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shipman

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Everything posted by shipman

  1. shipman
    Returning to this topic; after studying what I have with regards to my Unimat SL. I've decided it would be nice to have a separate bracket for the mill post, so that can be mounted behind the bed (on the bench) purely for convenience, similar to the Unimat 3 arrangement. The simplest solution would be a spare bed casting. It could be a damaged/mangled one. if the bit that the post fits into is ok. It's true, getting anything for the Unimat is an arm and a leg. Here's my long shot.....has any UK member got one they don't want? I'm not in a rush. The obvious is to make one myself. I'm also toying with making my own steady for between centre's work. Just thought I'd throw my thoughts out there guys. Thanks.
  2. shipman
    Let's not get too carried away with precision.......(1/5th working Merlin).
  3. shipman
    A vivid demonstration that a thing is the sum of all it's parts. What a wonderful way to have ones eye's opened to what can be done. This helter-skelter of virtuosity gets faster by the day. Strap me down for the ride.
  4. shipman
    Another splendid model. Has anyone else spotted Vladimir Putin as the figurehead? Thanks for sharing.
  5. shipman
    The car springs would have been plastered with grease. Being out there and exposed, the 'gaiters' stopped you staining your plus fours. Acres of leather and polished brass smacks of fetishism. These boats have spankers.
  6. shipman
    Looking at the last photo, someone cashed up big time on the leather clad blocks, yet look at all that tarnished brass! Pure neglect.
  7. shipman
    Ah ha! Now it's clear! Rubber sections separated by metal discs, in compression. Never seen this applied as it is. Aren't there some clever folk out there. Thanks guy's.
  8. shipman
    The shock absorbers.....a nagging thought:- the two grainy photo's of these units aren't very clear, but my simplistic interpretation of how these operate suggest the 'rings' along its length (as modelled) are in fact a spring (as on a car suspension unit) which is compressed from either end by the two shackle fittings. I've searched in vain for a clear image of these dampers.
  9. shipman
    Just a thought.....I do hope the awful bush fires afflicting Oz aren't giving grief to you and your neighbourhood. Be safe.
  10. shipman
    Fleabay:- 120W scooter motors going for around £18. Several Unimat owners have converted to these. A bit of a faf to fit but possible. Hell a lot cheaper than the ones previously available.
  11. shipman
    I know it may be an anathema to some, but the Hackney book on how to build the Airfix Cutty Sark gives a very methodical build sequence including most of the rigging and gives suggestions of scale cordage which can be used to interpret any other scale you may choose. It could clear elements of confusion.
  12. shipman
    Pardon my ignorance, but I always wondered what was meant by a 'Chop Saw' is. Now I've seen this photo, it's inspired me to design and make a useful mini table top version, using a natty mini drill just arrived. We aren't always cutting lumber.
  13. shipman
    Enjoying your progress. I noticed your building 'stool' set-up.....and had a wave of the terrors. I do hope everything is lashed down firmly; wouldn't want the obvious to happen as you get absorbed in all that rigging.
  14. shipman
    I just LOVE these ladders! Never seen this detail before. Are they unique to French ships?
  15. shipman
    Following your progress with interest. I admire your enthusiasm. The chainplates are always a problem at these scales, looking forward to how these work out once you put tension on the shrouds. Are you planning using proper deadeyes on the upper masts? The masts would could look much better if you had scraped the mould lines off, that's just me; it's your model and it's coming along nicely. Noticed you have a deft hand with a paint brush; well done. I did a build of this kit years ago; one mod I made was to carve out all the stern windows and applied stretched sprue on the back, depicting separate window frames. After painting I flooded the openings with PVA glue which dries clear. Certainly added deapth and bit of realism. You asked at the beginning how to open square ports and hatches. I do all mine (including those windows) by first drilling a hole in the middle, then gently carve the rest out with a 10a scalpel (the 11a's are longer and thinner and tend to crack and snap. EYE PROTECTION) If you follow Hackney's build sequence you can't go too far wrong....at any scale. I appreciate this is your first build. My advice would be to enjoy yourself, you're clearly learning as you go along. It's too easy to get over ambitious and possibly dissapointed. By the time this one is done, you will be building the next with different eyes. That's a good way to learn.
  16. shipman
    Thank's for that BE. Has the Floquil Verdigris special properties, or is it their version of a particular colour? (I have many paints in my hoard, but none of the Floquil range)
  17. shipman
    Thank's BE (LOL). I'll be looking forward to that.
  18. shipman
    Just goes to show what can be done with a well produced plastic kit as a basis. Some of these kits are truly remarkable, and with a bit of research and mods where required, they can look better than any of the wooden kits, unless you're an accomplished craftsman and prepared to throw away 90% of it! BE, your model is literally, er......Superbe. The link to your original build is unfortunately expired, which is a shame, as I was hoping to find out how you treated the hull 'coppering' colouring. I was fortunate enough to see the 'Cutty Sark' in the old days in her dry dock before fire and 'restoration'. Your treatment is the nearest I've seen to how I remember it.
  19. shipman
    That's a fine model you're putting together. It's all about the pleasure. The Hackney books are well put together, with very clear step by step guides. I have all 3 he did; Victory, Cutty Sark and Mayflower. In my humble opinion these are very much under-rated. The Airfix kit is remarkably accurate if you compare it to the AOT drawings. I'd swear those drawings were based on this kit! Hackney reckoned the kit measures out to 1:171. For a laugh, here's my 20 year old rendition of their 'starter kit' in 1:600.
  20. shipman
    Not one of the contemporary models of ships boats I've ever seen has any indication or evidence that there was any provision in the hull for these 'dissapearing' bolts. Not even the lovely and comprehensive NMM collection, including their drawings which have every conceivable detail portrayed. An additional use for these bolts could have been utilised to lash the boat down on board ship: but no evidence of that either. But it would have been plausible. What you say makes practical sense, Roger; but why is this (important) feature not evident on the models? Returning to my original question:- 'I'm simply curious about this feature which surely demands some justification.' I'd be happy if someone could show me some contemporary evidence of the detail we've been discussing.
  21. shipman
    Roger, this is getting silly. No doubt you're correct and I'll go with that. However, all evidence of the fitting just disappears when the bolt is withdrawn? Why would the bolt (a relatively minor bit of kit) have to be withdrawn anyway? Just pulled down May's book and agree the p90 illustration depicts the deadeye chain is (sensibly) attached to the sheer 'strake'. Other than your welcome assertion, I maintain my original question. Could you kindly direct me to your source describing this bolt withdrawal business? I will then enter the New Year with my fevered mind at rest.
  22. shipman
    That's new to me Roger, thanks for that. So, the 'bolt' should still be evident on unrigged boats(?) Happy New Year to you and everyone else.
  23. shipman
    Ok, this post is a year old now. Ah, well, hear I go.......what mystifies me with this type of ships boat is the bottom location fittings for the stays and deadeye straps. The above model has 'nails' just banged into the hull. This is a typical modelling feature; but it leaves me unconvinced. When these boats are depicted with masts and rigging unshipped there is never any evidence of these fittings. Surely if a 'nail' had been there before there should be one there after. The sides of these hulls aren't that strong anyway, the stresses on these 'nails' must be substantial. I'm simply curious about this feature which surely demands some justification. I've raised this issue before, to no avail. I have an extensive library of my own, yet I find no answers. The horse and tiller debate worked itself into a frenzy. Perhaps my issue could highlight a similar controversy?
  24. shipman
    You may be able to modify a plastic model figure to suit. There's a large range to choose from in the model railway world. Whatever you try, I look forward to seeing how you get along.
  25. shipman
    The instruments are Staedtler. Ah, I have several similar sets from different eras. Show them to kids today and they think you're going to dissect them. I never mastered the ruling pen. Pencil, ruler, a couple of squares, a compass and dividers and some basic arithmetic and you're away! The marvels of antediluvian science.

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