Dan Vadas

She will be fully rigged Kevin.
 
Danny

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

I'm serious again…...
The ratlines at the port side at the main mast are done.
And a few pics to let you know that I'm telling the true…..
 

John, Anya, Michael, Danny, Popeye & Mark - Thanks for your kindness and support everyone.  The Issue hasn't been resolved yet but I have begun developing options and I have determined that there is a 'home' for the Dame in a worst case scenario that the original intended recipients cannot take her.  So, still some loose threads but not nearly as many, or as entangled, as I had first encountered.
 
Will - Popeye's suggestion is the best and simplest but if that fails then my suggestion would be to scratch build what you need.  If you go through the Dame's Build Log you will see that I have done that with the windlass pump and many of the stanchion posts ... along with too many other parts to remember.  The thought of scratch building might 'seem' intimidating but once you try and fail and try again and succeed it becomes clear that it's not so much 'talent' as practice that matters in such things.  And always keep in mind when you're scratch building that the point is Not to get it right the first time but simply to eventually get it right, or as Dory says in Finding Nemo, "Just keep swimming."
 
Well I'm back at it after yet another hiatus.  The stoppage was partially due to my realization that I kind of pushed myself to get started again (my back is still recovering, much better now but there are those minor issues which keep cropping up).  This impatience led to the snapping of the bowsprit and so I stepped back and let myself, and the Dame, heal and rest some more.  Then, once I felt ready to get back at 'er, Life threw me curve balls in the form of unseasonably hot weather, changes in the work I do at work in the heat, the opportunity to paint the interior of our place and so forth.  But today I got back to it in a small way, just a taste in order to dip my toes.  And speaking of 'so forth' I thought I'd start this photo posting off with an image of one of the distractions ...
 

For anyone interested the band is Rush and the song they are playing is Caravan.
 
And now here we have the repaired bowsprit - and I just noticed my photo has that weird 'bending' thing where it looks like the bowsprit is bent but rest assured that to the eye is looks straight.

 
Here I finally attach the upper 'rail' along the aft posts, or stanchions.  


 
And now I can finally 'tie off' the ensign halliards, vangs and sheets for the Spanker set up.  In order to prevent 'bowing' as I was using nylon line for the rail I stiffened the portions where the ties were going with dabs of 'super thin' CA.


 
And ending with a top down view, I was trying to show off the symmetry but I could not get the correct camera angle for that effect, so this image is slightly 'oblique' as they say.

 
Now onto the remaining fore and aft rigging and after that the braces ... the sense of impending completion is starting to make me grin randomly.  Back soon with more - I promise

There has been nothing to show for the last few weeks since I turned in my workshop and tools in for a tent and hiking boots. 
 

 
Now I am back and have started on the structures which sit on the lower deck.  My plan is to erect the fore and aft bulkheads first and then install the upper well. 
 
The foremost structure is a breast hook which is located between the lower and upper beams.  On the Mylar plan this is shown as a horizontal structure but on the NMM draft it is canted up 30 degrees.  This was made using a template out of 8" (scale) stock.  There are nine bolts that secure the breast hook to the frames.  Because of the angle, the bolts are all decorative.
 
The bulkheads are made of 2" x 6" material.  I made a sheet of eleven rows of planks long enough to fabricate all of the fore bulkheads (approx. 14" long).  The location of the various bulkheads was confirmed from the plan and was identical to the plan shown in the book.  The first five beams had to be temporarily installed so that notches could be cut into the bulkheads. I have attached pictures with the beams in place and removed to show the notches.  At this point, nothing has been permanently installed.  The next steps include fabrication of the lanterns and doors.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Lawrence and Mick for stopping by and for the kind words.
 
Well, it's been a bit of a block party here today.  Finished making the blanks for the remaining sizes of blocks, and then got to actually finishing some.  I decided to start on the largest size (1/4" or 6.35mm), as I figured these would be easiest to work with and I could refine the technique with them.
 
All went pretty much according to plan.  The mods to Chuck's box jig seem to be working well and the new Proxxon drill press is a dream to use.  I then put the completed blocks through my series of home-made block tumblers, giving them three minutes in each of the 120 and 400 grits, and then finally five minutes in the 600 grit.  Here is the net result of my afternoon's work - 236 x 1/4"  "Chucky Blocks":
 

 
Here's a close-up:
 

 
Other than a little final tidy up to some of the sheave holes, I think they came out pretty well. 
 
Next up, the 3/16" (or 4.75mm), then 5/32" (4mm), and 1/8" (3mm).  I'm pretty confident with each of these sizes.  I've also prepared blanks for 3/32" (2.5mm) and 5/64" (2mm), but I'm a little less confident with these.  We'll see how I go as I work my way down in size. 

Wing Transom Knees
 
It was at this stage of the build that I discovered a problem with the height of the Upper Deck Clamp at the Transom. For my "fix" check out This Link.
 
The Wing Transom Knees are very similar to any other Lodging Knee and were made in similar fashion :
 
 

 

 
 
Note that the Wing Transom is not entirely accurate in these pics - another "fix" was needed and will be detailed later in the build.

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

Thank you Tony, Brian, Toni, Grant and Alistair.
 
Brian, the stain was spirit based Wattyl. I've thinned it down even more on the rest of the breech ropes (about 60% turps). The first one can go right down the back under the quarterdeck.
 
Hi Alistair, good to see you back again. Enjoy the ride .
 
Here's a couple of pics of a completed gun. I'm going to show them all as "run out" except for Number 3 which will be at full recoil with a train tackle :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Tony, Brian, Toni, Grant and Alistair.
 
Brian, the stain was spirit based Wattyl. I've thinned it down even more on the rest of the breech ropes (about 60% turps). The first one can go right down the back under the quarterdeck.
 
Hi Alistair, good to see you back again. Enjoy the ride .
 
Here's a couple of pics of a completed gun. I'm going to show them all as "run out" except for Number 3 which will be at full recoil with a train tackle :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hi Nils,
 
 
I advise that you do the rudder before anything else. You really should have done it long ago, as the hull will need to be turned upside-down to drill several of the bolt holes more easily - it can be done the right way up, but it's a lot more difficult.
 
  Danny

Hi Nils,
 
I'm glad you have found my build log useful in your construction of Pegasus. Feel free to ask me for any future advice - happy to help out . I've had a look at your build - a very interesting way you are building her. It's a little bit like the way I built a kit of the Bounty with the more open framing to give a better view of the insides - not "historically accurate" as you mention, but a lot more visible.
 
I too got my inspiration for ship modelling when i first saw a couple of brilliant examples years ago and thought I'd love to build something like that one day - still doing it .
 
Hi Toni,
 
Good to see you back on my build log . "Lead time" for the gun barrels was about 3 months - at one stage I thought they would NEVER get here   .
 
  Danny

That's looking much better Sjors.
 
One tip you might like to try that will help to avoid the problem you just corrected, is to tie every fifth ratline row first, then go back and tie the row in the middle of these (ie the third row) then come back and tie the remainder (ie 2nd and 4th rows). It sounds complicated but is really very easy. I used different coloured highlighter pens on the card template to help keep things straight in my head. Doing it this way helps to keep an even tension on the shrouds and prevents them forming an hour-glass shape.

HI Ferit,
 
I have use a little beeswax before I put them on.
 
I have re-do a few ratlines and I hope that this is it what Danny means.
2 pictures….one a little further and one closer.
So let me know what you are thinking of it.
If you don't like it, please say so.
I don't remove them again         
 

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

Thanks very much Sjors, Brian, Pat, Frank, John, Adeline, Adam, Kevin and Patrick - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Sjors, any time you're "down under' you can certainly drop in .
 
Welcome home (again) John .
 
Adeline - you can order the barrels, but the rest is up to you .
 
Some pics of the eight completed guns with their rigging. I've also glued in the remaining deck beams :
 

 

 

 
This weekend I'm taking Vulture to a model show at Port Macquarie - I took her up there twelve months ago and have made considerable progress since then.
 
  Danny

For those who are impatient to see what I have done with the ratlines, 1 picture of my progress.
 
Notice that I started at the bottom ( normal i think  ) and how higher I go, how better it goes….
I don't know if there is a measurement of the distance between the ratlines but I take 1 cm…….
It looks good , so I keep continue with that. 
 

Well time for a little update, it's been awhile since I've posted here, due partly to my procrastination and partly because I can't see to well    , ........ anyhow I could get thru the anchors with out too much of a problem....... so here they are....... does anyone out there know if the anchor rings are supposed to have rope raped around them??... if so what's the best way to do them. Thanks
Frank

Trucks
 
I gave a bit of thought on the easiest way to make the Trucks (wheels) without resorting to using dowel - the grain would run the wrong way, although at this scale it would be difficult to pick the difference.
 
The Trucks are 4" thick, the Hind Trucks are 10.5" in diameter and the Fore Trucks are 12" diameter. On larger guns they were made from four pieces of timber with the grain running crosswise to each other and bolted together, but a 6-pounder's trucks were made from one solid piece.
 
I started off by cutting a strip of timber a little wider than the required diameter. I set up a simple stopper jig on my mill vice by CA'ing a couple of pieces of scrap to the top and drilling the 2mm centre hole. Then I cut the piece off square on the table saw.
 

 
To hold the piece into the lathe for turning the outside diameter I used a spare mandrel from my Dremel accessories. The screw was only 1.7mm, so I turned up a small brass sleeve to give a snug fit to the hole. When tightened it held the piece of timber beautifully.
 

 

 

 
I found it difficult to remove the truck from the mandrel, so I drilled a slightly smaller hole than the truck in a piece of scrap. By placing the piece over the hole I could easily remove it by pushing it into the hole :
 

 
There was a burr on one side of each piece after turning it, so to hold the rather awkward round piece without damaging it while sanding I drilled another hole in my piece of scrap which was slightly larger than the diameter of the truck and a bit less than it's thickness. The piece protrudes slightly from this hole, and a couple of wipes with a sanding stick soon removes the burr :
 

 

 

 
A view of the progress so far. The carriage sits on top of a 5 cent piece :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you Tony, Brian, Toni, Grant and Alistair.
 
Brian, the stain was spirit based Wattyl. I've thinned it down even more on the rest of the breech ropes (about 60% turps). The first one can go right down the back under the quarterdeck.
 
Hi Alistair, good to see you back again. Enjoy the ride .
 
Here's a couple of pics of a completed gun. I'm going to show them all as "run out" except for Number 3 which will be at full recoil with a train tackle :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Tony, Brian, Toni, Grant and Alistair.
 
Brian, the stain was spirit based Wattyl. I've thinned it down even more on the rest of the breech ropes (about 60% turps). The first one can go right down the back under the quarterdeck.
 
Hi Alistair, good to see you back again. Enjoy the ride .
 
Here's a couple of pics of a completed gun. I'm going to show them all as "run out" except for Number 3 which will be at full recoil with a train tackle :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hooked Planks
 
Some Hooked Planks were required in the bow and stern where the hull narrows significantly. This avoids a weak sharp point which cannot be nailed properly :
 
 

 

 

 

Clamps and Planking Pins
 
I made 16 clamps of this type. They are used primarily for clamping Planking where the clamp can fit between two Frames :
 

 
These Clamps are very useful inside a Hull, mostly used for Planking again. I made 12 of them also :
 

 
The (6) Parallel Clamps hold pieces together without pulling them out of line like normal Spring Clamps tend to do :
 

 
An overview of the first batch of Clamps I made - I added some more of each type after this pic :
 

 
One day soon I'll post a "How To" make the various Clamps in the Modelling Tools Forum.
 
I also made 12 Planking Pins. These use a 0.5mm pin, which is the size of most of the Treenails used on the model. They come in handy where I need to use a Pin directly through a Plank etc :