Jack H

I just sent a courier package to the United States. FedEx requires the prepayment of customs duties, and there is a complex calculation formula for it, with the duty rate being approximately 10%.Fortunately, it is neither the 125% tariff from a few months ago nor 30% currently .

To better fit the structure of the kit, I have modified the fashion pieces jig and adopted a composite structure of plywood and 3D printing.The 3D-printed structure can well match the curvature of the frame's outer surface i think. Today, I have sent the complete set of frame jig to Liu, and he will provide his usage experience soon.

Hi！ The first prototype of the frame jig, which combines 3D printing and plywood, will be sent to Liu immediately. He has been waiting for these components to complete his subsequent assembly work, and this will also serve as a good opportunity to verify the set of jigs. He will provide me with feedback afterwards. And stern.

Thank you for your attention; I think this project will eventually be released, whether it's a kit, full or semi-kit/ basic kit, or the drawings. However, first, this prototype needs to be completed, with the unreasonable designs addressed and the errors corrected. I know that it's impossible to avoid all mistakes; I can only try my best to do better.Secondly, my teacher, who has also participated in some of the design work, and I will discuss when and how to handle the drawings . In general, this project will definitely be presented to everyone once it's completed.

Thank you JJ,thank you Beckmann, This is a 1/4" scale pear wood stern, picture from Wang,with the transoms (and all parts) not glued yet. This is a 3D-printed "Top Jig".Scales and numbers are used to align the top ends of the frames. Liu will test this jig.

Hi！ My 3D printer arrived yesterday. This is the schematic diagram of what I call the "TOP Frame Jig". The yellow part is 7mm plywood, and 7mm is chosen so that it only occupies the position of one frame. The green part is 3D printed, which I call "Frame jig". There are scale lines and numbers on its upper surface. It's really quite rushed right now. Liu will give me feedback, including whether the expansion components for transoms assembly are needed. I once suggested that he eliminate some tenons and mortises, which would greatly reduce the difficulty. However, he wants to take on the highest level of difficulty, so let's wait and see. In my design, the red transoms require precise positioning for assembly. For the gray ones, I have added allowances to facilitate corrections. As for the blue ones, I have disassembled them to make it easier to adjust their positions during assembly, especially the positions of the tenons. This is an assembly method designed by my friend DaHai and me. With an aluminum alloy platform and a wooden pressure plate, after being tightened with screws, the horizontal resistance can reach more than 1-2 kg (estimated value, static pressure). If you try to push it by hand, it can hardly move. The three components of the transoms shown in blue in the diagram will be glued together only during assembly. This way, the splicing gaps will be left on the inner side, ensuring the best possible finish on the outer side. However, Liu may have his own ideas, and I can't stifle his creativity, so I'll wait for his results. I also used another type of metal jig, which is widely used in the CNC machining industry. Its current price is already very low. Previously, it cost more than $15, and that was even the price for a cheap second-hand product. The horizontal resistance of this jig may exceed 5 kg. It can almost correct any deformation—if I may put it a bit exaggeratingly—and can precisely adjust the displacement.

Liu started assembling the cant frames at the bow because I haven't sent him the stern jig yet. I agree with Greg that the stern structure requires skill and is quite challenging. Several years ago, I discussed the assembly of the stern components with BiTao, who is an excellent modeler with great skills. I watched him assemble the stern,same method as Edward's—using a significant amount of allowance. I conducted tests on the wing transom, stern post, and fashion piece. After finishing the processing of these components, I left most of them exposed on my office desk without any wrapping for over a year. Then I put them in a box for about two years. During this period, they went through several seasons. In my city, spring is a rainy season with high humidity that lasts for 2-3 months, followed by a hot summer and a dry winter. Finally, after testing, it was found that the deformation of the wing transom was approximately 0.7mm.So when I processed the filling transom, I only allowed a 0.7mm allowance, but Liu insisted that I shouldn't leave any allowance. Another batch of components, which is what you see being assembled, was mostly processed 4 years ago and then sent to Xi'an, a city in northwest China where Liu is located. After several years, that city is relatively dry. Having been transported from the southern part of China, which is humid, to the dry northwest region, these components have gone through about 4 full years. There is indeed some deformation, and in the coming days, Liu will show us the effect of reassembling these components that have been stored for 4 years. I will introduce some tools I designed myself to correct the deformation of the wood, which should be used at some point in the future if Liu finds that the deformation of the components exceeds the allowable range. The main reason for using CNC to process ship model components is to simplify the assembly difficulty and let the machine handle the tedious polishing work.

Liu completed the assembly of the Hawse pieces today. This is Wang's 1/4" scale pear wood version.

hi Matthias,I provide the wale and the planking above it, while temporary fixing battens are used below the wale, similar to the Bellona in the NMM.

Thank you everyone,thank you Greg,the hawse piece, stemson, and the breast hook you mentioned are not fully fixed. You can see clearly that the hawse piece is not in the correct position and there is a large gap. Liu only used "a drop of glue" to temporarily fix it. He temporarily used the breast hook as a jig to position the hawse pieces. Actually, this is my fault because I failed to provide him with the frame jig in time. In my plan, the bow jig has a reserved expansion interface for the installation of the outer contour jig. However, I don't like the outer jig because it will interfere with the assembly of components. But I once designed an inner jig (frame jig) in another project. Nevertheless, I told Liu that Albert completed the assembly using only curved wooden strips without a jig, so I asked him to use the breast hook as a temporary jig, as you might have guessed. Your experience will be of great guiding significance to this project. After all, 3D design still falls into the category of theory. Personally, I have no objection to 3D printing; it's just that in this project, they require me to use all solid wood components. I haven't completed the design of any other jigs so far. I need to make sure that my design avoids being the same as those by other designers, but the inner frame jig is quite simple.To facilitate their assembly, I need to provide them with the 3D-printed frame jig as soon as possible.

Hi all, My partner Liu has decided to continue with the 1:36 prototype, and several model builders are preparing pear-wood version in 1/4" scale as well as another two sets of pear wood version in 1/3" (1:36) scale.So I'm continuing to develop this project, even though it has been on hold for 4 years – that's way too long,say so sorry.

I'm sorry I forgot to reply to you. I saw your question at that time, but I was busy with other things. Later, I forgot. I saw this post today one more time accidentally ... I use rhino6, silo2.5 ,zbrush2018, and then program machining with rhinocam 2018. The commercial licenses of these software are relatively cheap. I mean, compared with expensive software such as Solidworks + solidcam, 3DMAX, UG, PowerMILL .... But personal use of these software（rhino/cam,zb...） is still a big expense. I spent about $4900 at that time.The price of SolidWorks + solidcam in China is $11,500, from Chinese agent in 2018. Jack

Thank you JJ ,Allan,and all your "likes". For some reasons in my business, it may be another few months before this project continues. Also, due to the pandemic, one of my partners, who made prototype of 1:36 in scale, he wanted to pause for a while.so I needed to restart working on the 1:48 prototype. Thank you all for your attention. Jack

If it's just a bow section, 1:36 may have better details, but as the full kit of the first POF project, I think 1:48 can be considered because many modelers will put her and winchelea side by side, the same scale is better. Moreover, POF projects are very complex, smaller projects are undoubtedly a wise choice (they can be developed faster). In addition, if I am lucky enough to cooperate with Chuck one more time, I hope do better than last time.

I use rhino6 and ZBrush 2018 (upgraded to 2021), so my figure head can be assembled to the model accurately. By the way, my own Cumberland, I was waiting for the modeler to complete the first chapter, so I took time to do something else.

My friend‘s POB La Artesien, process of planking on hull, so I modified the figurehead one more time, a lot of modifications, from head to foot.

Yes，that's basically the first chapter. And then I went on to process the 1:48 parts, and I started to make this model in a real sense, I want to show you my idea, that is, how to simplify a complex POF model into several large parts by machine and hands, so that modelers with common skills and no professional tools can make this complex model. This is the first step. Let's take a look at the basic parts of pear wood and the pre assembled parts of jujube wood on the right.I will process a set of Asian boxwood samples at the same time.Maybe you are tired of looking at those model parts all the time. Indeed, I am too busy. I have to go to work during the day, and then design and process the ship model in my spare time. Maybe I only have a few hours of spare time every day. However, my classmate's processing factory can process these parts in batch ,I insist on testing these parts myself in the hope of finding more mistakes and modifying them. On the left is Chinese pear wood, and on the right is jujube wood. Asian boxwood and jujube wood look similar, but undoubtedly boxwood is the best, more delicate than pear wood, and has good color. In the future, I will release about 3-10 full boxwood kits, if anyone likes them.

Testing samples of packaging, 1:36,the next assembly work will be handed over to Liu, and I will make a 1:48 prototype.

No,it's not the same company,thank you,

No, it's not the final product. I mean the parts I'm going to send out, but it's the first chapter of my plan. I need to finish at least the hull part, which means that I have to complete all the design and prototype of carving set. Secondly, in addition to the first chapter you have seen, there are also need all cant and square frames, then decide whether I can release chapter one. As for those "β parts" ,there are very anxious modelers who are willing to take the risk of project failure and willing buy β Version to participate in the verification of this project, I promise them that if the project fails, I will return all the payment to them.But we don't accept such orders now. My German friend will participate in the second batch of prototypes,if everything goes well, my UK partner will probably make this model in the third batch because he is very busy now. The final English version, including instructions and components, needs to be determined by him--He also owns the copyright for the project and owns 'True Image Models'. We are looking for cooperation with MSW. It will take time to determine many details. In order to reduce tariffs and freight, I am considering whether we can process some parts in the United States. Similarly, I am also considering processing some parts in Germany or UK.But all these need to be accounted for before the final decision can be made. If really can't reduce the expensive price , I will consider the concept of "basic parts". I only process a small number of parts, such as steps, hawse pieces, can frame... and carving set,--i call it ‘plans+basic parts’ or 'semi-kit', which are difficult to be made by hand. The rest are made by modeler himself, which can reduce the cost greatly.You guys can tell us any your suggestions and ideas. Thank you! Jack

Hi！ Maybe I'm processing 1:36 and 1:48 pear wood and boxwood parts at the same time, so it seems a bit messy，but I'll mark the scale of prototype. 1: 36 is a customized model, I can only verify the 1:48 version of pear wood and boxwood myself. Pear wood will be the basic version. I should release the parts of the basic version immediately. As mentioned earlier, the basic version is equivalent to the parts of laser cutting. The difference is that the laser has black carbon , but the CNC has no black carbon . Because the thickness of the laser cutting board will not be too thick, the kit scale for laser cutting is generally small, such as 1:72 or 64. The first chapter parts （1：36）will be sent out soon, and then I will process 1:48 parts of pear and boxwood, you will see the material and color of pear wood more intuitively. Jack

designing quarter gallery figures,

You can stick the support to a square piece of wood first， Then you can fix or clamp the square block， You can even find a way to temporarily fix head and then remove the wood carefully. Jack

Hi all!A little update Using 3D software, we can capture the perspective of any angle of view, which is very fast,about a few seconds, this kind of diagram can be used to make the assembly diagram. Of course, also can make 2D shipmodel plans. Jack