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About Dsmith20639

  • Birthday 01/21/1945

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Solomons Maryland
  • Interests
    Wooden ship models, Pocher Auto models, woodworking, turning.

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  1. Added rudder Masked deck prior to painting hull. Painteed hull with primer and then a coat of white. Masked off water line and gave bottom two coats of hull red. Built and painted forepeak hatch wheel box cargo hatch deck house stove pipe engine box engine exhaust bottom of push boat and keelson.
  2. added frames E thru 4 and began installing spacers . Needed a shim between frames D and C.
  3. Installed plank sheer on inside edge of wale. Added blocks at masthead and near top of mast. Added guard and dredge guard to wales. Added transom and stanchion blocks. Added cap rails. Removed excess wood from stanchions and sanded even to cap rail. Installed knight heads. Created rudder with doublers and applied a coat of primer. Added life rail (pipe rail) and applied a coat of primer.
  4. Created the rabbet and glued the keel, keelson, stem and stemson onto the building board. Started deepening the slots 1/16". I had a problem deepening the slots because the part to be removed was glued to the backing board. It would have been a lot easier work if I had not applied glue to the areas just beneath the slots. The glue made removal of the wood more difficult. Checked the transition from the rabbet onto each frame as I went along.
  5. I will be building the half hull planking kit to improve my planking before I start my next model that requires planking. I am currently building a solid hull skipjack in another build log so this log will go slowly as I have free time between building the skipjack. Mounted the plans on a foam board and removed and laid out the keel parts.
  6. Painted mast hoops and turnbuckles. Glued mast hoops to leading edge of mast. Made and installed mast head fitting, added cleats to bottom of mast. Made boom with boom jaws, made and installed fairleads on boom, added cleats to boom and jackstay eyebolts to hold foot of sail, painted boom. Made and painted jib club. Made, stained, and painted bowsprit and installed eyebolts at end of bowsprit for attaching shrouds, headstay, and bobstay. Installed bowsprit. Made and installed wale. Crea
  7. Added centerboard battens Keel battens Added decking and stained Strapped all blocks with 28 gauge wire, some with beckets, painted them black. Did not cut all leads to length at this time. Will do that when attaching the blocks. Kit part list says there were supposed to be 12 1/8" single blocks. I only counted 11 and I only found 11 places for them on the plans, so I may be OK. These are cast metal blocks and I have wooden 1/8 blocks I can use if I fall short. Using 3/8 square basswood, cut lower part of mast for first
  8. I use the ones shown below from MicroMark here in the USA.
  9. Try putting super glue (ca) on the end of the thread and wipe off the excess between your thumb and index finger. That stiffens the end of the thread so it is easier to insert thru the hole. Or use a needle threader.
  10. I tried to send you some info. Let me know if you got it and I will send you more. If you click on the D in a circle it will bring up a page where you can send me a personal message. Just found out how to do that. Safer than posting address. I think that's what its for.
  11. Sorry, because of space constraints and to try and minimize clutter I periodically throw out old plans and manuals after a ship has been built. If I still had them they would have been yours at no cost, but unfortunately they were discarded a couple of months ago. Hopefully the photos from my build log will be of some help. There were multiple versions of the kit produced over the years. The one I built was from a kit that was over 30 years old. Later kits had life boats instead of ship boats like mine, etc. I will be happy to try and answer any questions you may have. The build manual I had
  12. Faired the parts that were cut out with the scroll saw. Marked the transom centerline. Positioned and glued the skeg/stern post, centerboard, keel shoe and cutwater.
  13. Sanded ships hull, Used scroll saw to cut out centerboard, cutwater, keg, rudder and keel shoe from 1/8 basswood.
  14. It does include sailcloth, thread, and a variety of metal fittings which I had already sorted into a plastic box before I decided to start this build log so they were not included in the photos. No laser cut parts, all deck furniture and the push boat need to be cut out using a saw after copying their shapes from the plans.
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