shipman
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Ah yes, the evocative aroma of Humbrol enamels. Revel had their own in suspiciously similar ''tinlets.'' Recently I was talking to someone in the trade, to be told they shared the same manufacturer! Fortunately I still have (unopened) most of the range of colours. No doubt they'll be little collectors items in their own right, even though the contents will probably be solid now. -
I for one hasn't been to either museum since ... or the Cutty Sark.
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Yes. Its a national scandal that the NMM and the Science Museum have removed such fine collections from public view. Don't know what excuses they have, but from the grape vine, the SM hit a point where the dedicated ship staff came up for retirement and weren't replaced. Longridge must be turning in his grave.
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Ship lettering
shipman replied to rlundy90's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
''Nobody expects it to last longer than what it does''. Forgive me Bob, I just cracked up at the irony there. I do agree with your philosophy. -
Ship lettering
shipman replied to rlundy90's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Bob, I have a few plastic model kits built up to 30 years ago. Apart from my catastrophic dropping of a few, they look as if they were built yesterday. Gregory, I'd say that paintwork is untouched, other than years of dust and smoke being removed. Once I was lucky to get a look at paintings in the National Portrait Gallery, London, where cleaned areas were next to un-cleaned areas, with no other 'restoration'. The results were truly astonishing. -
Here you go: a few photo's which show just some of the deterioration of the 'Longridge' model. Notice the hull planking parting and splitting under and where the chain-plates anchor to the hull. The distortion of rope coils on deck, indicating possible changes in humidity at some point? Apologies to whoever put these fine images online for us to enjoy.
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Longridge had to suspend work on his 'Victory' during WW2. In his book he tells how the only place of safety he had available was an unattended, damp cellar in Portsmouth or Plymouth. When I was able to take my last look at his model, I felt that the overall tension of the rigging over time and the inevitable expansion and contraction of the entire structure combined to a point where something had to give. Observing cannon balls scattered around the case, it seemed to me that whatever was happening was a series sudden events that went ping. Result....balls everywhere. I downloaded photo's to illustrate what I mean, so I'll try and find some to share. Unfortunately I won't be able to attribute them. Watch this space.
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Ship lettering
shipman replied to rlundy90's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I agree, Bob. Ultimately, everything degrades. It's the properties of physics (entropy) I guess. I think it's important to not loose sight of the fact that many of us enjoy the process of 'doing', hopefully to a level we find satisfying. As often happens, once we shed this mortal coil, the things we personally value now will be in tomorrows dumpster. It doesn't mean we can't enjoy what pleasure we can while we are here. The model-makers in the 17th century, I'm sure, would be amazed and delighted that we can appreciate their work today. But oh! How much has been lost? Sometimes I get a chill when I think what would be destroyed if just one of the major collections was lost through fire or some other disaster. There aren't that many. It's like most of these 'eggs' are in a few scattered baskets. We are fortunate and lucky to have what there is. It's our love and enthusiasm which is the best preservative of all. -
Looks like you're the Guru, Bob. Good to hear your input.
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Acrylics! The very best I've found are the 'Citadel' paints from Games Workshop. They dry quickly and set rock hard. I've never found any paint so pigment dense. They are 'brush on' and all the ones I've tried need only one coat! Down side is they are expensive and come in small jars. But one jar covers a big area. The American 'One Shot' paints which auto pinstripe and lettering artists use appear to be very similar; I don't think they are acrylic. I've never seen them in the UK and only seen youtube demo's. They do seem to do what it says on the tin. Again, expensive. If they work, then the price shouldn't put you off trying the odd pot of either brand.
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Remembered where I found it.....Donald McNarry.
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Planking Model Ships
shipman replied to alpayed's topic in Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
Allan, your planking pdf is a welcome and generous contribution. Much appreciated, thank you. -
Well, well, Keith, you've solved a problem I've been pondering for a while. I'm struck with your bulwark struts and scuttles/clearing ports solutions and the similarity of these features on the Cutty Sark! So I'll be stealing this idea if you don't mind. I can go to bed with a smile on my face, thanks.
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Hi Pat. Rarely is anything new. I picked the method up over 20 years ago, so long, I forget where. It's worthwhile shedding new light on old techniques as there are new members who find things new to them. It's winter and I have a good trawl through the forums to see what I've missed. This contribution was a response to help someone asking about painting chain. It appears I had a bit of brain lag, as I find this page isn't the one I was responding to. Doh!
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'Our world is much the richer for his contributions.' I think that's how I left it. However, your response cuts a familiar vein. Irony is truly lost by the time it gets over the water. Honestly, 'Frankie', I do respect your knowledge which is clearly immense, especially on the subject of rigging issues. The details you highlight are consistently accurate and to the point. I don't wish to deliberately offend you and if I have, then here I am, publicly apologising. I'd like to take you for a pint and have a good natter. But you're too far away and I don't drink. Please accept my best wishes for the coming festive season; may you be happily surrounded by all those you love. Have a long and happy life.
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Though I admire 'Frankies' tenacity, I've come to accept he has an inconsolable pedantic attitude. This isn't a criticism, merely my own view. He does have deep knowledge of his subject, but sometimes you just can't get the bone off the dog. Our world is much the richer for his contributions.
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The remarkable thing is all of these books are ludicrously inexpensive on 'fleabay'. Such a wealth of information; they really are a steal.
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How much space have you got? Select your favourite period, then hoover everything up. Any and all the books will have something useful in them. Don't just read modelling books either. The historical accounts put so much into context.
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For the life of me I can't remember where I got it from, but I got some lovely 52/54 lpi black chain in 1 meter lengths at a good price. Do a google search, it will no doubt turn up. From 6 inches away you'd swear it was thread. And it's strong. BONKERS!
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Brass Pedestals Installation
shipman replied to BareHook's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I make my pedestals from cut off chessmen from yard sales. Carefully drill your holes through the keel including a strengthening pad inside. Then securely bond a brass or stainless bolt from above. Drill a close fitting hole through the middle of the 'pedestal' and cut a snug slot for the keel. Push it up the threaded part of bolt. The bolt then goes through your base board and is secured with a recessed washer and nut. Cheap and simples; works every time and doesn't move on a 3-4 foot model. -
Clean the chain in Meths. Let it dry on kitchen towel. Put the dry chain on a piece of card, hold one end and draw your paint loaded brush along it. Pick it up at one end with tweezers and drop it onto another piece of clean card several times. That removes excess paint. Hang the chain from one end to dry. Acrylic works best as it dries before the links get welded together with paint. If that happens, you didn't get rid of the excess. The same method works on manageable lengths of wire too.
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Copper wire in thin sections for ring/eye bolts will pull out of shape under the slightest tension in my experience. As for twisting the 'tails' of the eye-bolts, I use lock-wire pliers.
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Just got to admire craftsmanship on this level. It always strikes me that ships from this period appear to be robust. Yet they seem impractical and somewhat naïve, based on the illustrations as provided here. They must have been extremely uncomfortable. Still, eye-watering build. Thanks for posting.
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