AnobiumPunctatum

If I see your new kit and some frome CAF and other manufacturers I asked myself why I started scratch building.
Really wonderful with a lot of innovative ideas.

If I see your new kit and some frome CAF and other manufacturers I asked myself why I started scratch building.
Really wonderful with a lot of innovative ideas.

Just a quick update.  It might not look like a lot of work was done since my last post but you would be surprised how involved the deck beams can be.
 
With the cabins on the fore lower platform completed,  you can start adding deck beams above them.  No reason to wait until everything is built below deck to do so.  In fact, waiting to do it all at one time wont be very enjoyable.  Doing it this way breaks up the task a bit.
 
This kit will be very simplified compared to the books.  Because we will be planking the gun deck in the "classic" contemporary model style,  there is absolutely no need to make and add the hanging and lodging knees.   In fact, this would up the difficulty factor by about ten.   So we will just be adding the deck beams with all of the carlings and ledges.  You can however follow the Seawatch books and scratch build the knees should you really want the total experience.
 
 
The photo below has a lot going on that was completed.
 

First, The first four deck beams were glued into position...
 
Then the carlings were added between them as shown on the plans.  The carling are cut to length using 3/16 x 5/32 strips.   
 
Lastly you may notice that the after most beams have a column under them at the center.   These are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length.  The corners are chamfered as shown on the plans.
 
With the first four beams added you can now add the ledges.   These are the thinner "partial beams" that extend from the carlings to the deck clamp.  They are laser cut for you with a special "leg" on the outboard ends.   This raises each ledge to the perfect height so it will be flush with the top of the gun deck beams.  So when you are cleaning the char off these...DONT sand the bottom or even the end with this "leg" on it.  Otherwise you wont have level ledges with your beams.    Hope that makes sense.
 
Now in that same photo above you can see the first few ledges (cleaned of laser char...no need to clean the bottom at all actually) resting in position.  All you have to do is cut the end that sits against the carling and glue it on position.
 
NOTE:  Now yes indeed...all of the carlings should be notched in the deck beams.   All of the ledges should be notched into the carlings.  But you know what...I am not going to do that.  And you dont have to either.  It simplifies things so much this way and those many mortices and notches are not so easy to make.  They will also mostly be completely covered up.   So you can decide.
 
 
Now this may all seem simple enough.  But finding the exact locations for these beams, carlings and ledges is super important.  Time and care must be taken to get their location correct....otherwise you will end up with hatches in the wrong  position and mast holes too!!  It could get ugly.
 
So use the plans.   If you have a second set printed.  Go ahead and cut them up.  You can see strategically placed cut outs on the template that allowed me to mark the locations of the carlings on the beams....and the ledges on the carlings.   This template also helped me position the deck beams properly which is the very first thing you need to do.  Finding you center line on those deck beams after they installed is also a huge help.  Gluing the parts in is easy enough...but the marking, measuring and planning takes time and patience.

 
Then its just a matter of cutting all of those ledges to length and gluing them in position.   There are a lot of them.  I believe 86 in total.   Note that these would also be down the center between the carlings and hatches also.  But once again they will be entirely covered up and its just a repetitive exercise that nobody will ever see.
 

To show you how the knees and other details like the ledges wont be seen...here is a look at this area with the deck planking cut and placed on the model as a test.  This shows what will be very close to the final appearance using the "classic contemporary model appearance".   But everyone can always deviate from that should they want to.
 

 
 

Tafrail complete

You’ll notice that I don’t try to sanitize my work, however humbling that of so many on this forum is to me. The dirt, dust and imperfections, however, are the real thing. The important message I try to convey in sharing my stuff is that there are no short cuts, that the time and effort, as well as the imperfections, are there, in plain view. While I follow many of your builds and am inspired beyond words by your images, which render me speechless, I will continue to share my progress and learn from your example. Thank you.
Henry

Yes, Richard Endsor's excellent books are from the 1670 to 1690 period - about a century earlier. Look at some of SeaWatchBooks' offerings that cover the 1760 to 1790 time period. 
 
There were excellent articles on 18th century ship construction by David White in Model Shipwright years ago. They appeared in issue numbers as follows:
 
On Traditional wooden shipbuilding:  47, 49. 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63
 
Understanding ships' draughts: 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 58
 

Pegasus emerges

Plankshears, swivel gun mounts and head cheeks.

Thank you guys...
 
I took a crack at the sailroom.
 
First I had to make the posts for the partitions.
 
There are thin laser cut strips that need to be glued to the sides of some 3/32" x 3/32" strips.   It might be hard to see but the laser cut strips are wider than needed.   You have to line up the open side with the edge of the 3/32" strip.  Let the other side hang over.   The upright on the left shows this.  Once the glue dries, you can sand that overhang down flush with the 3/32" strip.  This will leave rows of slanted slots for the louvers.   They should be open on both sides after sanding off the overhang.   There is also a long slot down the front edge that is created.  This is for the planked bottom of each partition.  
 
It is all shown on the plans.   The corner post gets two of these laser cut strips with the notches.  Just be careful when you glue them on so they are facing the right direction and the louvers will be able to slip into the slots easily.
 

Next I added the laser cut planked bottoms.  This essentially makes a nice two-sided partition.  The planking will fit into those long notches on the posts.  It is probably easier to see them in the photo below.  Keep a nice 90 degree corner with both sides.
 

Then its time to fit all of the louvers...for ventilation.
 
They are 3/32" x 1/64" strips.  Just cut them to length and start adding them.  Eight on each panel.
 

To finish off the sailroom..I made the door.  This is in two layers like all of the other bulkheads.   I made the door up and added the hinges and door handles.  Then I glued it to the louvered section of the sailroom.
 
Like this.
 

 
Now I could easily position the entire sailroom...hopefully.  It should line up and fit onto the 3/32" post already on the boatswains cabin.     And yes...we can finally glue the riding bitts into position permanently.
 

This pretty much finishes the cabins at the bow.   I was originally going to add a sail rack in the sailroom.  But after a lot of thought I realized it would never be seen.  The sailroom is pretty much covered up entirely by the deck planking and the deck beams.
 
In this photo I have fitted the deck beams as a test.  There will be several more between these larger deck beams too.   There are thin 3/32" deck beams...sometimes 3 or 4 between each of these larger deck beams.  They will obscure so much of the lower deck items.  But hopefully you will get a glimpse of some of this stuff as it is quite a bit of work to build it all.
 

 
The contemporary model with its many deck beams..
 

 
 

Yes indeed.   I am however probably going to stick with the how the cont. model was portrayed.  Its easy enough to add a few more swivel stocks for folks who want to add them.  Builders choice.  Aesthetically, they just ruin the elegant run of the sheer to my eye.   If I were to include them however I would certainly add a rope railing with stanchions along the poop as shown on that draft detail I posted of "Fly".    I think it would make sense to my eye anyway.   But I am going to stick with just the few swivels mounted at the bow.  I have gone with the model for so many other things.....number and position of timberheads etc.  Although I have also been swayed on some other things shown on the original draft as opposed to the model.   Its a trade-off.   Once you start looking you will spot so many differences....between all of these primary source references.   I forget how many swivels you ended up with per side.   Seven or eight?  
 
The draft for Cruiser does show a heck of a lot more swivels...as shown below (bottom).   Just to show folks who will build the kit and want to go another way.
 
Cont model with two swivel stocks per side.
 

Speedwell draft with two swivel stocks per side.

 
Cruiser class draft with 10 swivel stocks per side.  Very different appearance with the open sheer rails as well.
 

Concerning the low/lack of bulwarks on the quarter deck, there would have been stanchions with man-ropes along the sides there.

Yes thats what I figured.  I usually dont have so many original drafts or
contemporary sources as is the case with Speedwell.  And when they are so different it makes for too many choices.  LOL
 
But she will be pretty when all finished no matter which way you choose.
 
Chuck
 
 

Lovely work, Chuck, but what the heck is that officer doing forward in the galley? Warming his hands?

More details inboard...sneak peak...

The Gunports

This is a great way  to go.  An alternative that I switched to some years ago is to print on full size sheets of label paper.  Cut out the drawing of the part somewhere near the lines, peel off the backing and stick on the wood.  Once the wood part is cut and sanded to the lines I find it easier to remove the paper and clean up compared to rubber cement or other glues.  I do try to print as many parts as possible on a standard 8.5"X11" page to save on paper.
Allan

I like to use paper templates held down with acid free rubber cement or even Elmer's School glue. I have always found that it's better to leave a little wiggle room when cutting the outline. In certain cases, rather than shaping each section individually, I just cut the joints accurately and then join the various sections together. After doing that it's easier to get a more accurate outline of the joined parts while the templates are still attached.  I'm not suggesting that you would do that with the stem and keel pieces. Just something that you might consider doing in the future.
 
Here is an example of this from my Speedwell build.

Mike

Hi All
Thanks for the likes
@GrandpaPhil hope you start back on your card version, it's looking good so far
@jpalmer1970 thanks, happy to have you along
 
 
Ok, stem part next....this has been broken down into its component parts and glued up
 


 
 

 
I've milled some cherry to a 6mm thickness for the stem, keel/false keel and stern post pieces and mixed some black acrylic paint into PVA glue for the joints.  Some of the joints are not perfectly tight but I'm fairly happy for a first attempt
 
All glued to the "keel" piece

 
I've scored a line along the cherry 1mm in from the "keel" piece (if you zoom in really close you can just see it) , I'll cut this away after the first planking to use as a rabbet for the 2nd planking.  I'm hoping the scoring will help in a smooth removal
 
The 6mm cherry is centered  on the 3mm "keel" leaving 1.5mm on each side to take the 1st planking which will be.......yeah, you guessed it 1.5mm in thickness.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Mark
 
Mark
 
 
 

Progress on the head construction. 

Main elements of the head completed. Does anyone know of a good resource for relief carving? 

In contemplating the netting for the birthing rail, the gauge is just too narrow for my skills to undertake. Does anyone have a resource for its purchase? I have some which I bought for my Gros Ventre but it’s black. Maybe I ‘ll spray it tan, which is the preferred color, unless there are better recommendations.

Just a heads up...I have decided to make the plan sheets for this project available electronically.  Many have asked for an additional set so they can cut them up or so they can have a clean extra set.  Although I am printing them and including them with each appropriate laser cut installment,  some folks may be worried about stretching and or shrinking of the folded paper plans provided as well.   So to ensure there are no issues they are available electronically and can be printed on your own for a spare set to cut up as well.  I routinely cut them up myself to use for templates and such.  Since no framing parts are included there really isnt a concern that this will lead to copying of my kit design.  Not all laser cut parts are shown on the plans...for good reason.
 
So here are the first three....plan sheets completed.  The remaining will be added to my website once I am sure they are OK, after I build those areas of my prototype.
 
They are also available on my website
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
 
 
 

Off to the dry dock with the Mikasa.
 

 
There’s enough space in here on the port and starboard sides to protect the ship while you’re tinkering without it becoming too big and unwieldy..
 

 
This means it can be safely laid on its side, for example to work on the portholes.
 

 
I can also attach sheet pile walls of different heights to further increase the protection at the top.
 

 
Let’s attach the first large etched parts. The anchor supports…
 

 
…and the doors at the rear. The ship also had electrical cables all around the back. What purpose they had, however, is unknown to me. It will not have been demagnetizing cables.
 

 
In another forum a user asked me how I work with acrylic etched part glue.
 

 
I would like to show this using the rain deflectors of the portholes as an example.
We need an old brush, some paper towel, a little water and the glue. I dilute this until it has about the consistency of buttermilk.
 

 
Then I draw a guide line with adhesive tape to attach the etched parts neatly and straight.
 

 
 
Now I put a ring of glue around the porthole.
 

 
Then in with the etched part. The big advantage is that you have a very long time to properly align the component. Completely in contrast to superglue.
 

 
After I have aligned it, I pick up the excess glue again with the brush that has been cleaned in water and dried on the paper towel.
 

 
I can easily remove any edges of the glue with a dampened brush. This is also not possible with superglue.
 

 
The slight shine of the dried glue can no longer be seen after painting.
 

 
And so you get rain deflectors on the portholes like a string of pearls, which are also glued on extremely neatly.
 

Work continues on the forecastle area.   With those first two beams in position I can now start working on the bulkhead that sits against them.
 
In this first picture,  I am just test fitting the three sections of laser cut bulkhead.   These (like all others)  are laser cut slightly wider and taller than needed.  
 
First...work on getting a nice fit on the center section between the riding bits.  Only worry about the width on both sides...dont worry about the height of these yet.  The two pieces on either side are next...sand the outboard side ONLY to reduce the width and get a tight fit against the riding bitts.  There will be a space between the frames and the bulkhead where the inboard planking would have been.  Try and make it a consistent width.  Again dont worry about the height.
 
Only after you get the widths taken care of should you then sand the top of each bulkhead section down so the height is flush with the top of the lower beam.  The photo shows the three sections with a proper fit all around...now its time to detail them.

Remove the three sections so you can add the uprights and simulated deck beam.  First up...sand the char from the laser cut beam pieces.   These are glued to the top edge of each bulkhead flush.  They are laser cut longer than needed so you can sand the sides flush as well.
 
Then the uprights go in position.  These are the uprights for the cabins on the lower platform.  We will be adding them a little later.  But it is easier to add these now.  They are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length and glued in place.  There are laser etched lines that show you exactly where they should go.   

 
Then glue the three sections in position permanently on the model.  Note the riding bitts will not be glued on permanently yet.  They will just get in the way when we are doing so many other things in this chapter.  So make sure you can remove it after the three sections are glued in place.
 

Riding bitts removed.

 
Now for the next layer above that.   this is handled in the exact same way.   I could have just included these on the first three section only a bit taller, but I wanted to be able to paint them cleanly and get a crisp edge.  But the same principle applies here.  Sand the widths of each first....then get the heights done.  These are flush with the top of the fcastle deck beam.   Then remove them.....
 
Paint them red.   Then add the laser cut and etched molding along the top edge.   The molding was rounded off on top and bottom.  You could also scrape your own if you want to.  
 

Then sit this on top of the lower sections of bulkhead as shown below.  The riding bitts are still removable but you must use them to get a good fit.  Glue these bulkhead sections in position now as well.
 

 
Top this off with the margin plank along the beam.  Cut a 1/4" x 3/64" strip for this.  Basically, just like you added for the quarter deck margin plank.  It hangs over the bulkhead a little bit.   The aft edge hanging over is rounded off a bit to your liking.   The forward side will leave a nice ledge or rabbet for the fcastle deck planking.
 
The only difference here is that you must notch out this plank for the riding bitts.
 
see below.   Also the riding bitts are not yet glued in position...I will let you know when its best to glue that in position.  BUT I did finally glue the fire hearth in place permanently.   Just remember to do so without its stack.  That will just break off later without a doubt.  And if you want to add anything else to the galley...do it now.   We are about to close her up for good with deck beams and knees, etc.


The three fcastle deck beams were cut to length and are just resting on the deck clamps.  I must locate their exact positions using the plans.
 

 
Thats it for now...BUT I did get a chance to cut the plan sheet up to see how my planking design will look.  Its always tricky deciding how much planking to add or leave off the model.  I think I am liking this particular cut-away with some planking removed.  You can still see quite a bit of stuff down there...
 
The hearth stack was just placed on top for giggles and a test.
 

 
I also did the same for the quarter deck...once again plenty of detail is still viewable down there.   I will live with these templates for a while and mull over some other possible planking schemes.  But so far I think these will do just nicely.  What do you think?

 

This is looking really really good.