AnobiumPunctatum

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

Pintles
 
I made the rudder Pintles from 1.6mm thick brass sheet. First I milled most of the inside, leaving a thin piece at the bottom for strength while the rest of the work was carried out :
 

 
Then I cut each piece from the main sheet, sanded the angle at the fore end on the disc sander and drilled the holes for the Pins and bolts :
 

 
I filed out the thin centre and silver-soldered in the Pins :
 


 
Next job was to mill the rebates for the straps and recess the fore ends. For a Mill Cutter I ground the point of a 1.6mm drill flat - perfect tiny cutter (note - I only left a very short piece protruding from the chuck so it wouldn't snap off). The last two pics are of a dry-fitted pintle :
 



 
Then I lightly blackened them to simulate bronze :
 

 
And finally another dry-fit :
 



 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
Work continues on the Rudder. I've cut the tabled and glued-together Main Piece and Blade to the required angle and shape. I've also glued on the Backing Piece and Sole Piece, tapered the assembly from top (14") to bottom (10") and cut in the recesses for the Pintles :
 




 
  Danny

Hi Guys. Another update for you and this time as far back as we can go on the orlop, but has more to do with strengthen the transom's more then the Orlop deck. Some call them sleeper beams and Goodwin call's them transom knee's, which you can see on page 108 in his book Sailing Man of War,1650-1850.In the photo's you will also see the last beam of the gun deck along with knee's for the deck transom and the knees for the last deck beams. Most 3rd rates had three of them per side. Hope you enjoy the photo's folks.
 
 
 
 
 

Going on with the bulwarks. I’ve glued the rail and the upper planking using white glue(PVA) and also got rid off the casings.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets
(Best go into the set and choose slideshow)

Thanks, Grant and Martin.
 
Now it's on to finishing off the work on the hull portion of the build. The first item was the deadeyes and chains. The deadeyes are commercial. The chains are wire bent around simple nail jigs. The chain plates are brass strip. I also added the preventer bolts shown in TFFM. 
 
I then turned to doing the work on the head doing the knees, head rails, head timbers, gratings, seats of ease and boomkins.  The cathead supporters and eking rail were not shown in the kit and were made in accordance with TFFM. I also painted and installed the figurehead casting from the kit. The fore outer hull was finished by making the anchor billboard assembly as shown in TFFM and added the remaining moldings and the eyebolts needed for the rigging.
 
Last was the work in the midship area. This included the remaining cannon, the fixed gangways and their ladders and railings, the gangboards and their knees and and the gangboard railing. I also finished work on the chain pump handles and their supports.
 
Two items were made but not permanently installed at this point: the elmtree pumps and the swivel guns. The guns were from the Lumberyard, like the larger cannon  At this point, construction was suspended for about a year, waiting for the publication of Vol. IV of TFFM on masting and rigging.The last photos attached to this post show the completed hull prior to masting and rigging.
 
Bob

Next was the rails on the fore castle.
 

 

 
I added the brass pins for added strength.

 

 

 

 

 

This installment will also cover a wide area of work. The first is the quarter deck, which included a limited amount of planking; the hatches and gratings; the companionway ladder and railing; the skylight; the upper capstan; the breastwork; and various eyebolts.
 
Next was the stern, which included the transom; mounting of the rudder with it's hardware and chains; the rudder head housing, tiller, wheel and rigging; and the quarter badges. The kit transom didn't come close to that shown in TFFM, so I chose to scratch build something at  least similar to the book. The same was true for the quarter badges. With some work, I was able to use the kit's lantern parts and I also used the kit's castings, with some modification, for the transom carvings.
 
I then moved on to adding the main and mizzen channels, gun port lids, moldings, timberheads and blocks, swivel gun mounts and the quarter deck rail.
 
After that, I moved forward to do the forecastle. This included the catheads, some planking, the hatches and gratings, the belfry and breastwork, the galley cowl, the fore jeer and topsail sheet bitts and various eyebolts.
 
Lastly, I made and installed the fore timberheads and blocks, the fore channels, the fore swivel gun mounts and more moldings.
 
Bob

Wow, very clean and accurate build.

cont......

.....
 
                  rekon54

This next installment covers a wide range of work. Included are the quarter deck and forecastle framing; the bulkheads and partitions; the rudder trunk, transom planking and lockers in the great cabin; the manger and the upper breast hooks and bucklers. A good part of this ( e.g. the bulkheads, manger,cabin work) was scratch built, either because it was not included in the kit at all or was provided for only 1/2 the width. 
 
Also included are the making and mounting of those cannon under the quarter deck and forecastle; the riding bitts; the lower capstan; the chain pumps; the main jeer and topsail sheet bitts and the stove. The kit cannon were replaced by cannon from the Lumberyard because there were only eight in the kit and Bob Hunt would not provide another eight. The stove was scratch built from styrene following the plans in TFFM. 
 
Lastly, work on the outer hull began with painting of portions with blue and red; the hull steps; the fenders; chesstrees and some molding; the scuppers and the stern lights. I did not do the frieze painting because after some bad experiments I had no confidence at all about it.
 
Bob

Some years ago, when the kit first came out, I bought one from Bob Hunt (Lauckstreet). Unfortunately, that was well before I had ever heard of MSW and also well before I was aware of the TFFM books by David Antscherl. The kit appeared to provide an opportunity for someone like me without any power tools to build a fully framed model, without spending the rest of my life trying to cut all the framing by hand. While the kit had some shortcomings and problems (e.g. the provided building jig was more trouble than help), it did, in fact, allow me to build a boxwood fully framed model of a Swan class ship in 1:48 scale.
 
From the beginning, I decided on two major changes from the kit. First, I wanted to do a rigged model, rather than the hull only model provided for in the kit. Second, and in part as a result of the first decision, I chose to plank both sides of the upper hull and bulwarks, rather than only one side as provided in the kit. This led me to my first of a number of happy experiences with Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill, to get the additional wood needed.
 
By the time that I joined the original MSW, I had completed the hull framing and had planked the wales and upper outer hull. Sadly, I have no photos of any of that work. At about that time, I also obtained the first two volumes of TFFM, which then became an invaluable aid to the project. Reference to the books allowed me to make various changes and additions to the kit as I proceeded from that point. In hindsight, I regret that I didn't have the opportunity to see the kinds of spectacular work that has been done by Remco, Danny and Toni on their Swans and that I lacked the imagination or confidence to try to do that kind of interior detailing.
 
After completing the hull work, I took a pause of about a year to await the publication of TFFM Vol. 4, before doing the masting and rigging. I built the MS Syren during that pause.
 
This log will be a repost of those photos that I still have, together with some brief summary text. The pictures attached to this post are a couple of the completed model photos. Subsequent posts will begin with the work after framing and hull planking.
 
Bob

As I previously indicated, when I joined the original MSW, framing of the hull and planking of the outer upper hull had been completed. The most difficult problems with the framing were caused by the building jig, particularly in the bow. In the end, I basically discarded the jig, using only the bolts through the keel and the through the jig base, and the stem and stern supports. Unfortunately, I have no photos at all of any of this work. My first photo is of the hull at this stage of completion. At this point, I had also made and installed the various breasthooks and mast steps and had also done the deck clamps as a means of strengthening the hull for fairing and planking.   Among the many " I wish I hads" on this build is my failure to treenail the planking.
 
From that point, I proceeded to do the lower well and shot locker and then the upper well.  Another of my "I wish I hads" was not doing more of the lower interior detailng. Next for me was the gun deck framing. The kit simplified the deck framing construction by providing layered beams and carlings that created mortises without the need for cutting. A clever, if unprototypical, method. I also added the waterway and a limited amount of deck planking at the edges and center.
 
I made and added the fixed blocks and sheaves. I  added the bulwark planking. I had decided to paint portions of the ship, including the bulwarks, which were painted red. 
 
The last additional work shown in this installment are hardware and fittings such as eyebolts, ringbolts and cleats that were installed on the bulwarks and decking and the gundeck hatches and gratings, mast partners and lower capstan base.
 
Bob

Hello friends,
 
mounting of the gun ports.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  22

Thank you very much John, Janos, Doris, Amfibius, and Adeline - I'm glad you all appreciate the effort gone into this piece. It's been a heap of fun building it .
 
Almost finished with the Capstans - I've fitted all the bolts. There are 10 brass ones (they should be iron, but I've used brass so they can be seen) in each reinforcing ring, as well as the 0.35mm holes for the bar retaining pins. The pics with the sidecutters give you an idea of how small these "bolts" are - the last one to be fitted is lying on top of the drumhead in one of the pics.
 
I've used blackened brass "bolts" for the remainder.
 
 





 
  Danny

Hello friends.
Design, construction and mounting of ancher.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  21

Beautifully done Remco, but if I'm not mistaken Greg has just issued you another "challenge".  I look forward to your response! 

...

T e i l 19

Wonderful work. I like the construction of the deck beams.

Really nice start of your model

Here are some more pictures for you Joe.
 
The lower deck hook/eking piece was made next.  This is constructed from three pieces of wood hook scarfed together.  Another difference from TFFM was found with this piece.  The book shows the upper surface of the hook flat whereas the draughts show a rebate at the fore end of the hook.  This would allow the deck planking to end on the hook rather than at the footwaling.  The pictures show the sequence of construction of the eking piece, beam 1 and their associated carling, ledges and pillar.  There is a deliberate gap at the lateral edge of the hook and beam because I am not installing any of the footwaling.
 
Lower Deck Hook
           
 
 
The second beam, with its knees, carlings and ledges was installed next.
 
Lower Deck Second Beam
   

The fore platform bulkheads are less complicated than the aft ones.  Everything is at a right angle in contrast to the odd corners aft.  There is some difference in the door configuration between TFFM and the Atalanta draughts.  Greg’s Pegasus also has this configuration (as seen in TFFM vol.3).
 
Fore Platform Bulkheads
 
 
This picture shows how the well lines up with the aft platform structures.  The well will not be glued in place until the lower deck has been partially assembled.  The color contrast shows where the finish has been applied.
 

 
 
 

Dan,
 
thanks a lot for the whole work of rebuilding your beautyful log. Thanks for the lot of work you've done.
One of my primary sources is back and I can look how you did things.
 
Thanks very much