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Techtonic

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  1. Another great video - Thanks! These will be very helpful, I'm about to start building my Pegasus in the next few weeks.
  2. In Mastini's "Ship Modelling Simplified" he says 16" (about 40cm) is the correct spacing. In LucienL's picture I would say the man is about 4.5 ratlines tall, which would equate to 6' which is about right. 16" at 1/60th scale is about 6.5mm. That is the spacing I used on my Beagle.
  3. Thanks for the video - it was excellent! Very well made and it shows very clearly what is required at each step. it looks like it is going to be an invaluable resource when I come to build mine. Are you planning on doing more videos for the rest of the build? Do you have any estimate of when they will be coming out?
  4. Me too! Though I'm still trying to decide whether to make them fully deployed or furled, or somewhere in between. I made an experimental test sail with some silkspan a few weeks back so that may be the route I go. But it's definitely not as easy as I was hoping to get a good result. My last ship, the OcCre Beagle, came with ready made cotton sails, which to my eye actually look pretty good despite the oft stated scale issues with using cotton. I did find this example of someone else's Pegasus build with sails which might make a useful reference: http://ysmc-world.la.coocan.jp/exhibition/ex2013/16.html. Interestingly it seems like he added an extra royal yard and sail at the top of the fore and main masts. I'll be following with interest how you do it.
  5. I have this kit sitting on my shelf ready for me to start building in in the next couple of months. So I am very much looking forward to seeing your videos.
  6. Are you referring to the three small 'house' like deck fittings? If so, these aren't cabins but rather skylights and stair access hatches. You can see this on the cross section diagram here https://forum.game-labs.net/topic/4728-hms-beagle-with-plans/. You can also get a good view of them here https://www.cloudtour.tv/beagle/panorama_/0_3.
  7. Hey Mobbsie, Good save on the fore peak! You definitely want to fit the king plank before the fittings as it runs under many of them. If it's 1mm too high you're going to have to do some extra work on the fittings to file out a matching recess. You seem to have spaced out the chain plates/deadeyes in a strange way - particularly the ones for the main mast. The spacing on the port and starboard sides look different. On the starboard side, for the five shrouds that form the ratlines you have a huge gap between the fore two shrouds and the aft three shrouds. That will make the ratlines look pretty odd. One other thing - the chain plates should really slope in line with the shroud/backstay that is attached to it like this:
  8. While I like the Star Wars movies I'm not as fanatical as the display might suggest. I just like building the large Lego starships that are aimed at the adult builder. Problem is they only take between a day and a couple of weeks each to build and now I've run out of room. So I needed to move to a hobby where it takes a lot longer to build each model - and wooden model ship building certainly meets that criteria! It's also considerably more of a challenge - and I relish a challenge!
  9. As promised before, here are some final images of the Beagle in her final resting place inside the Old Modern Handicrafts P006 display case. I also added a brass name plaque to the stand. I got the display case directly from ojcommerce.com and I can highly recommend them. The case was well over $100 cheaper direct from them than anywhere else I could find it (even their own store on Amazon), and it arrived within a week of placing the order. It comes ready built in a huge crated box: The case is a perfect size for the ship and really shows it off from all angles: You might just be able to spot one of my other hobbies in the pics, lol. Also, I decided on my next build - I just ordered the Amati Victory Models HMS Pegasus. I figured this would be a reasonable step up in size and difficulty for my second build, and I love the decorative look of the ship. It doesn't come with sails but I'm very tempted to add some fully furled sails made with silkspan. It'll be a few months before I start the build, which will give me plenty of time to research up on it.
  10. Your copper hull looks excellent! Very realistic effect in the end. Well worth the effort you have put in. My next build will be the Amati HMS Pegasus which comes with copper plates for the hull. Though I probably won't go to the lengths you've gone to for realistic weathering. I will be leaning more towards the decorative look than the authentic look as it is a very decorative ship.
  11. Welcome to the HMS Beagle builders club Mobbsie! Having just completed this kit I will be following your build with interest. If you're ordering replacement wood deadeyes note there are actually two sizes of them in the kit - the smaller ones are used for the mizzenmast and topmast shrouds. I did find the supplied thread has some 'tufting' on it - particularly noticeable when backlit. I'm no expert but I suspect better quality thread would probably resolve this. Other than that the thread seemed adequate. I was curious why you left the center deck planks off? Have fun with the build!
  12. Thanks for the useful info Henry. The blocks at the top of each line are all fairly close to the mast. If they were belayed at the foremast pin rail then they could run straight down mostly parallel to the mast. But I think the problem may be that the foremast pin rail on this model only has 6 pins in it in total. The instructions already have you belay 12 lines to these 6 pins - so doubling up on each pin. This is done for the foresail rigging and the sheets for the fore-lower topsail. But all the lines that originate from higher up are belayed out to pins on the bulwark. My feeling is that in the real ship there would have been more pins on the foremast pin rail allowing most of the upper rigging lines to be belayed closer to the mast. But in the model this is not possible due to physical accessibility issues. I did notice on the main mast that most of these upper lines get belayed further aft of the mast so don't interfere with the ratlines. I think with my learned experience of "don't always trust the instructions to be correct", if I was to do it again I would do similar with the foremast. There are pins further aft of the foremast but the instructions use most of those for belaying the foremast gaff sail rigging. I think I would swap these with where the the upper rigging is currently belayed to.
  13. Thanks for the reply Allan. "first thing that looks odd is that there is a shoulder block coming off the yard arm with a pendant and the line appears to run aft." That's definitely how they show it in the instructions - both the paper and video - here's the part of the video where they rig it. You'll see the yard lift blocks are there, just on short tan lines, while the braces are I think what you are referring to, and are on thicker brown lines about an inch long. It is entirely possible (or even probable) that OcCre rigged it wrong. For the sails, I had read in several places about the issue of scale so I knew they were not going to look entirely realistic. But since this was my first ship I thought I'd stick with the supplied sails as there were already enough challenges. Definitely something to consider for the next build though now that I have more experience.
  14. I just finished my first build, the OcCre Beagle (build log). Now I'm questioning myself as to the way I have rigged several of the running rigging lines coming from the upper sails. It's too late for this build, but I'd like some clarification for future builds. I've run these lines in the way that produces the least obstruction from the masts between the top of the line and the belaying pin that the instructions indicate it should attach to. So for the lines to the upper sails that the instructions indicate to belay to the pins on the inside of the bulwark, I've rigged around the outside of the mastop and then back in through the shrouds/ratlines. This is almost line of sight so would put very little strain or friction on the line in real life. You can see this here: There's more pics of the finished ship here that may also help show what I mean. Now that I've finished, I've looked more at other ship builds and see that, on most, lines like these are run down through the topmast lubber hole and then splay out to the belaying pin on the inside of the bulwark. This creates more of a bend in the line, and in the real ship, I would think would cause more friction and fraying of the rope at the point it touches the inside of the masttop. On the other hand I can see that the way I have it rigged would make it more difficult for crew to climb the ratlines. So my question is which is the correct path to use for these kind of lines to match real rigging? Or in the real ship would they belay these lines to pins further astern so that they don't interfere with either the masttop or the ratlines?
  15. Thanks! 8 double blocks 40+ single blocks 6 large dead eyes 10 small dead eyes 11 belaying pins 9 parrels 1 10mm brass ring 2 5mm brass ring 7 3mmm brass rings (though I used more on the actual build than the instructions show)
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