AnobiumPunctatum

Good morning.

I completely understand the reasoning, that fact never crossed my mind. 
Thankyou for your replies, and considerations on the idea. 
Cheers 

The Board discussed your request again last night, Christian and Ed.  We will not be offering the kit in a plans and manual only version.  There were several issues raised but the most critical is the fact that this is aimed at the novice model builder.  They would not be expected to have the necessary equipment and skill to be able to accurately cut out the components.  

Really great progress, Jorge

Some detail close up shots of the rigging

Yes I agree, I dont think that would work or even look good.  I just spray it with some fixative and it looks good to me.  If you wanted to, you could always use it as a paint by numbers sort of thing and just paint on top of the printed frieze.  But I think the printout looks better than anything I have seen short of just painting it from scratch.
 
I did finish the roof today...
 
The roof is laser cut and 1/4" thick.  It has a laser etched reference line to show you where to bevel it to the "sloped" shape needed.

Then I used some laser cut shingles and added them to the roof.   Three rows as is typical.  After each row starting with the bottom, I sanded the shingles very thin....paper thin almost.  The tops were sanded flush with the roof to accept the next row.  Then I repeated it....until completed.  There are marks on each shingle to help you position the second and third rows.

Then the roof and tiles was painted black.  But the tiles are more of a dark slate gray.  So I weathered them a bit so it wasnt a stark black.  Then I added a thin molding on top as you can see.  This is also laser cut but it also needs to be sanded thinner.  1/32" is too thick.  I sanded it to about 1/64" thick.
 


 
At this stage I still havent glued the shingled roof in position.  So resist the urge.  Before finishing up this quarter gallery I want to now start on the one on the port side.  Once that is completed up to this stage I will finish the both of them.  The fancy rail along the roof still needs to be added.  But that is better done after the friezes are glued to the sides of the hull.  So I have to finish those up first.  And finally some inspiration and reference which you can compare to my interpretation.  Although I used the draft to correct any differences with the contemporary model.
 


 
 
Chuck
 
 

Hi Toni,
 
sorry to hear that, but I respect your decision.

Hi Toni,
 
sorry to hear that, but I respect your decision.

Hi Toni,
 
sorry to hear that, but I respect your decision.

Hi Toni,
 
sorry to hear that, but I respect your decision.

See my post 😉

Hope this helps: 1/48 * x = 1/35 ==> x = 48/35 = 1.3714 or 137.14%

Hi all,
 
I know, that you have prepared some kits, but I like to ask, if it is possible to make the drawings and description available for members out of the US (for me Germany) . I like to give this small project a try but with shipping costs and tax it will become to expansive for me for a training project

Hi all,
 
I know, that you have prepared some kits, but I like to ask, if it is possible to make the drawings and description available for members out of the US (for me Germany) . I like to give this small project a try but with shipping costs and tax it will become to expansive for me for a training project

The outboard edges of the transom planks are protected by a black decorative strip.  This was carried down across the bottom of the transom to seal the junction of the transom and counter.  This was done with one piece of basswood that had been wet and then slowly bent to the required shape.  Finally, the taffrail was installed.


The hull is now completed.  At this point one could add treenails but I have chosen not to...maybe some day.  I was asked about ports by one of our members.  If one were to install ports, it would be necessary to finish the inside of the hull, as this would be visible through the ports.  Although possible with the use of sanding discs, it would take a lot of effort to remove the frames.  Don't forget that these frames were selected for strength so the hull would be stable during construction.  There was never any thought that they might be trimmed/removed later.
 
The hull is finished with one coat of Watco's Danish Wood oil and then buffed with a cotton cloth.

The hull was removed from the building board by inserting a razor blade inserted between the hull and the paper pattern.  It is surprising how strong this hull is.  I do not plan on mounting her but if one wanted to I would suggest covering the open parts of the hull with a sheet of basswood, either left natural or painted black.
Here is the final result.  I hope this project will encourage some of you to take the plunge and plank your next hull the way it was originally done.

 
 

Now that the hull is perfectly smooth, the second layer of the wale will be installed.  Since I had saved the template for the first layer of wale planking, it was easy to cut out two more pieces.  Just for fun I made a hook scarf connecting the two pieces.  To to this I made the mating edge of the planks longer to take up the scarf.  The scarf was drawn onto the plank and cut out with the knife.  I dyed the joint edges and the sides of the planks before installing.



At the bow, the wale ends in the rabbet.  Since the rabbet does not become wider to accommodate the wale, the wale decreases in thickness as it enters the rabbet.

Something similar occurs at the stern.  The picture shows the wale tapering in thickness as it approaches the counter.  The counter has not been planked at this point but after it has been, the wale will be sanded down to fay into the counter planking.

 
 

This looks great, Chuck

I have used regular copy paper in the past.  It works fine.  But I am toying around with the idea of experimenting with acid free tissue paper.  Its the same stuff that I use for flags.  In theory it will be easier to hide the cut edges and fold it in place.  Then trim off the excess.  But that is just a theory.  I will try it out tonight.  This test was just done with plain old copy paper.  You can see how the edge turns white after cutting.  I usually use a soft pastel pencil to color this edge....but I am thinking this wont be needed with the tissue paper.
 

 
Chuck

Planking is FUN!!
 

Hi, it's been a while since I've been on the Xsection, but had extra couple of hours in the workroom so made up one of the gangways. The brackets are wood and not metal but I don't think it matters to much. I can't fit it til I've rigged the cannon. Still got the other one to make.
That's next time though. 
Cheers. 
Thanks to all for the likes and looking in 👍😀

Hi all, just a quick post, finished the planking on the gundeck and gave it a coat of matt varnish. 
I've done some treenails on the hull planking that I put on for a test. Not sure whether I got it right 
Till next time 
Cheers 
Thanks for the likes 👍

Happy thanksgiving guys!!!!
 
I woke up this morning and hit the head.  Took a selfie with my phone.   Then I started working on the model,  Here I am inspecting the quarter galleries.  The 1/4" scale figure was painted by a friend of mine in my local club.  He made it look like me.
 

Work has started on the qgallery framing....
 
The continuation of the upper counter is of course first.  Based on the reference marks from my template, I added the two beams that represent the top and bottom framing.  The top frame is 1/8" thick.  They are all laser cut for you by the way although a bit longer.  The top frame needs to be beveled to sit properly against the transom edge.    This image is from the 3/16" scale model and it shows the framing best.  You can see the bevels and fairing outboard.

On top of the upper qgallery frame sits a laser cut piece that is very thin.  It is just 1/32" x 1/32".  But it is curved to follow the inside curve of the frame.  This will become important later.  You should add this now.  Here is what that looks like on the new model.  Also note the pie shaped piece that forms the lower frame.  This is 1/16" thick.  The aft edge is beveled to fit under the edge of the transom.  You can see that this lower piece follows the same angle as the top frame.
 

Once these frames are glued on the outside edges must be faired just like the hull would be.  This is in preparation for the planking that will be glued to form the upper counter as it wraps around and forms the qgallery base.  The planking is actually just one piece and it has also been laser cut.  Again its a bit over-sized because everyone's model will be slightly different.   It is 1/32" thick.  Once glued on, you can sand the top and bottom edges flush with the framing.  (Also the aft edge)  The photo below shows it all sanded and completed.
 
You will have to bevel the forward edge of this shell before you glue it on....this is done so it fits snug and tight against the hull planking.

Finally, you can add the fancy molding that defines the upper counter.  These are made from boxwood.  They should be 1/8" wide.  All of the strips were scraped in their usual way to form the molding.  The one thing I would mention which is an exception....the upper molding along the transom is actually 1/16" thick.  This is the only one that is thicker.  We need it to be thicker so it stands proud of the transom to support all of the columns and carvings between the windows.  But I used the same scraper to make this one that I used for the thinner strips.
 
In addition, I also scraped the fancy molding that is shown on either side of the stern post.  These define the bottom edge of the lower counter.  It has a slightly different fancy profile but is also 1/8" wide.  It finishes off the lower counter quite well and neatens it all up.  It separates the hull planking and any messy ends of those planks you might have been less successful with.  Just cover the seam slightly to hide any defects. 
 

In the photo above you can also see that I tested the drop in position as well as the figure that sits on the end of the transom.  Jack did a great job with these and they fit really well.  They look great!!!
 

If you wanted....you could add the drop permanently at this point but dont add the figure.  I was just testing how it fit.  In addition I thought I would test how well the friezes fit and what they would  look like.  These are also NOT glued on yet.  They are just lightly tacked on so I could see how they look.  I wanted to see the color and shape of these and if they actually fit.  I have a bit of tweaking to do on these but I do think they look good.  What do you think?  They are literally the actual friezes from the contemporary model.  They are replicated as best I could.....but are very very close.  You can check them out in our gallery on the contemporary model.