Dan Vadas

Yeah John, I'm pretty happy with the amount of work I did this weekend - especially with how detailed all this is .
 
Hi all,
 
The last couple of things for the Pumps - two Bungs, complete with handles, and the Latch that secures the Cistern Hood :
 

 

 
  Danny

Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale
 
Hi all,
 
The last few things for the Pump Assemblies (almost) - I've made the Forward support Stanchions, the port side Cistern Hood and the Pump Dale for the same side. None will be fitted to the starboard side.
 
The Stanchions support the forward ends of the Cranks :
 

 

 
The Cistern Hood is made from 1mm thick side pieces and 0.35mm boards over the top :
 

 

 
The Pump Dale is a removable item on the real ship - it would be a constant trip hazard otherwise. It is made from four pieces of 0.5mm thick timber, and attaches to the cistern via a board which can be lifted upwards :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

The two tiny pieces of planking between the mast and hatch are exactly what I was talking about before - NO WAY would the real ship have been planked like that. It's not too late to pull them up and replace them with a single piece.
 
Danny

Believe it or not - I've finished this boat already . That only took 4 1/2 days.
 
There are extra hatch covers which can be glued to the deck to make them look more realistic than simple printing :


 
The bridge had some rather flimsy legs, but it all turned out OK with a bit of care :


 
I've used some PE railings left over from one of my previous builds. This comes out a lot better than trying to make them from thread as the kit suggets :

 
The ship's wheel took a lot of careful cutting. It's only 5mm in diameter between the tips of the spokes :

 
I used my hole punch kit to make the various diameters of round pieces of the Capstan :

 
The middle deck Ventilators. There are two smaller ones on the fore deck :


 
The funnel has 3 steam pipes attached, which I cut from paper :

 
The Galley and two Heads were pretty straight-forward, although I cut all the tabs off and edge-glued the various joins :



 
The Bollards are the smallest ones I've made so far that use a rolled paper tube :

 
If I thought the bridge legs were flimsy, they paled in comparison to the Awning Supports. I wicked some CA glue on the edges for strength :

 
The Anchors and Chain. I used 40 link-per-inch :

 
The ship's boat was quite easy to make. It consisted of a mere 4 parts :


 
The tiny Navigation Lights were a bit of a pain to make :

 
And some overview pics of the completed model. It is only 200mm long :

 
The Companionway in this pic is also left-over PE. There is another behind it on the middle deck :



 
And the last piece fitted (as usual) - the German Imperial Flag :

 
I still need to make a base for the model. It will be a simple piece of Card, painted blue.
 
My next model arrived yesterday - just in time . It's a WW2 German tank, a Stug 40. A link to the build log for it will appear in my signature when I get started on it.
 
Danny

Hi all, here's a simple free download from Papershipwright of a German Monitor named Mosel. I'm building this while waiting for my next "real" model. It should only take me less than a week to build this one.
 
Work starts with the bottom of the hull. This is a Waterline model, which simplifies everything a lot . There are five tabs on either side in the almost straight midsection :

 
The internal bulkheads were fitted next :


 
Then the three decks were laminated to 0.3mm card and fitted to the hull :




 
Next the model was attached to a piece of heavy card as a "building board" using double-sided tape, and the sides were fitted. The support struts were rather flimsy until I glued a second piece inside them :


 
I've made the Turret "turnable" :


 
So far it's taken me 3 days to get to this stage.
 
Danny

Funny thing Cathead - I had exactly the same idea as your Proposal when I first made my own Index and posted the "How To" above .
 
It's certainly a good idea (in all modesty ), and quite a few builders have adopted it so far.
 
  Danny

Several members have added Indexes to "Points of Interest" to their Build Logs. This helps both themselves and others to quickly find the page or post to certain items during the course of construction - e.g. selecting "Capstan" will take you directly to the first post dealing with it's construction.
 
Here's how you do it :
 
The Index is merely a collection of Links. For those of you familiar with the method of creating a Link you can skip this next bit.
 
How to create a Link :
 
Find the Post you want to create a Link to, preferably by opening MSW in a separate Window. RIGHT Click on the Post Number :
 

 
This will bring up a Menu. Click on "Copy Link Location" :
 

 
Click on the "Edit" button in the post you want to create a Link :
 

 
Select the word (or words) that you want to turn into a Link by dragging your mouse across it while holding down the left button or using Shift + Arrow on the keyboard :
 

 
Click on the "Add Link" Button in the menu bar :
 

 
This brings up a small Menu. RIGHT Click in the "URL" bar. Make sure the cursor is inside the bar. Click "Paste" in the menu :
 

 
The Link is now attached to your selected word/s.
 
Example of an Index
 
It's helpful to place the Index in the first post of your Build Log, but if you can't do that for whatever reason you could create a Link to the Index page in the first post of the Log.
 
You can Format the text in the usual way (font, size color etc)
 

More than likely, if they are a problem or nuisance.
 
Danny

Hi Richmond,
 
You have gone way beyond "the contract" with the hull framing. It's not necessary to clear-coat it for one thing - save that for the visible pieces.
A common problem with some kits. If you do another card model after this one, consider using Laser-cut framing if available - it saves a LOT of work, and is reasonably priced.
 
A solution would be to fill the entire bow/stern section with card or balsa and sand to shape.
 
I would be avoiding foam (although I've never actually tried using it). If there are any unstable bulkheads then glue some extra card between them longitudinally. DO NOT glue the hull skins to these. You can bring the extra card bracing out to the (inner) level of the skin to help with avoiding accidental crushing when picking up the model, but leave it unglued from the skin.
 
When I first started card building I glued extra card to the faces of the bulkheads for a larger gluing surface. This proved to be a mistake, as you need to use as little PVA as possible to avoid the "starving cow" effect. The glue tends to pull the skins inward alongside where it meets the bulkhead. 1.5mm thick bulkheads are more than adequate for gluing two sections of hull skin together, even though they may not look like it at first. You will get better at gluing thin card edge-to-edge as you gain practise.
 
Danny

Hi Richmond,
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of Card Modelling. I'm pretty well a total convert from the other media (for the time being at least ).
 
Oh dear - MISTAKE. You'll find it very difficult to get PVA glue to adhere properly without removing the Clear coat from those areas that need gluing. I use a Nitrocellulose Clear Lacquer for the initial coating, as it appears to be made from something close to the make-up of paper (don't ask me the chemical formula, I just know it works ). The stuff isn't cheap - around $35 to $40 per can - but it works brilliantly. It's available on Ebay from THIS SITE among others. I'd suggest buying two cans of it - cheaper in the long run.
 
Don't stress about keeping the centre bulkhead square at this stage. Everything will line up when the outer bracing is added, if there is any. If not then feel free to add as much extra card as you like to get things squared up before skinning the hull. Gluing some graph paper underneath the deck pieces would assist greatly in aligning the bulkheads later. (I just thought of that idea when reading this log, so thanks for the inspiration ).
 
Good luck with the build (and your other one). I'll drop in from time to time.
 
Danny

Quick-Find Indexes to Build Logs from Kits
 
 
Up to 1500 May 2024.pdf1501-1750 May 2024.pdf
 
1751-1800 May 2024.pdf1801-1850 May 2024.pdf
 
1851-1900 May 2024.pdf1901-Present May 2024.pdf
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Links above take you to a number of "Quick Find" Indexes to the Build Logs for vessels made from Kits on this Site. They are alphabetically entered by Ship Name and Builder, as well as showing the Kit Manufacturer and whether the model has reached completion. NOTE - these Indexes do not contain those models that are Scratch-built with the exception of "Ships in Bottles", "Radio Control Models" and "Restorations".
 
The Indexes are grouped in the various Building Types we have on this site - Wooden Ships, Small Craft, Plastic Models, Card, Radio Control, etc so you can easily find the type of build you are looking for.
 
They are in PDF files, so you will need to have a PDF Reader installed in your computer to open them. These are available as free Downloads from various sources on-line, such as Adobe Reader:  https://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/
 
When you click on the Link to open your Index of choice you will be asked to Download the file. Select a Folder to download to (optional - the Default is your "Downloads" folder). Any time you open that file from this page it will overwrite the previous file, and paste the new one in.
 
The Indexes will be updated as new Build Logs are started, usually within a few days of them appearing, so it's advisable to update your Indexes periodically. You can view the downloaded Indexes from your computer without having to download them every time, but new ones may have been added since then.
 
In the Index Click on the blue Ship's Name for the Build Log you want to view and it will open the Log. If you want to return to this page there is a Link at the top of the Index marked "Return to Model Ship World" that will bring you back here.
 
To find a particular model quickly in the PDF Index - Click on the Edit Menu and select "Search", which will drop down a Dialog Window. You can type in the ship's name or the Builder (or even the Kit Manufacturer) and it will go to the first one in the list. Keep pressing the "Next" button to find the one you want and then Click on the blue Ship's Name to open the Build Log. This feature is particularly useful in the larger Indexes which have many pages. The pages have a Scroll Bar on the right which you can also use, or if your Mouse has a wheel you can turn that to also go down quickly. Pressing the "Page Down" key on your keyboard also goes down a page at a time.
 
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
 
 

Quick-Find Indexes to Build Logs from Kits
 
 
Up to 1500 May 2024.pdf1501-1750 May 2024.pdf
 
1751-1800 May 2024.pdf1801-1850 May 2024.pdf
 
1851-1900 May 2024.pdf1901-Present May 2024.pdf
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Links above take you to a number of "Quick Find" Indexes to the Build Logs for vessels made from Kits on this Site. They are alphabetically entered by Ship Name and Builder, as well as showing the Kit Manufacturer and whether the model has reached completion. NOTE - these Indexes do not contain those models that are Scratch-built with the exception of "Ships in Bottles", "Radio Control Models" and "Restorations".
 
The Indexes are grouped in the various Building Types we have on this site - Wooden Ships, Small Craft, Plastic Models, Card, Radio Control, etc so you can easily find the type of build you are looking for.
 
They are in PDF files, so you will need to have a PDF Reader installed in your computer to open them. These are available as free Downloads from various sources on-line, such as Adobe Reader:  https://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/
 
When you click on the Link to open your Index of choice you will be asked to Download the file. Select a Folder to download to (optional - the Default is your "Downloads" folder). Any time you open that file from this page it will overwrite the previous file, and paste the new one in.
 
The Indexes will be updated as new Build Logs are started, usually within a few days of them appearing, so it's advisable to update your Indexes periodically. You can view the downloaded Indexes from your computer without having to download them every time, but new ones may have been added since then.
 
In the Index Click on the blue Ship's Name for the Build Log you want to view and it will open the Log. If you want to return to this page there is a Link at the top of the Index marked "Return to Model Ship World" that will bring you back here.
 
To find a particular model quickly in the PDF Index - Click on the Edit Menu and select "Search", which will drop down a Dialog Window. You can type in the ship's name or the Builder (or even the Kit Manufacturer) and it will go to the first one in the list. Keep pressing the "Next" button to find the one you want and then Click on the blue Ship's Name to open the Build Log. This feature is particularly useful in the larger Indexes which have many pages. The pages have a Scroll Bar on the right which you can also use, or if your Mouse has a wheel you can turn that to also go down quickly. Pressing the "Page Down" key on your keyboard also goes down a page at a time.
 
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
 
 

This is a very useful tool for adding Links to another post in MSW, or even another Site. Some of the members on MSW have an "Index" page linking to specific posts in their Build Logs. This is how it's done :
 
Linking to a Page in MSW, or an Outside Site
 
1. Start your new Post in the normal fashion by using the "Reply" button or use the "Edit" button to add a link into a previous post such as an Index. Type in whatever you like until you come to the point where you want to insert a Link.
 
2. Type in a Name for the Link. It might be as simple as Click this Link, or a specific Pointer like Syren Ship Model Company (for an outside link) or Capstan (for example a link in your Build Log Index) so others know where it's going to - the choice is yours.
 
3. It's a very good idea to open a separate Tab or Window in your Browser to find the Address of the Post or Site you want to link to. Some sites won't return to your Edit Box, and you'll lose everything you've already typed to this point and will have to start over - very frustrating.
 
Internet Explorer and Firefox have a small "New Tab" or "+" button next to the open Window/Tab at the top of the screen. Other Browsers may have something similar. You can also open a new Window/Tab by simply re-opening either MSW (for internal links) or re-opening your Browser - there should now be two Tabs at the top of your screen.
 
If you have trouble reading the pictures, click on them to enlarge.
 

 
4. Open the Site and the Page you want to Link to. Highlight the Address in the Address Bar at the top of the screen. Copy it by RIGHT-clicking your mouse and selecting Copy from the drop-down menu.
 

 
5. Return to the Edit Page by opening the first Tab. Highlight the Link Name you previously typed in.
 

 
6. Left-click on the Link Button.
 

 
7. This opens a small window to which you add the link.
 

 
8. Paste the Address into the bar by placing the cursor inside it and RIGHT-clicking your mouse. A drop-down window appears. Select Paste, then OK.
 

 
9. The Name Text is now a Link. Click the OK button.
 
You may Format the text in any way you choose (if you wish to) - Font, Size, Bold, Italic, Color etc using the menu buttons at the top of the Edit Box.
 
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Linking to a SPECIFIC POST in MSW
 
This feature is excellent for those members who want to construct a Build Log Index, and those who want to link to a specific post instead of just the page.
 
1. Follow Steps 1 to 3 above.
 
2. Open the Page the Post is in. Scroll down to the actual post.
 
3. In the top-right corner of the post you will see this button which is actually the Post Number for the Topic :
 

 
4. RIGHT-click on the Post Number and a drop-down box appears. Select "Copy Link Location".
 

 
5. Follow steps 5 to 9 above.

Hi all,
 
I've had several requests to show how I built some special clamps that come in particularly useful if you are building a Fully Framed hull. They could also come in handy for other more "conventional" builds.
 
 

 
 
There are three types of Clamp :
 
1. The first goes between Frames to hold internal or external planks.
2. "Spreader" clamps that hold internal planking.
3. Parallel clamps that don't pull two pieces out of line like normal spring clamps have a tendency to do.
 
Full Credit for these clamps goes to EdT (Ed Tosti) - I'm only showing my method of copying his ideas. Ed's are probably of superior quality to mine - I've used a more simplified approach that can be done fairly easily by most builders using common Right-Hand threaded screws.
 
"Between the Frames" Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These are made from 3/4" x 5/32" (19mm x 4mm) brass machine screws or threaded bar and matching Wing Nuts - I found them at Bunnings, but they should be available at any reasonably good Hardware Store. The other brass part is some thin brass strip - I used 0.5mm. Note that you can use any sizes of screws and strip - I just used whatever I had "on hand" or could buy easily. I wouldn't go much thinner than the 0.5mm strip though - it's plenty strong enough and will fit right down into very narrow gaps between frames.
 
I cut the heads off the screws, cut a 4mm deep slot into the cut-off end and Silver Soldered the two pieces together. Then I drilled a 2.5mm hole to accept the 2mm Pin. A bit of "oversize" makes it a lot easier to push the pin through the hole.
 
The wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood - I used Australian Cherry Ballart because I had quite a bit of it in stock, but any other close-grained hardwood would do the job. A 2mm hole was drilled for the pin - this needs to be a good but "easy" slide-in fit.
 
The only item of note not shown in the pics below is some extra bracing I glued to one face of the larger block - this prevents the wood from splitting when pressure is applied. It strengthens the saw cut (these pics were taken before I had my first "Block Failure"). Note the direction of the grain in the large block.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Spreader Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These Clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp planking etc and can't use one of the "Between the Frames" clamps, although they can be used in combination with one of them as shown in the pic above. They work very well anywhere inside a hull. I made these in 4 or 5 different lengths depending on the position in the hull they were to be placed. All parts were interchangeable, so a lot of length combinations could be used - the only difference is in the lengths of the brass tubing, the "heads" and "tails" of the clamps are all identical.
 
I used 4mm x 25mm RH-threaded Stainless Steel Machine Screws, Washers and Nuts (again because I had a lot of them in stock - any other combination around that size would be OK). The "swivels" are made from 1/4" (6.5mm) brass round bar that have been drilled and tapped to accept the screws. 5mm brass tubing of various lengths is the only other thing needed.
 
Again, the wooden pieces are made from a good hardwood. The "head" is drilled to accept the swivel, the "tail" is epoxied to the screw to prevent it from falling out when the clamp is tightened. I sanded the end of the "head" to allow it to pivot when necessary.
 
 

 

 
 
Parallel Clamps
 
 
In Use :
 
 
These clamps are particularly useful when you need to clamp two pieces together without distorting their faces from each other. They also avoid the twisting effect that you can get with G-clamps, but are usually used in similar situations to them.
 
They are made from two pieces of hardwood, 8mm x 11mm x 65mm. The same size Swivels as the "Spreader Clamps" are used, with the same size screws as the "Between the Frames" clamps. Again, use any sizes close to the mark that you can get - it's not all that vital.
 
Here's an Exploded View of the Clamp :
 
 

 
 
And a description of how it goes together is below. Two Swivels are threaded to accept the screws, one is a "clearance" hole drilled right through, and the fourth is a clearance hole drilled part-way into the swivel to act as a "stopper". This one is glued into the timber with Silicone or Epoxy.
 
 

 
 
I made about 18 "Between the Frames" clamps, 10 "Spreader" clamps and 6 "Parallel" clamps - that seems to be adequate.
 
  Danny

Thanks guys, but the pics above only show the damage, not the repairs (there was damage on TWO masts). Here are the repairs :
 

 

 
 Danny

Thanks George, Dave, Greg (that happened and Christian. Robin, I think Druxey explained how they fitted in the post you put up - I don't know any more about them.
 
The Cat came back       !!!
 
Below are some pics of the damage caused by Pud on his most recent (and hopefully LAST) excursion through my ship. All damage has been repaired, and wasn't quite as bad as it first appeared. The Crowsfoot Euphroe block lashing was the most difficult piece to repair. The whole repair job took me a full morning, but Pud is still alive and well
 

 

 

 
 Danny

Thanks for the comments Christian, Carl, Ed, Maury, Alex, Mike and Greg. Much appreciated as always.
 
 
Christian - 1050 long (from tip of Bowsprit to tip of Driver Boom) x 740 high x 355 wide.
 
Jib Net
 
This is one of the fiddliest parts to make on the whole ship. It took me 2 1/2 days.
 
It starts by making the two spreaders from English Box. Then the two Horses were threaded through the holes in each end of the spreaders and an eye seized into the inboard end of each horse :
 

 

 
To tie the netting together I constructed a simple Jig :
 

 
Five double lengths of the netting were hitched around one spreader :
 

 
Then the tedious work of tying together every 2nd pair of the longitudinal netting began. The first couple of rows didn't turn out too well under magnification, but look OK to the eye :
 

 
Two days later (I had to wait for the glue to dry on the seizings before continuing on the next row) the second spreader was hitched to the free end :
 

 

 
The net fitted to the bowsprit. The forward ends of the horses attach to the eyebolts in the sides of the cap :
 

 

 
The aft ends of the horses are attached via lanyards to an eyebolt in each knighthead :
 

 
 Danny

Or perhaps one of those very thin blades you can get for a Dremel etc - they are only 0.14mm (0.005") thick.
 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Patrick, Grant, Keith, Rowan Elia, Mark, Tony, Lawrence and Row .
 
Well this project is finally finished and delivered to it's owner - to say she was delighted with the result would be an understatement . I told her at the start that I'd have to charge her for any materials I had to buy, and she said that was no problem at all. Total expenses were just under $150 for such things as a bottle of Acetone, another of Turps, paint, extra timber, glue, knife blades etc. I was going to donate my labour, but she would have none of that and I received a very nice surprise when I opened the envelope with the money later that day - an extra $100 . My total labour worked out at about 80c an hour, but like I said I would have been quite happy to do it for free .
 
Here are the pics of the finished ship, with a couple of "before's" under some of them :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Please ignore the way she's rigged - my aim was always to make this a "decoration", not a historically correct model. I only rigged the Lifts and Braces to all the yards, and threw in the Sheets and Tacks for the Fore and Main Masts to help "fill in the gaps". The rigging fulfills that aim. BTW - I know the Braces for the Main Yards should have been around the other way (i.e. toward the Mizzen Mast), but it would have left too much empty space in the middle .
 
I'm already a fair way into my next "holiday van" project - a similar situation to this project where the original builder passed away before completing his model of an Artesania Latina "King of the Mississippi" and I'm completing it for his family. Here's a LINK to it if you're interested.
 
Work will also be done on "Vulture" in the meantime .
 
  Danny

..... continued
 
Below are a couple of pics of the completed Standing Rigging :
 

 

 
The start of the Bowsprit rigging :
 

 
About now I realized my camera battery was running low, so not many progress pics were able to be taken. Here all the Yards have been attached and the Running Rigging is complete :
 

 

 
I'll take some more closeup pics of the rigging next trip. Bear in mind that I've done a VERY simplified rigging - virtually only the Lifts and Braces for each Yard. I might add the Sheets and Tacks for the lower yards - that area looks a bit bare.
 
Last pic is of the port anchor :
 

 
Apart from painting and fitting the ship's boats the build is now complete. The remaining work will take me a couple of hours, but that will be next week. Then I can deliver the ship to the owner .
 
  Danny

Steering Rigging
 
I also rigged the Steering Wheel to the Tiller. I removed the previously fitted eyebolts in each side, as it's MUCH easier to strop the blocks to them in my vice rather than on the ship.
 
The blocks are 6" (3mm) from Syren Ship Models, and the line is 3" (0.45mm) from the same place - great stuff, thanks Chuck . I also seized the line to the starboard side of the Tiller off the ship :
 

 

 
Then I replaced the eyebolts/blocks on the starboard side and glued in the wheel :
 

 
Five turns around the wheel Hub, replaced the Port side blocks and did the rather fiddly seizing to the port side of the tiller - TWICE. The first attempt wasn't as successful as I'd have liked - I took over an inch of slack out of the line the second time :
 

 

 
Some views of the completed rigging. Note the very small nail in the centre of the turns on the hub :
 

 

 

 
See you all in a couple of weeks.
 
  Danny

..... continued
 
Below are a couple of pics of the completed Standing Rigging :
 

 

 
The start of the Bowsprit rigging :
 

 
About now I realized my camera battery was running low, so not many progress pics were able to be taken. Here all the Yards have been attached and the Running Rigging is complete :
 

 

 
I'll take some more closeup pics of the rigging next trip. Bear in mind that I've done a VERY simplified rigging - virtually only the Lifts and Braces for each Yard. I might add the Sheets and Tacks for the lower yards - that area looks a bit bare.
 
Last pic is of the port anchor :
 

 
Apart from painting and fitting the ship's boats the build is now complete. The remaining work will take me a couple of hours, but that will be next week. Then I can deliver the ship to the owner .
 
  Danny

Easier to replace when they get damaged?
 
  Danny

Knee of the Head Construction
 
The Stem is constructed from eight pieces, which were through-bolted on the real ship.
 
Construction starts with the lowest one - the Gripe. A card template of the Stem was first created, and the inner edge cut to it. This was dry-fitted numerous times until a perfect fit was achieved, then the outer edge was cut in. Much work was involved in getting a good fit to the keel joint. "Caulking" was applied with an Archival Ink Pen :
 

 
 
Next is the most complex one - the Lacing Piece. This took about 2 hours to make.
 
I had an accident much later in the build and snapped this piece    . The full story can be found HERE .
 
 

 
 
The next two pics show six of the pieces making up the Knee :
 
 

 
 

 
 
The Knee tapers in both a fore-aft direction, and also from top to bottom :
 
 

 
 
The two upper pieces of the Knee. The Gammoning Slot and Bobstay holes have been drilled in :
 
 

 
 
Rubber Bands were used to hold the Knee while the glue dried :