AnobiumPunctatum

The books are really wonderful and a great help.

Thanks Rusty,
 
You might be getting a care package in the mail of sorts for this project very soon.
 
Greg, I would love try a varnish but never did it before.  I would need to experiment.  I dont even know what a good brand would be for that to start with...but I will see.
 
Work is progressing quickly now.
 
The stern frames were added after I placed the last "bulkhead 29" piece in position.  They were glued into the many slots for them which should position them close to the angles we need....but not perfectly.
 
Then I taped some tick strips to the frames using a stern framing guide I developed for the project.  They were taped to each frame as shown to locate where the stern lights (windows) would be located. The locations for the top and bottom of the windows was transferred to each frame.
 
I then inserted some stern window guides laser cut to shape between each frame.  These are the exact shape and size for the windows.  I didnt glue them in at all.  They are just pushed between each frame and they stay in position really well.  We will be removing them after the sills and framing for the windows is completed.
 
It doesnt matter if you add the top or the bottom framing (sills) first.  They were all laser cut but still require some beveling on the sides to conform to the curved shape of the stern.  I just used a 3/16 x 1/4" strip to make the lower sills.  Its tricky getting the angles correct so I had a few do-overs.  But this is a crucial part of the build so I was very careful to get a good fit.  They were thicker than what was needed so I could fair them once they were  glued in position.  The window templates were a godsend!!!  If my sills were too wide they spread the frames apart and the template fell out.  This is a good indication that you still need to sand them a bit more for a perfect fit.  Only when after positioning the sills and they didnt make the window templates fall out did I glue them in permanently. 
 
Then I started fairing the fore and aft sides to thin down the transom framing to about 3/32" thick along the top edge of the upper sill pieces.  This is the time to do the inboard side because you have good access to it before the quarter gallery framing is added.
 

This is what it looks like after the fairing was completed....I still have to fair the port and starboard sides and bulkhead 29 to conform to the shape of the hull....I will do that later today or tomorrow.  Then its time to do the quarter gallery framing....
 
So close to finishing the skeleton framing now!!!!  I left the center window guide in position to show you guys how well they worked.  This was a much easier way to align and frame the stern than the previous methods I have used.

 
 

The books are really wonderful and a great help.

strake 14 complete
 

I have been making some steady progress on the framing.  I just didnt want to bore you guys with this part of the project.  Building the skeleton and framing is not that fun to look at.  But here is the quick run down....
 
The bottom port sills were added first.  Even though you really only need them where the gun ports are, I recommend that the bottom sills are placed between every bulkhead.  It really makes everything solid.  If you cut the sill to the correct length it also squares up teh bulkheads really good.  Even the best attempts at squaring them to the false keel doesnt work.  
 

You might note that the three sections at the bow for the sills are laser cut.  That makes it much easier.

You may be tempted to measure the length off your model where the port sill is going to placed.  This is the worst thing you can do.  It is too easy to push the bulkhead one way or the other which of course forces the other side of the bulkhead in the opposite direction.  This will really screw up your gun port placement.
 
You could also measure off the plans....this is better but still not ideal.  The best place to check the length between two bulkheads is on your model BUT....up against the false keel.  This will give you the best results.  If you do this for both sides everything will be really square and symmetrical. See below.

Once done this was repeated for the upper sills or lintels.  I used a spacer the correct height to place them all easily without measuring.  I only did these where the actual ports were and a few other important locations.  These are all shown on the plans.
 

Then the port sides are added.....I have laser cut these.  There are many shapes and angles to choose from.  You still have to bevel the top and bottom where needed because they must be perfectly vertical.....just like the bulkheads.
 

I used a spacer for these too so the ports were all the same width.
 

This is what it looks like with all the port framing finished.  Pretty boring stuff.  I am about to start on the stern framing.   I should be planking before very long.  The outside was faired smooth.  I wont bother with fairing the inboard side of the bulwarks yet.  Its better to wait until after the hull is planked above the wales for that.  Although I will probably rough chisel some heavy stuff away a little at time inboard when the mood strikes me.
 


 
 
 

The hull fairing is now completed.  Nothing unusual to report.  I didnt break any bulkhead extensions and the binder clips worked out great.  This is a big hull so it took a few days per side to fair.  As is typical there is a fair amount of material to remove at the bow, especially close to the keel at the bottom of the bow fillers.  I just took my time and before I knew it I was done.
 
Once completed, I used a batten (scrap 3/32" x 3/64" strips) to locate a smooth run for the TOP of the gun port sills.  The top of the batten was initially lined up with the laser-etched reference lines for the sills.  Then after viewing it at many many angles I tweaked it untle I got a nice run from bow to stern.  There are no dips and it matches port and starboard.
 
Even though there are laser etched reference lines there are so many factors that could cause them to be higher or lower by just a hair.  This will throw off the run of the ports so the batten is an absolute must.  Its the only way to spot where the run of the ports needs adjustment.
 
Then I used a sharp pencil to mark the top of the batten and then removed it.  Next up I will start adding the port sills and then follow that with the remainder of port framing.  You can check my run of those battens in the photos!!!  I think they are almost good to go.  I hope you can see the laser etched reference on the sides of each bulkhead and my new pencil lines on the outside and along the top edge of the batten.
 

First piece of strake 14 installed
 

Continuing the assembly of the stem..
 
I used temporarily spacers to fit the Knee of the Head, which is only 10'' thick, to the stem.


Next I shaped the Knee of the Head using the info David Antscherl gives in his books. After this I glued the completed assembly to the stem. Therfore I used brass pins and the earlier descriped spacer. At last I shaped the competed stem to the hopefully right thickness.






 
In the moment I work on the lower apron and the rising wood.

What I have done so far and drawing of a slot in F360.

 Drawing of circled
finding the centre points for the slot
slot is drawn and the circles are removed

Good Day
 
I have been considering going back to AutoCAD or CorelDraw, but I will first complete what I have started in F360.
 
Below is the same redraw, but done with CorelDraw.
ST Redraw.pdf

Welcome to the Triton Shipyards and a lot of fun with the build.

Here is a series of pictures of the fixtures used. The first photo is of the sliding table fixture sitting on the Byrnes saw.
 

The next photo is of the underside of the same fixture. It shows the strip of acrylic glued to the underside of the table. This strip is the same width as the table saw slot and guides the sliding fixture back and forth. You can also see the countersunk screws that are used for the two clamps shown in the first photo. Additionally there is a piece of acrylic glued to the underside that acts as a stop when sliding the table forward. If you slide too far you will cut the fxture completely in half. It stops on a screw that is mounted in the edge of the table saw table at the back right corner.
 

The next photo is of a secondary jig that is used to cut the slots in the wood. It has a piece of boxwood glued to it at the same distance from the blade as the blade thickness, in my case 0.032”. It guides the block when taking cuts.
 

 
The strips of acrylic glued on top of each other at the bottom of the photo are strengthening strips to prevent the fixture from being sawn in half.

The last photo shows the small fixture clamped to the sliding table fixture ready to cut slots. You adjist the blade height to be the same as the slot width so that later, strips of 0.032” boxwood can be laid into the slots to create the grate.
 

I hope that shows it clearly as acrylic does not photograph well because of shine from the lights. If you have any questions, please ask.
 
More to follow.........
 

The following photo shows two new carvings and also structural divisions to divide off the area for the individual carvings. The first carving below the two rectangular windows shows the sun radiating from the centre with ribbons on the top sides. The second carving is above the windows and has a harp in the middle with a crown on the top.
 

 
More to follow.......

Well, the move and the months of renovations in our new home is finally over. The shipyard officially re-opened yesterday and I was able to relax and contemplate the work ahead on the Sovereign. When setting up the shop, it quickly became apparent that I had forgot where certain things were packed and it took awhile to find items to get them sorted and away. So many boxes............

As I got down to work, I found that my multitool drill was not working as the power cord was frayed and broken where it entered the end on the unit. The first work in the yard was to take it apart and re-solder the cord. With that complete I started work on the port side where work to divide the hull into sections to house carvings is needed.
 

More to follow.......

Good Day
 
After completing the lesson plans and working through additional books, I have now started to put this knowledge to use. I am using the body plans of Santisima Trinidad.
Firstly, I had to convert the plans to a svg format (with CorelDraw) and then uploaded it into F360 (created a project, Body plan and parts by stage folders.
2nd Sketch:  is the start of the outline, which I have redrawn and still busy with it.
1st Sketch:  is the start of redrawing the lines. The "Caja de Forma" took a better part of 3 hours to draw, as the lines where not accurate. I measured the length and counted how many boxes are there. this gave me the basis on which to draw and should the last box be slightly bigger I tool the difference and re-divided it and continued until I got them all on the same dimension.
 
I will continue redrawing and posting a log.
 
As I am a novice to using CAD and redrawing plans, I beg of you all, to assist and tell me where I am going wrong. It will be greatly appreciated as this will also serve as an inspiration to others to take the plunge and learn, with the advice and assistance from the experts.

Bending the forward piece of strake 7

About the model:
As they say, "No time like the present" and as I'm stalled on Licorne by several non-hobby issues, I'm starting this one to take my mind off things.  I have the plans scaled down from 1:48 to 1:64 I'll be drafting plans for building the ship as the ANCRE monograph doesn't have drawings pre-made for such things a frames, keel, etc.
 
As the title states it will be a POB build as there's next to nothing in the plans of the below deck area. 
 
I'm making decisions at this point will working on lofting the bulkheads, keel, etc. on the types of woods.  Most likely I'll Swiss pear for the external planking, some ebony or ebony stained wood for the wales and other bits and pieces, boxwood for the keel, stern post, and bowspit.  Not sure yet about the decks.   As for the bulkheads and some internal bits that won't be seen, I'm deciding whether to use Baltic Birch plywood or Yellow Ceder.  It may come down to cost on this though.  I'll be using the DeathStar for at least marking the wood to be cut for the bulkheads but not ruling out cutting as that will depend on the wood selection.
 
I selected this ship as "next" as it was the more famous of the ships involved in the battle that brought the French into American Revolutionary War.   
 
Here's the history of Belle Poule and some pictures of the plans and the monograph.
 
La Belle Poule is a 12-pounder class of frigate with 26 12-pdrs on the gun deck and 10 6-pdrs on the forecastle and sterncastle.   
 
History:
 
La Belle Poule was built in the shipyard at Bordeaux starting in 1765 and launched in 1767.  \
 
From 1772 to 1776, she was on hydrographic missions around India.
 
She returned to Brest in 1776 .  At the time, France wasn't engaged in War, but there were numerous incidents.  
 
April, 1777, Belle Poule was chased by a British ship of the line (unknown which one) and after evading her, returned to Brest.
 
December, 1777, Belle Poule transported Silas Deane back to America along with the news of the French-American Alliance.
 
On 7 January, 1778, she was stopped by two Britich ships of the line which demanded to inspect her and her Captian, Charles de Bernard de Marigny replied:  "I am the Belle Poule, frigate of the King of France; I sail from sea and I sail to sea. Vessels of the King, my master, never allow inspections."
 
17 June, 1778.   The famous battle between Belle Poule and Arethusa occurred which was actually celebrated by both countries.  It was this battle that brought France into the American Revolutionary War.  Note that Licorne was captured by the British.
 
After this battle, she did numerous patrols.
 
14 July 1780.   Belle Poule was overhauled and after a two hour battle with Noncuch (64), she surrendered.
 
Feburary, 1781.  Belle Poule was commissioned by the British.   She participated in the Battle of Dogger Bank later that year.  A footnote is that her Master during this period was William Bligh.
 
November 1782.  Belle Poule went to ordinary and also served as a British recieving ship.  
 
1801.  She was sold off.
 
Plans, etc.
 
I'm using the following references:
 
Le Belle Poule Monograh by Boudriot and Berti
The Art of Ship Modeling by Frolich
and lastly, the only build log I could find that actually is showing the process unlike most that just show the finished ship:  https://5500.forumactif.org/t3216-la-belle-poule-de-1765-au-1-48-par-guydal
 
Anyway, a bit long winded but I'll be back when I have my cut sheets, plans, etc. ready and start making sawdust.
 

Also,  I made a quick bowsprit at about 37+ inches diameter (Ree's says it is 36" diameter) to see how it would look.
I am not happy with the gap and so will make it a little larger.
No one will be taking a caliper to it!
 
Then I researched the finished shape of the cap end of the bowsprit to accept the BEES and made notes.
I'll be making a good bowsprit soon enough to have a change of pace... after all they say a change is as good as a raise!


 

Really nice progress

Hello dear friends, 
I am very grateful for your support and comments, your words mean a lot for me. I'm flattered and do appreciate your praise. Thank you all very much.
 
I believe the Royal Katherine will be my best card model after finishing, but there are several things and details I should improve in the model and during the build I try to correct or do them better. I do not continue very fast although want to add something new on the model as often as possible.
 
Well, I try to do realistic model, but have to say, it is really hard. Next time I am going to relax and build something according to complete building plans. The Royal Katherine is the most chalenging project I have ever realized.
 
 
Wefalck: Plenty of my tutorials and videos have been posted here, so please look through my thread. I am going to add others in the future. 
I don't have experience with other materials, so I can't recommend anything else. I am satisfied with this one I use. 
 
I build card models more than 30 years.I am not sure if I understand well your second question ( unfortunately my English is not very good), but I try to devote my greatest effort to all parts of the model. I usually put also a "part of myself" into building these models - not only my modelling skills, but also "emotion" and "love". 
 
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The belfry is finished and now I am continuing with other pieces of decoration on another railing... I try to create it according to museum models from that period to achieve more realistic result. Unfortunately there are no exact plans or drawings of these parts of the Royal Katherine, so I have to improvise a bit.....😉
 

Enjoy the pics and have a great time.

Best regards,
Doris
 
 

The low railing is completely made of wood due to its higher strength:
 

 

And another bulkhead completed and placed in model.... The brass bell is not my own product, it is one of few things on the model I have purchased as finished accessory.
 

 

Placing the largest guns  "cannon-of-seven" in the hull. 
 

 
The carriages were placed into the hull separately and then I added cannon barrels to them. It is possible to move and set them as necessary.