DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've added the shear strake and completed framing the gun ports. After the glue is cured I will cut away the shear strake to the top of the port frame to define the upper edge of the gun port. On the old MS model of the Armed Virginia Sloop, many builders painted the shear strake to add a little decoration. I decided to make mine out of purpleheart and not paint it.
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DocBlake got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've added the shear strake and completed framing the gun ports. After the glue is cured I will cut away the shear strake to the top of the port frame to define the upper edge of the gun port. On the old MS model of the Armed Virginia Sloop, many builders painted the shear strake to add a little decoration. I decided to make mine out of purpleheart and not paint it.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the black strake and three boxwood strakes above it. The practicum calls for adding a 4th strake and then framing in the gun ports. The ports are then opened up by drilling holes at the corners, and connecting the holes with an X-Acto knife. The better way is to cut the ports BEFORE adding the 4th strake! I used a razor saw and cut down using the hull frames as a guide. The bottom of the port is formed by using a #10 X-Acto to define the line and then sawing through the half frame that needs to be removed with a #13 blade. A file cleans up the edges. As you can see they are crisp and straight. Once the last strake is added to the top off the port, the top edge is defined again with an X-Acto. Please excuse the planking. It hasn't been sanded so the grit, glue stains and unevenness show up well. It WILL look better when done!
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DocBlake got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the black strake and three boxwood strakes above it. The practicum calls for adding a 4th strake and then framing in the gun ports. The ports are then opened up by drilling holes at the corners, and connecting the holes with an X-Acto knife. The better way is to cut the ports BEFORE adding the 4th strake! I used a razor saw and cut down using the hull frames as a guide. The bottom of the port is formed by using a #10 X-Acto to define the line and then sawing through the half frame that needs to be removed with a #13 blade. A file cleans up the edges. As you can see they are crisp and straight. Once the last strake is added to the top off the port, the top edge is defined again with an X-Acto. Please excuse the planking. It hasn't been sanded so the grit, glue stains and unevenness show up well. It WILL look better when done!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've been trimming the little tabs that were used to stabilize the frames when they were glued to the rising wood and deadwood. There are three left to do! You can see from the photo how each frame flows smoothly into the rabbet. My next task is the final hull sanding and attaching the counter and transom.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the black strake and three boxwood strakes above it. The practicum calls for adding a 4th strake and then framing in the gun ports. The ports are then opened up by drilling holes at the corners, and connecting the holes with an X-Acto knife. The better way is to cut the ports BEFORE adding the 4th strake! I used a razor saw and cut down using the hull frames as a guide. The bottom of the port is formed by using a #10 X-Acto to define the line and then sawing through the half frame that needs to be removed with a #13 blade. A file cleans up the edges. As you can see they are crisp and straight. Once the last strake is added to the top off the port, the top edge is defined again with an X-Acto. Please excuse the planking. It hasn't been sanded so the grit, glue stains and unevenness show up well. It WILL look better when done!
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the black strake and three boxwood strakes above it. The practicum calls for adding a 4th strake and then framing in the gun ports. The ports are then opened up by drilling holes at the corners, and connecting the holes with an X-Acto knife. The better way is to cut the ports BEFORE adding the 4th strake! I used a razor saw and cut down using the hull frames as a guide. The bottom of the port is formed by using a #10 X-Acto to define the line and then sawing through the half frame that needs to be removed with a #13 blade. A file cleans up the edges. As you can see they are crisp and straight. Once the last strake is added to the top off the port, the top edge is defined again with an X-Acto. Please excuse the planking. It hasn't been sanded so the grit, glue stains and unevenness show up well. It WILL look better when done!
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in USS Independence by Philthy - Artesania Latina
I picked up four 3" X 3" angle plates on EBay for $7 apiece. Check it out.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in USS Independence by Philthy - Artesania Latina
I picked up four 3" X 3" angle plates on EBay for $7 apiece. Check it out.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Philthy in USS Independence by Philthy - Artesania Latina
I picked up four 3" X 3" angle plates on EBay for $7 apiece. Check it out.
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DocBlake reacted to Philthy in USS Independence by Philthy - Artesania Latina
Hello and greetings! I am excited to start my second build log on this forum for the US Independence made by Artesania Latina. This is my third ship model that I have been steadily building up to in both complexity and size. I wanted to start this build log a little bit different by taking a few pictures of my work station. I remember building models on mom's kitchen table when I was a kid and constantly battling for space. Some of the tools I use have been in my possession for 15+ years and have been steadily expanded upon with a little here and a little there.
Some things I'm looking forward to about this build is constructing my first gun carriages, multiple masts, and more complex rigging. This ship is literally twice a big as my last build so that should work in my favor in the constant battle between big hands and tiny pieces. Well more to come shortly. If you want, take a picture of your work station and share it on this build log
oh I will be sure to add a link to my second build shortly.
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DocBlake reacted to JesseLee in Rouse Simmons by JesseLee - FINISHED - BOTTLE
Painted hull, scored & stained the deck, constructed the bowsprit & started on deck housings....
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DocBlake got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've been trimming the little tabs that were used to stabilize the frames when they were glued to the rising wood and deadwood. There are three left to do! You can see from the photo how each frame flows smoothly into the rabbet. My next task is the final hull sanding and attaching the counter and transom.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've been trimming the little tabs that were used to stabilize the frames when they were glued to the rising wood and deadwood. There are three left to do! You can see from the photo how each frame flows smoothly into the rabbet. My next task is the final hull sanding and attaching the counter and transom.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've been trimming the little tabs that were used to stabilize the frames when they were glued to the rising wood and deadwood. There are three left to do! You can see from the photo how each frame flows smoothly into the rabbet. My next task is the final hull sanding and attaching the counter and transom.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I decided to build the stern assembly off the model as Mike S. did. This consists of the transom proper, the wing transom, the counter and transom framing and the transom beams. I built a jig to hold the parts securely while the glue dried. The jig is just scrap plywood joined at a 104 degree angle (14 degrees from the vertical). Fortunately I have a miter saw and it took just a few minutes to build. While the glue was drying, I started removing the tabs from the foot of each frame, so the frame flows smoothly into the rabbet along it's length. The hard maple is hard on blades too!. I'm about half done and I've gone through four X-Acto blades already. Once the tabs are removed and the hull gets it's final fairing, I'll glue the stern assembly in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I decided to build the stern assembly off the model as Mike S. did. This consists of the transom proper, the wing transom, the counter and transom framing and the transom beams. I built a jig to hold the parts securely while the glue dried. The jig is just scrap plywood joined at a 104 degree angle (14 degrees from the vertical). Fortunately I have a miter saw and it took just a few minutes to build. While the glue was drying, I started removing the tabs from the foot of each frame, so the frame flows smoothly into the rabbet along it's length. The hard maple is hard on blades too!. I'm about half done and I've gone through four X-Acto blades already. Once the tabs are removed and the hull gets it's final fairing, I'll glue the stern assembly in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I decided to build the stern assembly off the model as Mike S. did. This consists of the transom proper, the wing transom, the counter and transom framing and the transom beams. I built a jig to hold the parts securely while the glue dried. The jig is just scrap plywood joined at a 104 degree angle (14 degrees from the vertical). Fortunately I have a miter saw and it took just a few minutes to build. While the glue was drying, I started removing the tabs from the foot of each frame, so the frame flows smoothly into the rabbet along it's length. The hard maple is hard on blades too!. I'm about half done and I've gone through four X-Acto blades already. Once the tabs are removed and the hull gets it's final fairing, I'll glue the stern assembly in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I decided to build the stern assembly off the model as Mike S. did. This consists of the transom proper, the wing transom, the counter and transom framing and the transom beams. I built a jig to hold the parts securely while the glue dried. The jig is just scrap plywood joined at a 104 degree angle (14 degrees from the vertical). Fortunately I have a miter saw and it took just a few minutes to build. While the glue was drying, I started removing the tabs from the foot of each frame, so the frame flows smoothly into the rabbet along it's length. The hard maple is hard on blades too!. I'm about half done and I've gone through four X-Acto blades already. Once the tabs are removed and the hull gets it's final fairing, I'll glue the stern assembly in place.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I decided to build the stern assembly off the model as Mike S. did. This consists of the transom proper, the wing transom, the counter and transom framing and the transom beams. I built a jig to hold the parts securely while the glue dried. The jig is just scrap plywood joined at a 104 degree angle (14 degrees from the vertical). Fortunately I have a miter saw and it took just a few minutes to build. While the glue was drying, I started removing the tabs from the foot of each frame, so the frame flows smoothly into the rabbet along it's length. The hard maple is hard on blades too!. I'm about half done and I've gone through four X-Acto blades already. Once the tabs are removed and the hull gets it's final fairing, I'll glue the stern assembly in place.
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DocBlake reacted to KenW in Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer
Thanks Augie. I used a #78 drill which is pretty small.
Now I’m ready to plot out the deck and start planking. First I added a waterway and planked the inner bulwarks. Then I got the plans, made a copy, cut the deck out and put it all on the deck.
Next I placed the hatches on the deck and added some scrap wood to insure that the hatches and deck planks have something to glue to. I started by adding four 1/8 inch planks in the center of the deck. Some carving was necessary, but I took my time (like I do when I’m making furniture). I also made the bow sprint to ensure it fitted properly.
I want to plank the deck using the method described by Chuck Passaro in his Cheerful log. He says that ships built at this time were planked with curved and tapered planks. And, when I looked at the Rattlesnake plans, sure enough that is the way the deck planking is shown. So I mapped out the planks and used an artist tape at the half way point to check if my plan looked “correct”. Don’t know if it's “correct”, but I think it looks alright.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The transom framing and counter framing will be visible through the great cabin roof (poop deck) which will be partially planked. The kit provided the hull planking in hard maple, but counter and transom planking is in cherry. I just finished cutting out the components for this framing, including the wing transom, out of hard maple to match the general framing. To add some contrast, I redid the transom itself. The kit provides two pieces to form the transom. There is the transom proper (TR1) and an "overlay" trim piece (TR2). Both are made of cherry. I took the outline of the transom piece and traced it on some 1/64" plywood and planked both inside and out with swiss pear. I then remade the overlay piece out of boxwood to match the outer bulwark planking. Once the transom is fit in place, the bottom will be trimmed off and the overlay fitted with a plank as shown in the photo. The second transom in the photo is the two kit parts. I like the color contrast between the boxwood and swiss pear.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The transom framing and counter framing will be visible through the great cabin roof (poop deck) which will be partially planked. The kit provided the hull planking in hard maple, but counter and transom planking is in cherry. I just finished cutting out the components for this framing, including the wing transom, out of hard maple to match the general framing. To add some contrast, I redid the transom itself. The kit provides two pieces to form the transom. There is the transom proper (TR1) and an "overlay" trim piece (TR2). Both are made of cherry. I took the outline of the transom piece and traced it on some 1/64" plywood and planked both inside and out with swiss pear. I then remade the overlay piece out of boxwood to match the outer bulwark planking. Once the transom is fit in place, the bottom will be trimmed off and the overlay fitted with a plank as shown in the photo. The second transom in the photo is the two kit parts. I like the color contrast between the boxwood and swiss pear.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The transom framing and counter framing will be visible through the great cabin roof (poop deck) which will be partially planked. The kit provided the hull planking in hard maple, but counter and transom planking is in cherry. I just finished cutting out the components for this framing, including the wing transom, out of hard maple to match the general framing. To add some contrast, I redid the transom itself. The kit provides two pieces to form the transom. There is the transom proper (TR1) and an "overlay" trim piece (TR2). Both are made of cherry. I took the outline of the transom piece and traced it on some 1/64" plywood and planked both inside and out with swiss pear. I then remade the overlay piece out of boxwood to match the outer bulwark planking. Once the transom is fit in place, the bottom will be trimmed off and the overlay fitted with a plank as shown in the photo. The second transom in the photo is the two kit parts. I like the color contrast between the boxwood and swiss pear.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The transom framing and counter framing will be visible through the great cabin roof (poop deck) which will be partially planked. The kit provided the hull planking in hard maple, but counter and transom planking is in cherry. I just finished cutting out the components for this framing, including the wing transom, out of hard maple to match the general framing. To add some contrast, I redid the transom itself. The kit provides two pieces to form the transom. There is the transom proper (TR1) and an "overlay" trim piece (TR2). Both are made of cherry. I took the outline of the transom piece and traced it on some 1/64" plywood and planked both inside and out with swiss pear. I then remade the overlay piece out of boxwood to match the outer bulwark planking. Once the transom is fit in place, the bottom will be trimmed off and the overlay fitted with a plank as shown in the photo. The second transom in the photo is the two kit parts. I like the color contrast between the boxwood and swiss pear.
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