Gabek

and more pictures...
 
 

and the last ones that I have for now.
 
 
 
 

Welcome aboard! Great project...excellent learning experience. Looking forward to following your build.
Clear skies!
Gabe

Yes, it's quite a sizeable group of cross-sectioneers (and not cross sectioneers) now. That will reinforce the learning for all of us.
 
Tony

Welcome aboard! Great project...excellent learning experience. Looking forward to following your build.
Clear skies!
Gabe

Welcome aboard! Great project...excellent learning experience. Looking forward to following your build.
Clear skies!
Gabe

Omar CS, Albert - thanks .
Another part of build - chains for deadeyes. All parts are made from brass with silver soldering.

I decided to make my own deadeyes. And here is the result.

Update.... Milled Keel assembly in 1:32 scale. Have included a photo to show the contrast in dimensions. I'm currently preparing the frames for layout and cutting. Quite an experience for me and this is only a cross section.
 
Dupree

Welcome aboard, Dupree!
This is a great project that really pushes your skill and knowledge. The people here are a fantastic resource, super encouraging and a good shoulder to cry on when the time comes! Looking forward to watching your build. (And, I think you just kick-started me to get back on track with mine!).
Regards,
Gabe

A WINDOW ON HMS TERROR
 
By 1845, Terror’s stern windows were very different from those Captain John Sheridan gazed through as he bombarded Baltimore in 1814. In 1812, Henry Peake designed a relatively traditional stern gallery for HMS Terror, which included seven stern lights in addition to six windows arranged on her port and starboard quarter galleries. Each of the stern windows had nine panes, while the smaller quarter gallery windows had six panes.
 

Henry Peake's original 1812 design for Terror's stern gallery and quarter galleries. 
NMM, ZAZ5662
 
When Terror was first converted for polar service over 1835 and 1836, its vulnerable quarter galleries (and the water closets they contained) were removed, resulting in a reduction to five stern windows. Contemporary artwork by Owen Stanley indicates that the windows retained their original nine-pane configuration during Back's harrowing Arctic expedition of 1836-1837.
 
 
Terror's stern lights in 1837. Note the cipher and ship's name depicted above the hanging rudder.
 NMM, PAF0275
 
Since the time of Parry’s second Arctic voyage, 24 years previously, polar exploration vessels had been fitted with "double window-frames" (1), and Terror undoubtedly had double windows installed for Back’s 1836 -1837 Arctic voyage. Parry described that during the coldest months, "cork shutters" were inserted between the sashes on HMS Hecla (1), and it is possible that cork shutters were used on Terror’s subsequent polar voyages. 
 
Contemporary images suggest that Terror's stern gallery remained unchanged during the Antarctic expedition of 1839-1843, when Terror was under the command of Francis R.M. Crozier, although the 1839 Terror and Erebus plans indicate that significant changes were made to the great cabin itself. 
 
In the spring of 1845, Terror and Erebus had their sterns dismantled and reconstructed to accommodate large wells needed to raise and lower their new screw propellers. The centre window on the stern of each vessel was removed to make room for the new well. Green-ink annotations on Terror’s 1836 plans show that her stern frames were shifted slightly forward during the 1845 refit. The reasons for such an extensive refit are unclear, but it may have been necessary to redesign the stern framing to accommodate the weight and stress of the new propeller system. 
 
While it appears that the remaining four stern windows were kept (roughly) in their original positions in 1845, the windows themselves were redesigned from a nine-pane to a four-pane configuration. We know this because of a remarkable woodcut of the great cabin of HMS Erebus, which appeared in the May 24th, 1845 issue of the Illustrated London News (2). The accompanying article described that the windows were “double[d]”, similar to those used on Parry’s voyages. Astonishingly, high resolution images of the cabin illustration in the report clearly show the double sashes.
 
Why the stern lights were modified to a four-pane design is unknown, but the woodcut indicates that by 1845 the window muntins were much more robust than those on a typical stern window. A sturdier design might have been thought necessary, after the unprecedented heavy seas and storms Terror and Erebus encountered during their Antarctic expedition.  However, we know that the thickness of the glass was not increased, because window glass recovered from HMS Erebus in 2015 has the same  thickness as that specified on Terror’s (i.e., Belzebub’s) original 1812 building contract (3). 
 
Below, I’ll outline how I have recreated Terror’s windows for my model. Though few pictures have been released, they appear to compare well with the recent Parks Canada images of Terror’s stern. 
 
 
References:
 
(1) Parry, William Edward. 1824. Journal of a Second Voyage for the Discovery of a North-west Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific: Performed in the Years 1821- 22-23, in His Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, Under the Orders of Captain William Edward Parry, R.N., F.R.S., and Commander of the Expedition. London.
 
(2) Departure of the “Erebus” and “Terror” on the Arctic Expedition. Illustrated London News, May 24th, 1845. Volume 6, Page 328.
 
(3) National Maritime Museum, ADT0010
 
 

Construction of the stern windows began with laser cutting the 
sashes from a sheet of Swiss pear. 
 

A bevel was added to each muntin with a hand file. The filed 
windows are on the left, the unfinished windows are on the right. 
 

Comparing progress to the original woodcut.
 

Instead of adding four individual panes, I opted to add a single simulated pane. 
This was achieved by carving out the backside of the windows to 
accept the simulated glass. 
 

The window panes were made from high quality PVC blister packaging material. 
It is crystal clear, resists yellowing, and bonds well with CA glue. The painter's 
tape protects the surface from scratches and permits patterns to be drawn 
on the surface. 
 
 
A beading line of CA was used to glue the panes in place. 
 

Allowing the glue to dry. 
 

A pair of finished windows compared to the woodcut. Note the double 
sashes in the woodcut image. 
 

Gluing the sills to the sashes. These are not the proper configuration, 
but will not be visible on the finished model. 
 

A nickle for scale. 
 

The completed double windows.  
 

A closeup view.
 

The interior panes were sanded to simulate frost (and to prevent a 
view into the interior of the model). 
 

The port stern lights installed between the stern frames. 
 

A view from the interior of the model. The imposing nature of the 
well can be seen here.  
 

Approximating the view from the great cabin 
(as best possible).
 

The completed stern gallery.
 

Mini-Cozier surveys the pack from the comfort of his great cabin.

HMS TERROR FOUND!
 
Some people have asked me how I feel about this discovery. To find out.....
 
http://buildingterror.blogspot.com/2016/09/hms-terror-found.html
 
 

Welcome aboard, Dupree!
This is a great project that really pushes your skill and knowledge. The people here are a fantastic resource, super encouraging and a good shoulder to cry on when the time comes! Looking forward to watching your build. (And, I think you just kick-started me to get back on track with mine!).
Regards,
Gabe

Thank You Gabe,
 You are absolutely right about the people and the resources on this site. I opened your build log and was impressed with your scale and progress. If I was able to have even a small part in rejuivinating your build, that pleases me very much. I have "followed" your log and looking forward to instruction and enjoyment.
 
Dupree 

Hey there, Jan.
Power tools, yes. Precision, not so much. I wreck a lot of wood before I get it right! Getting these planks to the correct size has been an exercise in frustration! Sand paper has been my most valuable tool!
 
Have you thought of a ship in a bottle? That's all hand tools. I tried one and I'm sure that I will be building more of them!
 
Regards,
Gabe

Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
 
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.


 
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
 

 

 
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
 
 

Well, I finally got some time to work on the Triton. Even though its been a while I have been thinking non-stop about this little model and I have been making some wild plans for her. One thing that I felt I needed to change were the keel, keelson and false keel. The dark contrast between the birch frames and the chechen was not what I wanted...not terribly realistic. So, I fabricated new pieces from birch. With the keel piece in place I used an exacto knife to mark the top of the rabet, and used an even larger straight gouge, finely honed, to cut the notch out.
 

 
I cut the keel, etc., longer than needed so I could clamp the ends down. I saw this on another Triton build where the builder had screwed down the ends and thought it was an excellent method. However, I should have realized that I don't have screws small enough to do this at my scale. I ended up clamping them down with some planking screw clamps. I glued down a print of the frame plan to a work board to help with lining up the frames when the time came.
 
I spent quite a bit of time shaping the notches for the keelson and keel to get a tight fit. I kept the frames clamped together to help line things up and to help support the wood to prevent breaking another frame.
 

 
After I had the keelson fitted I made use of a couple of miniature machinist clamps to make sure the keel and keelson lined up properly.
 

 
When time finally came to glue the frames in place I oringinally wanted to use carpenter's glue so I could adjust and fiddle. However, when I was dry-fitting and rehearsing the work I realized that it was going to be a nightmare to clamp and hold these small frames in place. So, I decided to go with cyano gel...should give me a few seconds to play but only need to be held in place for a short time.
 
I thought that starting at the middle would be best so I picked frame 1 and, wouldn't you know it, as I was working out how to align the frame I forgot how delicate these were and I snapped it right in the middle. Let's just say that I dug deep into my lexicon of swear words. Clamped together, these frames had been sturdy and a few months away from this model made me careless.
 
I grabbed some brush-on CA and managed to fit the parts back together rather easily. I put it aside and decided to push on with frame O first.
 
When the time finally came to glue down the frame things went fairly smoothly. A small machinists square helped.
 
The first frame glued in...and the wounded Frame 1 lying off to the side
 
 

 
I continued to frame C in fairly quick succession. I had cut many spacers of the correct width to help me with this and future stages and they proved invaluable. By the time I got to this point Frame 1 had had enough curing time so I just kept on going. I think the entire gluing stage may have taken 20 minutes. Thank you CA!
 
 


 

 
I had to do a bit more filing to fit the keelson to my liking, but eventually it was glued up as well.
 

Welcome aboard, Dupree!
This is a great project that really pushes your skill and knowledge. The people here are a fantastic resource, super encouraging and a good shoulder to cry on when the time comes! Looking forward to watching your build. (And, I think you just kick-started me to get back on track with mine!).
Regards,
Gabe

I decided that I would make this my initial build. This build will introduce me to most aspects of model building. I will be using Walnut as my primary lumber as a large walnut tree was blown over on my property last summer and it seems to resaw nicely. I also have a nice supply of Maple and Swiss Pear.  I am considering upscaling to 1:32 and is likely. I have been like a sponge absorbing everything I can on this forum and have built quite a resource library. Looking forward to the hands on now. I handle critiques well, so all are welcome.
 
Dupree

Hi,
 
Hoping to make a fully framed frigate in the future in 1:64, so this seems the perfect place to try out some of those skills. I've only done plank on bulkhead before from kits, so it's a bit of a journey into the unknown, but how helpful to have so many others who've travelled the path before me!
 
I scaled the plans down by a factor of 0.75 to take them from 1:48 to 1:64 (where 3/16" is equivalent to 1ft).
 
Here are the picture so far. Parts are walnut. I've left the keelson, keel and false keel longer than the plans and intend to trim them down later on in the build.
 

 

Got the stanchions done on the larboard side, mowed the yard, now taking a break.
 
Used the aluminum angle iron to make sure they were square.

 
I did bevel the bottom of the stanchions at the scuppers to give water easier drainage.
 

 

I spotted your gallery and just have to tell you how much I love your little craft! I'm drawn to miniature scales, too, and started on my first scratch build of an HMS Beagle that will be about 4" long. You have already given me several ideas on how to proceed. I'm really looking forward to going through all your other logs.
 
Great work and thanks for sharing with us.
 
Regards,
Gabeu

Sure thing! And thanks for your comment!
 
ROUND TOOTHPICKS AND OLD BUSINESS CARDS : To make wooden doors.
1- Spread glue on a business card or similar object
2-Cover it with round toothpicks and weight until dry
3-Paint with black or dark brown ink or paint, making sure the paint goes all the way down between toothpicks.
4- When paint dries, cut to shape and sand the toothpicks flat, or sand and cut to shape: your choice. The roundness of the toothpicks will allow you to make the line between planks wider or narrower the more or less you sand.
5- Add black cardboard hinges. Use nails to make doorknobs, add handles, etc...
 
Glad this tip has got many nice comments!

A bit more progress. This is the fun part. You can see that I needed a cheater piece. One rib out of whack, but replacing it is out of the question at this point. All will be covered anyway. Next time try I try one of these or, good God!, a full build I will have to be more of a perfectionist with the ribs.

Myself, I kinda like the contrast and color variation. Bet when they were building the original they didn't throw any lumber away because of the color variation.  With that said, if it bothers you replace it, if it pleased you keep it. Your build your choice, do what makes you satisfied.