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  1. Thanks for all of the great replies. Looks like I have to hunt down some lettering.
  2. I am in the process of starting a build on a Model Shipways Benjamin Latham. Is there anywhere I can get the lettering and scrollwork around anchor. What do you normally use for these items. Wondering if anyone makes these as decals I can purchase or am I going to have to print my own. Just wondering what you all do, so I can get some ideas for when the time comes to do the lettering on this one. Thanks, Ron.
  3. I recently bought some miniature planes, chisels and a spoke shave from Lee Valley Tools. I have to say I am very impressed with these tiny tools. Casting and machining is excellent. They come sharp right out of the box, although I recommend a final honing. The bench and block plane work great for shaping and trimming parts. The spoke shave is really handy for trimming bulkheads to the proper angle and I like the edge plane for trimming planks. Much, much quicker than sanding or trimming with a knife. They are a pleasure to use. They also have a shoulder plane, cabinet scraper, router plane and a plow plane. All are under $50 US.
  4. I have used a Dewalt machine for years and in my opinion is the very best out there for the price. I outperforms saws that cost 2-3 times as much. The only comparable machine I have found is the Excalibur. It vibrates slightly less than the Dewalt but not $1000 worth. Every other machine I have tried vibrates more than I like. You just can't go wrong with this saw. Best feature in my opinion is the lifting arm. If you are scrolling a piece that has a lot of cutouts, you have to drill holes to make a place to start your cut. On a normal saw you have to take the blade out, feed it through the hole and then reconnect both ends of the blade. On the Dewalt you just loosen the top blade holder and lift the arm. Then the blade is sitting by itself and you can thread it through the next hole. Saves a ton of time and frustration. They have an optional attachment that uses a foot petal, to keep both hands free. (Well worth the money if you do lots of scroll sawing). You can do very accurate sawing with the Dewalt, but like any machine it requires good quality blades and a little practice. I use spiral blades most of the time, but takes some practice to make a straight cut. Advantage to these blades is that you don't have to turn the work piece, because they saw in every direction.
  5. Examining my recently purchased kit, I was trying to figure out exactly how you cut out the wood parts. Do I cut slightly out side the line and then sand to the outside of line or do the parts get shaped to the inside of the line. I wasn't sure. On my kit to get the bulkheads to fit the slots in the deck, The deck slots have to be cut to the inside of the line. Does this mean that all the cuts should be to the inside of the lines? I have looked everywhere I can think of and can't seem to get an answer on this. I don't want to overcut any pieces. Thanks, Newbie Ron.
  6. Thanks Allan. That is what I was looking for. All the best, Ron.
  7. Hi Tim and welcome to the forum. Looks like you are off to a great start. Looks like we have something in common. I too am a model railroader and my first ship build was a Bluenose 2 as well. Am I right in guessing you own Fast Tracks? I seen your Bronx Terminal track work. What a nightmare to build that yard, but you managed to get it done. Best of luck on your build. Cheers, Ron from Manitoba.
  8. Thanks Allan. What I am looking for is more the length and width of the planking, so that I know what size to cut planking for my Norske Love model. Good to know the thickness as well though. Thanks for the reply. Cheers, Ron.
  9. Thanks for the warm welcome. I will definitely be doing a build log when I get started.
  10. Hi and thanks for the add to your group. I have been an avid model builder for many years, but am pretty much a newbie when it comes to model ships. I have mainly built model railroad and RC planes in the past, but didn't find them challenging enough to keep me enthused. I have built one model ship in the past. In 1975 I was in a serious motorcycle accident and ended up spending six months in the hospital in traction. Lying flat on my back I built a Billings Boat Bluenose 11. Ended up spilling a big basin of hot water all over me and in the bed, but have to say was the most fun I ever had building a model. I ended up having to wait to finish it, until I was out of hospital. Couldn't really do any sanding in bed. Now 40 odd years later, I have decided I want another challenge, so I bought another kit from Billings, but after looking at it, decided to put it away for a bit and get something a bit more doable first. Instructions for the Billings boat are very poor to say the least and appears to be a really complicated model(Norske Love), so I purchased a Model Shipways kit that has excellent drawings and instructions(Benjamin Latham). Hope members of the forum will be able to help me out if I get stuck. Looking forward to starting the kit very soon. I am hoping to become an active member of the forum. Thanks, Ron Lundy.
  11. What would be the prototypical width and length for deck planks on a 17th century ship? I can't seem to find any info about this. Thanks in advance. Ron

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