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Don Case

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Everything posted by Don Case

  1. Don Case
    Has anyone come up with a great push stick for a hobby table saw? I just started trying to make gratings and and it's kind of tight. When you get down to cutting .020" planks and .040x .040" strips it starts to get dicey as to whether you keep all your fingers. My fence is 1/4" high so that may be one thing I can change. The table is about 12" long so ripping anything less than 6" means that the wood is right in the corner between the fence and the table. Is a consumable push stick maybe the best way to go? Any thoughts? Oh, I just remembered the Byrnes saw post at the top of the page. I'll go read that now.
  2. Don Case
    I've been making parts and pieces. Nothing is glued in yet. I improved my "tablesaw" so now I can adjust the blade height(actually the table height) and I made a slide for it. Tried making my first ever grating. The spacing isn't right but it was just a test to see if I could even do one. Cutting out the parts isn't too bad but assembling it is tough. I need to come up with a jig or steady hands or something.
  3. Don Case
    Thanks for the offer Alan but I think I can get what I want from the NMM thumbnails. I haven't compared the frames with the expansion yet, I've been to busy planking and reading Steel. I tried PMing you but it said you can't receive messages Thanks again Don
  4. Don Case
    I got the interior planked up to the lower deck clamps. Big job. I drew up a rough plan but that only lasted a bit. Seven drop planks on each side. A lot of long slow tapers. I don't get a nice pattern. A lot of the butts seem to bunch up in spots but I think I only made one butt spacing mistake. This practice will help a lot when it comes time to do the exterior. There's a little filler in there but no where near as much as I'd be willing to use🙂
  5. Don Case
    I was reading Steel's "Elements" and was just getting in to some plank stuff and then fell asleep. I'm going to read it again tonight. Do you know of hand where Steel said that? I've ordered zu Mondfeld but the other one is to steep for me.
  6. Don Case
    I want to apologize to you guys. I went off the handle and I shouldn't have. I just get frustrated with some of the responses I get when they're not what I'm expecting. I'm green and don't know what I don't know. I have a lot of trouble even formulating questions let alone know what I should include. I figured my build notification at the end of every post would give all the info needed. Even though I don't get all the answers I want I have gotten a ton of info while on here and I thank you for that. Sorry Don
  7. Don Case
    That's the kind of rule I'm looking for.
  8. Don Case
    Here is an expansion drawing of the HMS Squirrel that Alan linked for me. Squirrel (1785) - National Maritime Museum (rmg.co.uk) The plank lengths are blurry but you can make out that most of them in midships are in the 25 or so range. The scale at the bottom is clear enough so you can get closer measurements if you want. Now look at the bow and stern. Note the stubby little planks. A lot of single digit lengths. These planks probably don't make the minimum. These are the planks I'm talking about. How short can they be? My logic tells me that there would be a shipwrights rule telling him how many frames it has to be attached to.
  9. Don Case
    I don't understand. I thought this was a dead straight forward question. It's looking to me like there is no point in asking questions on here. You never get a straight answer.
  10. Don Case
    How short?
  11. Don Case
    I guess I asked that wrong. Is it OK to have a plank that's only long enough to contact 2 frames? I need drop plank as close to the stem as I can get it for maximum taper.
  12. Don Case
    It seems that I've been doing nothing but reading about planking and a lot of places say the minimum length is in the contract ie. 20-25 feet or so. That's not the minimum length I'm looking for. If a ship is 110' long and the contract calls for minimum 25" what do they do when they get to the end and have a 10' gap to fill? Is there be a "plank must cover "X" number of frames or something" rule?
  13. Don Case
    How do I end the planks when they run into the clamp? Do they just butt up to it? With the clamp curving around like that I was just thinking that maybe they should be Joggled(right word?) I've noticed that when the limber strakes run their course they just kind of taper out to nothing. I thought that was a no no.
  14. Don Case
    Yes I can, and will, but I thought I would check and see if there was anything I'd missed.
  15. Don Case
    So we don't use HMS? Your way works perfectly. If you put in HMS Squirrel you get crap. Is squirrel not an HMS? Anyhow, thanks. I'll look at the drawing now.
  16. Don Case
    I went to "collections" and searched for HMS Squirrel and got a "Ships cover" for a 1904 CoasT Guard cutter. I tried "Ships Plans", nothing. I clicked Vessels, nothing. How do you guys find anything on that site? I find nothing but frustration. The only time I've found anything on NMM's site is when Goolle took me in through a side door.
  17. Don Case
    You should have seen them before I moved them the first time! That's a good point though. I'll look and see if I can improve that.
  18. Don Case
    I have to/want to plank this area. It goes from almost a point to 2.5"(10 planks)in about 4" and then tapers off to the stern where it's about 1.5". Are there any options other than a horrible concoction of drop planks in that first few inches? I'm thinking I should draw this on out on paper first.
  19. Don Case
    Whew, thanks Druxey
  20. Don Case
    I have the lower deck clamps in. I had to unglue about 1/4 of both upper clamps as I got a bit of a peak where the clamps joined and the second one wouldn't lay right. IPA loosens Aleene's tacky glue thankfully. The aft end is a bit strange compared to other ships I've seen. The clamp takes a hard turn before it gets to the transom. I managed but it was tricky. Spile and soak and bend. Are some other ships like this or have I done something wrong. Now I can plank up to the clamps I believe. Planking is fun because I get to see my mistakes disappear row by row. Sometimes they get replaced rather than disappear.
  21. Don Case
    This is truly an education Druxey, thank you🙂
  22. Don Case
    It does stay flexible but I tested it on a couple of scraps of wood and it is plenty strong. I'll use it up and then buy ordinary PVA.
  23. Don Case
    I hadn't really decided much past past drilling the holes. I know they should not be obvious. I was looking a thread that used the "fill with dust" method and another that used filler so I'm seriously considering one of those. I'll probably be planking the whole ship but I thought that I could get some practice doing these things where it won't show. Maybe I'll do a pass on treenails on the interior. I guess Google must be listening to me because when I started thinking about this up pops an add from Banggood for a tiny(about 4" long) USB powered drill. It was $10Can so I ordered one. it's going to take six weeks to get here but we'll see. Most of the comments said it's underpowered which is to be expected but one person said they hopped it up with a 9 volt battery and it works a lot better. As long as you don't let out the factory smoke.
  24. Don Case
    1. What do you use for drilling treenail holes inside the hull where a standard hand drill won't fit? I can't imagine drilling a million holes with a pin vice. 2. How deep do you drill said holes? They are mostly decorative, aren't they?
  25. Don Case
    It says on their website that it is a PVA glue. Does that change anything?

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