shipman

Roger, this is getting silly. No doubt you're correct and I'll go with that. However, all evidence of the fitting just disappears when the bolt is withdrawn? Why would the bolt (a relatively minor bit of kit) have to be withdrawn anyway? Just pulled down May's book and agree the p90 illustration depicts the deadeye chain is (sensibly) attached to the sheer 'strake'. Other than your welcome assertion, I maintain my original question. Could you kindly direct me to your source describing this bolt withdrawal business? I will then enter the New Year with my fevered mind at rest.

That's new to me Roger, thanks for that. So, the 'bolt' should still be evident on unrigged boats(?) Happy New Year to you and everyone else.

Ok, this post is a year old now. Ah, well, hear I go.......what mystifies me with this type of ships boat is the bottom location fittings for the stays and deadeye straps. The above model has 'nails' just banged into the hull. This is a typical modelling feature; but it leaves me unconvinced. When these boats are depicted with masts and rigging unshipped there is never any evidence of these fittings. Surely if a 'nail' had been there before there should be one there after. The sides of these hulls aren't that strong anyway, the stresses on these 'nails' must be substantial. I'm simply curious about this feature which surely demands some justification. I've raised this issue before, to no avail. I have an extensive library of my own, yet I find no answers. The horse and tiller debate worked itself into a frenzy. Perhaps my issue could highlight a similar controversy?

You may be able to modify a plastic model figure to suit. There's a large range to choose from in the model railway world. Whatever you try, I look forward to seeing how you get along.

The instruments are Staedtler. Ah, I have several similar sets from different eras. Show them to kids today and they think you're going to dissect them. I never mastered the ruling pen. Pencil, ruler, a couple of squares, a compass and dividers and some basic arithmetic and you're away! The marvels of antediluvian science.

Yep, tell her I'll be over tonight LOL. We'd better get back to something more constructive on this forum. People are beginning to talk.

You aren't so bad, Bob! (no matter what they say) 'Going to hell in a handcart' is a phrase that comes to mind.

'excuses for imprecise speech'. Trying to remain light-hearted on the subject, it's a bit rich, an American telling an Englishman about the use of the English language LOL. I stand by my original comment. However this is the season of forgiveness ...............hands across the water and all that.

Splendid job, well done. The only thing I would have done would replace the heavy kit spokes. You are right, for it's age it's a lovely kit. As its been around for so long (like their BMW) there's clearly a market. Shame they didn't expand their range of motorcycles.

Thanks for your advice, in retrospect wefalck's point is the way to go. Much appreciated.

Yep, wefalck, I understand what you are saying; which is why I intend gutting my pedal and fitting a simple on off switch. Touch the pedal once=ON. Touch it again=OFF. Retain the original switch as an isolator so if I walk by I'm not going to start the machine by accident.

Hi Bruce, thanks for your quick reply. I understand what you say and agree. I simply wish to use the foot pedal as an on/off switch so I have both hands free. Indeed I may modify the pedal to do just that. All the best to you and all.

Can I operate a Unimat lathe with a sewing machine foot control? If so, how to wire it in? Just fit it in line with the power cord? Advice appreciated, thank you.

Hi there Mark. Seasons Greetings. I picked up a box full of these 'things' at a yard sale for the price of a mug of coffee. They come with 2, 3, and 4 posts. In a range of lovely colours. The head revolves one way and each of the posts revolve in the opposite direction. The principals of a simple rope walk are there. Even if these 'things' aren't what we wished we had, at least one could be used to demonstrate how a proper rope walk works. And all it cost would be a dollar or a pound. Or a cup of coffee. Say hi to Jed.

Seasons Greetings. I'd call this a Robin. An Ornithologist knows it as Erithacus rubecula. But he would accept the rest of us calling it a Robin. Unless you know the (to a layman) subtle differences between the myriad rigs of historical sailing ships, then the layman is quite justified using the term 'Tall Ships'. I agree, each type has it's own correct description. But even in the 'historical' periods, some rigs were confused with others. If a family has a day out at the bay and has the luck to see any kind of sailing ship close up, a youngster may, just may be inspired. Perhaps later in life that child will have that memory and use it to develop a more profound interest and learn what is what. Today a child will have no issue with the term 'tall ship'. It's simply a ship with sails. It's JUST A NAME. To deny that SMACKS OF ELITEISM, pure Snobbery. Perhaps (just to show what we're talking about) we should be tarring our hair, get covered in crude tattoo's and walk with knuckles dragging on the ground.

Hope all you alcoholics sober up before you turn on power tools or ANY SHARP THINGS. These days, my favourite tool is an adjustable chair.

I got a cheepo brass pair off ebay last year (from India) for £10. Actually very well made, I was surprised. If you look up how to use them there's much to be done. Of course you get what you pay for, but mine are capable of doing all the tasks I found listed. Ideal for marking discs and cylinder shapes into equal segments as required. A ships wheel comes to mind.

How many times have I cut my fingers on a blade of grass? Too many. I was told by my grandfather...'there's no limit to stupid'. How right he was.

This may look daft BUT if you don't want the world on a string? Other colours are available.

For a safer more robust, durable scalpel type look up the Swann-Morton 'Supatool'. The blade fits into 2 part handle which closes with a screw. A wide range of blades are available. The surgical scalpels have their uses but the 'Supatool' is much more appropriate for general model work.

Here I am as usual, finding old posts and putting my misguided views forward. My take on fitting and removing these blades isn't going to make me any friends with the health and safety mob and I don't recommend it to the ham fisted and careless. (see 'Supatool' at the end). DISCLAIMER I take no responsibility at all for any self inflicted injuries. Over 40 years ago I was shown how to do it this way; I must have changed blades a dozen times a day and in all these years have never cut myself or broken a blade. IMPORTANT! the business end of the holder must have no knocks or nicks that would cause the slot in the blade to hang up. FITTING Hold the handle in the left hand firmly, with the locating 'flange' facing you. Carefully pick the blade up, flat between the fingers, observing the base of the blade angle is in the same direction as the stop on the handle. Carefully place the wide bit of the slot over the locating 'flange' and slide it along until it stops. Put the handle flat on a firm surface and hold it there. Using a suitable implement (I use a mini screwdriver) ease the blade to the left, pushing against the left end of the slot until it clicks into place. REMOVING Hold the handle firmly as before. The blade has a long notch at the top rear. Place your index finger in that notch and place your thumb against the flat at the bottom and lift that end of the blade and gently slide the blade to the right so it is onto the 'flange'. Then firmly pull the blade off the handle to the right. Dispose the old blade considerately. Left handers obviously have the handle to the right with blade to the left. As with any SHARP thing, keep away from the SHARP bit! BEWARE These blades are not designed to be used with any side pressure. They WILL SNAP and travel great distance with lethal velocity. NEVER use a cracked blade. It has been my experience, using pliers of any kind is guaranteed to crack or break the blade at the slot, more often than not. I use the number 3 and 5 handles with 10a blades. Both my handles are over 30 years old. You may not be aware; Swann-Morton produce their 'Supatool' range of blades and handles, which are more hobby related. These are a much more substantial heavy duty scalpels. The blade is held between the two halves of the handle which is closed with a screw. There is a much wider range of blade shapes and cutting edges. These blades don't break unless seriously abused and remain sharp for longer. My suggestion; if the scalpel worries you, go for the 'Supatool', which is made for our kind of work anyway.

Frankie, I agree with what you say, no problem. Looking at the 'Constitution photo which I based my original observation, the one pin you can see clearly does seem to have at least four turns around the pin. Still I agree with what you say. My original point remains, that the 'spare' cordage coil isn't over the pin its self. Most models I see; that coil is over the pin.

Ah, the photo's depict something I haven't noticed before. The line is first looped in a figure of eight over and under the pin, maybe four or five times. Then the crewman 'hand coils' the line. The coil is NOT passed over the top of the pin (as seen in so many models), but instead a 'loose' loop from the last winding over the top of the pin is past through the coil from behind, then over the top of the coil and then past back and over the top of the pin, securing the coil. The coil is hung from that loop, which can quickly be lifted off again. The crew member must put his arm through the coil again to support it from falling untidily to the deck. May-be THAT'Swhy so many sailors only had one arm! That's how I read the picture anyway; my main point being that the bulk of the coil doesn't actually go over the pin!

Once again, chaps, that's another thing sorted. Many thanks.