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Dan Vadas
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from deadbrotherbear in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Senior ole salt in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
As well as Daniel's aforementioned masts for small ships, BAMBOO BBQ SKEWERS are also the perfect material for making Treenails. A pack of 100 skewers costs about $2.00 and will make about 80,000 treenails (rough estimate ).
Using a sharp Xacto knife, split the skewer lengthways into as many strips as possible - depending on the quality of the bamboo used (which varies between brands and even individual skewers) you can get up to 8 or 9 thin strips. Pull these through a Drawplate until the desired size is reached - 0.024" is perfect at 1:48 scale. Use pliers to pull any stubborn strips through the drawplate - bamboo splinters are almost impossible to get out of your finger . Trim the end as needed.
One finished piece should yield about 100 "nails".
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from cog in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Hi again Mark,
Ah .... then the gunports won't be such a big issue as the framing under them won't be seen - if you finish a bit short on a frame or two you can always pack them.
I'm no authority on French ships - as a matter of fact I know nothing at all about their construction apart from a few things I've picked up from your Log and a few others, so I won't be able to give you any useful advice in that regard. As far as building tips go, that's a different story , and I'll be glad to help in any way I can.
One thing I thought of a few minutes ago - in English ships of the latter half of the 18th century (my area of expertise ) the Port Sills are horizontal athwartships. Does the same apply for French ships, or are the sills the same angle as the deck camber?
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Bindy in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
As well as Daniel's aforementioned masts for small ships, BAMBOO BBQ SKEWERS are also the perfect material for making Treenails. A pack of 100 skewers costs about $2.00 and will make about 80,000 treenails (rough estimate ).
Using a sharp Xacto knife, split the skewer lengthways into as many strips as possible - depending on the quality of the bamboo used (which varies between brands and even individual skewers) you can get up to 8 or 9 thin strips. Pull these through a Drawplate until the desired size is reached - 0.024" is perfect at 1:48 scale. Use pliers to pull any stubborn strips through the drawplate - bamboo splinters are almost impossible to get out of your finger . Trim the end as needed.
One finished piece should yield about 100 "nails".
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the tip Mark, but it would have to be a VERY small chess set - the Crown is only 4mm high .
Pilasters
The final pieces of this jigsaw puzzle - the Pilasters. The first pieces I made were the Bases and Capitals. These were cut from a length of molded English Box :
The Columns were done in similar fashion, from long lengths of molded stock :
Some pics of the finished assembly ready for a coat of Minwax :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Chesstrees
The Chesstrees house a sheave that acts as a "lead" for the Main Tack before it enters the forward Fixed Block and then belays around the cleat. They are positioned just aft of the fixed block.
I made the two chesstrees from English Box, both as a color contrast and because of the thin section around the sheave which required a very close-grained timber to avoid splitting. The first one was a "character building exercise" - it took me about 2 1/2 hours to shape. The second one took about 10 minutes .
The (working) sheaves are 2.65mm in diameter and 1mm thick :
The second chesstree ready to cut off the piece of stock - after taking this pic I prepared everything (molding on the outer face, sheave hole and "bolts") for this one before cutting it off :
The Main Tacks are quite large - 5 1/2" in circumference, the scale equivalent being 0.9mm diameter. I threaded some line through both the chesstree and the fixed block to make sure I'd made the slots large enough to pass the line through :
I made two mistakes (which will remain) on the first one - anyone spot them ?
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from billocrates in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Hi all, back from my holidays again .
Channels
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Hi all, back from my holidays again .
Channels
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from zozo in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Hi Mark,
I'm betting it will - why do a Full Frame model and cover it all up??? Once you have sorted the issues with the Hahn framing plan, and the first few PERFECTLY MADE AND POSITIONED frames go in ...... well ......
If you were going to fully plank the model - why bother starting over ??? If you decide to go ahead with ply bulkheads I can already see what will happen - halfway through building the hull you'll get dissatisfied with the "shortcut" and start on Licorne v3.0 .
A word of advice - DON'T. There are minute variations in the height and angle of sheer on EACH frame. No amount of careful measuring and cutting will get them EXACTLY right. There will be gaps that stand out like the dog's proverbials when you come to fit the Port Sills. A better strategy is to leave the frames at least 2mm too long and trim them to size with a sanding stick that goes through to the opposite port after at least the Deck Clamps go in (I left mine until after I'd planked the deck). Leave out the Toptimbers above the ports until the lower sills have been trimmed. Same goes for the other Toptimbers - leave the final trimming until MUCH later in the build.
And .... what TimC said above about planning .
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from cog in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Hi Mark,
I'm betting it will - why do a Full Frame model and cover it all up??? Once you have sorted the issues with the Hahn framing plan, and the first few PERFECTLY MADE AND POSITIONED frames go in ...... well ......
If you were going to fully plank the model - why bother starting over ??? If you decide to go ahead with ply bulkheads I can already see what will happen - halfway through building the hull you'll get dissatisfied with the "shortcut" and start on Licorne v3.0 .
A word of advice - DON'T. There are minute variations in the height and angle of sheer on EACH frame. No amount of careful measuring and cutting will get them EXACTLY right. There will be gaps that stand out like the dog's proverbials when you come to fit the Port Sills. A better strategy is to leave the frames at least 2mm too long and trim them to size with a sanding stick that goes through to the opposite port after at least the Deck Clamps go in (I left mine until after I'd planked the deck). Leave out the Toptimbers above the ports until the lower sills have been trimmed. Same goes for the other Toptimbers - leave the final trimming until MUCH later in the build.
And .... what TimC said above about planning .
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to DORIS in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
What a beauty, Danny!
Excellent and professional work and sense for detail. I really enjoyed the pics. My admiration to your precision and high level of realism.
Kind regards
Doris
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the tip Mark, but it would have to be a VERY small chess set - the Crown is only 4mm high .
Pilasters
The final pieces of this jigsaw puzzle - the Pilasters. The first pieces I made were the Bases and Capitals. These were cut from a length of molded English Box :
The Columns were done in similar fashion, from long lengths of molded stock :
Some pics of the finished assembly ready for a coat of Minwax :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Kevin in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
But wait John .... there's more .
Lower Finishing
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope ).
Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Chesstrees
The Chesstrees house a sheave that acts as a "lead" for the Main Tack before it enters the forward Fixed Block and then belays around the cleat. They are positioned just aft of the fixed block.
I made the two chesstrees from English Box, both as a color contrast and because of the thin section around the sheave which required a very close-grained timber to avoid splitting. The first one was a "character building exercise" - it took me about 2 1/2 hours to shape. The second one took about 10 minutes .
The (working) sheaves are 2.65mm in diameter and 1mm thick :
The second chesstree ready to cut off the piece of stock - after taking this pic I prepared everything (molding on the outer face, sheave hole and "bolts") for this one before cutting it off :
The Main Tacks are quite large - 5 1/2" in circumference, the scale equivalent being 0.9mm diameter. I threaded some line through both the chesstree and the fixed block to make sure I'd made the slots large enough to pass the line through :
I made two mistakes (which will remain) on the first one - anyone spot them ?
Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Hi all, back from my holidays again .
Channels
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Augie,
The closest Rockler's is 250 miles north in Portland. Hmm.... I'll have to think if it's worth a road trip, especially since I dislike driving in Portland.
Danny,
I hear you and know where you're coming from since I have the same view. I'm leaning towards a Confederacy type of planking with an open area below the main wales. My post #38 says fully framed even if the framing isn't French. I've been giving this some thought for a long time and the bulkheads, while quick and dirty, aren't what I want for this ship build.
Gunports.. oh yeah... I hit those issues on the Version 1.0. Luckily (?) the sills are not bird-mouthed into the frames. But I can at least get within a few mm where the sills should be. Cleaning out the port area on the frames this time will be an issue since frames are only 5 mm (3/16") wide (fore and aft) and opening the port will take half that amount so I need to at least get some of the material (but not all) removed early on. There will be filler added on frames to help. This time around, I'm not going to stress out too much on the gunports. There's a few ports towards the bow where the clamp will need trimming at the top sill area but that's not a major issue.
I'm doing this one right with timber that will be spot on to the dimensions as opposed to making them too thick.
At this point, I think I know where I want to end up and that is NOT doing a Version 3.
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Dan Vadas reacted to Intasiabox in Archival Ink Pen Question
We'll I tried my pens on a couple of planks to see the results and Danny was spot on. The brush tip was much easier to control on the side of a thin plank and by doing just one side of two boards butted up to each other a very scale appearance of caulking is produced.
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Dan Vadas reacted to 42rocker in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
At this point think long and think hard as to what you want at the very end. Thinking about the amount of work that you put in on your first build and how you did it. Do you really think that you would be happy in the end with doing anything less than another try at getting the Hahn method corrected and the way that you want it? I again say review what you want for your end project.
That said
GOOD LUCK in this as it's for sure your call.
Later Tim
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
Danny
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