BANYAN

She's taking on some of her final definition and looking the part now John - very nice.  That last shot really shows of her beautiful lines.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 188 – Completing Main and Fore Masts
 
Just a few finishing up steps were required to complete the two large lower masts.  First, the tops of the hounds had to be angled to the rake of their masts so the tops, when fitted, would be level.  The foremast rake is about 4.75 degrees and the main is at about 5.4 degrees.  A plywood gauge, shown in the first picture was trimmed on each side to these angles.
 

 
This gauge was then used to check the angle of the hounds as it was trimmed back by filing, as shown below.
 

 
The gauge is held parallel to the masthead in the picture.  These mastheads are not tapered.  Both sides had to be matched.  These will get a final trim when the tops are installed and can be levelled more accurately and in both directions. 
 
The next picture shows the main and fore masts with all the construction work completed.
 

 
All the foremast ironwork has been blackened in the picture.  This was all done all at once after all the bands, including the masthead bands were installed and all other work on the mast completed.  This was done to avoid excessive handling of the blackened bands.  Liver of sulfur solution was brushed into each band until black.  Brushing helps eliminate black powdery buildup.  As each band was blackened it was rinsed under running water.  The masts were left to dry overnight then given a finish of Tung oil diluted 50%, applied with cotton swabs.  In the next picture a dry cotton swab is being used to soak up any excess oil.
 

 
The Tung oil restores the tone of the Castello and protects the blackened metal as well as the wood.  The mastheads were left unfinished so that wood fittings may be added later after the tops are slipped over.  The last picture shows the two masts placed temporarily in position to allow the Tung oil to dry..
 

 
Mast wedges will be made and fitted at the partners later, probably after the tops and masthead trim is installed.  This will permit that work to be completed on the workbench.  Meanwhile, the mizzen mast is in the works.
 
Ed

Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates.
 
Those skylights are stunning.  I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve.
 
You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique.  I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Go ahead then, lower your modelling skills to match mine! 

I recently stayed at the Rising Star Casino in Indiana. While there, admired a beautiful scale model of the Rising Star Riverboat. I thought it was one of the finest looking models of that type of boat I had ever seen until I found your build thread.
This model is amazing. Would love to see something like this in person. 

Depends on the tube.  I ordered a 45W (which was tested and is putting out 50W) for $250 (not counting discount special going on) from lightobject.com.   The power supply came from Automation Technologies.   I think the tube supplier is getting better tubes from China these days.  The last one was rated at 45W and tested for 45W max.  The new one is the same tube I ordered the last time but the 50W is hit and with less input amperage.   Same for the power supply.  The replacement is higher rated for output and has a fan for cooling.  
 
As I'm understanding it, the Chinese are in a mad race.... their lax patent rules and enforcement are coming back to haunt them, so the legit suppliers are stepping up efforts for quality in manufacturing and improvements in design while petitioning and pushing the government to crackdown on the patent/copyright infringers.
 
But I digress...
 
I discovered the sequence of events and Murphy's part in this....   the water pump failed during a long, high-powered cut (which I contributed to per the above) which took out the tube from overheating... which took out the power supply.. which took out the controller board.   Water pump and controller are on order and should be here late this week.  I think that when the tube went, the 25kV followed the water down the high voltage cable to the power supply and there, all havoc was unleashed.    Oh... all this equipment went out in the process of protecting the fuses.  Not a single fuse blew.  Go figure.
 
As time permits, I'm still working on the cradles, but given the state of the workshop with laser parts all over, there's not much bench space for ship work.

Adapting what we have in accordance with our skills is the key Dave - I see a very nice capstan
 
cheers
 
Pat

Sorry there has not been an update for a little while, I am back at the PC drawing up the plans, and continuing the research.
 
I am going to have to ensure a quality build noting the experience and abilities of the build followers
 
cheers
 
Pat

Congratulations Russ; she looks absolutely grand!  I am sure the client will be very thrilled with this model.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates.
 
Those skylights are stunning.  I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve.
 
You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique.  I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Michael, those stays especially are looking very good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Now that you have almost completed your prototype, I'll send over my 'Lanco' for you to adapt  Very nice work Wefalck; that will be a very useful mini-machine and a fine addition to your wonderful workshop.
 
cheers
 
Pat

JT here is a rough copy of such a fan someone posted on this site I think (sorry cannot recall who).  These are the proportions by which to reduce square stock to get an octagon (the 10 is the meat that remains).  Simply place the square stock on the fan so that the edges of the stock meet the outer edges of the '7' fan lines, then mark the wood with the other lines. The lines should be ruled with a straight edge back towards the centre to reflect the angle of taper rquired.  For some yards, not direct to the centre but to the point of transition from straight octagonal to taperered round.   These then give you the guide lines to which you reduce the square stock with plane, chisel, file or....
 
Note: the square stock should be reduced to the appropriate thickness before starting, such that the width of the meat [10] ends up wide enough, that after rounding, is the correct diameter of the round - this takes a little calculation.  Always better to err on 'bigger' so that you can reduce; harder to add  Once you have the round, even in taper, it is relatively easy to maintain it with further sanding.
 
cheers
 
Pat

JT here is a rough copy of such a fan someone posted on this site I think (sorry cannot recall who).  These are the proportions by which to reduce square stock to get an octagon (the 10 is the meat that remains).  Simply place the square stock on the fan so that the edges of the stock meet the outer edges of the '7' fan lines, then mark the wood with the other lines. The lines should be ruled with a straight edge back towards the centre to reflect the angle of taper rquired.  For some yards, not direct to the centre but to the point of transition from straight octagonal to taperered round.   These then give you the guide lines to which you reduce the square stock with plane, chisel, file or....
 
Note: the square stock should be reduced to the appropriate thickness before starting, such that the width of the meat [10] ends up wide enough, that after rounding, is the correct diameter of the round - this takes a little calculation.  Always better to err on 'bigger' so that you can reduce; harder to add  Once you have the round, even in taper, it is relatively easy to maintain it with further sanding.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates.
 
Those skylights are stunning.  I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve.
 
You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique.  I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Adapting what we have in accordance with our skills is the key Dave - I see a very nice capstan
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, another update - Ron talked me into it
 
I played around with some materials and the result is shown below - still a few minor errors to correct - but largely there.  
 

 
Next job - work out how to apply all of this to reflect the cannon and carriage design for the HMCSS Victoria.  That part will not be so easy
 
Mark - don't say I don't do as I am told - off to prepare for the hangover
 
cheers
 
Pat

As mentioned in the earlier posts, we have been moving ahead with the build and the hull has been completed, including the copper plating.  The screw Built by Chris Ramsey) to the Maudslay design, does rotate but we did not bother with the feathering at this scale.    This design of the feathering screw did not require the whole screw to be raised, but was rather locked in the feathered position when under sail.
 
     
 
  
 
cheers 
 
Pat

The bullwarks, roughtree timbers etc at this scale are very thin, and also as this ship was constructed without full frames (no projected timbers), we needed to develop a jig which is shown in the photos below.  The jig screwed to the deck (in locations that will be covered later) and expands outwards.  The bulwarks were then built up against this jig which supported them during construction.  The jig will be fitted again soon to allow us to cut out the various ports and access gates.
 
We decided to experiment with the deck as the scale size of the 6 inch wide deck planks would have proved to be a nightmare in planking.  The deck arrangements were drawn up in CAD and then printed on timber veneer which was then glued down to a false deck.  This has proven to be a reasonable approach for this model (cost and time); although, we have yet to deal with the glue joint .
 
    
 
 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates.
 
Those skylights are stunning.  I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve.
 
You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique.  I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks everybody,
 
I've missed being in touch. I'm happy to finally have a free weekend to explore n MSW.
 
Thanks Jack, yes, I use a Blazer micro torch and love it. The fine flame works great for these small parts.
 
Thanks Frank. The two uprights on the front of the stove are 1/8 square tubing with two sides filed off. For the rest of the upright bends, I score the back side of the sheet and then used a fine square file to file a 90 degree notch half way through the sheet. Makes for a clean straight bend but you can only bend it once or twice before it breaks in this thin metal.
 
Thanks druxey, I still having a lot of fun learning what the mill can do. I've never used it so extensively for one model before. I'd hate to think of how long this model would have taken if I didn't use the mill.
 
Thanks Albert, Michael, Cathead, nils and John. It's good to hear from you again.
 
Thanks Pat. I look forward to following your Victoria build. I have a feeling that you'd have no problem getting value for the money out of CNC. Although, I still feel like I'm cheating when I see modelers doing higher quality work by hand.

I love these screw sloops. Beautiful marriage of sail and steam. I look forward to seeing her come together!

Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates.
 
Those skylights are stunning.  I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve.
 
You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique.  I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks!
 
cheers
 
Pat

No problem Denis, quite a lot of room in the front row still .
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very many thanks E&T.  Thanks for looking in and the compliments; as this is a club build (5 builders) I will pass them onto the respective builders of those parts; I can only claim a small contribution to the hull and the doing the channels though.
 
regards
 
Pat