AnobiumPunctatum

I don't think this is the case.  There will be a group build here on this site - each member of the group will have to post on his own building block using the materials chosen/provided.
Only when the members of this (online) group have received their material will it be made available as a kit on Chuck's site.
 
Do correct me when I am wrong.
Slainte gu mhath
L.H.

Next I worked on the iron strap along the outside edge of the stem. The strap is laser cut from laserboard
which is resin impregnated paper and already blackened.After the pieces were glued in place holes were
drilled to accept 22 gauge wire  which simulated the bolts. After the wire was cut and sanded smooth
they were painted black and then some rusty brown weathering powder was applied to give it a more 
metal look.
 

 

 

 
Next up it will be assembling the thole pins, placing them and then more painting!

This will not come as any new revelation to anyone but Chuck is a great carver. Me not so much. 
I've played with the boxwood laser cut carvings and though they are really great I slaughtered them.
Soooooo I am using Chucks optional resin castings. They required very little clean up.
Chucks used weathering powders and I did the same. You can see the results below. 
You also can see there's still a lot of clean up and touching up needed.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 

The kit provides the various friezes all sized and ready to be inserted into the panels.
Chuck describes using a glue stick to adhere the friezes. As I didn't have a glue stick I
diluted some white glue, used a paint brush to apply it to the area inside the panels
and then gently press the frieze in place. 
 

 

 

 
 

 
Next I will paint and install the bow flag support brace and the step.

Hi All,
 
I've got some catching up to do here.
 
The risers for the thwarts fitted, clamped and drying.
 

 

 
The benches, bench seat back and coxswain seats have been added and the first several
coats of paint have been applied with many more to come.
 
Here are the laser cut thwarts and the two long saw tooth looking strips are for the stretchers.
 

 
I kinda got caught up working and forgot to take pictures. Each cross piece was specifically cut for its
position so numbering them and keeping them in order was real important. All pieces were test fitted
then taken apart and glued together. After assembling the thwarts I realized I had gotten ahead of myself
and forgot to put the stretchers in. Oops followed by a bunch of swearing. Luckily I was able to slide
everything in between the framing. No harm no foul. Whew.
 

 
 Many more coats of paint is needed and well as planking above the thwarts.
 

 

Thanks and welcome aboard Tim!
 
Thank Bob! 
 
The centers have now been removed from the frames. Like Ben I found using a fine razor saw worked well for me.
 

 
Next is adding the cap rail and fairing the inboard frames.

Moving along I have assembled all of the frames. It went very smoothly.
 

 
I've also been able to complete the keel assembly. Chuck did a great job on the scarf joints. You did not need to sand the char off and the fit was perfect.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by!

Thanks for the Likes.
 
So the fancy panels went on really well and the friezes that Chuck supplies fitted inside them perfectly.
 
Also I scraped the trim pieces with a home made simple profile.
 
Now for the carvings.
 
ben

As my first planking on my Armed Virginia Sloop build fill my time since two weeks, I decided to begin a new build. It allow me to practice a new type of work during this repetitive phase on the AVS build.

When I began in this hobby, I was attracted at once by barges. Quickly, my choice was reduced to three models: the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipways, the english pinnace, an another Model Shipways model and the Queen Anne Barge from Syren Ship Model Company. You will notice that this three models were designed by the same developer : the great master Chuck Passaro.

It quickly seemed that the most appropriate choice lived in the Queen Anne Barge. And this for many reasons. At first, this model seem more suited to a modeler having not many experience. Chuck has designed a wonderful kit which contains all the elements necessary to simplify the work of the builder. The barge has only three strakes of planking. Furthermore, all oft he outboard planking has been pre-spiled and two sheets of laser cut planks are supplied, one fort he port and the second fort he starboard side.

The second reason form y choice, is the quality of the manual of instructions. Chuck must have been teacher and writer in a previous life… The manual is read as a novel and numerous photos illustrate the very precise explanations. You have only to follow the instructions and all will be fine.

The last reason is the quality oft he model. As with his previous model, the Cheerful  cutter, Chuck has again designed a  ´must to have´ kit. The quality of the laser cut is one of the best currently and the concept of the  kit is innovative. Everything is thought to simplify the work of the modelist. The Syren Ship Model Company is, for me, one of the leader in this market and I look forward to the next model…  It will be mine too.

I have the great fortune to be connected on this forum when Chuck announced the release of the first set of eleven Barge kits. I was lucky because within half an hour everything was sold…

One week later, my precious was at home.  Another indication of the seriousness of  the Syren Ship Model Company.
But now it's time for the build
You just notice that I used a piece of scrap 1/32" basswood to help me to center the two pieces on the top of the keel. So I have better luck that these two pieces have a regular 1/32" lip on both sides. For the rest, I just follow carefully the Chuck instructions...
It will be time to prepare the frames.
 

In parallel of the build on the Armed Virginia Sloop, I work softly on this magnificent barge. I follow faithfully the instructions of the excellent manual. The instructions are precise and built on a very educational method. The teaching profession should have also been one of Chuck's professions in a previous life...
As I work in the computer world, I was able to print the manual on a good laser color printer. Just follow the instructions and take a lot of fun in the build of this kit.
Nothing is glued. It's just a test to see how it will be. Following the log of Rustyj, I notice that the two frames 0 should not face in the same directions. I will correct this when it will be time to glue the frames. That's the luck to follow build logs on this forum !

My work on the Queen barge advance quietly.
I have glued the frames on the building board paying attention to the direction of each of them.



Then I applied a coat of tung oil.

Finally I have glued the planks #1 and #2 on each side of the barge.
 
For the plank #1, I begin on the port side and everything goes well. But when I bend the plank for the starboard side, I twist the plank in the wrong direction... Yes it's very easy to forget which way we need to twist it... And naturally when I try to twist it in the opposite direction happens what should happen... I broke the plank !
 
Luckily the Syren Ship Model Company provides an extra exterior barge planking set. As I had to order some cannons and swivel guns to upgrade the armement of my Armed Viriginia Sloop, I just had to add this set to my order. As always with my orders at Syren Ship Model Company, I received the packet in the same week.
And this time, when you take care of the direction of the twist everything is easier...


Now I will work on the plank #3.
I just have clean the laser char. Its time to bend and twist. But I can work more quietly because this time I will be very careful on the direction of the twist...
 
 
 
 

Small advance of the week.
The second row of the planks was glued (plank 3# and 4#).
I followed the steps described in the manual. I have to confess a little deviation from the instructions. After bending and twisting the plank 3# with heat, I soaked the first two inches of the plank in hot water during a few minutes ant put it in place (without glue) to obtain a more precise shape. I waited the next day to start gluing it.
A little sanding is still needed on the lower outboard side near the bow to flush with the plank 1#.
Now, I will begin the last row.
I have a little question : as this last three planks are not clinker planked, is it useful to mark the edge of the planks with some 2B pencil ? It seems to me that no but I'm not sure...
 
 

Chuck, thanks for your little reminder on the last parts of the planking. The two small pieces have been added.
Andrew, this model ship is a must to have ! Syren Ship Model Company produced a little marvel !
And thanks to all the likes.
 
Just a small advance this week.
I have removed the model from the base. The key word is 'Take your time'. Go slow and push alternatively from port to starboard. I was a little worried before I started but finally this step happened more easily than expected. Just proceed slowly.

Then I prepared the build board gluing together the two parts and adding cherry strips provided in the kit.

Now it's time to remove the frame centers...
 

Thanks for all the 'Likes'.
It's done. The frame centers were removed. I used for this step four different tools : I started cutting with a triangular files. Then I enlarged the cut with the semi-circular file (the rounded shape used on the inside of the hull). Then I continued using the little saw. The cut is delicately finished using the cutter.
Once again just one tip : work gently.
Only the first frame to remove is a little more complicate because we have little room to bend it... Then the workspace gets bigger and bigger...

I just started to sand the tops of each frame down so they will be flush with the top of the planking. It's the preliminary step before to glue the cap rail.
 

The cap rail is in place. The three sections were glued quite easily because the width of the pieces is generous. So no problem to position the cap rail. Just  make sure you have enough width when you will sand the pieces.
Sanding the cap rail was more time consuming than expected. After having sanding the outboard edge flush with the planking, I drew with a compass open to a width of 5/64" a line all along the top of the cap rail. I have the view of the area to be eliminated.
I completed this step in three work sessions. By chance it's the FIFA World Cup, so I was able to work while listening to the broadcast of the match on my TV.  You just have to stay calm when your favorite team scores a goal...   It was a bit more difficult during the Swiss-Serbia match !
I think that this step is important and that it is necessary to devote the necessary time because it gives you the final aspect of the barge.
I will now work on the floorboards.

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker.  He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted.  He has already given me some great insight about the rig.  He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable.  I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference.  I have invited him to join our little group project as well.
 
Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.
 




 
 

Sorry, that was a calculation fault of mine. I thought on the Model Shipways kit as I wrote my last thread.
1/24 is also a really nice choice. It's the same scale as your pinnace models.

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.
The detailed build log will be a great help later.
 
EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

Sorry, that was a calculation fault of mine. I thought on the Model Shipways kit as I wrote my last thread.
1/24 is also a really nice choice. It's the same scale as your pinnace models.

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.
The detailed build log will be a great help later.
 
EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

Continuing along....
 
For those familiar with this design concept from my Queen Anne Barge kit,  you will recognize the two-piece build board.  I have however, tried to make some improvements with each new project based on watching others build them.  In this case,  I have added some slots for bracing blocks.  Two for the transom and two for the bow/stem to stabilize them while planking.  These pieces can be seen below.  But do NOT glue them into the slots.  These will need to be removed at some point in the build.  It will be easier to remove the boat after planking without these in position.  They are a press fit.  If they are too snug....sand them a bit thinner because remember you will be removing them after a few planking strakes are completed.  So make sure they are loose enough for that.
 

There are two types of frames on contemporary models like this and the barge.  One piece frames and two piece frames.  Th etwo piece frames have floors and top timbers.  We will be doing the one piece frames first and there are 5 of them.  Another tip I was given by an individual can be seen below.  You can see thin strips of packaging tape along the inner cut line.  I used heavy and sticky packaging tape.  You can fold over the end to make a tab and place the tape so it spans across the seam.  This will give it added (temporary) strength while fairing and planking.  The tape is put on both sides.  The tabs will make it easier to remove the tape before breaking the inside of each frame free when it comes time to do so.
 

Then once this is finished you must test the frames in their slots on the build board.  They will be very snug by design initially.  You dont want these loose and falling out of the build board.  But you dont want them too tight either.  You want to be able to easily remove them at any time.  The best way to achieve the best fit is to sand the two tabs that fit into each slot just a little at a time until they are the perfect thickness.  You will know when they are good because they will be firmly seated and yet be somewhat easy to remove.  Be careful not to break the small tabs that hold the frame centers in the frames.  No need to clean any laser char.
 
In addition, test the fit of the bottom of the frame so it fits the same in its notch on the keel.  Not too tight and not too loose. The three single piece frames at the stern are shown below being test fit. and the two at the bow should be as well.  Dont glue these into the build board.  That would be a huge mistake.

 
With this completed, lets test the keel assembly on the build board atop the frames.  Carefully place the keel assembly into the stern half of the build board first.  This is a bit tricky if you havent done it before but once you do it a couple of times you figure out the little nuances.  Slip the stern post between the two braces first as you carefully guide the keel onto each frame.  Dont push to hard in each notch of the keel.  You have have tested and filed those so they slide into each notch easily but dont fall out because they are too loose. NOTE the two small additional braces waiting to be installed next.

The two transom blocks in the slots can be moved forward or aft so you can get a good fit against the transom.  Remember that they are not glued in.  The slots for them are longer than needed so they can be adjusted to best advantage.  But once in a good position, you can add the two smaller brace blocks.  These can and should be glued onto the build board. Use a little glue and push them into position against the transom.  But DONT glue them to the transom.  Just glue them to the build board.  These will stabilize the transom even more while planking.  Also use the laser etched lines on the build board to help make sure the transom is straight and not askew.  This method differs from the one I used on the barge kit but I think its an improvement.  Time will tell. 

Then repeat the test fitting of the keel in the bow half of the build board.  Do it the same way except there are no additional stabilizing blocks. These two will do the job and keep the stem from wandering while you add the first few strakes up there.  
 

How it all looks at this stage.   You will be removing and testing the keel many times before its time to glue the keel in position for good.  Now to do the two piece frames.  I also want to point out to those interested....look at the laser char edges of the frames.  You will see how they are not dark and black.  Yellow Cedar is very forgiving thanks to the oil present.   It doesnt effect the gluing either and I am using Titebond II for all my joints.  The build board is just basswood and you can see how dark that gets when laser cutting.   I find it very enjoyable to work in Cedar and removing the char is much easier in my opinion....as Cherry and Basswood burn like crazy.
 

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

For me it's an really interesting subject and I think it is an really nice idea to put my hand on both versions.

Really nice progress in the last few month. Very well done, Mike

Hello and thank you all for your likes,
 
today I finished the planking of the gun deck and I made also the spirketting. I think that I need the next week for relaxing my fingertips and let here and there some new skin growing  These riding pices are very hard and stable.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I build the deck without the margin plank, you would't see it later. The waterway I will install in the slit between the deck and the spirketting.