AnobiumPunctatum

Now comes a scary part, cutting a hole into the hull.  Mark the location for the hole based on the plan.  Since the port side is fully planked I had to cut out a segment of the frieze and some of the molding.  On the starboard side I removed a piece of ribband and one frame top.  Once the cathead is installed, I will replace that frame top and secure it with filler pieces on either side.  The cathead is inserted at an angle so the opening is directed downwards.
 

 

 

 
Referring back to the plan, note the angle that the cathead takes, insert it into the hole in the hull and place it under the third beam.  Mark the beam location on the cathead and cut out the mortise in the cathead.  Replace the cathead and temporarily place the second beam assembly on the deck clamp.  Mark this beam location on the cathead and cut the mortise for this beam as well.  
 

 

 

 
On my ship, possibly because of my previous measurement errors, the cathead crosses very close to the deck clamp.  As a result I needed to notch both the first beam and the under surface of the cathead to get it into place.  The unexpected benefit of this is that it locks everything securely into place.  With the cathead secured, the outboard face was sanded to make it perpendicular to the water line.  All the exposed edges were chamfered and the aft end was smoothed over, following the angle of the third beam.  Still to go are the holes for the sheaves, the sheaves themselves and the decorative cap.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Wonderful work Toni.

Work has started on the cat head.  This one piece has taken me over three hours to plan and fabricate.  I still have to install the sheaves and finish sand it.  I will show a few pictures today and will describe the steps of construction as I make the starboard one.
 

 

 

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

Thanks for showing the progress. That will  be very helpful

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

It was pointed out to me by the ever-observant Druxey that the lower chocks of my capstan were incorrectly shaped. The should indeed be concave. I was misled by some contemporary sources. After a short alcohol soak and they were removed and replaced with the proper shaped chocks. Also, a photo of my now pristine workshop (after an entire evening of cleaning). My new mantra - replace tools right after using them....(at least for a day or so). 
 
Thanks for all the like. David Antscherl is doing his part for the publication of the Speedwell book. I just need to catch up

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

Thanks for showing the progress. That will  be very helpful

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

Really nice progress in the last month. I like the accuracy of your build

The recent post on using a mill inspired me to post this report of my just-finished capstan. I used both the Sherline mill and lathe for the several steps required.
 
The square mortises for the capstan bars were added using a .079" milling bit and the rotary table. The top and bottom sections were milled to 1/2 of their 3 3/4" depth.

 
Following the milling procedure the two halves were glued together.

 
Once dry, the capstan drumhead was turned to it's final diameter on the lathe. The whelps were also milled  in one long strip and sliced off on the table saw. The mortises for the chocks were added on the table saw.

 
The capstan barrel was turned on the lathe and separated just below the taper.  Each end was center drilled then drilled to receive a brass pin.The slots for the whelps were added with a .090" end mill on the rotary table at sixty degree intervals.

 
The 3/4" bolt holes (#80 drill bit) for the capstan retaining bar pins and the cap piece were added with the drumhead again mounted in the rotary table.

 
Further holes were drilled for the whelp bolts in the drumhead and the chocks are being fitted.

 
The finished capstan (sans pawls).


 
The carnage to my workshop bench for which I spent the evening tidying up.

 
Apologize for the length of this post but I wanted to demonstrate how the fabrication of this complex piece could be accomplished by breaking it down to a series of small steps. For those without a mill or a lathe, I believe Chuck could easily make a kit of this by providing the drumhead in three slices. The rest would be straight forward with only shaping of the barrel (similar to Chuck's hexagonal pump) being required.
 

Now the funnels which will go on the boat deck. The funnels grill is very intricate and in many pieces which I had to make up a little jig and cut off and replace all the vent pipes and fabricate the pipes for and the horns. Also making up a funnel band and eyelets for rigging later. Came up nicely.

A bit of a re think and the deck has to go down so as not to catch on stuff. A simple exercise? No, after laying the thing down painstakingly, after a few hours the thing keeps popping up in sections. Using a sliver of PE and thin CA over the last few days I have been making running repairs to get the thing to sit properly. Still looks good and makes me happy with the guesstimate of the paint colour.
 
I have now down up all the boat deck and funnels but will now not paint or attach anything until I have done up the deck hatches.

As this part of the kit is fairly well covered up by the boat deck, not a great deal of detail was included. I replaced the search lights, added a front grill, cut off and replaced the winches, added fairleads and ladders.
 
Grey is such a boring colour after the other kits.

Ok, a heap of photo etch cut and painted off hull, .then added today. The brackets for the torpedo net booms, multiple side hatches (which for some reason Pontos chose to ignore) and a bit of dry brushing

The screw and shafts complete. I used some lovely G Factor brass ones specific to this kit.
 
I then placed on the depth markers. These are dry transfers which I have never used before but after a quick look on the internet on how to use them (no instructions were provided) they went on very easily. If you loom closely at the tird phot you can see the .3mm rings for the torpedo boom rigging.
 
This is now my Monday morning so back to the grind.   

The basic hull is now complete, lots of details to go, but the main painting is done. The armor bands came up OK.

Moving along! Primer coat done and the armor belts came up OK.  then the bottom of the hull. I want to leave it about 12 hours before I do the black band and upper hull. Over all I'm pretty happy so far. Before I do the grey top I want to add around 100 or eyelets to the side of the hull for the torpedo net boom rigging. They are so small I wont prime them as they will just fill up with paint.

As an aside, a mate did up some baseboards in Jarra which I will use tongue oil on and wax afterwards so i can finally add the Emden and Varyag to the "digital graveyard" of the complete kits section

Moving along with the hull, 120 porthole eyebrows added, and strips along the strengthening bars with microscopic rivets in them (you can see these on the original photos) as well as the flanges for the torpedo booms. Looks messy but it is yet to have its first proper primer coat.

There is no detail of the armor plates at all on the hull. So I did some masking in an attempt to have an under coat of plates, the main band running across the length of the hull did not work out too well so I had an epiphany and remembered the red tape I used on the emden, which is very thin and will do well after painting. But the time it has a couple of primer coats and a sand it should work out before the top coats.
 
The bilge keels also had a massive gap which needed filling.
 
A light sand then add the multiple porthole eyebrows. I know it looks rough now, but hopefully will not be so noticeable as it will be wearing a skirt (torpedo nets).

I've thought a longer time what I could write what was not written about this beautyful model.
I've no idea so I am sitting at my PC,  look at the screen and enjoy the pictures of your model

I've thought a longer time what I could write what was not written about this beautyful model.
I've no idea so I am sitting at my PC,  look at the screen and enjoy the pictures of your model