AnobiumPunctatum

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Index of this build
This is an idea I had partway through this build. The idea is to provide an outline of the build so future readers can find information more easily without wading through the entire comment thread or trying to find the right search terms. It's now linked in the opening post of this log.
 
Edit: I wrote up a whole post about this, intending to post it as a new idea, only to find that it had already been proposed last year. But I added my original idea writeup anyway, in case it's of interest to anyone. 
 
Laying out hull frames, first attempt
 
Reconsidering hull framing with new information
 
Laying out hull frames, second attempt
 
Hull framing continued, starting on bow & stern
 
Correcting stern framing, continuing stern & bow framing
 
Completing hull framing
 
Adding guard framing
 
Questioning bow planking
 
Adding deck beams
 
Planking the bow (following some excellent suggestions/discussion)
 
Planking, sanding, and painting hull; starting deck planking
 
Building the rudders; continuing deck planking
 
Building the paddle wheel
 
Images & information from re-visiting the Bertrand museum at DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge, Iowa
 
Discussion of steamboat wrecks on the Missouri
 
Engines & drivers
 
Main deck structures, framing in the boiler deck, hog chain braces
 
Boilers, main deck staircase, beginning boiler deck planking
 
Boiler deck completed, building main cabin structure with stateroom interiors
 
Framing & planking the hurricane deck, building the outhouses
 
Discussion of paddlewheel color
 
Pilot house, chimneys, railings, and the nearly completed model
 
Grasshopper spars
 
Final details
 
Final photos, part I
 
Final photos, part II

Grant, Ed, Tom,
 
thank you very much.

Lovely joinery Christian!

Lovely work, Christian.  This should be an impressive model at 3/8" to a foot.  I look forward to seeing you progress.
 
Ed

At 1:32 scale you should be able to build an enormous amount of detail into the model.
 
Tom

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Thanks, Dirk and Martin.
 
@Martin
 
Yes. I also mad treenails from pear veneer also in the smaller scale. But it's a lot more difficult, because the treenails broke very fast.. They are around 0.7mm; the new ones are around 0.95mm. In this scale I have much less waste.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

The keel is laid down.

The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.



Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.



The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

The keel is laid down.

The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.



Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.



The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
 

All frames are drawn and I started to build the keel.
 
Thanks for your interest and

 
and a Happy New Year

Today I've finished the drawing work for the frames. 55 frames and 26 cant frames are a lot stuff, which I have to build now.
 
The following picture shows frame 10a for example.
 

 
Now I have to clean up my work room and prepare the building board. I hope I've nothing forgotten so that I can make sawdust and start the build of my model

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

Druxey,
 
found your build log this morning. I'll follow your work with great interest and I am sure that I can learn a lot from your log. Thanks for sharing

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.