto them.  This will let (hopefully) me cut the deck planks from a sheet of wood using the Deathstar.  The Great Cabin is still being researched.  The Belle Poule had a lozenge type parquet deck there.  Some other 8 pdr and 12 pdr frigates, just had straight planks...  so  I may end up flipping a coin.  Nah... I'm leaning towards the parquet and again, running the pattern up in Corel and lasercutting it.   I find I'm getting lazy in my old age.
 
Then there's the partitions on this deck and the gundeck (only 1 there) plus the cabins and storerooms.  I'm working on drawings to make templates for these.   It appears that the partition on the gundeck for the Great Cabin wasn't removable.  I'm still looking for info on this.  As a sidenote, the Great Cabin was a wardroom and not the Captains cabin.  There was a removable canvas partition in the center area for his bedplace which was taken down every morning.  The cabin itself and the quarter galleries was used by all the officers as a common room for meetings, rest, and meals.  There was a lot of complaining about this by the officers and even more after the edict was passed that roundhouses for the officers on the aft castle were not allowed.  They were allowed (unofficially) for awhile but had to be temporary in nature.  At the time of her capture, Licorne had quite a few which probably affected her handling.  I'm not putting those on as to my eye, they detract from her lines and appearance. 
 
I don't have the problem on this deck, but on the next up, using the Deathstar will let me mark accurately where all the eyebolts go around the main mast.
 
Anyway, enough out me.  Any thoughts or insights are, as always, appreciated.
 

Really nice work

Really nice work

Really nice work

A bit of offtopic, but not big enough to create a separate thread for it.
Friends from St.Petersburg sent these photos. A new playground in a bit of a hipster spot located next to the Naval Museum.
This area is an old navy storage facilities built 300 years ago, they were surrounded by channels to be accessible from boats. 
Semi-abandoned for years, with a lot of city myths surrounding the place. 
 

  Today a part of it is given to hipsters, and the place is filled with people again.
One of the things built recently is a playground that consists of a pretty nice replica of a period ship! The thing is big, and kids can go inside and play. Fascinating! 
Of course, the framing is a bit simplified, but it is still impressive:
 

 

 

 

Hello friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the  74 gun-ship.
Regards
Karl
 
T e i l  11

Welcome to the Triton shipyards

This is like a great foreign film...without the subtitles!

Friday 07 OCT 2016
 
Made my very first frame today.  Frame 28-Aft.  A short frame that runs from the stern deadwood to the lower group of transom pieces.   
 
Turned out better than I thought it would... but it is scrap.  Everything is perfect except for the fit of the foot to the dead wood which you can see in the photos.  The head mates perfectly.  The thickness tapers perfectly.  It is just the fit down below. 
 
I can't even hide it under the keelson as it stops just before frame 28.   
 
Let's see what I can manage the second time, eh? 

I don't think anyone has nailed a cant frame the first time they made one. Took me three sets of cants the first time around. Be prepared to scrap a few!

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log

Welcome to the Triton shipyards

Tuesday, September 20th, 2016
 
The finished model with the complete display case . . .
 
Now this model can be really considered a closed project.
 
It was a very interesting and valuable experience: the clinker planking, the viking culture and many other things.
 
Enjoy the attached images . . . bye, Jack. 
 
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Thank you very much, friends!!!
 
I started the final fixing of artillery:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moving forward!

The reason i chose Vimeo over YouTube was the quality. The down side to Vimeo is that ypu will need at leat 2m to view. Sorry about that.

@Aviaamator
 
perhaps it has something to do with your inter net connection. I am on holiday and have a slow connection. So I had also a little bit trouble to view the video. If I am back at home I will view it again.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 177 – Mounting Bower Anchors
 
The plan has been to suspend the wood stocked bower anchor from the starboard cathead as depicted in the picture of the ship docked at San Francisco.  The iron stock anchor is to be placed in its storage position on the port side of the forecastle.   The first picture shows mounting chocks and two securing eyebolts for anchor storage.
 

 
The next picture shows the iron-stocked bower anchor in position, secured by a rope lashing to eyebolts on the margin plank.
 

 
The positioning and means of securing the anchors is somewhat speculative, but typical.  In the next picture, eyebolts have been installed below the arms and a lashing is being touched with thinned white glue to secure the seizing.
 

 
In the next picture, the starboard anchor has been suspended from the trip chain on the cathead. 
 

 
The cable chain is also threaded on to the shackle.  This shackle has a threaded bolt which will be trimmed to size later.  A hooked brass rod can be seen inserted from above the windlass through the hawse hole to fish the chain under the forecastle.
 
The next picture shows the chain pulled through over the top of the windlass.
 

 
The string shown in the picture has been threaded over the windlass so the chain can be taken over for another turn.  In the next picture the chain has been wound over the windlass and dropped through the chain tube to the hold.
 

 
The last picture shows the suspended anchor ready for release.  The shackle bolt remains untrimmed at this stage.
 

 
The next step will be to make and install the smaller stream anchor.
 
 
 
Ed

Thanks for looking Mike40.
 
I am still waiting to get into the winter months where I have control of my humidity levels to start framing again, as per Druxeys advice that he always does his framing during the winter.
 
Be

Your dreadnought is looking really beautiful. Thanks for your interesting build log

Really nice section model, Frank