Daniel Kimmer
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About Daniel Kimmer
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Clamps and other methods for holding down glued planks (first planking and second planking)
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Clamps and other methods for holding down glued planks (first planking and second planking)
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Work Light
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grsjax reacted to a post in a topic:
Work Light
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
Work Light
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Clamps and other methods for holding down glued planks (first planking and second planking)
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Work Light
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Clamps and other methods for holding down glued planks (first planking and second planking)
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I'm happy that it works for you. What is the brand? Please keep us posted it it works over the long run. I could use another inexpensive lamp that holds position. The ones I purchased never seemed to hold position. I would move it to a position where I needed it and the lamp, over a few minutes would sag at the joint. and come out of position. I was always having to tighten the wingnut and add tape or wedges to keep it in position. I even tried several of the lamps from different manufactures and always had the same result. I finally gave up and spent way more than I should for a Laguna Tools Chameleon LED Lathe Light. You can mount it with a clamp or you can mount it direct using screws. Very pricey but fully adjustable and always stays in place. The lamp has adjustments for brightness and the type of light from cool to very white. I was able to pick mine up on sale. I now have two of them.
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For the first planking I use plastic spring clamps or modified binder clips. The second layer I use heat bending the plank to "close to proper position" and then masking tape or rubber bands to help hold it in place. If need be, I pin the plank with brass pin nails.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Please explain razor saws to me
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
Please explain razor saws to me
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Please explain razor saws to me
Daniel Kimmer replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
you will enjoy using it, just remember to let the saw do the work. It is very sharp and will make very fine cuts. Just take your time. Great selection on your part. -
Please explain razor saws to me
Daniel Kimmer replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Most of the cutting I do by hand is done by a Ultra Thin Kerf Razor Saw 32tpi. It cost around 10 $. The wood I cut generally is not very thick. I have a small chop / miter saw from Proxxon for any larger wood. I have several of the zona saws but i find the ultra thin kerf razor saw to be my "go-to". -
Keith, When you started the Steam Donkey you thought you would barely have time to finish it and now you're thinking about a Lula and a garbage scow, I love it. The weathering is exceptional. Great work. Dan
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Keith, You stated " The wood used also comes into play. At times I have to mix lighter woods with darker woods to make a piece." Is there wood you need that you don't have or a shade of wood you require. I have a lot more if you need more. Let me know. I have more mahogany, walnut, yellow cedar, and cherry. After reviewing your latest photos I definitely think you really need to keep building models long enough to build a second donkey pile driver where the boiler engine assembly is not covered by a shed, or at least consider having a side panel open where you can see the works inside. All the detail you put into building an accurate boiler engine assembly should not be covered up. Either way keep up the excellent work, I love the detail. Dan
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Ras, I am so envious of your skill. I have all the tools, (lathe, milling machine, soldering unit, etc.) but lack your skill. I'm 67 so I have time to improve. I think the brass and all the detailed work truly makes for a great focal point and just looks fantastic. Your model is a great inspiration to the many of us that lack the skill but can dream. Keep up the incredible work.
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Keith, Awesome build so far, I really like the detail you add to the model. I think you should build two of the floating pile drivers. Have one with the steam engine exposed and the other in a shed, you could then have the best of both worlds. The diorama would be slightly larger, but you could make it work.
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Keith, pretty awesome, keep the pictures flowing. If there is a need for more wood, let me know. Happy to share with you. Your creativity is amazing.
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Keith, I've been following along on your latest project. I took the time to read your entire USS Tennesse log and besides the detail of the build I enjoyed the history. I think your current log is awesome. If you need any more wood let me know. Happy to give you more. If you need a certain dimension also let me know. Like I told you, I enjoy spending time in the basement at the "saw mill" cutting and milling. Dan
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I have about 300 pcs of plank wood, mostly 3 to 7 mils in width and between 1 and 7 mils in thickness. The lengths vary from 20 inches to 36. The type of wood is mostly walnut with some mahogany, basswood, and balsa. I have a couple of rulers in the photos to give you an idea of size. You will need to pay for the shipping and whatever tube, tape, or packaging required. If you're in Michigan or northern Indianna, you can always drive to pick it up. I live 24 miles west of Lansing. Send me a private message if interested. Only giving it to someone in USA or Canada.
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Very impressive work, fantastic model thus far. Will keep following your build.
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fantastic job on the model, the paint scheme is perfect. I'm envious of your skill.
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Kris, The two caliper readout displays show a "zero" button, if you reset the display to zero does it give you an accurate consistent number? If you want to drill holes every 6 mils can you use the zero after each hole drilled to help measure the next 6 mils? The use of the calipers was a brilliant idea. The only reason I stopped using my Proxxon milling machine was due to a lack of a DRO readout. I switched over to a Sherline and purchased a DRO set up from Sherline that I installed. Had I figured out a way to mount the calipers I would have saved myself a chunk on money. Nice going, keep us posted on the durability of the setup. Thank you for sharing.
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I have both the sherline lathe and the mill and love them. A friend of mine has the Taig and we often argued which is best. We reached the consensus you would never go wrong with purchasing either. We both tried the others mill and lathe and agreed they were both very well designed and worked great. His Mill was larger that the Sherlines but I could pick mine up and move it where I wanted (35 pounds compared to the Taig weighing in at over a 100 lbs)) The Taig mill was larger and could handle larger items compared to my Sherline. I found I wanted the ability to move mine if needed (on and off the work bench). I also found a lot more accessories for the Sherline mill and lathe than what the Taig had available. I think the Taig mill could handle larger items and harder metals that the Sherline but for model making the Sherline works great.
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